Member III
First class redo. Very practical as well. My daughter who lives in Coos Bay Or. bought an orange 1996 LRD? to day. She paid $1000 for it. I don't know what her plans are yet, but she said it was real nice and bought it on a forced sale.
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Refurbishing a cheap Disco 1
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Pathfinder I
Nice, We used to have a house in Gold Beach, OR just down the coast. Our place overlooked the mouth of the Rogue River there, it’s a beautiful chunk of the country out there.
Pathfinder I
More in common than many realize. Sure the manufacturers are different, but the solutions they used to achieve great off road mechanical drive lines in their time were very similar in execution. A friend recently mistook an 80 series front axle I had sitting on my trailer to get welded up for a spare rover axle in fact.
Pathfinder I
I got to the bottom of that. Turns out if you don’t torque the rotor bolts properly they back out, hit the stub axle bolts, and get violently ejected from the enclosed space. I’m assuming they came out while it was rolling down the road post the last owners brake job some time ago.
Member III
I understand that, I'm an auto part guru for swapping parts on vehicles. Once I had a 3/4 ton International with a Spicer rear with a 6 bolt (large pattern). Finding wheels with bolt pattern that weren't split rims was a problem. I removed the axel and went to the wrecking yard and found a For 3/4 ton or one ton pickup. I pulled the axel from it and the were identical in every way except for the bolt pattern which was an 8 bolt pattern typical to Ford, Dodge, and Chevy. I bought the axels for $10 each and $15 each for two standard no split rim wheels. I took them home and put them on my International. It worked so well I removed my front hubs and matched them to the same Ford truck. I bought the hubs and wheels for both sides for 50$, took them home and installed them on the international. Now I was able to put brake drums for 104$each instead of the 90$ I was paying for the old Interntional drums. Later I converted the Ford disk brakes for almost nothing. I just takes time to parts match, but if you do you can save a ton of money !
Advocate I
Pathfinder I
Today I rebled the brakes with my motive pressure bleeder and a scantool. Then discovered that the current pedal issue is not hydraulic. Narrowed down to runout, the internal failure of the master, or the booster. Gonna put it back up and check runout on all four this weekend.
In other news I fixed a major PS leak due to a loose hose clamp, picked up distilled water to mix up some fresh coolant, and picked up my cup holders.
In other news I fixed a major PS leak due to a loose hose clamp, picked up distilled water to mix up some fresh coolant, and picked up my cup holders.
Off-Road Ranger I
Haha, good question - nothing in common almost at all!
I did own a 1996 LR Disco for a brief period in my life, I was weak! No, really I like that car, I just found the worst possible example on the planet, and i couldn't solve the #4 cylinder misfire issue on it. If we're ever around a campfire somewhere, I'll tell you the whole bloody story.
Dan.
Off-Road Ranger I
I owned a '96. Not sure how much the '96 and your '99 have in common, maybe you could check and see if this manual would do you any good.
LMK.
Dan.
Member II
Cup holders! [emoji482][emoji482][emoji482][emoji482]
It's the simplest things to impress a lr owner [emoji16]
Pathfinder I
Today was a fun one! Started by dropping the “y” pipe and removing some broken studs, all but the last one which I soaked in Kroil and left for a bit. While I waited for that to soak I pulled the radiator hoses, heater hoses, and thermostat housing off. Then I cleaned, inspected, and tumbled the hose clamps before fitting new hoses and refilling with distilled water. I pulled the battery to find my first real rust, which I promptly wire brushed, and sealed with POR-15.
Found my exhaust leak!
Battery tray before
Battery tray after
And if you have the means and a Land Rover I highly recommend you pick up one of these. It’s a flexible 6mm driver which works great on Norma clamps often used on BMWs and Land Rovers.
Found my exhaust leak!
Battery tray before
Battery tray after
And if you have the means and a Land Rover I highly recommend you pick up one of these. It’s a flexible 6mm driver which works great on Norma clamps often used on BMWs and Land Rovers.
Member III
Yesterday as I was driving home in the rain my right side wiper just suddenly quit. Yes a simple thing is important. What do you think might have caused this to happen.?
On the battery tray, dont you know a litle dad ill do ya. I dont think you will have a rust problem there for awhile if ever again. Does that POR 15 have a rust inhibitor in it , or is it the junk that turns rust into steel again without even removing the rust ? Hey you missed the batter hold down bolt, your slipping bad !! LOL
Member III
I bet you had fun getting that manifold off. I guess you didnt snap any exhaust bolts or you would have said so. I always worry about snapping off old bolts,
especially on aluminum heads.
Pathfinder I
It’s a moisture cured epoxy. It seals the corroded area from oxygen barring any further oxidizing(rusting). The hold down will get lanolin coated, the epoxy on the hold down would make it inoperable.
Pathfinder I
Three of the six were snapped off when I got the truck. I didn’t remove the manifolds from the heads, only the collector to “y” connections. I just welded an m8 nut onto the sticky stud and backed it out while it was still hot after it had a while for the oil to soak. Rear of the “y” pipe I coated the doughnut gasket in Worth exhaust fitting paste and bolted it back together sealing it completely.(it was damaged from being run without the gasket so long)
I won’t say I never snap studs, as it happens to everyone eventually, but I’ve never snapped HALF the studs on a single job and left them that way. But these are the things that made this truck so cheap to pickup.
Member III
Are you a mechanic by trade ? If your not, you certainly seem to qualify. I've worked on my own cars and my kids cars all my life and I have never heard of some of your repair materials like the POR 15 and Worth exhaust fitting paste. How does one weld a nut onto broken stud so that it can be removed. How do you do that and not even remove the exhaust manifold. Is Kroil the same as penetrating oil or is it something better ? Yes you are right about the LRD needed to be cheap because the work you have done to it in labor alone would triple the cost of of it.
Pathfinder I
I am a former mechanic, previously BMWs, been out for a decade or so, but I work on all sorts of things for fun.
This is a video of the method I used, I just did it overhead, between the frame rail and the engine block.
https://youtu.be/8Asb4RWMvig
Kroil (aero-kroil)is like PB blaster on steroids it’s the best penetrating oil I’ve ever found.
POR-15 is just what I grew up using on on anything I welded up. It works fantastic especially in humid areas like TN.
I think the exhaust paste was spec on e28 M5s where they were hand assembled but I’ve used it in everything from vintage sports cars to damaged lawnmower heads.
Member III
Thank you for sharing your knowledge on this subject. I have removed many broken bolts where a drill and easy out could be used. This method of welding a nut on to a broken stud is new to me and very informative.. Still doing it from above or below the vehicles engine had to be a tough nut to crack. What would some of us do without the kind of knowledge you possess and willing to share it.
