OB Approved Overland Safety: Fire Extinguishers

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Batmango66

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I have always found it kind of odd that with all the safety equipment that automakers are required to put on vehicles these days that, a fire ext. isn't part of those requirements. I know the argument from manufacturers would be something like "we don't want to scare people into thinking our vehicles are susceptible to fires". Truth of the matter, anything with electricity or gas is susceptible to a degree.


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Waino

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I've been considering one for my 4Runner, but I just couldn't get my head around why I need one in a modern vehicle. Then last week, I was having coffee with someone at any outside table at a busy intersection. People start yelling that a car is on fire. Sure enough, you can see flames underneath the front radiator area. I run into the coffee shop, grab their extinguisher and and put the fire out. As another poster experienced, the car had just been in for service! The driver was grateful, but I think the fire department was a little bummed when they arrived ;)

I'm now doing my research for the right setup for my truck. I realize that anything can happen, and the odds go up the more accessories you add, and the harder you push it.
 
This might be a good place to mention a recall currently underway for Kidde brand fire extinguishers (very popular brand) The models in question have plastic handles and nozzles but might fail when you need them. Details can be found on their site (I can't post links currently). I have two replacements on the way; one for my home and the other in my trailer.

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TnWalrus

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There are a couple of important points you need to know about fire and fire extinguishers. Dry powder extinguishers do not remove heat from a fire. If you have some type of flammable liquid fire in the engine compartment, and you discharge an extinguisher, it will put out the fire, but it does not remove fuel vapor, oxygen, or heat, so as soon as the fuel touches a hot metal part it will rekindle. For electrical fires, the fastest way to extinguish them is to remove the power source. That means disconnecting the battery. Dry powder can cause major damage to electrical and electronic equipment, so if you can put out the electrical fire by disconnecting the battery you are way better off. Finally, dry powder extinguishers need to be routinely serviced. The powder sits in the bottom of the extinguisher and gets packed down by the vibrations of the vehicle. Once a month you need to take the extinguisher out, turn it on its side, beat it with a rubber mallet, then rock it back and forth several times. That breaks up the powder so that it will flow properly when discharged.
 
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Overland USA

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The next piece of your safety kit should be a quality fire extinguisher. No matter the age of your vehicle, this should be a standard piece of equipment in every overland rig.

I'm going to keep this article short and to the point so let's get started...

Selection

Select a fire extinguisher based on your anticipated needs. A unit that is rated for B & C fires should be a minimum criteria for a vehicle unit. However, if you live in a forest fire potential area you might consider a A-B-C unit since the B & C only units aren't as effective on brush fires. (Note: Stopping or parking in tall grass can start a fire due to the intense heat in your catalytic converter.)

Here are is a list of the different classes and what they're used for:

  • Class A extinguishers are for ordinary combustible materials such as paper, wood, cardboard, and most plastics. The numerical rating on these types of extinguishers indicates the amount of water it holds and the amount of fire it can extinguish. Geometric symbol (green triangle)
  • Class B fires involve flammable or combustible liquids such as gasoline, kerosene, grease and oil. The numerical rating for class B extinguishers indicates the approximate number of square feet of fire it can extinguish. Geometric symbol (red square)
  • Class C fires involve electrical equipment, such as appliances, wiring, circuit breakers and outlets. Never use water to extinguish class C fires - the risk of electrical shock is far too great! Class C extinguishers do not have a numerical rating. The C classification means the extinguishing agent is non-conductive. Geometric symbol (blue circle)
  • Class D fire extinguishers are commonly found in a chemical laboratory. They are for fires that involve combustible metals, such as magnesium, titanium, potassium and sodium. These types of extinguishers also have no numerical rating, nor are they given a multi-purpose rating - they are designed for class D fires only. Geometric symbol (Yellow Decagon)
  • Class K fire extinguishers are for fires that involve cooking oils, trans-fats, or fats in cooking appliances and are typically found in restaurant and cafeteria kitchens. Geometric symbol (black hexagon)
Composition

The type of agent within the unit may be something to consider if you want to minimize clean-up and potential damage to other components.

Excerpt from: http://www.fire-extinguisher101.com/

"Water extinguishers or APW extinguishers (air-pressurized water) are suitable for class A fires only. Never use a water extinguisher on grease fires, electrical fires or class D fires - the flames will spread and make the fire bigger! Water extinguishers are filled with water and are typically pressurized with air. Again - water extinguishers can be very dangerous in the wrong type of situation. Only fight the fire if you're certain it contains ordinary combustible materials only.
Dry chemical extinguishers come in a variety of types and are suitable for a combination of class A, B and C fires. These are filled with foam or powder and pressurized with nitrogen.BC - This is the regular type of dry chemical extinguisher. It is filled with sodium bicarbonate or potassium bicarbonate. The BC variety leaves a mildly corrosive residue which must be cleaned immediately to prevent any damage to materials.
ABC - This is the multipurpose dry chemical extinguisher. The ABC type is filled with monoammonium phosphate, a yellow powder that leaves a sticky residue that may be damaging to electrical appliances such as a computer."

Mounting

A 2.5 pound metal cylinder running free in your luggage compartment or back seat is recipe for potential vehicle damage or personal injury in the event of a collision or rollover. Strap that puppy down. This will not only keep you safe, but ensure you know where it is when you need it most.
Also, ensure you mount it in an accessible location that won't be covered up when your rig is loaded up like the Beverly Hillbillies.


Extinguishing a Car Fire

1) Stop the vehicle and PUT IT IN PARK. It's easy to forget this step in an emergency. The last thing you need is a fireball rolling away from you while you're trying to dig out your extinguisher.

