• Guest, UPDATE We went through the site migration runbook and completed all steps. We will need to complete the migration next week, but will leave the forums up for the weekend. A few days after maintenance, a major upgrade revision to the forum site will occur.
  • HTML tutorial

DIY Solar Shower

Ultragoat

Rank II
Launch Member

Traveler I

I just made one for myself based off of this guys video! It's awesome.....just have to figure out my permanent mounting method.
 

Ultragoat

Rank II
Launch Member

Traveler I

Perhaps a few pics of your build would be cool!
file-1.jpegfile2.jpeg file1.jpeg I am still working on a permanent mounting solution. It holds pressure at 50psi with no issues and works great. You definitely need a pipe wrench handy to open and close the fill cap as that seemed to be the only place it would leak if it wasn't tightened enough. My ABS glue technique was a bit messy but I am otherwise very happy with the 60 bucks I spent on the project! I hope this helps!
 

Hula_100

Rank IV
Launch Member

Traveler III

This just put all my current projects on hold... this is awesome!


Sent from my iPhone using OB Talk
 

Rubicajon

Rank VI
Launch Member
Member

Creator III

Try using this in place of drilling your pipe for a fill port. Lowes has it as a 4in x 4in x 2in Sanatary T. You can still put a petcock in it for a bleeder valve.

 
S

SubeeBen

Guest
Just started working on mine today. I am using 2 4” pvc pipes to be connected by tubing which will allow me twice the capacity as I have wife & 11 year old daughter so I’ll need that extra water. Can’t figure out if it’s getting mounted on the Jeep or trailer will post pictures next week when completed. Thanks for the info & video.
 

HeliSniper

Rank VI
Launch Member

Influencer I

This a great alternative to buying pre-made, and looks like a fun project that can be modified as you go......
 

Socrfn73

Rank V
Member
Investor

Traveler III

I bought the 4" PVC Schedule 40 pipe and T-Connector with threaded cap. However, I need a flat end cap for the back so I can add the Valve and Hose Spigot. I also need to order the Metal Valve Stem, to replace the rubber seal one I got from a tire store - not sure the one I have will correctly seal.

@Jku Ben - what did you use for the end cap - what brand, any issues?

IMG_2701.JPG
 

Socrfn73

Rank V
Member
Investor

Traveler III

Got some foam blocks from a neighbor, and cut them to fit my stock roof rack.

Where do I find a 4” flat end cap for the valve and hose spigot? Anyone?

IMG_2706.JPG
 

Ditcherman

Rank V
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

Got some foam blocks from a neighbor, and cut them to fit my stock roof rack.

Where do I find a 4” flat end cap for the valve and hose spigot? Anyone?

View attachment 64655
Got some foam blocks from a neighbor, and cut them to fit my stock roof rack.

Where do I find a 4” flat end cap for the valve and hose spigot? Anyone?

View attachment 64655
Check out pvc40.com, can’t seem to copy and paste their pics, what I would do is buy a reducing tee that is 4”slip x 3/4”FPT X 4” slip, and use a normal end cap, avoid trying to tap (thread) the end cap that you may pressurize, looks like a weak spot to me. You want a valve stem with a nut on the inside (aluminum wheel type I believe). I’m assuming the conduit fitting you have there is just to back up the threaded part, could be tough to glue conduit and pvc.
 

Socrfn73

Rank V
Member
Investor

Traveler III

@Ditcherman I ended up using the rounded cap. Drilled the holes and test fitted the hose spigot and metal valve stem (found 4 pack on Amazon), and painted. Done!

With pressure it leaked, but I sealed up the caps and connectors with the Silicon. Should be good.

IMG_2728.JPG
 

great08

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

Looks like a very neat and possibly very handy project.

However, I have explosive concerns. As in... it may explode and hurt someone. What kind of pressure do you pressurize it to... and what pressure does it end up being after it heats up?

Kind of reminds me of the spud guns from back in the day. lol
 
S

SubeeBen

Guest
I bought the 4" PVC Schedule 40 pipe and T-Connector with threaded cap. However, I need a flat end cap for the back so I can add the Valve and Hose Spigot. I also need to order the Metal Valve Stem, to replace the rubber seal one I got from a tire store - not sure the one I have will correctly seal.

@Jku Ben - what did you use for the end cap - what brand, any issues?

View attachment 64612
ABS 4” end cap. Abs is used as a drain not pressurized but it is rated for 80 psi & im only going 30 to 40 psi so figured I’d be good. The cap you have in the picture is the correct one & it is rated up to 160 psi I believe.
 
Top