2004 WJ Laredo

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I finally got my lift and tires on. Now my spare won’t fit in the tire well. I am looking at building a shelf in the rear like you did. Put stuff I hardly use in the tire well. Put tire on top of tire well and fridge and gear on top of shelf. How much weight do you think the shelf you made added to the rear?
What'd you end up with for a lift and tire size? You might check out https://detoursofmaine.com/ for a hitch solution for the spare unless you want to go with a swingout bumper. It's on the list to get since I think I can better utilize the spare wheel well. The shelf can probably hold 100lbs, but I had about that much on there with gear under it for support. Since I didn't have a support on one side due to the hinge design, it's an obvious weak point. Granted, I overbuilt it minus that support, which I may add in once I get the spare on the back, I didn't do long-term testing without the gear under it. I figured as I use it, I would modify it to better suit my needs. If I didn't overbuild it, I would have had to have better support for it.
 
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What'd you end up with for a lift and tire size? You might check out https://detoursofmaine.com/ for a hitch solution for the spare unless you want to go with a swingout bumper. It's on the list to get since I think I can better utilize the spare wheel well. The shelf can probably hold 100lbs, but I had about that much on there with gear under it for support. Since I didn't have a support on one side due to the hinge design, it's an obvious weak point. Granted, I overbuilt it minus that support, which I may add in once I get the spare on the back, I didn't do long-term testing without the gear under it. I figured as I use it, I would modify it to better suit my needs. If I didn't overbuild it, I would have had to have better support for it.
I did the rough country 4” long arm and 265/70R17 KM2’s. A lot of people dis rough country but it drives like stock and most lifts can’t say that when you get above 3”. I’m not going the receiver route for the spare because I tow a pop up frequently.
 

adventure_is_necessary

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I did the rough country 4” long arm and 265/70R17 KM2’s. A lot of people dis rough country but it drives like stock and most lifts can’t say that when you get above 3”. I’m not going the receiver route for the spare because I tow a pop up frequently.
I think a lot of the qualms with RC could be due to the fact that a lot of people are already driving older rigs with clapped out suspension components and they choose not to replace anything the kit doesn't include. Vehicle manufactures have a ton more experience with the vehicle components (duh), so no aftermarket manufacturer is going to be able to fully replicate the ride quality. Not to mention that lifting a vehicle will put added stress on all of these worn components versus the OEM configuration, which will eventually cause failure. I'm sure you know this, but I have no qualms with RC. I went OEM knowing I'd need HD springs and I didn't want a big lift. I have also come to realize some of my ride quality issues since lifting the rig came from some OEM unicorn pieces like the stock shock bushing sleeves and bolts on the rear being tapered, or needing longer sway bar end links. Now I need to replace worn spring isolators on the rear, and I will probably go ahead and add a trim spacer while it's all apart to compensate for the added weight of my gear.
 
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DanW

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Nice build! I will be stealing a few of your ideas. I am building an 04 Overland that I picked up a few months ago. It is going to be an Overland build but will see a little rougher terrain down here. I worked as a master tech at a Jeep dealer for 14 years. The rough Idle on the 4.7's is usually O2 sensors. I bought this one cheap with fairly low miles because of the rough idle. Replaced all 4 O2 sensors and it idles like new and I am getting 19-21 mpg on strictly highway driving. I replaced the plugs, coils, water pump, and radiator as preventative maintenance. 4.7L's do not like to be overheated. I've put a winch mount on while I had the front bumper off and ordered a warn winch with synthetic rope. I had to loose the factory tow hooks to install the mount but the winch will make up for it.
Sweet! Ours hasn't been running for a bit. It was the starter. She's gtg now. I also changed the transmission fluid and filters. I'm having the power steering fluid drained, any leaky hoses replaced, and then refilled. It also got a new oil pressure sensor and will soon get a new pcv valve.

How much were the O2 sensors? That might be next up. New plugs smoothed the idle quite a bit, but I think there is still room for improvement.

Keep sharing your mods and progress on here!

I forgot to mention that I went over about 1/2 of the underside with Rustoleum Rust Reformer. I'll finish that off, soon, as well. It has surprisingly little corrosion for a rust belt WJ, except for the gas tank skid. I'll treat the nooks/crannies with Fluid Film in the late fall.

We'll Plasti Dip the wheels at some point and will get a couple new pics up.
 

jeepman

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Sweet! Ours hasn't been running for a bit. It was the starter. She's gtg now. I also changed the transmission fluid and filters. I'm having the power steering fluid drained, any leaky hoses replaced, and then refilled. It also got a new oil pressure sensor and will soon get a new pcv valve.

