Alaskan 95'

  • HTML tutorial

alaskan.lad

Rank V
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,721
Palmer, Alaska
First Name
Gabe
Last Name
Hurt
Member #

6503

Hey all.

Wanted to start a thread that documented my new build.

Specs:
1995 sr5 4runner 4x4
Sierra Beige Metallic, tan cloth interior
3.0 3vze, 5speed r150 transmission
4.56 factory gears, OEM Toyota tow package

I lucked into this 4runner that had been sitting in a buddy's yard for six years. He had picked it up due to its immaculate nature, knowing that someday he would build it into a super clean daily. I convinced him to pawn it off on me for $2000 with a locked up 3.0 and plenty of filth. I wanted this build to be simple, fairly cheap, and to extend the lifespan of the motor and chassis with tasteful modifications that would give me more peace of mind on extended trips and off-road.

Modifications/upgrades:
AC delete
Auto hub delete (Aisin manual hubs)
Cat delete (lc engineering)
Chrome delete
EGR delete (lc engineering)
Auto antenna delete (broken anyways)
4 crawler offroad 1.5" BJ spacer/rear coil spacer, sway bar drop, rear proportioning valve spacer, 1" diff drop
Moog stock size rear coils
KYB red +2 F shocks
KYB red R shocks
Trailgear weldable shock mounts (to raise rear shock placement adjusting for lift)
F/R sway bar end links
OEM cat back exhaust (rusted out)
New front rotors/pads
New CV axles L/R
New F wheel bearings
New tie rod ends
New BJ U/L
Marlin Crawler short shift kit
Yakima rack system
BFG 33x10.5x15 on steelies
Northcore seat covers
Wrap crossover manifold with heat wrap
Vision X 9004 bulbs
Vision X 4.5" LED fog lamps
Red LED map lights, LED cargo lamp, LED reverse bulbs
Synthetic gear lube F/R diffs, Tcase, Trans
Diff breathers
Replaced rear wiper blade
Bosch Icon wipers

After being a 22re guy for my previous life, I am looking forward to getting into the increased tourqe, HP, and smoothness that comes out of these motors. I know that the 3.0 isn't ideal, but with the gearing and on 33's it should be much faster than my 22re on 30's. A few tricks and common sense stuff into the motor build (new head studs, remanned/tanked heads, wrapping cross over exhaust) gives me some peace of mind that I should have a long life with the motor. Eventually, I will pull the motor (running, hopefully) and swap in a 3.4 Taco motor. Until then, 3.0 it is.

The torsion bars were fully cranked as it sat, so I completely relaxed them. I wanted a comfortable highway ride, and with them maxed out you couldn't even flex the front suspension, not sure how the PO drove it at all.

I'll put up all the pictures I have until now, currently the last things happening are the shocks going in front and rear, then it will be purely motor build, hopefully turning it over initially sometime in the next week. Once it's running first stop is an alignment, and she should be good to go.

Previous build:
https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/threads/1991-toyota-pickup-scsb-ruby-picture-heavy.8713/

This is how it looked when we made the deal:

IMG_3951.JPG IMG_3952.JPG IMG_3953.JPG

It came with little history besides a local school teacher owning it for some time. Besides the years of crud that had accumulated it was in remarkable shape.
After it was cleaned up initially:
IMG_3964.JPG
IMG_3966.JPG IMG_3967.JPG
Pulled off the stupid side steps and chrome trim:
IMG_3969.JPG IMG_3971.JPG
IMG_4032.JPG IMG_4035.JPG IMG_4047.JPG IMG_4049.JPG IMG_4106.JPG IMG_4105.JPG IMG_4113.JPG IMG_4120.JPG IMG_4123.JPG IMG_4124.JPG IMG_4130.JPG IMG_4129.JPG IMG_4131.JPG IMG_4128.JPG IMG_4132.JPG
 

Attachments

alaskan.lad

Rank V
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,721
Palmer, Alaska
First Name
Gabe
Last Name
Hurt
Member #

6503

If you're planning on going to the 3.4 down road what you're spending on the 3.slow will go a long way towards the 3.4 swap. Take that for what its worth as ymmv. The new runner looks like its shaping up nicely though
Thanks! The guy I bought the rig from had a huge amount of new motor parts that he threw into the deal, I only have about 500 into the motor. Planning on reselling running when it comes time for the swap, should be able to get that 500 plus another 3-5oo to offset a 3.4 swap. wouldn’t have gone with the 3.0 if we didn’t have the amount of parts available already, it’s a big chunk.
 

