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Sasquatch SC

Rank VI
Launch Member

Member III

3,782
Jefferson County, Colorado, United States
First Name
Trey
Last Name
Hayes
Member #

17253

To each their own but having the spare on my roof has never limited what I put up there. I don’t like departure angle robbing attachments, I prefer the versatility of ground tent camping, and although I had originally planned to go with a custom swing out in the skin of the OE bumper cover I never found the need. Some people on here may recall that I actually used CAD to plan out my basket and I creatively use all of the available space in and around my basket. By the time pulling the wheel down is a problem this Outback will be long gone.

Old pictures but it gives you an idea. Everything is securely mounted and locked. No straps or bungees.

View attachment 122559View attachment 122563
I love your basket set-up. I have a Thule Canyon XT and It was pretty much full after I throw my chainsaw box, 2 smallish size totes and my recovery boards up there. I considered going to the ubiquitous Front Runner, but the platform with the basket type rails, lights, jerry can brackets & propane bracket was around the $2k mark. If I went that route I'd also be stuck with trying to offload the Thule crossbars and the basket I already have. I recently bought the 20" extension for my basket and there is a lot more room. I still need to do some adjusting of the crossbars and where the basket attaches to them at but I'm going to be able to get a lot more space up there - I should finally have a spot for my Gazelle tent that isn't such a pain. I don't want the basket to intrude on the satellite radio antenna. I would like to find some way to mount the recovery boards (knock-off MaxTrax I bought on Amazon) on the side of the basket, but it's weird because of the way the basket flares out. I'm on the fence about an awning still.

Space in my rig is pretty tight. My dog (a 95lbs Doberman) doesn't fit in the front passenger seat. We tried it. She was uncomfortable, invaded my space, kept throwing the car into manual mode unexpectedly, hit all the buttons on the radio and climate controls, turned on the wipers, and put nose prints all over the windshield and side glass. Berkley is a great Overland dog. She's calm, doesn't mind the rough trails or long car trips, but she needs the backseat. The whole backseat. With the nice, waterproof, quilted backseat cover she can lay down and brace herself when things get rough without tearing up anything and when she needs to take a break or just get some head scratches she can just stick her head between the front seats.

What is in the box with the wingnuts?
 
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Wawa Skittletits

Local Expert East Region USA
Staff member
Launch Member
Member

Expedition Master I

5,079
Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
First Name
Drew
Last Name
Hawley
Member #

1537

Ham/GMRS Callsign
WRBZ674
Service Branch
USN veteran
I love your basket set-up. I have a Thule Canyon XT and It was pretty much full after I throw my chainsaw box, 2 smallish size totes and my recovery boards up there. I considered going to the ubiquitous Front Runner, but the platform with the basket type rails, lights, jerry can brackets & propane bracket was around the $2k mark. If I went that route I'd also be stuck with trying to offload the Thule crossbars and the basket I already have. I recently bought the 20" extension for my basket and there is a lot more room. I still need to do some adjusting of the crossbars and where the basket attaches to them at but I'm going to be able to get a lot more space up there - I should finally have a spot for my Gazelle tent that isn't such a pain. I don't want the basket to intrude on the satellite radio antenna. I would like to find some way to mount the recovery boards (knock-off MaxTrax I bought on Amazon) on the side of the basket, but it's weird because of the way the basket flares out. I'm on the fence about an awning still.

Space in my rig is pretty tight. My dog (a 95lbs Doberman) doesn't fit in the front passenger seat. We tried it. She was uncomfortable, invaded my space, kept throwing the car into manual mode unexpectedly, hit all the buttons on the radio and climate controls, turned on the wipers, and put nose prints all over the windshield and side glass. Berkley is a great Overland dog. She's calm, doesn't mind the rough trails or long car trips, but she needs the backseat. The whole backseat. With the nice, waterproof, quilted backseat cover she can lay down and brace herself when things get rough without tearing up anything and when she needs to take a break or just get some head scratches she can just stick her head between the front seats.

