Traveler II
I've checked out BJs, and their kit is good, but expensive. My wagoneer currently has the 2150 with altitude compensator. If it dies, I might just go TBI. Thanks!
"An ending is just another beginning."
- Thread starter billiardspintail
- Start date
Traveler II
I've been working hard on getting the audio setup up to par so I can enjoy driving the Wagoneer more. The previous owner had originally replaced the 5 1/4" round speakers up front with 4x6 speakers -- my guess because he had them sitting around. I replaced those speakers with RetroSound R-525N speakers from Crutchfield. I also replaced the back speakers. When I put the Wagoneer in as my car, they sent free harness adapters, which worked great in the back, but the original harness had been taken out in the front.
I also added an FM modulator to behind the radio so I could keep the original head unit to keep an original look. It works well, but I'm waiting on some splice wire terminals to arrive for me to rewire it in a nice way -- I'll get some pictures when I do that. I've installed a 3.5mm audio jack under the dash, and I'm using a basic Bluetooth kit for wireless calling/audio, but you can unplug it and plug in any 3.5mm audio jack to play audio.
For my phone, I've tried two different sticky suction cup mounted holders that keep falling off the dash, no matter what I do. So, I'm looking to go back to my trusted RAM mount system. I'm planning to find a mount I can put on the dash face and bolt into the dash frame somehow so It's really solid. I have some measuring to do.
For power, I've ordered a flush USB charger to sit in the ashtray. I wanted flush, so when I unplugged stuff, I could close the ash tray. I want to find a flush USB cord for changing my phone at least, and I'm hardwiring the bluetooth into power, so it doesn't take up my precious slots.
Testing the audio, it sounds awesome, and I can't wait to take it out on the road for some testing, after all this shelter-in-place is lifted.
I also added an FM modulator to behind the radio so I could keep the original head unit to keep an original look. It works well, but I'm waiting on some splice wire terminals to arrive for me to rewire it in a nice way -- I'll get some pictures when I do that. I've installed a 3.5mm audio jack under the dash, and I'm using a basic Bluetooth kit for wireless calling/audio, but you can unplug it and plug in any 3.5mm audio jack to play audio.
For my phone, I've tried two different sticky suction cup mounted holders that keep falling off the dash, no matter what I do. So, I'm looking to go back to my trusted RAM mount system. I'm planning to find a mount I can put on the dash face and bolt into the dash frame somehow so It's really solid. I have some measuring to do.
For power, I've ordered a flush USB charger to sit in the ashtray. I wanted flush, so when I unplugged stuff, I could close the ash tray. I want to find a flush USB cord for changing my phone at least, and I'm hardwiring the bluetooth into power, so it doesn't take up my precious slots.
Testing the audio, it sounds awesome, and I can't wait to take it out on the road for some testing, after all this shelter-in-place is lifted.
Traveler II
Traveler II
I've made some more (minor) changes to the bluetooth setup! First: I hardwired a USB power adapter into the Radio's power to run the bluetooth to get rid of the wiring in the front, and free up the other USB port for my passengers. But, of course, I wired the FM Modulator and Bluetooth power to run off of the BATTERY wire on the radio, and not the ACC/IGN (Ignition) wire, so the Wagoneer died. I was planning to put an onboard battery charger in this thing at some point, and this makes me want to get one sooner.
I changed the wiring around so the bluetooth and modulator run off the ignition wire, tested working now, and the battery shouldn't die as quick anymore.
Other updates:
I've finally gotten the cargo carpet out of the trunk, it was rotted away mostly. I was able to save all the strips, but they are bent. We'll see how well they work when I get the new carpet. I also found BJ's Offroad has new panels for the cargo area and doors that are ABS plastic instead of that weird cardboard/wood thing that easily warped and molded. I also found a company that sells refurbished cargo covers which is great for daily driving that I want to do, but not useful in overlanding, as I plan to have bins packed vertically in the back.
I changed the wiring around so the bluetooth and modulator run off the ignition wire, tested working now, and the battery shouldn't die as quick anymore.
Other updates:
I've finally gotten the cargo carpet out of the trunk, it was rotted away mostly. I was able to save all the strips, but they are bent. We'll see how well they work when I get the new carpet. I also found BJ's Offroad has new panels for the cargo area and doors that are ABS plastic instead of that weird cardboard/wood thing that easily warped and molded. I also found a company that sells refurbished cargo covers which is great for daily driving that I want to do, but not useful in overlanding, as I plan to have bins packed vertically in the back.