darthyota

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

Ah well then thats kind of a different story haha. Thats not so bad then as I've heard people spend like $5000 to rebuild a 3.slow with a few upgrades here and there only to make a whopping 50hp more then stock and then still not be happy with the power it makes.
 

alaskan.lad

Rank V
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,721
Palmer, Alaska
First Name
Gabe
Last Name
Hurt
Member #

6503

Can't believe how bad the valves looked and how well they cleaned up! Freshened up engines are a beautiful thing. Also, you can see the dual oil filter set up on the engine, looking forward to some extra filtration to extend the internals.
IMG_0786.jpeg IMG_0787.jpeg IMG_0788.jpeg IMG_0789.jpeg IMG_0792.jpeg IMG_0791.jpeg IMG_0776.jpeg IMG_0775.jpeg
 

4wheelspulling

Rank VI
Launch Member

Member III

3,065
Chelan, WA.
First Name
Vance
Last Name
Myers
Member #

8452

I have to say, you have everything looking good. The 3.0L is not Toyota's best motor, but I don't think any of Toyota's motors were complete duds! If you fix the known problems on the 3.0L , should run and last with the best of them! Benz.
 

alaskan.lad

Rank V
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,721
Palmer, Alaska
First Name
Gabe
Last Name
Hurt
Member #

6503

how did you get dual filters on the block?
The mounting surface under the oil cooler is exactly the same as the oil filter. Save a filter bung from an old block and screw it in, tap and plug the line coming off the base of the water pump and good to go. Another hole above the filter on the side of the block gets a plug as well.
 

alaskan.lad

Rank V
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,721
Palmer, Alaska
First Name
Gabe
Last Name
Hurt
Member #

6503

I have to say, you have everything looking good. The 3.0L is not Toyota's best motor, but I don't think any of Toyota's motors were complete duds! If you fix the known problems on the 3.0L , should run and last with the best of them! Benz.
Thanks Benz. Here’s hoping. Should get enough out of it to make it to a 3.4 swap, but coming off a 22re and 4.10’s to some more hp, tourqe, and a lower gear ratio.. this motor might stick around for awhile.
 

alaskan.lad

Rank V
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,721
Palmer, Alaska
First Name
Gabe
Last Name
Hurt
Member #

6503

Well, its been a little bit so time for a quick update. The build wrapped up a few weeks ago, fighting the dreaded 52 engine code (knock sensor) which basically throws the engine into limp mode, killing performance and mileage. Intermittent, but there. So back into the shop to figure out the source of that. But without the code, the truck runs phenomenal, def. more power than the 22re, and smoother. Super happy with the 33x10.5 k02's, even with an open diff in the rear I have had no issues with icy starts and obnoxious wheel spin. After coming out of the pickup, the cab of the runner is super roomy, and quiet! The cat delete lets loose a nice rumble at idle but quiets out when you get on the gas. The new KYB shocks give a nice responsive ride, and the rear Moog springs help things out too. Adjusted the torsions to a 1/2 inch lower than the front, and it should handle the weight of camping gear nicely and still give an even ride. No really great pictures yet, but ill post up what I have. More pictures to come when shes road ready.
IMG_4268.JPG IMG_0850.jpeg IMG_4271.JPEG IMG_4279.JPG IMG_4281.JPG IMG_4284.JPG IMG_4287.JPG IMG_4296.JPG IMG_4320.JPG IMG_4321.JPG IMG_4286.JPG IMG_4333.JPG IMG_4335.JPG IMG_4322.JPG
 

Attachments

alaskan.lad

Rank V
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,721
Palmer, Alaska
First Name
Gabe
Last Name
Hurt
Member #

6503

Still running some tweaks on everything. Things needed addressing:
change the fuel filter (we didn't do this and I think it may have something to do with lack of performance and mild hesitation)
new pads and drivers caliper
diagnose the knock sensor, did a relocate onto the intake manifold but I think the sending wire has a break and is causing 52 code
heater control light fix
drivers courtesy light fix
mystery oil leaks
possibly new o2 sensor (doner motor had HG issues and possibly fouled the sensor, no light)
possibly new TPS sensor (once again maybe not)

I had a real bad idle and upon inspection, we forgot to put the hose on the PCV valve (this solved a lot of the original performance issues)
Did the first oil change at 300 miles, probably do another one at 1000 then let her go for awhile. Went to the Toyota dealership and picked up the last blank key they had on the shelf but they couldn't cut it because they are phasing out the older vehicle programs on their machine. Got the master code and had a local keysmith cut it, plus I got the test key from there so I have three keys. The k02s are awesome, I have zero complaints with the tread, though I might have bitten off too much with the size. I am contemplating going down to 31x10.5x15 Toyo Mts come summer on OEM SR5 rims, I just have a soft spot for those rims and happen to have a set that came with the runner, plus I have a set of gold-lettered Toyota hubcaps for those rims and that is reason enough.

