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2017 F150 Build suggestions?
- Thread starter Overland USA
- Start date
Enthusiast III
I have the Leitner rack also. I originally wanted a lower rack thinking I wanted to keep the RTT low but then realized I wouldn't be able to fit as much gear in the back and have worse access. Second, mounting an awning that low was an issue. I could still mount it but have much less headroom. Third, I discovered that my rack once assembled, could be dismounted in 3 pieces in less then 15 minutes and would only take me about 20 minutes to reinstall. So I just put it on for trips and my truck doesn't have to look like a contractor or landscaper.
Member III
I agree with TDGarage on the awning thing, awnings are a great way to increase your usable shade and rain cover area around the rig. We currently have a 6" lift on our F250 with 33s, may change once we get the front 4x4 axle installed and get out using it.
Hi Alex,
I'm new here, but not to overlanding and wheeling. I just picked up a 2018 f150 3.5L so I'm right there with you in what I'm looking to do. I would say that if you want to keep your fuel mileage reasonable (as we all try to do), you'll want to do the following.
1. Don't go over 33" tires. I wheeled a 4Runner and Tacoma with 32" tires and I wheeled them harder than I plan on wheeling this truck. I never got stuck, and this was at offroad parks that have harder obstacles than real overlanding. Knowing your limits, having friends with you (important), and knowing your vehicle is more useful than just big ol tires. PLUS, those big tires will need a speedo re calibration, and you'll certainly lose a good deal of MPGs.
My Point: Good lines, friends for recovery, and smart driving usually overcomes humongous tires.
2. Lifts, really...lift as much as you need, nothing more. I think you'll do fine to just put a 1.5" front lift via a Bilstein shock, while replacing your rear shocks with Biltsteins and keeping the lift in the rear as is. For me, I actually am not lifting at all, in fact...I removed the 1.25" lift block in the rear of my 4x4 to give me a more leveled look. However, that's because I'm sticking to stock tires for now. I kept the blocks, and I'll pop them back in, likely with the Bilstein 5100's, or maybe the Fox 2.0 shocks if I want the fancier setup. Either way, 1.5" of lift front only lift will clear the 33's in the front and rear no problem.
My Point: Lifts only provide breakover-approach-departure. You rarely need that overlanding. Use as little as needed to fit your tires.
3. Tire selection. The Hankook Dynapro ATM tires that comes with the FX4 package don't exactly look mean, but will actually do pretty well. I ran into a similar issue with my 4Runner. The tires looked boring and aggressive, but they continued to annoy me by performing well. I upgraded them to a Falken Wildpeak AT3/W and they looked MUCH more menancing, and they perform GREAT, but they cost me 2MPG. That's sticking with a 32" tire..but they were E Load.
My Point: Unsprung weight KILLs MPG and power. Opt for light tires that provide protection you want and tread you need to accomplish goals. This one item will make or break the look of your vehicle, more than any one thing...but also cost you the most in driveability and MPG.
Lift Choices:
Spacer for Front (cheap...that's about it)
Bilstein 5100's (value, it's what I'd do)
Fox 2.0 (high quality, but coming in at 3x the price of the Billies)
Tires: (Keep it around 33" if you can, 35's if you're going for the look and more serious wheeling).
BFG KO2's (always popular, opt for load range C)
Falken Wildpeak AT3/3 (opt for SL, they are really sturdy sidewalls, comparable to most load C's - watch the weight, these get heavy fast)
Hankook Dynapro (Great lightweight tire for light wheeling and offroading - great MPGs - very quiet - reasonably inexpensive)
Nitto Ridge Grappler (MEAN looking - Load C, but are still heavy - not quite a mud tire but pretty dang good - fairly quite on highway - COSTLY)
This is a terrible photo of what I built this weekend.
I found a YouTube video about it and bought the materials from Home Depot. It's using Grade 8 Bolts and Superstruts. To give it about 4" of lift from the bed, I bought some flat bar stock from Tractor supply and welded to superstrut right angle pieces. From there, it made footpads. I bolted them to the Superstruts and just used some cutoff pieces to tie the two bars together for racking strength.
Should be plenty strong. The C-channel and holes give you room to add attachments. I painted it black to just look nicer.
Bought some camper shell universal clamps to hold it down.
Cost around $120 including bolts and paint and clamps.
I found a YouTube video about it and bought the materials from Home Depot. It's using Grade 8 Bolts and Superstruts. To give it about 4" of lift from the bed, I bought some flat bar stock from Tractor supply and welded to superstrut right angle pieces. From there, it made footpads. I bolted them to the Superstruts and just used some cutoff pieces to tie the two bars together for racking strength.