How much were the O2 sensors? That might be next up. New plugs smoothed the idle quite a bit, but I think there is still room for improvement.

Keep sharing your mods and progress on here!

I forgot to mention that I went over about 1/2 of the underside with Rustoleum Rust Reformer. I'll finish that off, soon, as well. It has surprisingly little corrosion for a rust belt WJ, except for the gas tank skid. I'll treat the nooks/crannies with Fluid Film in the late fall.

We'll Plasti Dip the wheels at some point and will get a couple new pics up.
All four O2 sensors were $243 from advance auto parts.
 

adventure_is_necessary

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That's on the list now!
I'd suggest you do what I did to make it easier for removing O2 sensors. I cut a notch out of the closed end to fit the wire through it. Made a WORLD of difference when I had to change mine out before the cats. Plus you can still use the wrench after the fact, although the strength has obviously been reduced.
 

adventure_is_necessary

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Slowly working on a mount for my DIY breather extension mod. This heat has not been conducive to working outside. CAD (cardboard aided design) is helping with fitment of the bracket to mount it to the rig, but I'm sure I'm going to have to suck it up to finish it anytime soon.
 
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This is what I have for my breather extension mod. I toyed around with about 4 or 5 different mounting locations, but this one offers the easiest access and is as far back as I can get it without drilling into the firewall. I initially wanted to not use this spot for a possible future mod of the washer reservoir, but with the bumper and tire combo I plan on ending up with, it shouldn't be an issue. If anything, I'll build a reinforcement plate to keep the tire from contacting the washer bottle.
unnamed (1).jpg



2 pieces of cardboard. The larger is the plate to mount to the vehicle utilizing existing welded bolts, and the other is how I plan on mounting the manifold to the plate. When I cut the sheet metal, it'll all be one piece with bends to accommodate the second piece. The two squares on either end will be a bend to wrap around the ends. The "+" are my drill centers where I will drill out to match the OD of the sintered vents on both ends and the single port on the other side. I might have to shim with washers to get a good tension between the manifold and my mount. I plan on utilizing some rubber between the plate and the vehicle to reduce vibration.
 

DanW

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Time for a WJ update! It has been sitting for a bit due to many other distractions, but we turned our attention back on her over the last week or so. First, it got a new starter, followed by a transmission fluid/filter change. I also had the power steering fluid flushed/filled and leaky hoses replaced. I'm trying to prevent a $1,000 replacement of that fancy hydraulic cooling fan, so this will be a routine thing every few years. It also got a new oil pressure sending unit. It runs like new and is VERY strong. The idle is smooth, but I'm still going to replace those O2 sensors at some point. It is sitting on about 104,300 miles, so it is nice to feel the engine/transmission performing so well. Lots of life left in this baby, for sure. We'll be changing the oil in 1k miles, as the previous owner changed it right before we bought it, so it is still in good shape. We've got some nice Pennzoil Ultra Platinum on deck with a Fram Ultra filter. That should do good cleanup duty, then it will get a steady diet of that or Mobil 1 from here on out. Oh yeah, the diffs are going to be changed soo, too. The rear looks like a little bit of a pain to get to, but we'll figure it out. I may have to jack it way up to get the suspension to droop enough to access the top bolts. It'll get some fresh Valvoline or Napa synthetic gear lube.

Next up will be a tire rotate/balance. We were thinking about JK wheels, but my son likes the 16" wheels that are on it, but they are chewed up with corrosion. Anybody know how much it costs to get a wheel refinished? If around 100 bucks each, he may get that done, one or two at a time. Otherwise, we'll Plasti-Dip them either black or a metallic color. We'll be running these Goodyears awhile. They are new, so why not? He also wants to get a roof rack. We've got front tow hooks, so I'll be painting them red and we'll install them this winter. I also want to put a hitch on it. I know there was once a recall for potential fires from the gas tank in a rear end collision. Jeep recalled them and put hitches on them, which offered more protection. I wonder if they'd still perform that recall? If not, a hitch isn't too expensive. It will cost a little departure angle, but will provide a recovery point for the rear, so it is worth it. Ultimately, I'll ut a new gas tank skid on it, too, as the current one is somewhat rusted. We'll also be installing a Pioneer 7" head unit with Android Auto so he'll have navigation.

Tonight, we gave it a thorough wash and threw a coat of Turtle Wax Ice paste wax on it. This made the previous owner's cheap Mako paint job look pretty good. ONce the wheels are refinished or dipped, it will look great. I think it is also almost ready for its Trail Rated badge!

Anyone know a good value roof rack/basket that would work with these stock roof rails?

Here are some current pics from this evening.



