2018 GMC Canyon MTB/Overland/Adventure Rig

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Pathfinder I

JC, any chance you are experiencing the "transmission wobble" that I keep reading about? Apparently there's something up with the torque converters in these trucks and GM has been chasing a solution for a while.

Good to hear those coils are working well. I was looking at them at 4wheelparts the other day and drooling a bit at some of the specs.
 
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JCWages

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Pathfinder I

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JC, any chance you are experiencing the "transmission wobble" that I keep reading about? Apparently there's something up with the torque converters in these trucks and GM has been chasing a solution for a while.

Good to hear those coils are working well. I was looking at them at 4wheelparts the other day and drooling a bit at some of the specs.
Nah. From the way it's been described the shudder is MUCH more pronounced. Like running over rumble strips and harsh.

Mine feels like a wheel that is out of control and kinda bouncing around. It's mild though.
 
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I just noticed the winch mount where did that come from? Ive only seen 3 different styles of winch mount that replace the plastic front skid.
 

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I took the long route to Bowman Lake this morning for a quick fish and test out the King coilovers off-road.

With the tires aired down to 20psi the new suspension felt amazing on the washboard roads and over dips and holes. When the road turned to 100% rock and large cobble the ride got more bumpy but it was never harsh. I didn't feel fatigued by the end of the trip at all. With the Eibach kit up front and Icon 2.0s in the rear the entire trip felt harsh. The only time it ever felt remotely good on the old suspension was when I kept my speed at 30mph+ on the washboard sections.

On the street the Kings are nice but not $1,500 worth compared to the Eibachs. But off-road they are worth every penny. The ride was so comfortable and controlled. The rear was still a little harsh at times but at speed the Icons did their job. Eventually I'll replace them with Kings but for now they work and are loads better than stock.





And for the locals, yes, the washout section is dry and not too trashed yet. There are ledges forming on the other side (behind me) though. I imagine you'll need a good approach angle to make it up the Bowman Lake side before long.


Ohh and as soon as I got to my favorite fishing spot I realized I had left all of the Powerbait at home in a bearproof container after our trip to Canada.....
 
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Pathfinder I

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Went back up to Bowman Lake yesterday, with bait this time!

I took the shorter route through the washed out bridge on Bowman Lake Rd. I made it up the steeper section without even a hint of wheel slip but when I got to the top 2 fellows in a Ford F250 were stopped in the road and trying to help spot for me. I wasn't sure if they were going to move any time soon so I pulled to the side and talked to them for a minute. When I went to go around them I forgot about the 3 foot tall boulder on my passenger side...... Scraaaaaaaaaape!!!



The Tyger steps saved the body panels but the poor outer step bar is no longer round. They did a good job and protected the truck although that is not their intended purpose. The bar thickness is pretty thin apparently. I'll be in the market for some heady duty slider steps soon. :)

 
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Looks to me like they did their job, my actual steps have taken quite a few hits with some paint chipped of and a few deep dents. Ive been looking into sliders for a while for the colorado but unless you build yourself and attach to the frame they really arent any better. all the sliders for the colorado/canyon i can find attach to the body just like the steps do.
 
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Looks to me like they did their job, my actual steps have taken quite a few hits with some paint chipped of and a few deep dents. Ive been looking into sliders for a while for the colorado but unless you build yourself and attach to the frame they really arent any better. all the sliders for the colorado/canyon i can find attach to the body just like the steps do.
For sure and I agree although SOS Concepts and Overland Explorers make frame only sliders and Rocky Roads make a set that do frame and body together (not recommended).
 

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For sure and I agree although SOS Concepts and Overland Explorers make frame only sliders and Rocky Roads make a set that do frame and body together (not recommended).
Once i finally give in and get a hydraulic pipe bender i will be doing a tube bumper, sliders and rear bumper/rear slider tubes. Till then my front hitch mount and n fab steps will have to deal with the abuse. I try to keep clear of big rocks but i have been high centerd on a hill due to the gap between the steps if i had sliders it wouldnt have sucked so bad so they are definately on the to do soon list.
 
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I installed new rear rotors to see if that would stop my brake squeak issue. I doubt it will help but for $50 it's worth a shot. Install took maybe 30min. Very simple.