Should be plenty strong. The C-channel and holes give you room to add attachments. I painted it black to just look nicer.
Bought some camper shell universal clamps to hold it down.
Cost around $120 including bolts and paint and clamps.
Last edited:
Enthusiast III
A few pics of my 2012 F150 Ecoboost, with FrontRunner rack and Decked drawer system. My bed space is just enough to get storage containers underneath while being totally safe when the bed is locked. It's virtually impossible to get into those storage bins. Just an FYI for y'all that are building out your beds.
Attachments
@F150Fanatic Hey man couple things.
1. Love the Decked system. A friend won one, and we put it in. It's WELL Built and the slides are super strong.
2. Do you have a lift on your truck or just stock height?
3. Could you share your:
a. Tire Choice and Size
b. Engine and estimated MPG when travelling
c. Approximate weight of all your gear
Trying to get an idea of cruising range and carrying capacity. I came from a lifted vehicle but would prefer to keep things stock for ride comfort while on long trips. Not planning to rock crawl, just explore.
1. Love the Decked system. A friend won one, and we put it in. It's WELL Built and the slides are super strong.
2. Do you have a lift on your truck or just stock height?
3. Could you share your:
a. Tire Choice and Size
b. Engine and estimated MPG when travelling
c. Approximate weight of all your gear
Trying to get an idea of cruising range and carrying capacity. I came from a lifted vehicle but would prefer to keep things stock for ride comfort while on long trips. Not planning to rock crawl, just explore.
Enthusiast III
Hey Lee! Glad to help, and good timing since I just finished a trip from Nashville to Moab and was keeping track of all that. I can tell you I was super impressed with the capabilities of the F150. It climbed like a champ in 4Low up some pretty serious Utah mountains in Canyonlands - never slipped or slid, even fully loaded. Answers to your questions:
2. No lift, everything stock, and I like it that way since any lift would keep me from getting in my garage :-) The only thing I am seriously considering is upgrading my front coil overs and rear shocks. Planning on several trips out west and the rocky trails are pretty jarring. Would like a smoother ride.
3a. I've got stock 18" steel wheels with BF Goodrich T/A KO2 tires, which I absolutely love! Great on the road and the trail, without much noise. And, I inflate them to 40psi while on the road for better mileage.
3b. I've got the 3.5L Ecoboost engine and averaged about 17 mpg fully loaded (give or take 1 mpg depending on how fast I was going).
3c. This is a hard one, but my best guess would be around 400 to 450 lbs of gear, and that includes a 17 gallon water tank I put in the bed, attached to a TrailKitchens sink/filter/pump. The tent and rack are at least 250 lbs combined. That might be a bit underestimated, but not too far off.
Helpful?
Enthusiast III
It screws in to a rail system which, in turn, screws in to the sides of the bed rail. Once the rails are in place, it’s pretty simple to take the rack on and off.
Which rail system do you use on your truck?
Did you have any issues with approach and departure angles in Moab? Just a little rubbing is fine.
Do you have running boards, rock sliders, or bare sides?
Thanks for your feedback!
Enthusiast III
Hey Lee! Sorry for the delayed response. The rail system comes with the Front Runner rack (as I remember). Nothing fancy, but it works. I have factory running boards, but on the White Rim Trail I did bottom out twice, the last time bent my passenger board just a little bit. As my daily driver, I like/need the running boards - not sure I'd get rockers. As to clearance in Moab, the truck fit fine on 98% of the trails. Did pull the mirrors back a few times just in case. And did have to put it in reverse a few times for a 3-point turn on some of the switchbacks - I was just too long for the turn. A little scary, but no problem. Front to back the approach and departure angles were piece of cake. Didn't rub at all.
Trail Blazer III
I’ve done a lot with my 2015 f150. Here’s my build thread: https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/threads/2015-overland-sar-f150.9941/
Just about the only thing I’m not happy with is the roof rack. I’ll likely be moving to a front runner in the future.
Just about the only thing I’m not happy with is the roof rack. I’ll likely be moving to a front runner in the future.
Traveler I
Nice! I actually built a bed slide for my f150 using superstrut as the sliders, works great!
Wadz
Rank 0
Traveler I
Just posted Part 2 and 3 of the build. Lift, Wheels, tires, Armour, WInch, Lights etc
Contributor I
What does your F-150 look like now? I am early on in my build and just looking for ideas.
Contributor II
What roof rack is that?