 

adventure_is_necessary

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Time for a WJ update! It has been sitting for a bit due to many other distractions, but we turned our attention back on her over the last week or so. First, it got a new starter, followed by a transmission fluid/filter change. I also had the power steering fluid flushed/filled and leaky hoses replaced. I'm trying to prevent a $1,000 replacement of that fancy hydraulic cooling fan, so this will be a routine thing every few years. It also got a new oil pressure sending unit. It runs like new and is VERY strong. The idle is smooth, but I'm still going to replace those O2 sensors at some point. It is sitting on about 104,300 miles, so it is nice to feel the engine/transmission performing so well. Lots of life left in this baby, for sure. We'll be changing the oil in 1k miles, as the previous owner changed it right before we bought it, so it is still in good shape. We've got some nice Pennzoil Ultra Platinum on deck with a Fram Ultra filter. That should do good cleanup duty, then it will get a steady diet of that or Mobil 1 from here on out. Oh yeah, the diffs are going to be changed soo, too. The rear looks like a little bit of a pain to get to, but we'll figure it out. I may have to jack it way up to get the suspension to droop enough to access the top bolts. It'll get some fresh Valvoline or Napa synthetic gear lube.

Next up will be a tire rotate/balance. We were thinking about JK wheels, but my son likes the 16" wheels that are on it, but they are chewed up with corrosion. Anybody know how much it costs to get a wheel refinished? If around 100 bucks each, he may get that done, one or two at a time. Otherwise, we'll Plasti-Dip them either black or a metallic color. We'll be running these Goodyears awhile. They are new, so why not? He also wants to get a roof rack. We've got front tow hooks, so I'll be painting them red and we'll install them this winter. I also want to put a hitch on it. I know there was once a recall for potential fires from the gas tank in a rear end collision. Jeep recalled them and put hitches on them, which offered more protection. I wonder if they'd still perform that recall? If not, a hitch isn't too expensive. It will cost a little departure angle, but will provide a recovery point for the rear, so it is worth it. Ultimately, I'll ut a new gas tank skid on it, too, as the current one is somewhat rusted. We'll also be installing a Pioneer 7" head unit with Android Auto so he'll have navigation.

Tonight, we gave it a thorough wash and threw a coat of Turtle Wax Ice paste wax on it. This made the previous owner's cheap Mako paint job look pretty good. ONce the wheels are refinished or dipped, it will look great. I think it is also almost ready for its Trail Rated badge!

Anyone know a good value roof rack/basket that would work with these stock roof rails?

Here are some current pics from this evening.



That's a clean WJ! Did you post these on your build thread? Sounds like you're off to a good start on the maintenance. Oil wise, I'd recommend the Mobil1 High mile synthetic with a good quality filter like WIX/NAPA or an STP, which is what I used. The diffs aren't too bad to do on stock height, but that's using a suction pump instead of pulling the cover. I did them when I got the rig and am due to drain them again here soon. Definitely easier on a lifted rig but do-able on stock height. I use Valvoline 75w-140 syn gear oil since Amsoil isn't cheap or easy to come by here. The JK wheels are a good option. I nearly stuck with the stock wheels and just slap on bigger and better tires. Biggest issue I would have ran into is rubbing with the backspacing, so spacers would have been needed. Also, for whatever reason, 16" tires seem to be more expensive. Virtually the same size tire I run now but for a 16" wheel was $30+ a corner. I found a full set of 5 JK wheels for $100 locally and in good shape. Just some food for thought on those. If you choose to keep the stock wheels, you can refinished them at home and shouldn't be too expensive if you have some power tools. ChrisFix on YouTube has a good video on refinishing aluminum wheels. Roof rack wise, I went with a Yakima LoadWarrior as I found one locally for CHEAP. I got the extension for it and repainted it some to have a clean look. I know a lot of people go with either Yakima or Rola for a basket. If I were to do it again, I'd probably just bite the bullet and go for a FrontRunner and not use the stock rails and crossmembers. The stock crossmembers are weak. I try not to overload them as I know they can't hold a lot of weight. While the Yakima works right now on the stock rails, I'm looking forward to getting the FrontRunner kit so I can not ever worry about the weight and so I can run a RTT. I'd almost entertain the idea of building one from some steel and just attach it to the stock rail without the crossmembers, but the idea using an RTT on a proven rack with a modular setup outweighs the cost difference. Jeep still does the recall for the hitch I believe. I got mine done a few years ago. If they use the same kit I got, Jeep will actually cut out a section of the rear bumper and fix a plastic plate over the hole, so you won't lose any departure angle.
 
