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I had a parts list together for disconnects but haven’t gotten around to it.
...but it's a Subaru Outback?! Build thread.
- Thread starter Wawa Skittletits
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I had a parts list together for disconnects but haven’t gotten around to it.
Thanks
Tire size might be a little to big for the 2011 Forester, too small of a wheel well.
I might just try some new mounts on ours just to see if it helps.
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I’m sure I’ll be commenting about the tires but I’m a fan so far.
Here’s my tip for the insert. Put a bottle jack under the center trans mount bolt, jack it up, grease the insert, and push it in from the front. 10 minutes. Don’t bother with the instructions that come with it.
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Interesting. I got one of the "loaded" versions that he's now making that should be an easier fit, I think (no need to squeeze in with a vise if you pull the trans mount out). I need to get under there and see if my skid plate is in the way...if not, 10 minutes sounds easy enough. Just need to snag a bottle jack first, I should have one anyway. :)
Can confirm Primitive skid plates are not in the way. Even with taking our the trans mount it's a pretty easy job. The worst part is that it took me a few minutes to remember how to slide the exhaust heat shield back into place.
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Expo pressure continues to pay dividends.. had a nice productive morning after getting home from work and the kids still slept. This is my custom setup for my iPad and InReach.
It’s a mixture of Joy Factory, RAM, and 67 Designs parts and it’s centered on a custom mount where the cell phone/change pocket used to be.
I’m in the testing phase but it’s almost perfectly flush and as long as it works out I’ll end up painting/wrapping that aluminum. It’s already massively more stable than the dash mount or the cup holder setup. The dash mount didn’t go to waste though because I tied it in via a stabilizing arm.
I carry a lot of extra items behind the rear seats and I’ve wanted to address the safety factor for a long time. That said there’s nothing custom about this Travall cargo/pet barrier. I’ve been going back and forth between this and a Raingler net but decided on this. Visibility and knowing that I can leave it up and still sleep in the car in a pinch if I wanted to swayed me towards the Travall barrier.
I still have other things to install but time is growing short. I can’t wait to pack and leave for Expo!
It’s a mixture of Joy Factory, RAM, and 67 Designs parts and it’s centered on a custom mount where the cell phone/change pocket used to be.
I’m in the testing phase but it’s almost perfectly flush and as long as it works out I’ll end up painting/wrapping that aluminum. It’s already massively more stable than the dash mount or the cup holder setup. The dash mount didn’t go to waste though because I tied it in via a stabilizing arm.
I carry a lot of extra items behind the rear seats and I’ve wanted to address the safety factor for a long time. That said there’s nothing custom about this Travall cargo/pet barrier. I’ve been going back and forth between this and a Raingler net but decided on this. Visibility and knowing that I can leave it up and still sleep in the car in a pinch if I wanted to swayed me towards the Travall barrier.
I still have other things to install but time is growing short. I can’t wait to pack and leave for Expo!
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Thought I’d share a few of the very limited pictures I took and some that were taken by others on the way down to mudfest 2018 (aka Expo East).
We had a great time hitting the trails in George Washington and Jefferson National Forest.
The new arm configuration worked perfectly and even when the trails were at their roughest there was next to no movement.
On to the next projects...
We had a great time hitting the trails in George Washington and Jefferson National Forest.
The new arm configuration worked perfectly and even when the trails were at their roughest there was next to no movement.
On to the next projects...
w00t! Can't wait til I can finally do this.
Sweet! That was a big question of mine. It might even let me put it in sooner with my (temporarily) bum shoulder, since I won't have to take the trans plate off.
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Yeah there’s still plenty of room and I’d say that if you were up for trying you could install it one handed. I was going to mention that in the other thread but either way a large pair of channellocks can give you the last bit of push to get it to pop in if one side hangs up a bit.
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Awesome build! Can't wait to really start to dive into building my '15 Outback! Quick question for you... where did you mount the switches to run your aftermarket lighting?
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Thank you @bumpo83! The answer to your question was all the way back on page 8. Please feel free to ask any questions you have about your Outback.
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Awesome! I must of scrolled past that when I initally was looking at this post.... I do have another question in regards to the multi link spacers. I have a 2" Ready Lift SST kit for my '15 but nowhere on the Ready Lift site do they mention the need to run multi link spacers. They say that the lift keeps the geometry the same as factory with the way it was designed. Is that really the case or do you think I should run the spacers with that kit?