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Traveler II
Finally, I've been working on some basic stuff for the rig: getting rid of the ugly purple tint with bubbles, and the adhesive. Here's the before and after.
There's a lot more cleanup to do, and two more windows. The actual before image is one I have yet to do, but the clean window does really show how bad the tint is/was.
There's a lot more cleanup to do, and two more windows. The actual before image is one I have yet to do, but the clean window does really show how bad the tint is/was.
Contributor II
A poor battery grounding is very common on the wagoneer. I had that problem on my 79 I grounded battery to the frame and frame to the engine block.
Contributor II
TBI is the way to go. You can eliminate most of the smog equipment and have improved engine performance and better engine start. It was the best thing I ever did to my wagoneer
Traveler II
I should have posted here an update about that. The problem we found was a faulty neutral/park safety switch. In order to start it, I have to lift the shifter from park until it stops at the very top, then it'll start right away. We aren't sure if the switch is actually faulty, or there is too much play in the shift lever itself. Feels solid in every gear.
I'm planning either a TBI conversion when the carburetor starts giving me more problems, or swapping in a new drivetrain, money notwithstanding. A newer Chevy 350 with a transmssion that has a torque lockout, and overdrive would do wonders for the on-road performance of this thing.
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Traveler II
I've been thinking about something I can do to help insulate the inside of the truck. I want to put some adhesive backed sounds/heat insulation on the roof to help keep the inside cool, but I'm not sure if the headliner (when I buy it) will have enough room between it's back and the top of the inside of the roof for an 1/8th or 1/4th inch padding. Any ideas?
Traveler II
Update! I've gotten a new job, and have one week between jobs that I'm terming Wagoneer Week. I've got a load of work to complete during that week including:
- Install sound deadening insulation in the cargo area.
- Install new switch in the tailgate for the key switch to open the tailgate window.
- Complete tint removal, and final window cleanup.
- Reshape or replace chromed metal strips that go on the floor and tailgate.
- Try to diagnose long crank times when cold starting after the truck has been sitting for a while.
- Confirm my current suction cup phone mount will work on the glove box door in the heat, and over time, or else get a new RAM mount and mounting location.
- Repair or replace the Jeep Hood Emblem
- Install rubber bumperettes on rear bumper.
I have more stuff I want to do, if I can get the parts during that week, but they are my stretch goals.
- Install sound deadening insulation in the cargo area.
- Install new switch in the tailgate for the key switch to open the tailgate window.
- Complete tint removal, and final window cleanup.
- Reshape or replace chromed metal strips that go on the floor and tailgate.
- Try to diagnose long crank times when cold starting after the truck has been sitting for a while.
- Confirm my current suction cup phone mount will work on the glove box door in the heat, and over time, or else get a new RAM mount and mounting location.
- Repair or replace the Jeep Hood Emblem
- Install rubber bumperettes on rear bumper.
I have more stuff I want to do, if I can get the parts during that week, but they are my stretch goals.
Traveler II
Alright, two days of work (really 1.5 because of allergies), I've gotten a lot done! Sound deadening is done for the tailgate and roof. Today I'm working on the floor, and I'm spray painting a plastic center console tan to match the rest of the interior, instead of the blue it is now. I've got a cell phone holder working by suction cupping one to the glove box door, instead of an expensive RAM mount.
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Traveler II
Ah ha, day three went really well! Got and painted my "center console" from an ugly blue to a very well color matched "burlap", and started cleaning/degreasing the cargo area for insulation.
I'm really happy with the color of the burlap Rustoleum, and I think I can get away with using that spray paint for some minor trim touchups around the rig here and there.
I'm really happy with the color of the burlap Rustoleum, and I think I can get away with using that spray paint for some minor trim touchups around the rig here and there.
Traveler II
On the way to me is another pack of kilmat 80mil butyl sound deadener, and some noico 315mil thermal insulation that I'll use on the roof and inside the side wells in the cargo area with more butyl sound deadener for a more comfortable interior heat- and sound-wise. I'm also realizing why projects like these are expensive -- buying tools. I don't have a traditional garage and toolset, so having to buy a hole saw, trim kit, insulation roller, shears, etc. has eaten a ton of the budget, but it is what it is. I also have a Deluxe Tailgate Renewal Kit for the wagoneer coming in, hoping this fixs the slow roll up/down speed of the window and I don't need to drop $200 on a rebuilt motor, and a set of ABS cargo panels with Tailgate panel to replace the molded and warped wood board panels that the carpet will eventually adhere too. I'll be lining the side cargo panels with the noico thermal insulation, but I don't think putting butyl sound deadener will be useful, as that's for harmonics on metal.