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DanW

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That's a clean WJ! Did you post these on your build thread? Sounds like you're off to a good start on the maintenance. Oil wise, I'd recommend the Mobil1 High mile synthetic with a good quality filter like WIX/NAPA or an STP, which is what I used. The diffs aren't too bad to do on stock height, but that's using a suction pump instead of pulling the cover. I did them when I got the rig and am due to drain them again here soon. Definitely easier on a lifted rig but do-able on stock height. I use Valvoline 75w-140 syn gear oil since Amsoil isn't cheap or easy to come by here. The JK wheels are a good option. I nearly stuck with the stock wheels and just slap on bigger and better tires. Biggest issue I would have ran into is rubbing with the backspacing, so spacers would have been needed. Also, for whatever reason, 16" tires seem to be more expensive. Virtually the same size tire I run now but for a 16" wheel was $30+ a corner. I found a full set of 5 JK wheels for $100 locally and in good shape. Just some food for thought on those. If you choose to keep the stock wheels, you can refinished them at home and shouldn't be too expensive if you have some power tools. ChrisFix on YouTube has a good video on refinishing aluminum wheels. Roof rack wise, I went with a Yakima LoadWarrior as I found one locally for CHEAP. I got the extension for it and repainted it some to have a clean look. I know a lot of people go with either Yakima or Rola for a basket. If I were to do it again, I'd probably just bite the bullet and go for a FrontRunner and not use the stock rails and crossmembers. The stock crossmembers are weak. I try not to overload them as I know they can't hold a lot of weight. While the Yakima works right now on the stock rails, I'm looking forward to getting the FrontRunner kit so I can not ever worry about the weight and so I can run a RTT. I'd almost entertain the idea of building one from some steel and just attach it to the stock rail without the crossmembers, but the idea using an RTT on a proven rack with a modular setup outweighs the cost difference. Jeep still does the recall for the hitch I believe. I got mine done a few years ago. If they use the same kit I got, Jeep will actually cut out a section of the rear bumper and fix a plastic plate over the hole, so you won't lose any departure angle.
I need to cut and paste it there. I forgot I made that thread, so thanks!

I'm going to pull the cover to be certain of a good sound seal. The top bolts are a bear to reach, so I'll just jack up the rear frame and put some jack stands under there. The axle should drop enough for me to reach them. I'll be using the same Valvoline as you. I've had great service from Valvoline, Mobil 1, and even Supertech full syn. I do like Amsoil's packaging, though, for easy filling.

There are no crossmembers on the roof rails, so either they are missing or were an option that the original owner did not purchase. Thanks for the info on those, I'll be checking them out!

That would be great if Jeep still does it. I'll check with my dealership this week. That would save my son a bit of money. He can put it toward the rack!

Thanks for all the great information! We're having fun with this old WJ, but the real fun will come when we get it out in the wild!

Thanks for all the great info!
 

adventure_is_necessary

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I need to cut and paste it there. I forgot I made that thread, so thanks!

I'm going to pull the cover to be certain of a good sound seal. The top bolts are a bear to reach, so I'll just jack up the rear frame and put some jack stands under there. The axle should drop enough for me to reach them. I'll be using the same Valvoline as you. I've had great service from Valvoline, Mobil 1, and even Supertech full syn. I do like Amsoil's packaging, though, for easy filling.

There are no crossmembers on the roof rails, so either they are missing or were an option that the original owner did not purchase. Thanks for the info on those, I'll be checking them out!

That would be great if Jeep still does it. I'll check with my dealership this week. That would save my son a bit of money. He can put it toward the rack!

Thanks for all the great information! We're having fun with this old WJ, but the real fun will come when we get it out in the wild!

Thanks for all the great info!
Probably a good idea to pull the cover to begin with. That way you can inspect everything, clean it up, clean the cover and repaint, and have a new seal. If I had access to Amsoil, I'd use it for everything. Way better oil over everything else from what I've seen and heard. Valvoline gear oil seems to be the most commonly available one that is still high quality. This is all going off of independent testing results. As for the crossmembers, I had to source mine at the junkyard. Looks like they might have been an option. I don't see why Jeep wouldn't do the recall. Worth looking into regardless. Might be worth doing the gas tank skid shortly after since they share a lot of the same hardware to the frame. Hope it all helps!
 

