Off-Road Ranger I
Is there a table or formula for figuring out the current draw when charging a battery?
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Dual Battery and Solar Panel System Questions
- Thread starter wrmmt
- Start date
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Enthusiast III
I dont think so. Current draw from the charger is dependent on battery capacity and state of charge.
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Off-Road Ranger I
I'm trying to figure worst case draw when charging a discharged 100ah battery
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Enthusiast III
Not sure but each battery manufacturer will have a recommended charge voltage and current requirements. Usually on their spec sheet.
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Enthusiast III
Been away from this project for a little while now, but getting back into it. I think I am going to go the Blue Sea route, have a few fuses already I think I will use, and thinking of the ML-ACR relay. Now trying to get all the wiring figured out. Can anyone with more electrical knowledge comment on this diagram? I just threw it together in a few minutes so its pretty rough, but I am combining several different diagrams into one so I wanted to make sure it will work before diving in... I didn't include the solar panel or the relay controller, those should be pretty easy.
As for wire size, what is the best size to tie all the batteries together, and then to run to the auxiliary fuse block as well? Thanks!
As for wire size, what is the best size to tie all the batteries together, and then to run to the auxiliary fuse block as well? Thanks!
Where would the solar panels and solar regulator/charger go in this setup? For my set up my main battery is a Odyssey PC-2250 and would like to run either an Odyssey group 31 or a LiFePO4 group 31 battery with 2 100 watt solar panels using a Redarc BCDC1225D charger. I also have Blue Sea Systems Safety Hub 150 in combination with one of their 12 circuit negative bus ATO fuse block.Been away from this project for a little while now, but getting back into it. I think I am going to go the Blue Sea route, have a few fuses already I think I will use, and thinking of the ML-ACR relay. Now trying to get all the wiring figured out. Can anyone with more electrical knowledge comment on this diagram? I just threw it together in a few minutes so its pretty rough, but I am combining several different diagrams into one so I wanted to make sure it will work before diving in... I didn't include the solar panel or the relay controller, those should be pretty easy.
As for wire size, what is the best size to tie all the batteries together, and then to run to the auxiliary fuse block as well? Thanks!
Enthusiast III
The solar controller would connect directly to the auxiliary battery. I'm pretty sure no fuse is needed for that connection, I'm planning on just direct wiring it to the battery.
I read a lot about dual battery setups and started pricing parts. Wiring is easy. I play electrician at work and home all the time. I bailed on the plan and just went with an Optima Yellow Top and an Antigravity XP-1. I've never needed to jump it so far and we've parked up to 4 days. It ran the radio and Sirius, the LED tent lights, charged phones, cameras, and the Kindle, etc. Things may be different should we add a 12v refrigerator to our kit, but right now we've simplified functionality, increased reliability, and saved hundreds of dollars.
Enthusiast III
Appreciate all the help and suggestions! While I like the simplicity of running a single battery set up, I am going to go the dual battery/solar panel route. A lot of my local trips involve parking at one campsite for the weekend, sometimes during less than optinal weather, and I want the backup of a second battery to run the fridge and other electronics. I would rather spend a little more time/money now and have the peace of mind later...
That being said, here is the updated diagram including the solar panel. I am planning to use 2/0 wire for all of the connections between the batteries and the ML-ACR (except the negative to the main battery, Blue Sea says 16 AWG for that). The connections to the fuse block will be 4 AWG. I am planning to connect a usb and 12v outlet to the fuse block with 20A fuses and 16 AWG wire. I am also planning to add an inverter in the bed at some point, and maybe one in the cab, but I think those are going to wait until I get things set up more. I am also planning on putting in a cheap dual battery monitor (ala Amazon.com), what size wire/fuses should I use for that? Any other comments, am I doing this correctly?
That being said, here is the updated diagram including the solar panel. I am planning to use 2/0 wire for all of the connections between the batteries and the ML-ACR (except the negative to the main battery, Blue Sea says 16 AWG for that). The connections to the fuse block will be 4 AWG. I am planning to connect a usb and 12v outlet to the fuse block with 20A fuses and 16 AWG wire. I am also planning to add an inverter in the bed at some point, and maybe one in the cab, but I think those are going to wait until I get things set up more. I am also planning on putting in a cheap dual battery monitor (ala Amazon.com), what size wire/fuses should I use for that? Any other comments, am I doing this correctly?
Planning a dual battery setup. Thinking about a fridge. How would it work to use an AC inverter and a small 120v AC fridge instead of an expensive 12v fridge. Other small AC loads would be a bonus. My wife sleeps with a cpap machine.
Doug
Doug
Enthusiast III
Hi Glenn as an option this regulator can also be connected to your phone wireless through an App using WIFI or Bluetooth.
