What Did You Do With Your Rig Today?

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eagle_A40

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Michael
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Didn't do anything today with my rig(yet), but more items arrive today for the M226(DANA 44) rear axle housing.

Two axle shaft seals, pinion nut, pinion crush sleeve and pinion shaft seal. The axle shaft bearings and locking collars arrived yesterday.
Once I get a chance, I can begin assembly. animated-smileys-dancing-002.gif

IMG_3578.jpg
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Mimbres, NM, USA
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Jim
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covey sr
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Didn't do anything today with my rig(yet), but more items arrive today for the M226(DANA 44) rear axle housing.

Two axle shaft seals, pinion nut, pinion crush sleeve and pinion shaft seal. The axle shaft bearings and locking collars arrived yesterday.
Once I get a chance, I can begin assembly. View attachment 129805

View attachment 129804
Go to work slacker ! LOL
 
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JoelIII

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Camp Lejeune, NC
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Joel
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Not quite today, but earlier this week just haven't had time to post until now. Replaced all ball joints, tie rods, and did a little bit of cleaning. The upper ball joints had to be pressed in, I rented a kit from the local auto store that all the forums and online videos said to use... either this kit had different adapters or a lot of people are doing this a funky way! As soon as I'd start applying torque two of the adapters would just spin right off and it started making a groove around the ball joints that I didn't like so I took to a local shop and had them pressed in. After all was said and done I took to a different shop and one I haven't used before for the final alignment (I got it as close as I could), shop tells me after 30 minutes of work they can't complete the full alignment due to my cam bolts being rusted. I told them I had just spent a day under the truck and their was no surface rust on them so how bad are they really? Guy told me it was on the inside where you don't see them when installed lol. I told him you shouldn't be pulling them out to do the alignment, just loosen and turn to adjust, he said he'd do what he could but its on me if they break. I told him just stop where they are at and pull my truck out... so lesson learned to never use Mr. Tire in Jacksonville NC cause they will rip you off even for a simple alignment job. Aside from that the truck seems to handle a lot better, a little stiff at the moment but I imagine that's just being used to some worn out parts.
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HazMatt79

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Houston County, TX, USA
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Not quite today, but earlier this week just haven't had time to post until now. Replaced all ball joints, tie rods, and did a little bit of cleaning. The upper ball joints had to be pressed in, I rented a kit from the local auto store that all the forums and online videos said to use... either this kit had different adapters or a lot of people are doing this a funky way! As soon as I'd start applying torque two of the adapters would just spin right off and it started making a groove around the ball joints that I didn't like so I took to a local shop and had them pressed in. After all was said and done I took to a different shop and one I haven't used before for the final alignment (I got it as close as I could), shop tells me after 30 minutes of work they can't complete the full alignment due to my cam bolts being rusted. I told them I had just spent a day under the truck and their was no surface rust on them so how bad are they really? Guy told me it was on the inside where you don't see them when installed lol. I told him you shouldn't be pulling them out to do the alignment, just loosen and turn to adjust, he said he'd do what he could but its on me if they break. I told him just stop where they are at and pull my truck out... so lesson learned to never use Mr. Tire in Jacksonville NC cause they will rip you off even for a simple alignment job. Aside from that the truck seems to handle a lot better, a little stiff at the moment but I imagine that's just being used to some worn out parts.
Have you seen the JBAOffroad UCAs? I installed them on my Tundra and they are greaseable. Plus, the ball joint is a commonly found one at parts stores. No pressing needed. Even better price on the Taco version that what I paid for the Tundra. JBA Stock Replacement Upper A-arms for Toyota Tacoma
 

Booker

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509
Valrico FL
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15981

