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ZRex

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Influencer III

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Elizabethton, TN
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Mike
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The driveshaft loops are pretty common in racecars, mandated by many sanctioning bodies. This Example is for a car, but you can see the concept. This stops the driveshaft from destroying everything around it in the event that it breaks, limiting damage and injury from the thrashing shaft.
 
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billiardspintail

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Traveler II

1,845
San Jose, CA
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Bryce
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McNab
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The truck finally passed smog! It took an entirely new exhaust system, and a bunch of hose work in the engine bay to get it there, but it did. The carburetor was rebuilt, the distributor was re-clocked and the vacuum advance was installed correctly from before. They are now working on the last issue, when on city streets being tested last week, the engine bogged and died. It was running perfectly, "like a champ" says the mechanic, except for that issue. I'm hoping to have it back this week. They mentioned replacing the fuel filter, and replacing/wrapping a wire they found.

The side and rear windows have a terribly applied tint to them that I want to get removed, what's a good method? The rear window already had it removed but it has a ton of the adhesive still on it, I was thinking about using Goo Gone to rid the window of it.
 
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grubworm

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Member III

2,358
Thibodaux, LA, USA
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grub
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worm
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The truck finally passed smog! It took an entirely new exhaust system, and a bunch of hose work in the engine bay to get it there, but it did. The carburetor was rebuilt, the distributor was re-clocked and the vacuum advance was installed correctly from before. They are now working on the last issue, when on city streets being tested last week, the engine bogged and died. It was running perfectly, "like a champ" says the mechanic, except for that issue. I'm hoping to have it back this week. They mentioned replacing the fuel filter, and replacing/wrapping a wire they found.

The side and rear windows have a terribly applied tint to them that I want to get removed, what's a good method? The rear window already had it removed but it has a ton of the adhesive still on it, I was thinking about using Goo Gone to rid the window of it.
brother-in-law has a tint shop and he uses a hair dryer and razor knife to remove old tint and denatured alcohol to remove residue...goo gone is a petroleum product and leaves a slight oil behind

i have no actual experience with it since i tinted my ford pinto in high school with tint from k-mart and it looked like ass with bubbles and wrinkles and then later turned purple after being in the sun...thats one of those things i'll gladly pay to have done
 
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billiardspintail

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Traveler II

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San Jose, CA
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I picked up the truck today, and with the nearly 1 mile drive to work from the shop, it ran wonderfully. Now I get to start planning the upgrades, slight lifts, and interior restoration stuff for it
:smiley:
 
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renodemona

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Enthusiast II

2,198
Sparks, NV, USA
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Glenn
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Smith
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The truck finally passed smog! It took an entirely new exhaust system, and a bunch of hose work in the engine bay to get it there, but it did. The carburetor was rebuilt, the distributor was re-clocked and the vacuum advance was installed correctly from before. They are now working on the last issue, when on city streets being tested last week, the engine bogged and died. It was running perfectly, "like a champ" says the mechanic, except for that issue. I'm hoping to have it back this week. They mentioned replacing the fuel filter, and replacing/wrapping a wire they found.

The side and rear windows have a terribly applied tint to them that I want to get removed, what's a good method? The rear window already had it removed but it has a ton of the adhesive still on it, I was thinking about using Goo Gone to rid the window of it.
Hair Dryer/De Natured Alcohol works really well just have to go slow and be patient with the razor blade. I did a first pass with a paint scraper to get most of the film off then went to a razor blade to get what was left. I think the worst to remove are the wal mart specials where it looks purple :(
 

billiardspintail

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Traveler II

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San Jose, CA
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Hair Dryer/De Natured Alcohol works really well just have to go slow and be patient with the razor blade. I did a first pass with a paint scraper to get most of the film off then went to a razor blade to get what was left. I think the worst to remove are the wal mart specials where it looks purple :(
And that is exactly the type of film installed.
 

billiardspintail

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Traveler II

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San Jose, CA
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McNab
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Just a quick update, it's been running fine for the last month driving it. The starter sometimes doesn't even try to turn when it's too cold, it clicks once, but since the super cold days, it's started every time.
 
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M Rose

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Explorer I

5,171
La Grande, Oregon, USA
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Your cold start syptoms sound like a battery that either doesnt have enough cold cranking amps, or it has a dead cell. Either way, best bet is to get a batterey with the minimum CCA rating or higher for your rig. I usually put the largest battery I can fit in the stock battery tray.
 

billiardspintail

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The battery is only a year old, is rated for the CCA needed, and always tests good, though I originally thought it was the battery. After a few times turning the key, the starter fires and the engine starts right up.
 

billiardspintail

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Traveler II

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Second thought would be battery cable corrosion, look for swollen insulation as well as corrosion on battery cable ends. Poor ground could also be a cause.
I'll take a look for that. There are definitely other symptoms of a bad ground. Sometimes the 12v socket will lose power for a second and come back while driving, and the dash cluster lights for Brake and 4x4 sometimes just don't come on.
 

Old Griz

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Enthusiast III

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North Idaho
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A few weeks ago, I had to sell my 1959 Jeep FC-170. She wasn't in driving condition and needed a lot more work to get to that point. So, she was sold. I took what I got from Betsy, and put it towards Walt (trialing that name for now), a 1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. It actually runs and is registered!

View attachment 118830

30 miles from where I bought it, and the V-Belt around the A/C Compressor and Alternator snapped on the freeway. After a tow from AAA, it's in the shop, and should be returning to me today. I've got my eye on a roof top tent, maybe a throttle body injection kit, and definitely need to replace the carpet and get a headliner in there. Almost everything works, some things are missing and the interior is rough, but workable. I'm really excited to finally have a truck that I can take out and explore with.
Nice old Waggy!!
If you need parts for it I have found a good source.
www.montanaoverland.com
They have everything from the smallest parts to entire vehicles.
Parting with the FC had to be traumatic
 

billiardspintail

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Traveler II

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San Jose, CA
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Bryce
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McNab
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Nice old Waggy!!
If you need parts for it I have found a good source.
www.montanaoverland.com
They have everything from the smallest parts to entire vehicles.
Parting with the FC had to be traumatic
I've left a few voicemails with them about some parts that teamgrandwagoneer.com didn't have, and they never got back to me.
 

Old Griz

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Enthusiast III

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North Idaho
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Just a quick update, it's been running fine for the last month driving it. The starter sometimes doesn't even try to turn when it's too cold, it clicks once, but since the super cold days, it's started every time.
With a one click no start and works well at others I would look first at both ends of both battery cables. I think you have a corrosion issue on one of them. I would recommend replacing both of them, cheap insurance you can do in your own driveway. I build my own using heavy welding cable and heavy duty crimp on ends.