Member III
If some entrepreneur on here wants to fab some parts for less than what these big dogs are charging - I fully endorse that and I am willing to pay! I'm not confident in my welding skills.
Subaru Owners Registry
- Thread starter Wawa Skittletits
- Start date
An Amico 200 DC TIG/stick welder. They can be had on Amazon.com and Home Depot online as well. I think Home Depot is actually a bit less $$$ now.
Enthusiast III
So I got a question about getting my 2012 Outback more water tight. What's needed to be able to safely drive through slightly deep (for this thing) water? Rear Diff breather?
Member III
I know there is a filter somewhere above the rear diff that can set off all the warning lights on the car's computer that could be problematic. I found that out the hard way - working my way through deep water for a long way on flooded streets. However, most of the time on the trails I am on, I am not in deep enough water long enough to adversely really effect anything.Love to hear feedback as I have same question about my 2019
I was looking at this ARB breather system;
and this LP Adventure Canister bypass kit;
LP Aventure - Canister filter bypass
Your Outback need this kit if you want to go in the water with your subaru. This kit bypass the oem canister filter. The oem one is located under the car near the rear subframe (DRIVER SIDE)...and taking water easily. With this kit, the new filter is well hidden and located on top of the inner...lpaventure.com
Expedition Master I
- 5,079
- First Name
- Drew
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- Hawley
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1537
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- USN veteran
I don’t know for certain with the 4th gen EVAP canister but the 5th gen vents right above the rear diff while the canister is in the driver rear wheel well. I’m pretty sure the whole canister for the 4th gen is near the diff. A rerouted vent line should help.
The rear differential has a push in type vent. To do it properly you’d have to tap the existing hole to run a vent line elsewhere. My 5th gen has been in a lot of water and I’ve replaced the rear diff gear oil more frequently because of this. There’s never been an indication of water contamination in the oil.
The front diff and transmission breathers are in a good place under the throttle body.
The rear differential has a push in type vent. To do it properly you’d have to tap the existing hole to run a vent line elsewhere. My 5th gen has been in a lot of water and I’ve replaced the rear diff gear oil more frequently because of this. There’s never been an indication of water contamination in the oil.
The front diff and transmission breathers are in a good place under the throttle body.
I too have been wondering about this, but for a Forester XT (2017). Are the diff breathers located in the same spot on mine, as on the Outback?
Enthusiast III
Based on this video that doesn't seem really worth it vs. putting the parts together yourself.Love to hear feedback as I have same question about my 2019
I was looking at this ARB breather system;
and this LP Adventure Canister bypass kit;
LP Aventure - Canister filter bypass
Your Outback need this kit if you want to go in the water with your subaru. This kit bypass the oem canister filter. The oem one is located under the car near the rear subframe (DRIVER SIDE)...and taking water easily. With this kit, the new filter is well hidden and located on top of the inner...
Enthusiast III
Got this guy installed today, had to make up some brackets cause the ones it came with were just a little too tall and wide cause at 42" the light just barely fits.
Any suggestions on how to make entry with the wire?
Any suggestions on how to make entry with the wire?
Contributor II
2004 Forester and 2012 Impreza. The Forester is out of commission for the time being. I hope to make some modifications to the Impreza and use it for some overland trips, obviously mostly road based, but overlanding none the less.Looking to add fog lights and a roof rack first to the Impreza and obtain a ham radio.
Attachments
Lookin' good! I routed mine down from the front lights - similar location to this setup - along the inside of the roof rack bars to the back of my Forester, and in through the tail gate. I put a hole in the rubber grommet that the tail gate's own wires run though, then sealed it with "spray-on electrical tape". Plastidip would do too.
Enthusiast III
Member III
For my CB antenna, because it's on the front of the roof, I came down in the roof rail gutter, then in a gutter that runs down the side of my windshield (I can't tell from the picture if your windshield has the same), then into the engine bay, then through the electrical grommet in the firewall. For my Ham antenna, which is mounted on my back gate, I ran the cable above the roof liner, then behind the plastic piece covering the pillar between the front and rear passenger seats, to come out under the front passenger seat (where my base unit is located).
Finished the structural bits and the latch on my bumper build:
Very happy with how the stainless sill plates turned out. All cut, ground, and polished with an angle grinder and a handheld belt sander in one afternoon!
All that's left now is paint, a few weld-nuts for the jerry can holder and spare tire carrier, and to make some wear surfaces for the swing-out. I'm thinking of using Kydex for that.
Very happy with how the stainless sill plates turned out. All cut, ground, and polished with an angle grinder and a handheld belt sander in one afternoon!
All that's left now is paint, a few weld-nuts for the jerry can holder and spare tire carrier, and to make some wear surfaces for the swing-out. I'm thinking of using Kydex for that.
Enthusiast III
Thanks for the nice words! You can find my build here. I really need to update the bumper photos, because a lot of changed or been added, but nevertheless... Subaru Forester - '18 XT
Enthusiast III
Well this is disappointing a little bit. As I make attempts to waterproof my 2012 Outback I see it has rear vents on both sides which I assume are to aid in closing the doors. Do you think it's worth it to take off the panels, remove the vents and seal them up from the outside?
Option B would be to glue them from the inside so they could never be stuck in the open position.
Thoughts?
Option B would be to glue them from the inside so they could never be stuck in the open position.
Thoughts?
I can say from experience, having forded this...
...that even when the rear-driverside vents went underwater each time I exited a puddle or hit a rut within them, I did not take any water in. My SJ Forester has vents in the same location behind the rear wheelwells. As long as you're moving, you shouldn't be bringing anything in. I'd assume that, because of how the vents are designed to open outwards, a little bit of water splashing against them would force them to seal. That said; always better safe them sorry. So maybe work on waterproofing more critical and vulnerable parts of the vehicle before you worry about this.
...that even when the rear-driverside vents went underwater each time I exited a puddle or hit a rut within them, I did not take any water in. My SJ Forester has vents in the same location behind the rear wheelwells. As long as you're moving, you shouldn't be bringing anything in. I'd assume that, because of how the vents are designed to open outwards, a little bit of water splashing against them would force them to seal. That said; always better safe them sorry. So maybe work on waterproofing more critical and vulnerable parts of the vehicle before you worry about this.
Enthusiast III