What is in the box with the wingnuts?
Thank you Trey! The box with wingnuts is actually Traction Jacks..


Fortunately I've only ever used them to help other people out but they work great and the fact that they fold is obviously a big plus in the storage department.

Your new extension for the Canyon will really help! When people ask me about baskets I like to point out the universal shape of the Yakima Loadwarrior/Megawarrior baskets and the easy to secure to 1' tubing. Their new Off Grid basket only has one redeeming quality and thats the ability to put the cross bars anywhere. I can't take advantage to the 2nd, further apart mounting option on the Outback because it doesn't line up with the basket. That said it's fine and I'd still never buy or recommend the Off Grid.

The Frontrunner option for the Outback is nice... if Prinsu didn't exist. The only advantage Frontrunner has is the ease of mounting. Baskets with an extension are actually longer and obviously cheaper. The Prinsu roof rack is the only way to go if you're willing to pay for it. Longer, lower, and it can't be mounted any more securely. My only regret is that I wasn't able to take advantage of an offer when they were looking for a vehicle to test fit.

 
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Jeffrey Dill

Rank VI
Launch Member

Member III

3,364
Greenville, SC, USA
First Name
Jeffrey
Last Name
Dill
Member #

15578

Ham/GMRS Callsign
W4FOZ
Thank you Trey! The box with wingnuts is actually Traction Jacks..


Fortunately I've only ever used them to help other people out but they work great and the fact that they fold is obviously a big plus in the storage department.

Your new extension for the Canyon will really help! When people ask me about baskets I like to point out the universal shape of the Yakima Loadwarrior/Megawarrior baskets and the easy to secure to 1' tubing. Their new Off Grid basket only has one redeeming quality and thats the ability to put the cross bars anywhere. I can't take advantage to the 2nd, further apart mounting option on the Outback because it doesn't line up with the basket. That said it's fine and I'd still never buy or recommend the Off Grid.

The Frontrunner option for the Outback is nice... if Prinsu didn't exist. The only advantage Frontrunner has is the ease of mounting. Baskets with an extension are actually longer and obviously cheaper. The Prinsu roof rack is the only way to go if you're willing to pay for it. Longer, lower, and it can't be mounted any more securely. My only regret is that I wasn't able to take advantage of an offer when they were looking for a vehicle to test fit.

Can definitely second the versatility/universality of the LoadWarrior/MegaWarrior. I've got a MegaWarrior on my Foz and I'm pleased with it. Would probably have normally gone for the LoadWarrior based on the width of my vehicle but found a MegaWarrior on Craigslist listed for $200 - offered him $140 and he took it. Sooo MegaWarrior it is. :laughing: $12 worth of Rust-Oleum and it looks like a brand new rack.

It was easily modified to mount my awning and it carries plenty. My only complaint about it is that it's like having a wall mounted to the top of your car. Sometimes I think I'd get better gas mileage by just wrapping up my stuff in a tarp and dragging it behind my car. :pensive:

Ultimately, I'd love to have the FrontRunner Slimline with their wind deflector that comes down flush to the roof. But I doubt I'll ever be able to justify to myself the $1,100 dollar expense over the $152 I have invested in my current solution that's working fine.
 

Thekevin

Rank IV
Launch Member

Explorer I

943
Randolph, MA, USA
First Name
Kevin
Last Name
Cosgrove
Member #

21011

Ham/GMRS Callsign
KD2GHD
First Rig Upgrade complete!
Spent a good part of Saturday installing the first rig upgrades on my 2019 Forester. after hearing some horror stories from a couple of posters about the installation of the ready-lift lifts i went in a little nervous. in the end it took a lot longer then the manual said it would but most of that time was due to not having the proper tools. 2 dead wrenches and a trip to the hardware store later i was able to complete the installation. The new 245/65/17's fit pretty well under the new lift and the whole car feels pretty great when driving. one recommendation for people installing these kinda lifts is to get a cordless impact gun. my body still aches a bit from all the bolt breaking i needed to do under the car and that was what made up a good amount of the actual install time.

