2004 Land Rover Discovery adventure build

This is interesting. From Wikipedia:

The 4HP22 transmission can be rendered undriveable when held on P or N setting and too high engine rotation speed is applied for too long, for instance during emissions testing. Examples of situations that could lead to transmission failure include warming up the catalytic converter on petrol engine-powered vehicle with too high RPM, or while measuring amount of smoke on diesel engine-powered vehicle and keeping the throttle full for too long time.[17] The correct procedure would be to stop the engine for at least 90 seconds, do the test (without selecting again D or R, this means without re-pressurizing the gearbox) for no longer than a minute, and if the procedure must be repeated, stop again for at least 90 seconds and repeat. Another issue is the governor valve sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace the autobox. Usual symptoms are failing to shift after 1st gear while the gearbox is still cold, and then failing to kickdown to 1st while at a stop. The governor is located at the end of the gearbox and usually it starts to work again after a cleanup.
 
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jhewitt03 said:
View attachment 79338 miss my disco 1 I will have another disco soon enough long live the disco!!
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There is something about WHITE that makes them sexy as hell. Actually I have never seen one painted any color that I didn't like. Mine is a metallic goldish-tan with black accents and I love it. What all have you done to your rig ?
 
Mark D said:
This is interesting. From Wikipedia:

The 4HP22 transmission can be rendered undriveable when held on P or N setting and too high engine rotation speed is applied for too long, for instance during emissions testing. Examples of situations that could lead to transmission failure include warming up the catalytic converter on petrol engine-powered vehicle with too high RPM, or while measuring amount of smoke on diesel engine-powered vehicle and keeping the throttle full for too long time.[17] The correct procedure would be to stop the engine for at least 90 seconds, do the test (without selecting again D or R, this means without re-pressurizing the gearbox) for no longer than a minute, and if the procedure must be repeated, stop again for at least 90 seconds and repeat. Another issue is the governor valve sticking, which can be caused by contamination. i.e. clutch plates or other parts disintegrating. The fine debris finds its way past the filter and tends to accumulate in the governor, causing it to stick. A temporary solution is to remove and clean the governor. The problem will often recur as debris from damaged parts continues to build up in the governor. If the problem continues after cleaning the governor then it may be necessary it replace the autobox. Usual symptoms are failing to shift after 1st gear while the gearbox is still cold, and then failing to kickdown to 1st while at a stop. The governor is located at the end of the gearbox and usually it starts to work again after a cleanup.
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That's really scary, Thanks' for the info. Glad I don't have to have emission tests on mine. If someone else ruined my transmission I would be mad as hell. You KNOW they wouldn't admit or take responsibility for sure.
 
Andy Allen said:
Got mine from Carquest for $30 it’s a HD 180 degree unit.
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I did the “Chevy 350” thermostat conversation. It completely cured the wild temperature swings I had with the stock set up. The temp sits at 170-184 on the trail. Runs about 185* on the fwy (hot Southern California day). And hits about 200* when I am climbing a grade. When I tow my boat it will hit 215* on the grades. With the stock setup it used to run 190*-220* for no reason at all. I know a lot of people argue both ways but I am very happy I made the swap.
 
I see a lot of people spending $300-$400 on front drive shafts. My understanding was the weak point for the stock drive shaft was the fact that it was unserviceable. I took my front driveshaft to a shop (Orange County Drivelines) and had them replace the stock u-joints with serviceable u-joints for under $200. What does everyone think?
 
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Mark D said:
I see a lot of people spending $300-$400 on front drive shafts. My understanding was the weak point for the stock drive shaft was the fact that it was unserviceable. I took my front driveshaft to a shop (Orange County Drivelines) and had them replace the stock u-joints with serviceable u-joints for under $200. What does everyone think?
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That's what I would do if my lift dosent require a slip joint shaft. I think that is why some people change the whole thing ! I'm using the lucky8 3" lift and they say the shaft is okay as is at that height (the greasable joints are just good insurance against breakage and resulting tranny damage)...
 