Some fresh pictures with the old ride for reference, shes officially off the insurance and going to her new home today or tomorrow.
(30x9.5x15, no front lift, rear helper springs, Bilstein stock height shocks VS. 33x10.5x15, front 1.5" BJ spacers/diff drop rear 1.5" spring spacer, new stock height Moog springs, front KYB +2 shocks, rear KYB stock height shocks with TG perch relocate 2 3/4" higher). Fender height on goldy is about 1" higher.

I'll try to break out the nice camera and take some more shots of the interior and motor in a few days. Thanks for reading ya'll, happy trails for you in the new year!
fullsizeoutput_1178.jpeg IMG_4417.JPG IMG_4418.JPG IMG_4424.JPG IMG_4426.JPG IMG_4428.JPG IMG_4429.JPG IMG_4430.JPG IMG_4433.JPG IMG_4435.JPG IMG_4437.JPG IMG_4440.JPG IMG_4438.JPG
 

Attachments

alaskan.lad

Rank V
Launch Member

Enthusiast III

1,721
Palmer, Alaska
First Name
Gabe
Last Name
Hurt
Member #

6503

Fuel filter swapped out for a Napa brand, the filter looked to be OEM but was stamped with a big 98 so I am assuming maybe it was changed then. Either way after 20 years she was probably due for a fresh one. Also new Denso o2 sensor, and new (used) ignition coil module. Between those three things, I cleared all the codes that were coming up sporadically, and finally got the power band to a place where it wasn't doggy and cutting out under any type of normal acceleration. Filled up the tank and advanced the timing to between 11-13 degrees, and that woke the motor up! Really thrilled with the way it heads through the gears, not fast by any means, but steady acceleration through all the gears which is really the only thing I wanted.

Snowed 3+ inches today so I got a chance to drop it into 4x4, the ko2's that were great in 2x4 came to life. No issues and the motor was able to turn all four wheels nicely without needing to rev super high to shift. About 2650-2800 seems ideal. Last little bit of plastic I needed to trim in the passenger front wheel well has eliminated any rubbing.

Tentatively close to being able to say I trust it, need to put a few thousand on it and see how everything settles in.

Things that are minor that are bugging me but not a big deal:

4x4 light doesn't come on when engaged (I heard somewhere I think that deleting the ADD system has something to do with this)
Heater control lightbulb out (not a big deal because I have the cluster memorized at this point and don't need the extra light)
Courtesy door bulb is out (changed the bulb, didn't solve it, guessing it is in the harness inside the door card)

Starting to work on a build list for the body, just gonna leave things here so I have a record of them somewhere:

4x4 labs rear bumper (with no attachments)
ARB bull bar front bumper
Rocky road super sliders
Safari snorkel with dust collector
x5 31x10.5x15 Toyo MT's on SR5 aluminum rims
Detroit true trac (rear)
Total chaos caddy idler arm

Maintenance:
All 4 wheel bearings
Matsuba u-joints X3
Pinion kit for Detroit install

Camping:
Leaning towards the Tepui Autana Ruggedized Sky model in expedition orange
Tepui luxury mattress, double boot bag, Autana weather hood

I like Tepui because there are a few dealers up here in Alaska for them, and can possibly purchase through REI and utilize the membership bonuses + free shipping

I have the Yakima round bar system in place now on the OEM tracks, but with the tent it would be pretty high off the top of the truck, so looking at Off-road unlimited defender factory roof mounts with a custom aluminum frame the dimensions of the tent mounts to keep things low, also maybe tied in with the existing Yakima racks above the doors for some sort of a basket/rack to be able to utilize that storage space as well.
 

darthyota

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

For whats its worth I would go with the Yukon grizzly locker over the Detroit true trac as they are a little more cost effective and dont seem to unload as violently or as often as the true track. If the u-joints are for your driveshafts then spend the little bit extra and get the toyota ones as they are better sealed and longer lasting then any of the aftermarket options.
 
  • Like
Reactions: alaskan.lad