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M Rose

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Good post. I don't know anything about a change over but my ac tech said it would cost around $500 several years ago. It could be that he can have his existing system repaired for less if he just needs a compress or evaporator I would think.
He could have the system repaired and refilled with R12, if R12 is even available in California. Like the op stated though, better to rebuild the whole system and convert to R134a.

I would ask said shop how much it would cost to evacuate the system, then order all the parts and change them yourself. Then when done have him pull a vacuum to check for leaks and boil all the atmosphere out of the lines, then charge the new system.

another thought, take said rig out of California and go somewhere where it’s cold as colder climates charge less for ac repairs
 
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M Rose

Local Expert
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Advocate III

5,584
Northeast Oregon, United States
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Michael
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Rose
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US ARMY Retired
I just spoke with a reputable AC shop near me, and he surely charges a premium -- $1,500 -- though he changes everything but the evap core, and says unless it's a low mileage vehicle, that's the only way to ensure we don't blow out the compressor or hoses after a few months. So I think I'm saving up a bit before that. Thankfully I have a few months at least before the heat comes.
One other option... take it to your local community college. When I was taking my A/C classes we worked in the public’s rigs for the cost of parts... usually about $300 for a complete system install and refrigerant charge.
 

billiardspintail

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Driving the wagoneer to work one day, the engine started to whistle, which I knew to be a vacuum leak. Since the entire engine is dependent on it's own vacuum for just about everything, I drove it over to the shop, and they confirmed the intake manifold gasket was leaking by spraying some stuff on the edge of the intake manifold, and the whistling/rough idle and all other symptoms cleared up for a few seconds. They lifted the manifold to replace the gasket and found all this nasty stuff:

be4919cf9b1e3c517361b53faffb0b775b64c547.jpg
So now that's being cleaned up and put back together. While they've got the rig, they are also putting in the new front seat belts -- the driver's buckle wouldn't do it's namesake. Overall, happy with where we are at, and the next steps are to get the "seal of mechanical approval" before getting the suspension done. Then on to the interior.
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Driving the wagoneer to work one day, the engine started to whistle, which I knew to be a vacuum leak. Since the entire engine is dependent on it's own vacuum for just about everything, I drove it over to the shop, and they confirmed the intake manifold gasket was leaking by spraying some stuff on the edge of the intake manifold, and the whistling/rough idle and all other symptoms cleared up for a few seconds. They lifted the manifold to replace the gasket and found all this nasty stuff:

View attachment 142646
So now that's being cleaned up and put back together. While they've got the rig, they are also putting in the new front seat belts -- the driver's buckle wouldn't do it's namesake. Overall, happy with where we are at, and the next steps are to get the "seal of mechanical approval" before getting the suspension done. Then on to the interior.
I wonder what the rest of the engine looks like ? That's scary !
 

billiardspintail

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I wonder what the rest of the engine looks like ? That's scary !
Pretty sure the rest of the engine looks like crap too on the inside. Not sure what I can do about that now without a complete rebuild to tear it down. As long as it runs well, I think I'm good, but I'm sure I'll keep running into problems here and there.
 

billiardspintail

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Drove the truck 3 days in a row after getting it back from the mechanics, and it gave me 0 trouble at all, where before it would have little quirks here and there. It's pretty clear now that the intake gasket has had a vacuum leak for a while, and when it heated up, it would seal for a while, and eventually it expanded. Now it runs like a damned dream.
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Drove the truck 3 days in a row after getting it back from the mechanics, and it gave me 0 trouble at all, where before it would have little quirks here and there. It's pretty clear now that the intake gasket has had a vacuum leak for a while, and when it heated up, it would seal for a while, and eventually it expanded. Now it runs like a damned dream.
Makes you wonder how it passed inspection dosent it ?
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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such a solid group of knowledge from all over the world here. Great tip !! I'm sure it's appreciated.
If that's a knock, dont. It'a all freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee LOL
I tried giving bad advise once to this group, just to see if anyone would respond.. Not a GOOD idea I can verify.
 

Hoss2500

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If that's a knock, dont. It'a all freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee LOL
I tried giving bad advise once to this group, just to see if anyone would respond.. Not a GOOD idea I can verify.

Not a knock at all. I'm serious. I've learned a ton from just being on these boards in a week. Gonna donate and become a member for sure. Lovin the jeep progress.
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Not a knock at all. I'm serious. I've learned a ton from just being on these boards in a week. Gonna donate and become a member for sure. Lovin the jeep progress.
Great, I thought you were jesting. This is home for me. Learning a lot more than my Daddy taught me. Really good threads on all subjects. I dont know what a lot are talking about but when I ask they respond positively, forgiving my ignorance.
 