Not quite today, but earlier this week just haven't had time to post until now. Replaced all ball joints, tie rods, and did a little bit of cleaning. The upper ball joints had to be pressed in, I rented a kit from the local auto store that all the forums and online videos said to use... either this kit had different adapters or a lot of people are doing this a funky way! As soon as I'd start applying torque two of the adapters would just spin right off and it started making a groove around the ball joints that I didn't like so I took to a local shop and had them pressed in. After all was said and done I took to a different shop and one I haven't used before for the final alignment (I got it as close as I could), shop tells me after 30 minutes of work they can't complete the full alignment due to my cam bolts being rusted. I told them I had just spent a day under the truck and their was no surface rust on them so how bad are they really? Guy told me it was on the inside where you don't see them when installed lol. I told him you shouldn't be pulling them out to do the alignment, just loosen and turn to adjust, he said he'd do what he could but its on me if they break. I told him just stop where they are at and pull my truck out... so lesson learned to never use Mr. Tire in Jacksonville NC cause they will rip you off even for a simple alignment job. Aside from that the truck seems to handle a lot better, a little stiff at the moment but I imagine that's just being used to some worn out parts.
View attachment 129823View attachment 129821View attachment 129822
Just my opinion here, but I don't think the shop was trying to rip you off. I have a 1st gen Tacoma also and did all the same work about 2 months ago. I took it to a trusted shop for the alignment and was told the same thing. They could only set the toe because they couldn't get the cam bolts to loosen up.
 

JoelIII

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Just my opinion here, but I don't think the shop was trying to rip you off. I have a 1st gen Tacoma also and did all the same work about 2 months ago. I took it to a trusted shop for the alignment and was told the same thing. They could only set the toe because they couldn't get the cam bolts to loosen up.
Yeah they only did toe for me as well. He didn't say they were seized, said they were rusted and that he could try to turn them but he couldn't guarantee they wouldn't break and wasn't sure if he could get replacement bolts that day. I inquired as to the rust issue as I mentioned on original post because I didn't see how that would affect anything and again, I had already looked over that area before and after the experience and no traces of rust as far as you can see without taking them out, and he kept saying yup they are rusted. This was a shop I haven't been to before only because the shop I trust didn't have any appointments at that time and I needed it done asap.

What I wonder about your truck, is if they tried to apply a little heat to loosen up your cam bolts. I've seen on forums and videos where the original bolts being so old and stressed over time that they warp and cannot be turned, not that they are seized, they just will only adjust so much because of being off center. Im betting that was probably the case with your tacoma unless yours were rusted into place.
 

JoelIII

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Camp Lejeune, NC
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Joel
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Have you seen the JBAOffroad UCAs? I installed them on my Tundra and they are greaseable. Plus, the ball joint is a commonly found one at parts stores. No pressing needed. Even better price on the Taco version that what I paid for the Tundra. JBA Stock Replacement Upper A-arms for Toyota Tacoma
Yeah I've checked those out, one of these years I'll do a small lift set up and most likely go with those UCA's being as they'er among the cheaper set ups.
 

Booker

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Valrico FL
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Yeah they only did toe for me as well. He didn't say they were seized, said they were rusted and that he could try to turn them but he couldn't guarantee they wouldn't break and wasn't sure if he could get replacement bolts that day. I inquired as to the rust issue as I mentioned on original post because I didn't see how that would affect anything and again, I had already looked over that area before and after the experience and no traces of rust as far as you can see without taking them out, and he kept saying yup they are rusted. This was a shop I haven't been to before only because the shop I trust didn't have any appointments at that time and I needed it done asap.

What I wonder about your truck, is if they tried to apply a little heat to loosen up your cam bolts. I've seen on forums and videos where the original bolts being so old and stressed over time that they warp and cannot be turned, not that they are seized, they just will only adjust so much because of being off center. Im betting that was probably the case with your tacoma unless yours were rusted into place.
That's a plausible possibility. There's no rust on the visible parts of the bolts, but based on my recent (at the time) experience removing the driver side front leaf spring bolt, I just assumed they were rust welded inside the LCA bushings and I excepted there reason. The leaf spring bolt showed no visible rust either, but not even an air hammer would budge that bolt. I ended up having to cut both ends of it off to get the leaf spring out.
 