adventure_is_necessary

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Finished up the breather extension mod. FINALLY! I gave each diff some slack for flexing, but everything is secured with 200lb test zips. OEM vents on the rear diff and trans seem to have been clogged or just rather dirty give a little fluid buildup on the vent and around the barb. Cleaned all of the barbs up before installing the hose. Could not get a clamp on the trans barb due to the location and lack of space. I had to set the rig on jack stands and droop the front axle completely to fit my arm between the floor and driveshaft to get to the trans vent. Rear diff line spans the length of the vehicle and is secured to the fuel and brake lines. Front diff is secured on the driver side LCA via the factory clip. trans and tcase lines are zipped together following existing lines/wires. I wrapped the lines in a heat reflective tape at the spot near the engine block and header to avoid any potential issues. Might be overkill. Might not. At least this project is done and I am pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to do all of this once the mount was made and the supplies were all purchased. For reference, I used almost all of the 25ft spool of 5/16th's fuel line, 7 spring action hose clamps, 4 1/4NPT 5/16" barbs, 3 1/4NPT sintered bronze vents, a 7 port pencil air manifold, about 1/3 of a 12"x12" sheet of kydex, half a package of 200lb test zips, some of the old breather line, and heat reflective tape. I still have enough kydex to build an electrical mount for cleaning and simplifying my lighting, and I have enough vents for 1-2 more to do this, and I have a ton of high quality zips.


unnamed (4).jpgunnamed (3).jpg
 
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adventure_is_necessary

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Forgot to post this thing up a while ago. BROG tool bag is a game changer. I haul nearly the same amount of tools in a smaller, more packable form. The big tool bag was nice but after my trip to AZ for Expo and the Grand Canyon, I realized it was just taking up some unnecessary space, which of course can and is being better utilized now. The old tool bag is still in use as the house tool bag. The BROG tool bag fits perfectly between my platform and the wall of the rig. I do need to cut down the socket rails to fit better and probably reassess what is in the bag, but it works well!
IMG-7192.JPGIMG-7193.JPG
 

adventure_is_necessary

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Sorry for the lack of updates. Been busy with work. I did knock out a couple small projects within the past few weeks. Got the rear suspension sag issue resolved with some new spring isolators (upper and lower), as well adding in a trim spacer on either side of the rear to compensate for the leveling effect of the front spring perches I welded in when I initially leveled the rig. LONG overdue for sure but it's done and rides a bit better. I did clean up any rust I found and shot some paint on it.
Here's a comparison of the new vs old. Id's say they were worn....
FB900DAC-031F-4971-BE02-98B204564BFD.JPG0FEF2FDD-C382-4C8B-B615-B4F7512FC1E2.JPG205B4487-02BB-405E-BD39-8D585B75016C.JPG

Second project was snagging some ActionTrax. USA made and the quality seems to be pretty darn good too. Built a mount out of some scrap metal and $10 at the hardware store. Not sure I like how high up they sit as they tend to act like a sail in the wind...so I will have to re-drill a couple holes to drop them down.
E6B5A6DA-B231-444E-868E-FE5ED8A16B51.JPG
6C7A9E4A-2CF7-4C62-B144-4C02E39F321A.JPG73C7BCC3-43AA-43F2-86A1-8FC8D8E263AC.JPG
I did manage to figure out a way to mount my trasharoo without the spare tire carrier so this will work until I get the spare on the outside of the rig. I might also mount my trax to the spare behind the trasharoo like many seem to do. Food for thought.B8F42A71-6477-487C-B4E4-447DDC93205F.JPG

I did also snag a couple goodies. Some more patches from Lifestyle Overland and Marco's trail cookbook. Didn't get a picture of the cookbook before adding it to my bookshelf, but I think I will add in some of his recipes to both my normal menu at home, as well as on the trail!
E0F00C06-F141-423D-A0B9-376AB4A77780.JPG
 

KPMetrics

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Alas, mine has developed the issue where it thinks the left rear door is always open. Replaced the latch, replaced the door wiring harness. Not fixed yet. There's a bad wire lurking somewhere between that door and home and it keeps killing the battery.

The last 4 days I would have had this out on a trail I've spent troubleshooting the problem.

My time is very limited, I may just switch over to using my '16 F150.

Hell, it's only got 17k miles on it.
 

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Alas, mine has developed the issue where it thinks the left rear door is always open. Replaced the latch, replaced the door wiring harness. Not fixed yet. There's a bad wire lurking somewhere between that door and home and it keeps killing the battery.

The last 4 days I would have had this out on a trail I've spent troubleshooting the problem.

My time is very limited, I may just switch over to using my '16 F150.

Hell, it's only got 17k miles on it.
Did you solder the wire splices? I have heard and experienced a "failure" on any connections other than a good solder. Is it just stating the door is open or can you not lock/unlock or use the window?
 

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There were no splices to do, I swapped then entire wiring harness in the door. So plugged it in to the connector in the door frame and to the related door connections for latch/window/etc.

Windows and locks still works, just thinks the door is open, so the lights stay on and I get the constant notification in the overhead.