Building a home in a 80 series Landcruiser

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Ob1

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So with the bigger tanks (12.5 gal) in very cold weather (20F) our heat exchange can not keep up and bring the water to 140F when driving because of the wind factor. Tank is insulated with 1/4” mini cell foam. Once we stop it tops temperature in 10 minutes while the engine still running. So you want 120k-150k btu if planning to be in cold weather and heating more then 10 gallons.
 

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Thanks. Sounds like this is a go big situation. I'm still strugling with what material to use for my tanks. Polyethylene won't support the temperature range I want, PVC seems temporary but it can handle the heat better. Polypropylene is perfect but hard to find. Metal delivers on all of the specs except cost. Gotta decide fairly soon.
 

Ob1

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Thanks. Sounds like this is a go big situation. I'm still strugling with what material to use for my tanks. Polyethylene won't support the temperature range I want, PVC seems temporary but it can handle the heat better. Polypropylene is perfect but hard to find. Metal delivers on all of the specs except cost. Gotta decide fairly soon.
PVC pipes worked great. I just wanted more efficient use of the space and being round tubes they used only 70% of the volume. We had them for 3 years, 60K miles and they never failed. In fact I think they perform better then stainless.
 

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Got the PDI kit box from AUZ last week. Today just finished installing the intercooler with all the plumbing. Spent most part of the day trying to maneuver the pipes in the engine bay. Suddenly it looks so packed. Still need to install the new grill by LandCruiserGrills.com. Next would be tuning the injector pump.

It never ends...

View attachment 127340View attachment 127341View attachment 127342View attachment 127343View attachment 127344
I'm about 18 kinds of jealous right now.
 
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Ob1

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Spent the weekend in Death Valley with Overland Bound working with NPS to fence the Racetrack so people will not drive over it. Ignorance is one of the flaws of humans.

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Texas Cruiser

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Just received the 125000 btu heat exchanger. Thanks for the feedback on that.

How do you fill the two tanks? How can you tell when they’re full? What psi did you reduce to to pressurize the tanks?
 

Ob1

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So there is a silicon hose that I plug a copper pipe with a hose fitting. You can see the tip of the silicon over the exhaust.

D0851F13-3661-4AB8-8A6E-B4A24374ECF6.jpeg
 

Ob1

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Spent another weekend working with Overland Bound and NPS to finish building a fence around the Racetrack so people will not drive over it. It was organized by @Kent R with a small group of volunteers.

We also rescued a 30 years old tortoise from the highway before being run over. They are in danger and the proper way to remove them, is slowly lift them and walk slowly in the direction they were heading and put them back on the ground carefully a few yards from the road. We saved a life!!!

Love the sunsets and sunrises in the Desert.

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Texas Cruiser

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Just received the 125000 btu heat exchanger. Thanks for the feedback on that.

How do you fill the two tanks? How can you tell when they’re full? What psi did you reduce to to pressurize the tanks?
Thought you might like to see the under hood mount for the heat exchanger. Closer to the heater bypass and more protected I think.137BF7C1-137E-427C-A6CB-6D6B3B953063.jpegore
 
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Ob1

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Looks great. Are you running on the primary circuit the engine coolant?
 

Texas Cruiser

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Looks great. Are you running on the primary circuit the engine coolant?
Previous owner deleted the rear heater so I’m just tapping into the lines that would have run to that. There’s minimal flow through the heat exchanger until the heat is turned on at the dash.
 

Ob1

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That is what I did. It works perfectly except you have to move the knob to red (hot) in order for it to work. On hot days I just open the window.

I had issues getting the 12.5 gallons to 140F last December when drove to Seattle in the big storm. It was 21F outside and with the wind factor while driving, the system would only get to 125F. When stopped, in 10 min it recovered. I added more minicell insulation and have not tested it yet.
 
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Texas Cruiser

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That is what I did. It works perfectly except you have to move the knob to red (hot) in order for it to work. On hot days I just open the window.

I had issues getting the 12.5 gallons to 140F last December when drove to Seattle in the big storm. It was 21F outside and with the wind factor while driving, the system would only get to 125F. When stopped, in 10 min it recovered. I added more minicell insulation and have not tested it yet.
I ended up going with a 15 gallon polyethylene tank and am considering insulating it. I only plan to heat my water to 125F so it may not be necessary. My next decision is where to put the thermocouple. What was your thought process on putting the thermocouple on an inline section of copper pipe? Why not just put one in the tank? Do you happen to have a link to the one you used? How about your temperature display. How did you implement that? Link? The digital temperature gauges I'm finding are pretty bulky so it'll make mounting it on the dash a challenge.
 
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Ob1

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I ended up going with a 15 gallon polyethylene tank and am considering insulating it. I only plan to heat my water to 125F so it may not be necessary. My next decision is where to put the thermocouple. What was your thought process on putting the thermocouple on an inline section of copper pipe? Why not just put one in the tank? Do you happen to have a link to the one you used? How about your temperature display. How did you implement that? Link? The digital temperature gauges I'm finding are pretty bulky so it'll make mounting it on the dash a challenge.
Hey Patric,

is the tank hard shell? How are you pulling the water out?

page 1 and 4 of the blog has details and links to all components including the thermostat. The sensor itself has an extension wire and is attached to the copper pipe the comes out of the tank into the heat exchange as close as you can to the tank. It is attached to the copper pipe with marine grade heat shrink with adhesive inside. The less holes in the tank, the better.
The control unit is on the electrical panel next to a switch that turns the circulating pump. I circled it in red. It’s in a 3D printed box.

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Texas Cruiser

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The Woodlands, TX, USA
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Patrick
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Kimball
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The tank is a hard-sided tank, roto-molded tank. I went back and forth on the key design elements of the system - all of them involved trade-offs and as I get close to finishing I’m still tweaking the design and making changes.

I’m using components from an Australian company called Joolca for some of the plumbing. They have a really nice off grid hot shower solution that uses a propane powered heater. The propane was a non-starter for me due to the amount of fuel it would require but I am using their water pump and shower setup. Link here.

I have a single line going into the tank that I use to fill the tank and to pull water out for the shower. All I have to do is reverse the direction of the water pump, disconnect the input hose and filter and plug in the shower head. It all uses quick connect hose fittings.
 

Ob1

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Ofer
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Bruhis
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KD6UKE
The tank is a hard-sided tank, roto-molded tank. I went back and forth on the key design elements of the system - all of them involved trade-offs and as I get close to finishing I’m still tweaking the design and making changes.

I’m using components from an Australian company called Joolca for some of the plumbing. They have a really nice off grid hot shower solution that uses a propane powered heater. The propane was a non-starter for me due to the amount of fuel it would require but I am using their water pump and shower setup. Link here.

I have a single line going into the tank that I use to fill the tank and to pull water out for the shower. All I have to do is reverse the direction of the water pump, disconnect the input hose and filter and plug in the shower head. It all uses quick connect hose fittings.
And you vent the tank?