Fitting 35"s on a Silverado

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805RADO

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Hello everyone! So I was trying to get some knowledge on the impacts of attempting to fit 35"s on a Silverado and I would greatly appreciate anyone input.

Current set up: 2017 Z71 4x4 5.3l V8 Silverado Leveled 2.5" with Goodyear Wargler Duratrack 31"s

So I found this stock set up to be quite capable so I went the route of gear up grades first. Now that I have had my first taste of Sedona and some real trails, I want to start research on new tires and suspension.

Questions?
-Do you think I would also need to re gear if I went to 35"s?

-If I raise the truck, how high to fit them? -id prefer to stay as low as possible as this is my daily driver and sometimes drive in to San Francisco for work.

-Any good brands for a mid travel suspension on Silverados?

-Should I just stick with some beefy wide 33"s and slap some skid-plates on?

any knowledge on anything above would be great.
I attached what the set up currently looks like. IMG_8215.jpg IMG_8314.jpg
 

Cort

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GREAT LOOKING TRUCK!

You will get some varied opinions here, I’ll give you mine based on my own experience.

To go to 35’s....

Regear, yes, you do need to regear. This change in tire size will take the truck out of the optimum powerband. If you don’t you will get lower fuel economy, increased trans temps, and really poor performance.

New wheels, you will need wheels with less back spacing to be able to turn lock to lock without rubbing.

Speedo calibration is a must, it will be off quite a bit especially at highway speeds.

Lift, you will need a 4” lift alikely some trimming to get full articulation.

Budget= $8000-$14,000

You should still look at skid plates/rock sliders with the wheelbase of your truck considering breakover angles and the fact you will only be gaining a few inches of clearance.

Personally, with it being a daily driver in mind, I’d stick to a 10.5” wide 33” tire with skids/sliders.
 

805RADO

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GREAT LOOKING TRUCK!

You will get some varied opinions here, I’ll give you mine based on my own experience.

To go to 35’s....

Regear, yes, you do need to regear. This change in tire size will take the truck out of the optimum powerband. If you don’t you will get lower fuel economy, increased trans temps, and really poor performance.

New wheels, you will need wheels with less back spacing to be able to turn lock to lock without rubbing.

Speedo calibration is a must, it will be off quite a bit especially at highway speeds.

Lift, you will need a 4” lift alikely some trimming to get full articulation.

Budget= $8000-$14,000

You should still look at skid plates/rock sliders with the wheelbase of your truck considering breakover angles and the fact you will only be gaining a few inches of clearance.

Personally, with it being a daily driver in mind, I’d stick to a 10.5” wide 33” tire with skids/sliders.
Cort, Thank you! and thanks for this. Good info. The over all price is good to know because obviously this is whole list of stuff needs to be done at once (paid for at once haha)

I saw a video of a guy clearing 35"s with a 3.5" level from rough country on a new Silverado. Made me think it might be feasible, but practical is another question as the price tag is a lot higher and this is my daily the 33"s are starting to make more sense...
 
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Cort

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For how much you paid for that truck it would be a crime to ruin the ride and performance with a 3.5” rough country level!
 
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805RADO

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For how much you paid for that truck it would be a crime to ruin the ride and performance with a 3.5” rough country level!
Ya I think your right. Id have to go for a proper King suspension or something. Buy once cry once.

Well this might have made up my mind for now until I really want to drop some bucks on this.
 
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Cort

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Ya I think your right. Id have to go for a proper King suspension or something. Buy once cry once.

Well this might have made up my mind for now until I really want to drop some bucks on this.
Rate of diminishing returns. Your axles are your low point. The difference in ground clearance at the axle between 33” and 35” tires is 1”. 33”s will cost you $1200-$2000 depending on tire and if you will need new wheels. That extra inch of clearance at the axle with 35”s for $8000-$12,000 more might not be worth it.
 

805RADO

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Rate of diminishing returns. Your axles are your low point. The difference in ground clearance at the axle between 33” and 35” tires is 1”. 33”s will cost you $1200-$2000 depending on tire and if you will need new wheels. That extra inch of clearance at the axle with 35”s for $8000-$12,000 more might not be worth it.
yep, that make sense.

I think im not going to focus on what tires and wheels. Im thinking of changing to 16" wheels and maybe the 33" nitto ridge graps? or something similar. I think this will be my main question I want to answer while Im at Overland Expo.
 

JackP

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I'm in the same boat you are. I have a 2013 1500 and a 3" ish lift, I have 33's on it right now with no rubbing at full lock. Im very confident I could fit 35's no problem. The tires I have looked at are $6 difference between 33 and 35. I have talked to tons of different shops and the general consensous I have heard is it isnt worth re-gearing until 37. However I have heard that the chances of breaking important stuff is higher.