More information here:
WIFI
http://www.epsolarpv.com/en/index.php/Product/pro_content/id/731/am_id/139
Bluetooth
http://www.epsolarpv.com/en/index.php/Product/pro_content/id/727/am_id/139
Enthusiast III
Hi Doug,
I would say the 120v AC fridge through an inverter would use more battery power to run due to the conversion from 12v DC to 120v AC. The compressor chest type car fridges work well for efficiency and the cold doesn't roll out the door like a normal stand up fridge. Also your stuff doesn't fall out when opening the door. Once you can get past the high cost of purchase you'll never go back to an esky (cooler).
With the Cpap machine most of these have the option to purchase a 12v vehicle adapter for travelling.
Enthusiast III
I have a couple of additional questions specific to the solar panel portion of the setup. I have tried to contact Renogy but haven't had any luck, so I thought I would see if anyone here had any information.
First Question: Does it matter how the charge controller is mounted? The manual says to mount it vertically, but that is pretty much impossible to pull off in my truck and it seems that a lot of people are mounting there controllers in box lids and other orientations other than vertical. Is the way it is mounted really that critical. Right now I am planning on mounting it vertical, but at a 90 degree angle from the normal orientation.
I am a little confused on the equalization charge stage. I get what it is conceptually, but I see a lot of problems with it. The manual for the charge controller says that it does equalization charge every 28 days, but during equalization you can't have loads connected to the battery. My problem is how does this work in the real world when you are in the middle of nowhere and need your fridge (or anything else) plugged in. Is this something that I could just turn off and not worry about? I may just be missing something, but I am a little confused here. How do other people work with this?
First Question: Does it matter how the charge controller is mounted? The manual says to mount it vertically, but that is pretty much impossible to pull off in my truck and it seems that a lot of people are mounting there controllers in box lids and other orientations other than vertical. Is the way it is mounted really that critical. Right now I am planning on mounting it vertical, but at a 90 degree angle from the normal orientation.
I am a little confused on the equalization charge stage. I get what it is conceptually, but I see a lot of problems with it. The manual for the charge controller says that it does equalization charge every 28 days, but during equalization you can't have loads connected to the battery. My problem is how does this work in the real world when you are in the middle of nowhere and need your fridge (or anything else) plugged in. Is this something that I could just turn off and not worry about? I may just be missing something, but I am a little confused here. How do other people work with this?
Off-Road Ranger I
I finally invested in a 12v fridge and it has changed the way I camp totally. It's completely worth it.
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Enthusiast III
Hi,
Lead acid batteries are prone to crystallization over time, which is a leading cause of battery failure. Equalization charging only applies to flooded lead acid batteries as the high equalizing charge will cause gassing & bubbling of the electrolytes and you have to replace lost water during this process. Each manufacturer states how often you should carry out a equalization, some state monthly or others several times of the year.
There are some (experts) stating that this should be done at the end of each charge cycle to finish off the chemical process and that the manufacturers don't want you doing to too often so they can sell more batteries
With the solar regulator mounting its more about air flow, generally the back of the regulator will have fins and as heat rises it will dissipate better in the vertical mounted position. I think most person mount them where it best suits the application. Some manufacturers will ask for a photo of the installation if a warranty claim is made. See if you can change the setting in the charge controller to manual or if the charge voltage setting in a sealed lead acid mode is the same as for your battery you can switch to that, refer the battery spec sheet for more information on charge voltage and if equalizing is required.
wrmmt- sorry for the thread drift but fridge's kinda fit in the discussion.
Does anybody use the "thermoelectric" coolers or do I need to stick to the ones with the real compressor.
Doug
Does anybody use the "thermoelectric" coolers or do I need to stick to the ones with the real compressor.
Doug
Enthusiast III
Thanks for the info, that makes sense. Would an Optima Yellow top need equalization? I will look into the solar controller some more and see what I can do, I know I can at least manually select the battery type. Ideally I can just turn off the equalization though.Hi,
Lead acid batteries are prone to crystallization over time, which is a leading cause of battery failure. Equalization charging only applies to flooded lead acid batteries as the high equalizing charge will cause gassing & bubbling of the electrolytes and you have to replace lost water during this process. Each manufacturer states how often you should carry out a equalization, some state monthly or others several times of the year.
There are some (experts) stating that this should be done at the end of each charge cycle to finish off the chemical process and that the manufacturers don't want you doing to too often so they can sell more batteries
With the solar regulator mounting its more about air flow, generally the back of the regulator will have fins and as heat rises it will dissipate better in the vertical mounted position. I think most person mount them where it best suits the application. Some manufacturers will ask for a photo of the installation if a warranty claim is made. See if you can change the setting in the charge controller to manual or if the charge voltage setting in a sealed lead acid mode is the same as for your battery you can switch to that, refer the battery spec sheet for more information on charge voltage and if equalizing is required.
That makes sense about the mounting. I am still working on getting the dual batteries set up, so I have a little time to think about the solar mounting. I will see what kind of orientation and ventilation I can get it mounted in...
Enthusiast III