Overall it was a fun way to spend a weekend and now my car is ready for more offloading!
 

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Baipin

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

Inspired by @CurrentlyRockhoundin and his pursuit to waterproof a Subie, I've got a few questions...

What would be the best way to waterproof the ECM/ECU in a SJ XT Forester?

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1572324542293.png
I was thinking that you could fit it inside a IP68 6"x6"x2" electrical box and put the cables through waterproof glands, or seal them up with silicone. Would that be an overheating issue? Alternatively, I suppose you could plastidip the terminals... :grin: is any of this really worth doing? Does anyone know if the ECM is already waterproofed?
 

Wawa Skittletits

Local Expert East Region USA
Staff member
Launch Member
Member

Expedition Master I

5,079
Wilkes-Barre, PA, USA
First Name
Drew
Last Name
Hawley
Member #

1537

Ham/GMRS Callsign
WRBZ674
Service Branch
USN veteran
Inspired by @CurrentlyRockhoundin and his pursuit to waterproof a Subie, I've got a few questions...

What would be the best way to waterproof the ECM/ECU in a SJ XT Forester?

View attachment 124466
View attachment 124467
I was thinking that you could fit it inside a IP68 6"x6"x2" electrical box and put the cables through waterproof glands, or seal them up with silicone. Would that be an overheating issue? Alternatively, I suppose you could plastidip the terminals... :grin: is any of this really worth doing? Does anyone know if the ECM is already waterproofed?
Couple things. It’s above your intake so IP ratings may be a bit much haha. Curiously enough it’s also in the engine compartment so it has to have a water resistance rating. I could never say for sure in your case but the Legacy/Outback ECM is in a small closed off compartment under the carpet in the passenger footwell so I can’t imagine it breathes well in there. Heat may not be an issue.
 
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CurrentlyRockhoundin

Rank IV
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,310
Spokane, WA
First Name
Jared
Last Name
Goguen
Member #

20084

Inspired by @CurrentlyRockhoundin and his pursuit to waterproof a Subie, I've got a few questions...

What would be the best way to waterproof the ECM/ECU in a SJ XT Forester?

View attachment 124466
View attachment 124467
I was thinking that you could fit it inside a IP68 6"x6"x2" electrical box and put the cables through waterproof glands, or seal them up with silicone. Would that be an overheating issue? Alternatively, I suppose you could plastidip the terminals... :grin: is any of this really worth doing? Does anyone know if the ECM is already waterproofed?
I would assume that it's already very water resistant. Like wawa said for the Outback the issue with the ECU being on the floor in the cabin so if you flood it your SOL.

If you want to make it bulletproof, assuming the bullets are made of water then put the ECU in a pelican case with waterproof glands.

People on www.subaruforester.org mentioned the follow for waterproofing.

-----------------------------------------------------------------

"The floor has a couple of holes in it for some reason. There are about 6 very small ones under the back seat, and a few more in various places throughout the center driveshaft tunnel. They aren't "direct" holes to the outside, but they aren't completely sealed either. So if you sit in deep water like a re-re (as I did), you will get water under the carpets. I was VERY lucky I didn't get water in/on the ECU or I would have been screwed (as the ECU sits in the passenger footwell about an inch off the actual floor.)

There is no way to make it completely "waterproof", but you can make it as water-resistant as you can.

- Silicone and fill in the holes that you can find in the floor and underneath the chassis.
- Extend the "breathers" for the front and rear diffs.
- Put an "extension" on the front diff filler neck. (I put a rubber fuel line as an extension, but I can take it off to put back in the dipstick to check levels)
- Check firewall for any holes or areas where water could possibly get in.
- Tend to all the electrical connections under the hood with dielectric grease.
- If you want to go extreme, move the ECU higher up the firewall to avoid destroying it if some water does get in the car.