Ive had all the shops tell me I needed a 4" lift to do 33 and a 6" lift to do 35. This is not true (especially on the newer body style) when I only had a 2" level I was easily clearing the 33's without rubbing.

Second Im nut sure where the guy above is coming up with the 8-12k range unless he is including suspension which could theoretically cost you that.

Also after doing a ton of digging online I found a guy who measured the clearance he got befor and after a 4" lift. Turned out he decreased the clearance by like 2" because of the new cross member that gets added, so that is somthing to think about.



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Yes, I was including suspension, new wheels, and tires in my scenario.

The issue with larger tires isn’t always the ability to turn lock to lock on level ground but also at full articulation. Most of the time that requires lift, less back spacing on the wheels and trimming.
 

Phildirt

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BDS 4" suspension for that truck is around $3600. . Personally I'd go with Zone Offroad's 4.5" kit for $1200. We're not talking long travel here.

Wheels/tires shouldn't run more than $2500. Less if you run a black steel wheel (I would, the weight gain is offset by peace of mind that scratches aren't an issue).

Gears should run about $800 for front/rear 4.56 Yukons. Add about $600 for install.

So I come up with $7500 if you are capable of doing some of it yourself with a premium lift, around $5000 if you don't mind a more budget conscious suspension setup. Even less if you can install gears.

The difference between 33" and 35" tires is the least of your worries.
 
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805RADO

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I'm in the same boat you are. I have a 2013 1500 and a 3" ish lift, I have 33's on it right now with no rubbing at full lock. Im very confident I could fit 35's no problem. The tires I have looked at are $6 difference between 33 and 35. I have talked to tons of different shops and the general consensous I have heard is it isnt worth re-gearing until 37. However I have heard that the chances of breaking important stuff is higher.

Ive had all the shops tell me I needed a 4" lift to do 33 and a 6" lift to do 35. This is not true (especially on the newer body style) when I only had a 2" level I was easily clearing the 33's without rubbing.

Second Im nut sure where the guy above is coming up with the 8-12k range unless he is including suspension which could theoretically cost you that.

Also after doing a ton of digging online I found a guy who measured the clearance he got befor and after a 4" lift. Turned out he decreased the clearance by like 2" because of the new cross member that gets added, so that is somthing to think about.



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I think now thinking about it, Ill want to put some kind of "nicer" suspension on this this if I ever go to 35s (kings or Icons or something). I saw a video of a guy clearing 35s with a 3.5 Rough country level. But that high of a level might work on the road but trusting that on a remote trail is another thing.

Im also a little weary about not regearing for 35s because the 2017 5.3l V8 I have has the eco tech engine and it shuts 4 cylinders off when the load on the engine is low enough... I dont know if that will mess with anything? Maybe just another risk factor for breaking something expensive...
 
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805RADO

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BDS 4" suspension for that truck is around $3600. . Personally I'd go with Zone Offroad's 4.5" kit for $1200. We're not talking long travel here.

Wheels/tires shouldn't run more than $2500. Less if you run a black steel wheel (I would, the weight gain is offset by peace of mind that scratches aren't an issue).

Gears should run about $800 for front/rear 4.56 Yukons. Add about $600 for install.

So I come up with $7500 if you are capable of doing some of it yourself with a premium lift, around $5000 if you don't mind a more budget conscious suspension setup. Even less if you can install gears.

The difference between 33" and 35" tires is the least of your worries.
Ya, I think 33's is a good next step forward at this point. That is a lot of cash for 1 more inch off the ground. Maybe that is better spent on a nice bumper and winch... ?

I havent heard of Black Steel Wheels before, Any brands you suggest I look at? I have beat to shit the factory chevy rims and they show scratches like crazy. (update, yes Ive seen the black steel wheels I just didnt know the name)
 
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Bojak4909

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Look into "NorCal fender mod". 35 without the lift. Having invested in a quality 4" lift for my truck and 35's I will admit if I had to do it over again I wouldn't. I would probably have been just as or more happy with a level kit and 285/75s. Or level and fender mod and 35's. Imop if I was running a 1500 I would look at a coilovers and fender mod.

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Red Stick

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So OP. Where’d you end up with lift, wheels, and tires?
I’m fixing to put wheels and tires on a 17 Sierra 1500 with a 2.25” level. I Already have the 18x9 -12 offset Method wheels. I’ve just about decided on 305/65r18 (33.5x12).
 

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Definitely regear, I had 35x12.50r17 on my old 2011 sierra 5.3/6speed 3.42's and regretted it. Definitely needed more gearing. I won't put 35's under my 17 sierra unless I regear it.