Enthusiast III
Saw this on the tubes, thought it would be a fun project!
DIY Solar Shower
- Thread starter Voodoo
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Enthusiast III
Enthusiast III
I am still working on a permanent mounting solution. It holds pressure at 50psi with no issues and works great. You definitely need a pipe wrench handy to open and close the fill cap as that seemed to be the only place it would leak if it wasn't tightened enough. My ABS glue technique was a bit messy but I am otherwise very happy with the 60 bucks I spent on the project! I hope this helps!
Enthusiast III
Member III
This just put all my current projects on hold... this is awesome!
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Creator III
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Try using this in place of drilling your pipe for a fill port. Lowes has it as a 4in x 4in x 2in Sanatary T. You can still put a petcock in it for a bleeder valve.
Just started working on mine today. I am using 2 4” pvc pipes to be connected by tubing which will allow me twice the capacity as I have wife & 11 year old daughter so I’ll need that extra water. Can’t figure out if it’s getting mounted on the Jeep or trailer will post pictures next week when completed. Thanks for the info & video.
Influencer I
This a great alternative to buying pre-made, and looks like a fun project that can be modified as you go......
Traveler III
Traveler III
I bought the 4" PVC Schedule 40 pipe and T-Connector with threaded cap. However, I need a flat end cap for the back so I can add the Valve and Hose Spigot. I also need to order the Metal Valve Stem, to replace the rubber seal one I got from a tire store - not sure the one I have will correctly seal.
@Jku Ben - what did you use for the end cap - what brand, any issues?
@Jku Ben - what did you use for the end cap - what brand, any issues?
Traveler III
Got some foam blocks from a neighbor, and cut them to fit my stock roof rack.
Where do I find a 4” flat end cap for the valve and hose spigot? Anyone?
Where do I find a 4” flat end cap for the valve and hose spigot? Anyone?
Check out pvc40.com, can’t seem to copy and paste their pics, what I would do is buy a reducing tee that is 4”slip x 3/4”FPT X 4” slip, and use a normal end cap, avoid trying to tap (thread) the end cap that you may pressurize, looks like a weak spot to me. You want a valve stem with a nut on the inside (aluminum wheel type I believe). I’m assuming the conduit fitting you have there is just to back up the threaded part, could be tough to glue conduit and pvc.
Traveler III
@Ditcherman I ended up using the rounded cap. Drilled the holes and test fitted the hose spigot and metal valve stem (found 4 pack on Amazon), and painted. Done!
With pressure it leaked, but I sealed up the caps and connectors with the Silicon. Should be good.
With pressure it leaked, but I sealed up the caps and connectors with the Silicon. Should be good.
Member III
Looks like a very neat and possibly very handy project.
However, I have explosive concerns. As in... it may explode and hurt someone. What kind of pressure do you pressurize it to... and what pressure does it end up being after it heats up?
Kind of reminds me of the spud guns from back in the day. lol
However, I have explosive concerns. As in... it may explode and hurt someone. What kind of pressure do you pressurize it to... and what pressure does it end up being after it heats up?
Kind of reminds me of the spud guns from back in the day. lol
ABS 4” end cap. Abs is used as a drain not pressurized but it is rated for 80 psi & im only going 30 to 40 psi so figured I’d be good. The cap you have in the picture is the correct one & it is rated up to 160 psi I believe.