I also installed a set of Wulf 2"-3" lift shackles and removed my AAL. I won't be loading down the bed as heavy as I have been and I wanted to see if the rear rode softer without the AAL. It does..... So I bought the lift shackles to restore the lift I had with the AAL. Except there are not pictures of the shackles installed anywhere on the web and the instructions amount to handful of sentences on a sheet of paper, no pictures.

So I did my best and installed them backwards and maybe upside down. *shrug*

There are only a couple of ways they seem to fit without the cross brace hitting the frame when they pivot. I took photos before realizing they were backwards. :) I removed the shackles and reinstalled so the H-beam is now facing the tires. If I decide that 2" of lift from the shackles is enough I can cut the bottom eye off to make it look cleaner. Or I could use the full 3" and just remove the lift block but I'm not sure what that will do to my pinion angle. Hmmm

Powerstop coated rotors


Wulf shackles installed backwards. :) I flipped them around after taking the picture. I had to cut back my exhaust tip as well. It was on my to do list anyway.
 
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I installed new rear rotors to see if that would stop my brake squeak issue. I doubt it will help but for $50 it's worth a shot. Install took maybe 30min. Very simple.

I also installed a set of Wulf 2"-3" lift shackles and removed my AAL. I won't be loading down the bed as heavy as I have been and I wanted to see if the rear rode softer without the AAL. It does..... So I bought the lift shackles to restore the lift I had with the AAL. Except there are not pictures of the shackles installed anywhere on the web and the instructions amount to handful of sentences on a sheet of paper, no pictures.

So I did my best and installed them backwards and maybe upside down. *shrug*

There are only a couple of ways they seem to fit without the cross brace hitting the frame when they pivot. I took photos before realizing they were backwards. :) If I decide that 2" of lift from the shackles is enough I can cut the bottom eye off to make it look cleaner. Or I could use the full 3" and just remove the lift block but I'm not sure what that will do to my pinion angle. Hmmm

Powerstop coated rotors


Wulf shackles installed backwards. :) I had to cut back my exhaust tip as well. It was on my to do list anyway.
Yes they are upside down, i did mine the same way but didnt have to do anything to the exhaust tip. I still need to flip mine around but it dont make much difference.
 
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Correct myself yours are upside down and backwards mine are pointing the right way for articulation but upside down. The way the h beam is pointed on yours it will catch on the frame when the suspension flexes. Having said that i ran mine exactly like you for over a year it hasnt limited how much i can haul i have no lift block and i run em at 3inch.15629292920841971317550.jpg
 
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Correct myself yours are upside down and backwards mine are pointing the right way for articulation but upside down. The way the h beam is pointed on yours it will catch on the frame when the suspension flexes. Having said that i ran mine exactly like you for over a year it hasnt limited how much i can haul i have no lift block and i run em at 3inch.
Thanks a TON! I tried putting them on like yours are pictured and I was having trouble getting them in place so I figured I was doing it wrong.

The H beams are currently facing the tires now unlike the photo in my post. I had flipped them around after noticing how close the H beam was to touching the frame. :) Maybe after work I'll try flipping the entire unit so the extra holes are above the frame.
 

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I dont think it really matters if the double holes are on top or bottom as long as the h beam is in the right direction, im keeping mine in the position in pic just for ease of adjustability and as you probably already know they are a pain to mess with. I have the same adjustable type shackles in my ranger also in same position
 
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I dont think it really matters if the double holes are on top or bottom as long as the h beam is in the right direction, im keeping mine in the position in pic just for ease of adjustability and as you probably already know they are a pain to mess with. I have the same adjustable type shackles in my ranger also in same position
If I was using the 3" holes I'd leave them as is but if I stick with the 2" holes then the extra length is an eye sore. No problems with pinion angle on your rig?
 

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Fyi When putting em on its alot easier to leave the wheels on and use the bottle jack in between the frame and the leafs over the axle to get the shackles adjusted
 

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Nope pinion angle looks the same i dont think that is a worry til we go over 3 inches. I had to do a differential drop on the front to get my cv joints at the stock angle again after 3" lift. Your angle will probably be a little more extreme with the lift block on too. Id remove that and run the shackles at 3.
 
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Ive found 3" front and back is the sweet spot for colorado/canyon you can fit 33" tires with no or very little rub depending on tire brand. Any taller and you need $$$$ and a refresher on geometry class.
 
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