Hoss2500

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Great, I thought you were jesting. This is home for me. Learning a lot more than my Daddy taught me. Really good threads on all subjects. I dont know what a lot are talking about but when I ask they respond positively, forgiving my ignorance.
Apologies if that came off any way other than complimenting the entire club. That is how it was and is intended.
 

billiardspintail

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Here's my next few steps:

I've been thinking about changing out the power rear window (it rolls down into the tailgate) to a manual one, Team Grand Wagoneer sells a kit to do just this. You put the key in then roll it down manually. I worry that the motor is beginning to die, and there is a way to retrofit a Durango window motor in with some cutting, but that might be beyond my ability or time. Plus, it would be cool to be able to open up the rear of the truck without using battery power while out in the sticks.

I also need to fix the electric door locks, but more importantly, I need to get a new suspension. TGW also makes a 3" lift kit set that has just about, if not, everything. That's the next major bit, then I'm off to start working on the interior. Small at-home projects for me are to finish installed the new speakers, and getting the FM Modulator and bluetooth kit installed, so I can finally listen to something other than the ads on the radio.

Also there is the carpet, headliner, and there are some custom safety stuff I'd like to get working: There is a site I've found with instructions to add head rests to the rear seats, and shoulder belts to the rear seats, but those are way off right now. I've only done research, so we'll see if this plan survives contact with the enemy (implementation) :).
 
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Hoss2500

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Here's my next few steps:

I've been thinking about changing out the power rear window (it rolls down into the tailgate) to a manual one, Team Grand Wagoneer sells a kit to do just this. You put the key in then roll it down manually. I worry that the motor is beginning to die, and there is a way to retrofit a Durango window motor in with some cutting, but that might be beyond my ability or time. Plus, it would be cool to be able to open up the rear of the truck without using battery power while out in the sticks.

I also need to fix the electric door locks, but more importantly, I need to get a new suspension. TGW also makes a 3" lift kit set that has just about, if not, everything. That's the next major bit, then I'm off to start working on the interior. Small at-home projects for me are to finish installed the new speakers, and getting the FM Modulator and bluetooth kit installed, so I can finally listen to something other than the ads on the radio.

Also there is the carpet, headliner, and there are some custom safety stuff I'd like to get working: There is a site I've found with instructions to add head rests to the rear seats, and shoulder belts to the rear seats, but those are way off right now. I've only done research, so we'll see if this plan survives contact with the enemy (implementation) :).

I am having this same exact problem with my Burb. I replaced the tailgate window motor and it was working aweomse and then it got fried. I would love a manual crank. pain in the ass to crawl in the back to lower it from the inside but the motor will never go out.
Keep us posted on which way you go.
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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Apologies if that came off any way other than complimenting the entire club. That is how it was and is intended.
There is a lot of sarcastic humor at times that I dig, I love it but it makes it hard sometime for me to tell the difference.
I do it too at times. Your fine, I'm probable the only one in OB that would have said that in my first post and I wasn't accusing either, Just wondering kinda out loud. Sorry Friend of OB !!
 

billiardspintail

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I am having this same exact problem with my Burb. I replaced the tailgate window motor and it was working aweomse and then it got fried. I would love a manual crank. pain in the ass to crawl in the back to lower it from the inside but the motor will never go out.
Keep us posted on which way you go.
Luckily, the Waggy has the ability to roll down from outside the truck. I'll keep y'all apprised.
 

Lanlubber In Remembrance

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I am having this same exact problem with my Burb. I replaced the tailgate window motor and it was working aweomse and then it got fried. I would love a manual crank. pain in the ass to crawl in the back to lower it from the inside but the motor will never go out.
Keep us posted on which way you go.
I think, I'm not a GM guy , but I watched a utube video where the guy replace the back window with a manual roll up unit.
I would think most all mfg's would have something due to the fact they usually sell standard and deluxe models..
 
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JimBill

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TGW also makes a 3" lift kit set that has just about, if not, everything.
Also check BJ's Offroad for lift kits and parts. The SkyJacker is the best riding 4", and consider the 2.5 inch stock type spring kit. Go for a lot of thinner leafs for best ride and flex rather than fewer and thicker leafs. Breakover clearance is fantastic since Jeep tucked the transfer case so well, a lot of lift isn't needed. Go as big as you need to fit the tire you want. Due to budget at the time I went with 3" rough country, the cheapest, and still have friends that won't ride in it. Feels like I have iron beams for front springs. Just my opinion so take it for what it's worth. Best of luck in your project.

FYI- As of two weekends ago, there was a 81 Wagoneer at Pick&Pull in Salinas. It was in so good a shape it was sad to see it there. I think I was the first to see it, took the windshield washer bottle for my 76. The carb is a Motorcraft 2150 2 bbl with altitude compensation. If it is still there and you don't go fuel injection, that is a compliant best carb for the 360.
 
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