I have a few more small things to accomplish in my last 2 days of Wagoneer Week, these panels and renewel kit won't be here in time to finish the week out, but they will be in soon after I've got them. Pretty much after the insulation is done, and the panels are in, I'll be buying the Cargo Area Carpet, and maybe even the headliner.
I have a few more small things to accomplish in my last 2 days of Wagoneer Week, these panels and renewel kit won't be here in time to finish the week out, but they will be in soon after I've got them. Pretty much after the insulation is done, and the panels are in, I'll be buying the Cargo Area Carpet, and maybe even the headliner.
Traveler II
Alright, Wagoneer Week has come to a close. I've completed a lot, but not everything on my list. I've secured a location for a suction cup phone mount, so no super expensive mount system needed, and sound deadened the tailgate, roof of the cargo area, and most of the floor. More insulation just arrived, and the rust reformer is on the way. New backing boards for the cargo area are also on the way, as is a restoration kit for the tailgate. I've found a new vacuum leak that needs to be fixed, but also found a full replacement A/C system that takes the more modern R134a, to replace the current, busted A/C system. It's expensive, but I want A/C, especially during the summer. So, although a ton of work got done, and some couldn't be done, and more work was found during this, I'm declaring Wagoneer Week a success.
Traveler II
Alrighty then! I've slowed down on working on the truck a bit, as I've waited for more stuff to arrive. I've ordered: cab lights, LEDs, and ABS backing panels for the carpet in the cargo area.
I've completed the install of the tailgate restoration kit, new channels and gaskets all around, but it seems I've tweaked the tailgate a bit, and the passenger side is sticking hard. Very difficult to open now, and I need to figure out why that is.
I've also got a gold leaf hood emblem. Not sure which models of Grand Wagoneer it is supposed to come on, but it'll look nice, and got some gasket material to get a nice seal between the emblem and the hood, even though there was no gasket originally.
I'm in the middle of fixing the tailgate window switch, so that I can roll the window down using the key in the tailgate, but there is no 12v power. I was able to test it by running a temp wire from the positive battery to the new switch, and it worked. So I have no tailgate window in the truck, and it's just open. I'll be taking the truck to the mechanic to deal with a new vacuum leak involving the transmission, and an oil leak, so I'll have them fix the power, and put it all back together. They're also looking at putting a new A/C unit from BJ's Offroad, because mine doesn't work at all.
I've completed the install of the tailgate restoration kit, new channels and gaskets all around, but it seems I've tweaked the tailgate a bit, and the passenger side is sticking hard. Very difficult to open now, and I need to figure out why that is.
I've also got a gold leaf hood emblem. Not sure which models of Grand Wagoneer it is supposed to come on, but it'll look nice, and got some gasket material to get a nice seal between the emblem and the hood, even though there was no gasket originally.
I'm in the middle of fixing the tailgate window switch, so that I can roll the window down using the key in the tailgate, but there is no 12v power. I was able to test it by running a temp wire from the positive battery to the new switch, and it worked. So I have no tailgate window in the truck, and it's just open. I'll be taking the truck to the mechanic to deal with a new vacuum leak involving the transmission, and an oil leak, so I'll have them fix the power, and put it all back together. They're also looking at putting a new A/C unit from BJ's Offroad, because mine doesn't work at all.
Traveler II
We woke up in the middle of the rain a few weeks ago to find 5 gallons of moldy water pouring in from the kitchen ceiling of our apartment. After a positive black mold test, and rodents entering the apartment through the caved in ceiling, we moved into a hotel for a week, and then found a new place to live that doesn't have space for a project truck, on top of our two daily drivers. Following a similar story that this Wagoneer did to replace my FC-170, the Grand Wagoneer was sold, and the project is no longer continuing. At some point I'll be buying a new project truck, I have some ideas, and if it will be while we live at this new apartment, it would be a replacement for a daily driver -- so much more modern, serviceable, and decent on gas mileage. I'm very bummed.
Member III
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- First Name
- Rolando
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- Nispiros
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17011
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Very nice!
Now head on over to FCA or Stellanis or whatever they call themselves this decade, whow them your gmGrand Wagoneer, and tell them THIS is how the new one should have been done!
Traveler II
Sorry about that timing, though have a cool plan for the next rig that I'll post a link here to the new thread, when that eventually happens, it will be Grand Wagoneer related!