Lanlubber said:
That's what I would do if my lift dosent require a slip joint shaft. I think that is why some people change the whole thing ! I'm using the lucky8 3" lift and they say the shaft is okay as is at that height (the greasable joints are just good insurance against breakage and resulting tranny damage)...
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I love Lucky8. They are super helpful. I got my Terra Firma 2” lift from them.

Thanks, my Disco is G4, the color is Borrego Yellow.
 
Mark D said:
I love Lucky8. They are super helpful. I got my Terra Firma 2” lift from them.

Thanks, my Disco is G4, the color is Borrego Yellow.
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Got me a problem today that has me bumfuzzled. Yesterday my battery terminals were starting to corrode a little. I removed them and also took the battery out of the car to clean it completely. I did all you are supposed to do with the wire brush battery cable and post cleaner. I put the battery back in, the cables are in good shape, and tightened them all down. It was late so I didn't try to start the car but I did spray the terminals with corrosion protector. Today I went out to start the car and it wouldn't crank. The lights are on and bright but the engine wont crank. Is there something I should know about that I didn't do that is unique to a land rover discovery. It acts like something is keeping the engine starter from getting power ! Anyone out there that knows anything about this sort of problem ?
 
When a battery starts growing stuff around the terminals it means the seal around those posts is starting to go bad.

I would put a volt meter on the battery and have someone turn the key to the start position. If the voltage does not drop there is a problem in the starting circuit. There are tutorials online to help you chase down that problem (my money is on your starter solenoid). If you voltage drops way down, say 9v, the problem is you battery. Try jumping the Rover to see if the problem goes away. I am sure Andy Allen might have more to say. I don’t know anything about the Rover that is special.
 
Mark D said:
When a battery starts growing stuff around the terminals it means the seal around those posts is starting to go bad.

I would put a volt meter on the battery and have someone turn the key to the start position. If the voltage does not drop there is a problem in the starting circuit. There are tutorials online to help you chase down that problem (my money is on your starter solenoid). If you voltage drops way down, say 9v, the problem is you battery. Try jumping the Rover to see if the problem goes away. I am sure Andy Allen might have more to say. I don’t know anything about the Rover that is special.
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Good information. I disconnected the cables again and put the charger on and it is taking a charge. If by morning that doesn't fix it the I will try to jump start after reading up on the procedure. I don't want to F up the computer if I haven't already done so somehow. I can handle any of the mechanical but electronics are not my thing at all, especially computer . Thank you Mark, I'll let you know what happens.
 
Mark D said:
I did the “Chevy 350” thermostat conversation. It completely cured the wild temperature swings I had with the stock set up. The temp sits at 170-184 on the trail. Runs about 185* on the fwy (hot Southern California day). And hits about 200* when I am climbing a grade. When I tow my boat it will hit 215* on the grades. With the stock setup it used to run 190*-220* for no reason at all. I know a lot of people argue both ways but I am very happy I made the swap.
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Question, you installed the inline 180 thermo. ?? Did you leave the LRD thermo. In place or did you remove it.
 
Mark D said:
When a battery starts growing stuff around the terminals it means the seal around those posts is starting to go bad.

I would put a volt meter on the battery and have someone turn the key to the start position. If the voltage does not drop there is a problem in the starting circuit. There are tutorials online to help you chase down that problem (my money is on your starter solenoid). If you voltage drops way down, say 9v, the problem is you battery. Try jumping the Rover to see if the problem goes away. I am sure Andy Allen might have more to say. I don’t know anything about the Rover that is special.
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After re-cleaning the battery cables and charging the battery with the cables removed, then installing the positive cable first, then the negative, hooray it started just fine. I'm still perplexed at what ran the battery down in the first place though.
 
Lanlubber said:
Question, you installed the inline 180 thermo. ?? Did you leave the LRD thermo. In place or did you remove it.
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I removed it. The conversation eliminates several hoses (possible fail points) and that plastic “t” (a known fail point for me).
 
good truck but came with crappy GM engine. But at same time Rover should not just drill to make a bigger engine. I hate when they do such cut corners.
 
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