Now, this snorkel is for added benefit when crossing water and such, BUT I mainly want it because of the dust. Snorkels serve two purposes, water protection and to prevent high dust inhalation. I had a brand new air filter in the car, and after only about 30 minutes of following a buddy down a very dusty road, my filter was completely packed full of dust, the MAF was covered in crap, and the intake to the turbo had a thin coating of dust as well.

The snorkel gets air from above the "dust line", and keeps the air going into your engine cleaner than if you are still sucking in a great deal of dust from behind the headlamp in the engine bay."
 
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Jeffrey Dill

Rank VI
Launch Member

Member III

3,364
Greenville, SC, USA
First Name
Jeffrey
Last Name
Dill
Member #

15578

Ham/GMRS Callsign
W4FOZ
Inspired by @CurrentlyRockhoundin and his pursuit to waterproof a Subie, I've got a few questions...

What would be the best way to waterproof the ECM/ECU in a SJ XT Forester?

View attachment 124466
View attachment 124467
I was thinking that you could fit it inside a IP68 6"x6"x2" electrical box and put the cables through waterproof glands, or seal them up with silicone. Would that be an overheating issue? Alternatively, I suppose you could plastidip the terminals... :grin: is any of this really worth doing? Does anyone know if the ECM is already waterproofed?
Personally, I would think doing anything to try to waterproof it would be unnecessary. Considering how high the ECM is in the engine bay, if you ever have water up to that level that would warrant better waterproofing, the ECM is probably the least of your concerns because you'll be floating. :laughing:
 

Baipin

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

Personally, I would think doing anything to try to waterproof it would be unnecessary. Considering how high the ECM is in the engine bay, if you ever have water up to that level that would warrant better waterproofing, the ECM is probably the least of your concerns because you'll be floating. :laughing:
You make a good point. I'd probably be looking for my window breaker if it got that high - hah!

I guess the only thing that concerns me is water intrusion from quick immersion (say, hitting a rut while fording and having water splash up onto the electrical contacts). I'll take a look and see just how waterproof they are. I covered a small part of exposed wiring leading into in the DT connectors at the back, near the backup sensors, with silicone. That's been fine so far. Long story short; they lead to a blewn fuse and some major headaches looking for what was ultimately a simple fix.
 

Jeffrey Dill

Rank VI
Launch Member

Member III

3,364
Greenville, SC, USA
First Name
Jeffrey
Last Name
Dill
Member #

15578

Ham/GMRS Callsign
W4FOZ
You make a good point. I'd probably be looking for my window breaker if it got that high - hah!

I guess the only thing that concerns me is water intrusion from quick immersion (say, hitting a rut while fording and having water splash up onto the electrical contacts). I'll take a look and see just how waterproof they are. I covered a small part of exposed wiring leading into in the DT connectors at the back, near the backup sensors, with silicone. That's been fine so far. Long story short; they lead to a blewn fuse and some major headaches looking for what was ultimately a simple fix.
Right on. As @Wawa Skittletits and @CurrentlyRockhoundin already mentioned, anything in the engine compartment should be sufficiently capable of handling a hefty water splash.
 

Baipin

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

If anyone is interested in using a come-along winch rather than a hardwired electric winch for their Subaru (or any small rig, for that matter), I just go a good deal on a Lug-All, which are considered the best alongside the Wyeth Scott winches:

1573273104883.png
IMO, come-along winches are a hidden gem. You can deadlift anything under 5000lbs safely in any direction, you can move debris from the trail in directions a vehicle never could, they don't require electricity, they're lightweight, they don't rust (cast aluminum), and the wire rope can be replaced with UHMWPE Dyneema. This one can be had on the 'Bay - I think the seller has 1 or 2 left. I got mine for $80 and they normally go for triple that. Fairly recent 2013 model, and the second-highest capacity that Lug-All makes (very hard to find used - I've been looking for over a year). The dynamometer/shock absorber thing is removeable.