Ready Lift kits are a point of contention in the subie community right now. It is a cheaper kit for sure, but there is a reason why they include it in all others 2" kits. The caster is already kind bad on the OB's, so you'll more than likely run into rubbing issues with oversized tires or being loaded. Not sure how they can make that claim of the geometry bring the same. My 2 cents fwiw.
OP has been in the game longer than most of us 5th Gen Outbacks and is more articulate than me so I'm curious about his take.
OP has been in the game longer than most of us 5th Gen Outbacks and is more articulate than me so I'm curious about his take.
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Yeah, I’m not to sure about the kit to be honest but I was able to pick it up cheap, like less than 50% of the cost of msrp. I knew someone that had one but never installed it before trading in their gen 5. I would love to install this kit and get new springs for even more lift and clearance. Hopefully I can get some good insight into this kit...
Can't argue with that savings! Good news is you can throw on any fabricators subframe spacers if you decide to pick some up.
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Ok here we go @bumpo83 haha... This discussion gets interesting because of the verbiage used by both the manufacturer and consumers. The following has been muddied by myths, old/irrelevant information, plain old incompetence, etc..
Here is the purpose of sub frame spacers. Unlike older Subaru’s our rear sub frame incorporates 100% of the suspension components. That includes the short trailing arms so when you lift the car the rear wheels get pulled forward. Sub frame spacers simply ‘correct’ that. In older Subaru’s you could space the trailing arm mount alone to achieve the same thing which in my eyes is much better. Functionally sub frame spacer completely rob the clearance you would have gained. Aesthetically the car appears 2” taller. Some will also claim that they save wear/tear on the rear CV’s but they’re completely fine due to the length of the axles and the resulting angle. The fronts are under significantly more stress. So the bottom line is do you need sub frame spacers? Absolutely not. If you want to run 245/65 17’s it’s going to be tight out back without them and I’m sure it’s one of the reasons Ready Lift only did 1.5” lift in the back.
Also I think that when they claim their lift retains factory caster/camber they were only referring to the front and the fact that there is no need for additional cam bolts or adjustable arms front or back. This isn't surprising since things don’t really start changing until you go above 2”.
Here are a couple more POI’s that Ready Lift and many others confuse...
Lifting doesn’t help fit larger tires on this car. The largest tires that fit at stock height are still the largest tires that fit at 1”, 2”, or 3.25” where my front sits.
Sway bar endlinks for our car would need to be SHORTER in the front and longer in the back to correct the angle of forces acting on them after a lift. It’s 1:1 (lift:length) up front and 1:0.5 in the back.
Here is the purpose of sub frame spacers. Unlike older Subaru’s our rear sub frame incorporates 100% of the suspension components. That includes the short trailing arms so when you lift the car the rear wheels get pulled forward. Sub frame spacers simply ‘correct’ that. In older Subaru’s you could space the trailing arm mount alone to achieve the same thing which in my eyes is much better. Functionally sub frame spacer completely rob the clearance you would have gained. Aesthetically the car appears 2” taller. Some will also claim that they save wear/tear on the rear CV’s but they’re completely fine due to the length of the axles and the resulting angle. The fronts are under significantly more stress. So the bottom line is do you need sub frame spacers? Absolutely not. If you want to run 245/65 17’s it’s going to be tight out back without them and I’m sure it’s one of the reasons Ready Lift only did 1.5” lift in the back.
Also I think that when they claim their lift retains factory caster/camber they were only referring to the front and the fact that there is no need for additional cam bolts or adjustable arms front or back. This isn't surprising since things don’t really start changing until you go above 2”.
Here are a couple more POI’s that Ready Lift and many others confuse...
Lifting doesn’t help fit larger tires on this car. The largest tires that fit at stock height are still the largest tires that fit at 1”, 2”, or 3.25” where my front sits.
Sway bar endlinks for our car would need to be SHORTER in the front and longer in the back to correct the angle of forces acting on them after a lift. It’s 1:1 (lift:length) up front and 1:0.5 in the back.
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Awesome info, thanks! So what would I need to do if I was planning on running the Ready Lift kit and new springs front and back? Something similar to your setup. I love the way the Outbacks look with that extra bit of lift.