2) Get the passengers out of the vehicle, especially if they're kids. A few seconds hesitation trying to fight the fire before this step, could be a step in the wrong direction with tragic results. I know this goes against instinct but priorities are people, not vehicles. Call 911 at this point if possible.

3) Pull the pin on the extinguisher. Sounds silly, right? You would be surprised what you will forget in a rush. Best to have it in your mind now to help prepare yourself mentally.

4) If the fire is under the hood, pop the latch, but do not open it. Spray the extinguisher through the crack below the hood before attempting to open it all the way. A concealed fire in the engine compartment may be having trouble breathing if there is a lot of smoke. Opening the hood first could cause it to flare.

5) Always aim the extinguisher at the base of the fire. This might be difficult to locate in a tangle of components.

First, how NOT to extinguish a car fire:

Good discussion on car fire extinguishers:

Suggestions


2.5 lb ABC Dry Agent Unit $60 (I own this one)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/htr-mx250r/overview/


2.5 lb B & C Halotron Unit $135
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/htr-hg250r/overview/

As always, I'm open to questions or comments on this topic.
This was the best refresher I've had since firefighting school in the Navy! Very succinct and informative! Great job.
 
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Mike W

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A small update/bump to this thread. I was reviewing what I had for safety equipment, I have a plastic handle valve ABC extinguisher in the back, but I want to have something mounted near my driving position in the cab as well as at the back near the cargo/tailgate area.

For dry chem type ... I have been reading that the 'A' type might not be a good idea for vehicles as it can corrode metal/connectors/electronics and when it gets hot it basically is impossible to remove the mess. Using 'A' type in an engine bay with lots of wire and connectors could actually cause MORE damage than a localized fire alone.

The other 'BC' dry chem seem appropriate but are not always as suited as the Purple K (BC) type.

I went with Purple K over an ABC or standard BC dry chem. It's the most effective of the 3 on a liquid fueled fire (and less corrosive to electronics than ABC dry chem) . I also wanted metal hardware, since I seem to always end up breaking the plastic ones.

Purple-K, also known as PKP, is a dry-chemical fire suppression agent used in some dry chemical fire extinguishers.[1] It is the second most effective dry chemical in fighting class B (flammable liquid) fires after Monnex (potassium allophanate), and can be used against some energized electrical equipment fires (USA class C fires). It has about 4–5 times more effectiveness against class B fires than carbon dioxide, and more than twice that of sodium bicarbonate.
I ordered two sizes and I will find a spot for both.

Amerex B410T, 2.5lb Purple K Chemical Class B C Fire Extinguisher

Amerex B479T, 5lb Purple K Chemical Class B C Fire Extinguisher

They both come with metal brackets. I think one might go on the front handle of my ARB fridge, which is center 2nd row, and I can grab it from my driver seat pretty easily. And the other, mounted up high on my cargo barrier where it wont be blocked by a fully loaded vehicle. I also have a tiny little BC extinguisher which I could put on the outside, like in the spare wheel on the tire carrier. Might be smart for when cooking on my tailgate or something.

I've had friends who have burned down vehicles, so I am a bit freaked out by that possibility.
 

Cam_Cam_Tech

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And where did you mount it? And what did you use to attach it? Curious Toyota owners want to know...:sunglasses:
For my set up I have it mount it on the roof rack I have. And they are made so you use good hose clamps to attach to any size tube/bar.


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IRWaller

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I need to look at different mounting brackets, but this works for now.



I consider this a must have. If not for myself, then to help some one else.
This looks like one of the Extinguishers that Kidde recalled!! They replace it for free...
 

IRWaller

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I need to look at different mounting brackets, but this works for now.



I consider this a must have. If not for myself, then to help some one else.
This looks like one of the Kidde extinguishers that was recalled! Kidde is replacing them for FREE!
 

Wil3yCoyote

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I have a fire extinguisher for my 2001 Toyota Tacoma however I need a better spot for it. It currently just sits behind the seat and occasionally rolls around. Anyone know of some universal mounts that use preexisting bolts in the cab? If I can
I would prefer to avoid fabricating/drilling holes.
 

HeliSniper

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I know this might seem costly, but if you have never used a fire extinguisher before I would recommend that you buy an extra one. Find a safe place and use it as though you are putting out a fire. Many people have misconceptions about extinguishers and during a fire is not the time to be learning, how long will it last, how wide or narrow is the chemical/gas stream, how powerful in the stream? All these things should be known to the user to actually get the fire under control. I have seem people start to put a fire out and start working the stream right to left overlapping the area only to run out of extinguisher just before the fire is out, then it catches again and is out of control before you know it. When it could have been extinguished had the person moved the stream faster over the area. Just little things like what is the best way for me to hold it can be answered by playing with an extra so you know what to expect and you will feel more confident when approaching the fire to begin with. Just a thought.....
 
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HappyOurOverlanding

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I know this might seem costly if have never used a fire extinguisher before I would recommend that you buy an extra one. Find a safe place and use it as though you are putting out a fire. Many people have misconceptions about extinguishers and during a fire is not the time to be learning, how long will it last, how wide or narrow is the chemical/gas stream, how powerful in the stream? All these things should be known to the user to actually get the fire under control. I have seem people start to put a fire out and start working the stream right to left overlapping the area only to run out of extinguisher just before the fire is out, then it catches again and is out of control befor you know it. When it could have been extinguished had the person moved the stream faster over the area. Just little things like what is the best way for me to hold it and be answered by playing with an extra so you know what to expect and you will fill more confident when approaching the fire to begin with. Just a thought.....
Great thought. It's always good to be knowledgeable and prepared with any equipment that is used, especially that that isn't used often.