Just jumped ship. Traded in my '15 Trailhawk for a '20 Outback XT Outdoor. No pics yet, will keep this thread posted.
Congrats on the new Outback! I'm excited to see how the new Subies perform in overlanding duties. They updated the X-mode to suit mud better.
 

Logan Hall

Rank II

Enthusiast III

Has anyone seen or heard of any off-road racing style builds? Fiberglass fenders, long travel kits, frame bracing and armor, etc? The “overland” builds are cool, but so is going fast.
There’s a guy on YouTube/Instagram with a Tecate Forester and another dude called @projectwagon but not much detail is offered on what’s actually done.

I love when builds go way beyond the norm like that
 
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Baipin

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

Has anyone seen or heard of any off-road racing style builds? Fiberglass fenders, long travel kits, frame bracing and armor, etc? The “overland” builds are cool, but so is going fast.
There’s a guy on YouTube/Instagram with a Tecate Forester and another dude called @projectwagon but not much detail is offered on what’s actually done.

I love when builds go way beyond the norm like that
There was some aussie who heavily modded a SH Forester; long travel suspension, lift, rear locker, center locker (might've been just a mod to have the solenoid run on demand) among other additions. I think he even managed to fit low range in there somehow. Can't remember the name of it, but it was done in a dark brown/copper and black matte wrap.
 
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Sasquatch SC

Rank VI
Launch Member

Member III

3,782
Jefferson County, Colorado, United States
First Name
Trey
Last Name
Hayes
Member #

17253

I'm looking to add some modular storage into the back of my Outback, but I don't want to lose the backseat. Basically some drawers where I can organize some gear better and still have a place for my cooler. The big thing for me though is - I can't stand anything rattling or clanking around so I want something secure (or at least sound dampened). Does anyone know of anything offered for this type of thing? I have been using a big rubber trunk thing that I put my camp kitchen stuff in and miscellaneous camp gear but it gets all mixed around. No matter how well sorted it starts, after I've had to dig into it a few times and its been bounced around on the trail it is a jumbled mess I'm having to dig through. The other downside is that it opens from the top and makes finding what I need a bit of hassle. I've seen the platforms built with the backseat removed - that isn't something I want to do. Also, I'd like to be able to remove the shelves if I need to quickly. My spare tire is now fullsize and on a Wilco, but I still store some recovery gear and tools under the trunk floorboard - ARB X-Jack, tire plug kit, recovery straps, jump box, emergency rations, etc.

Any help would be really appreciated!
 

Sasquatch SC

Rank VI
Launch Member

Member III

3,782
Jefferson County, Colorado, United States
First Name
Trey
Last Name
Hayes
Member #

17253

@Sasquatch SC Perhaps something like this combined with some of these modular crates?
I have some of the bigger modular boxes that I use in my roof basket and I have considered using some of the smaller ones, but I'd rather find some kind of all-in-one drawer system. Your fabrication is amazing - but it FARRRRRRR exceeds my skill set. I found these toolboxes online. I could set 2 of them side-by-side in the rear. They are 20.5" wide so with two of them, they'd be 41" across and the width between the wheelhousings is 42.5". I'd be able to fit all the little bits that get lost so quickly and organize it. I figure if I use some silicone spray it will keep the stuff inside from rattling around. Plus, I should still be able to fit a medium sized cooler back there between the boxes and the hatch.
Thoughts?
 

carlospalooza

Rank III
Member
Investor

Enthusiast I

874
NE Los Angeles
First Name
Carlos
Last Name
Bishop
Member #

10860

I’m sure this has come up before but can anyone recommend a shop to do an alignment after a 1” lift and new tires on a ‘14 Crosstrek in or fairly close to the Los Angeles area? May be interested in the shop actually installing the lift as well, even though it seems pretty easy. Thank in advance.