JoelIII

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Joel
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That's a plausible possibility. There's no rust on the visible parts of the bolts, but based on my recent (at the time) experience removing the driver side front leaf spring bolt, I just assumed they were rust welded inside the LCA bushings and I excepted there reason. The leaf spring bolt showed no visible rust either, but not even an air hammer would budge that bolt. I ended up having to cut both ends of it off to get the leaf spring out.
Yeah that sucks! I'm already planning to replace the cam bolts and bushings in the next year or so when I replace the steering rack. I've seen a few videos already where they have to cut the control arm bolts off cause they are warped to much to pull out. Same with the leaf spring bolts.
 

kkriewald

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Every time out was, I admit, a bit of an exaggeration. At the time I was running 255/85/16s with a 2” OME suspension. Every 50,000 miles I could count on replacing the front lower control arm bushings and the front axle universals. Every 70-75 thousand miles the rest of the suspension bushings. Alignment? At least every 10,000 miles, and I wasn’t beating on it.. I’d wager that your TJ needs an alignment right now. One hard bump or pothole on the highway is all it takes.
I figured it was a little exaggeration, lol. Drove it today, checked it just because of your post. She's good. 3" suspension, 2" body, 35/12.50/15s on 3.5" back spaced steel rock wheels. Also check for bending regularly. She's getting a little long in the tooth, and will be getting a full front rebuild soon. Currently building a rear axle to swap in (9inch Ford).
 
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kkriewald

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Beginning to understand what you both are talking about. I'm going to stay as simple as my pea brain will accept. Sounds like what you added to your rig at least gives you most of what you wanted.
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Just a long shot guess but I wonder if the TR ends wear more on one side than the other because of the diff location. If the diff is on the driver side it wears on the left and visaversa ? My Old 67 Bronco wore out free wheeling hubs and bearing like crazy but never had a TR end failure or wheel hub bearing failures.
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Good thought, but I have both right and left side drop axles (newer Jeeps, older Jeeps, Chevys, ford's.). I've always assumed it was because the right side turns tighter on the street all of the time as compared to left hand turns. Just a theory.
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Mimbres, NM, USA
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Jim
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covey sr
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I wish I could.
I'm taking care of my 4-1/2 year old granddaughter. She gets into everything.
Yeah, just like my sons 6 month Doberman pitcher. I'm going nuts trying to keep that dog out of every thing. She's so big now she's taking things off the kitchen counters wit ease. At least your GD understands English and probably understands a pat on the butt.
ENJOY they don't stay young long and the trouble they get in as teenagers will make you think they are angels now. I know you love her because you mention her a lot. You will be her daddy in her eyes as she grows older. You will be the one she trusts the most. God bless the children in these worrisome days of political turmoil. :- (
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,827
Mimbres, NM, USA
First Name
Jim
Last Name
covey sr
Member #

16986

Ham/GMRS Callsign
none - BREAKER BREAKER HAND HELD CB AND WALKIE TALKIE
Not quite today, but earlier this week just haven't had time to post until now. Replaced all ball joints, tie rods, and did a little bit of cleaning. The upper ball joints had to be pressed in, I rented a kit from the local auto store that all the forums and online videos said to use... either this kit had different adapters or a lot of people are doing this a funky way! As soon as I'd start applying torque two of the adapters would just spin right off and it started making a groove around the ball joints that I didn't like so I took to a local shop and had them pressed in. After all was said and done I took to a different shop and one I haven't used before for the final alignment (I got it as close as I could), shop tells me after 30 minutes of work they can't complete the full alignment due to my cam bolts being rusted. I told them I had just spent a day under the truck and their was no surface rust on them so how bad are they really? Guy told me it was on the inside where you don't see them when installed lol. I told him you shouldn't be pulling them out to do the alignment, just loosen and turn to adjust, he said he'd do what he could but its on me if they break. I told him just stop where they are at and pull my truck out... so lesson learned to never use Mr. Tire in Jacksonville NC cause they will rip you off even for a simple alignment job. Aside from that the truck seems to handle a lot better, a little stiff at the moment but I imagine that's just being used to some worn out parts.
View attachment 129823View attachment 129821View attachment 129822
Looking good !
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

2,827
Mimbres, NM, USA
First Name
Jim
Last Name
covey sr
Member #

16986

Ham/GMRS Callsign
none - BREAKER BREAKER HAND HELD CB AND WALKIE TALKIE
After procrastinating for a couple weeks, I finally install a relay to operate the accessory wiring panel. Then I ran wiring to the bumper LED light bar.
I also replaced the video cable for the front trail camera. The original cable was defective.
Uh huaaa, gotcha bro.
 
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