What Did You Do With Your Rig Today?

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Gone_xtrkn

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Granite Ridge Overland said:
Thanks! Have you thought about putting a cargo rack up top? I have my awning mounted to the side of my safari rack!
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I have considered it. I usually leave the top slick until the week of an overnight trip when I mount the RTT. I like the FrontRunner rack because their awning mount is level with the side of the platform but the rack itself is a little heavy to be kept empty on the car 75% of the time. I’d like to fabricate some new awning mounts that attach to the T-slots on both the top and bottom of the crossbars to get a similar fit. That would raise the awning the extra inch or two that I need to it just right. Having ready-made mounts so I don’t need to rig my own is definitely an argument in favor of the rack, though.
 
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PNWInfernoPro

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USStrongman said:
I would seriously consider security nuts on those lights. Those will disappear in a heartbeat in the wrong place. I use these for my IPF's, but I prk outside year round in a downtown. No issues yet.

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They have them already. Always use security nuts and locks on everything. I live in and around Seattle. [emoji6]
 
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Michael

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M Rose

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I worked on my Auxiliary power distribution box for my lights, and a few other accessories I will be adding down the road. This is box 1 of three... about 75% complete.

this is an experiment, so not sure how it’s going to turn out once done.

I used the fallowing parts:

3- Mictuning 12 slot relay box

15- Bosch 5 pin relays

1 assorted ACT Fuse kit

3- 3’ Cat6 Ethernet PatchCable

3- 10’ Cat6 Ethernet PatchCable

12- Cat6 female to female connectors

I still need 8 gauge primary wire in red and black, 12 gauge primary wire in various colors, 2 buss bars, three 6 pin connectors, and a few other miscellaneous wiring parts.

I started off by cutting the 3’ Cat6 cables in half, I then measured out two times the length of the fuse box and stripped off that much shielding. I then separated the 8 wire into 4 pairs of wires. I stripped the insulation back to form larger wires For soldering the female spade terminals supplied with the fuse box.

98DEE85F-CBB8-498B-958A-953B7F114D64.jpeg
Next I had some 16 Gauge wire laying around, so I doubled it up and days chained the hot side of the relays together in series. I then did the same for the hot side of the relay coils as well. Then I installed it all together.

4CE3CF32-5250-4C6D-9C6B-D5C9EB2991D1.jpeg

The other half of the Cat6 cable will be used to supply a Ground from the switch panel. tomorrow’s project. The switch panel will be connected via the 10’ Cat6 Cable and the double female connectors. I will be running a dedicated ground wire and power wire to the switch panel inputs.
 
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USStrongman

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FDear said:
They have them already. Always use security nuts and locks on everything. I live in and around Seattle. [emoji6]
Click to expand...
Seattle is home for me. Went to school in Kent and UW. Left in 2001. Brother in Buckley. Sister in Ballard. I miss it terribly, but know it has changed dramatically since I left. Lived in Renton (Fairwood), Tacoma (Stadium District), Alki (Lighthouse), Issaquah (downtown). I miss the NW.
 
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USStrongman

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diabetiktaco

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Boort said:
@diabetiktaco


I'd like to know more about this setup. Do you have any details on the mounts used and how it was wired up?

Boort
Click to expand...
So I actually just re did the mounts because I realized I was a little backwards. I used my frontrunner rack and drilled out the mounting tabs they supplied so I can fit the proper bolt for the rack. That's all secure now.

I have to order this:
www.solartechdirect.com

Zamp Solar 15 Amp Obsidian Integration Kit

Complete your off-grid solar setup by connecting your panel to your battery with one of our easy-to-install Integration Kits (minimal tools required). This 15-AMP digital charge controller can handle systems up to 270 watts and is compatible with Lithium and Lead-Acid Batteries. Kit Includes...
www.solartechdirect.com www.solartechdirect.com

Once I do I'll take everything out of the box and figure out what's next. My end result should be the control panel mounted in the bed of the truck w/ the panel running directly to the battery. The solar controller will trickle charge the battery when parked and shut the charge off when full. If I'm parked out of the sun, I also have a portable Zamp 90W panel I can alligator clip to the battery. Sorry, not very helpful. I usually buy stuff and figure out how to make it work when it shows up
 
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Wallygator

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diabetiktaco said:
So I actually just re did the mounts because I realized I was a little backwards. I used my frontrunner rack and drilled out the mounting tabs they supplied so I can fit the proper bolt for the rack. That's all secure now.

I have to order this:
www.solartechdirect.com

Zamp Solar 15 Amp Obsidian Integration Kit

Complete your off-grid solar setup by connecting your panel to your battery with one of our easy-to-install Integration Kits (minimal tools required). This 15-AMP digital charge controller can handle systems up to 270 watts and is compatible with Lithium and Lead-Acid Batteries. Kit Includes...
www.solartechdirect.com www.solartechdirect.com

Once I do I'll take everything out of the box and figure out what's next. My end result should be the control panel mounted in the bed of the truck w/ the panel running directly to the battery. The solar controller will trickle charge the battery when parked and shut the charge off when full. If I'm parked out of the sun, I also have a portable Zamp 90W panel I can alligator clip to the battery. Sorry, not very helpful. I usually buy stuff and figure out how to make it work when it shows up
Click to expand...
That solar panel is very nice but is there a reason/reasons it is almost $400 more than a comparable Renogy panel? That's a lot of cheddar.
 
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