Yep, they come fully welded (pic below), but not painted. You gotta do that yourself.
2003 Land Rover Discovery 2 Build
- Thread starter disco_unchained
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Member III
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- covey sr
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If you don't mind telling me, how much did they cost including shipping. I cant find a price on the site I looked and they don't offer fully welded ready to go sliders. What web site did you use ?
$685 for the sliders, $145 in shipping from Ohio out here to California. I didn't use a website - i think he only has a facebook site and i'm not on there. I had seen good reviews on other forums and called him and did it all via phone and paypal. Good dude. If you're looking for other smaller shops, check out Casey's Custom out of Montana. I'm getting a new rear bumper from there now and I think he does sliders too.
Member III
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- First Name
- Jim
- Last Name
- covey sr
- Member #
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16986
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- none - BREAKER BREAKER HAND HELD CB AND WALKIE TALKIE
Thanks for the this info. These sliders are fairly complicated to build compared to any other vehicle I have seen, so they dont come cheap from anyone. Because of free shipping I think I will probably stick with lucky 8. I may start with just the rocker panel slider at + - $500 and have my local guy add the nurf bars at a later date. I might even build that part myself since I have a pipe bender and welders.
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Update on the cargo area, images below:
1. I have an SE7 that had the rear jump seats.
2. I cut out the carpet for where I wanted to install a base plate. I removed the anchors where the jump seats connected to the floor
3. There were a few reinforcing plates that were spot welded on for the jump seats that i wasn't expecting. This created a problem.
4. I drilled out those plates. Which meant I drilled through the floor. Then I googled and saw there was a tool for removing spot welds. Humiliation ensued.
5. Took it around the corner and walked into a body shop and got the holes plug welded real quick
6. Cut out my piece of 1/2 inch birch plywood to match the area of carpet I cut out, and cut out around raised spots and such. Dramatically oversimplifying this step. Cardboard cutouts and patience were involved.
7. Inserted longer M8 bolts into the 8 holes I now had (4 from the tie down rings, 4 from the jump seat anchors). Laid the birch plywood on them, used a soft mallet to bang the board and mark the bolt locations. Drilled holes accordingly.
8. Hole locations worked. Lined it up and birch base plate now fits.
This is where I'm at now. I will apply fiberglass resin to the plywood, paint it with bedliner, and then install t-molding where it abuts the carpet. I also will install threaded inserts where i will mount the drawer system when I build it out. I'm thinking i might keep the right trim off to keep space for a jerry can. Any thoughts on how to make that area look a little better?
1. I have an SE7 that had the rear jump seats.
2. I cut out the carpet for where I wanted to install a base plate. I removed the anchors where the jump seats connected to the floor
3. There were a few reinforcing plates that were spot welded on for the jump seats that i wasn't expecting. This created a problem.
4. I drilled out those plates. Which meant I drilled through the floor. Then I googled and saw there was a tool for removing spot welds. Humiliation ensued.
5. Took it around the corner and walked into a body shop and got the holes plug welded real quick
6. Cut out my piece of 1/2 inch birch plywood to match the area of carpet I cut out, and cut out around raised spots and such. Dramatically oversimplifying this step. Cardboard cutouts and patience were involved.
7. Inserted longer M8 bolts into the 8 holes I now had (4 from the tie down rings, 4 from the jump seat anchors). Laid the birch plywood on them, used a soft mallet to bang the board and mark the bolt locations. Drilled holes accordingly.
8. Hole locations worked. Lined it up and birch base plate now fits.
This is where I'm at now. I will apply fiberglass resin to the plywood, paint it with bedliner, and then install t-molding where it abuts the carpet. I also will install threaded inserts where i will mount the drawer system when I build it out. I'm thinking i might keep the right trim off to keep space for a jerry can. Any thoughts on how to make that area look a little better?
80/20, aluminum channel for cooler / stove slide combo, and drawer slides showed up!
Got the counter bores in the wrong places in a few spots. Need to fix that and then start attaching the slides and making the platform and “cubby” for the stove. Still waiting on a few parts with this delayed shipping..,
Got the counter bores in the wrong places in a few spots. Need to fix that and then start attaching the slides and making the platform and “cubby” for the stove. Still waiting on a few parts with this delayed shipping..,
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Member III
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- First Name
- Jim
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- covey sr
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It's all a puzzle to me. Did they send good assembly directions. Who was your supplier ? Where did the design come from ?
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I measured about 400 times and designed it over and over again on paper about 20 times. Loosely based on what I’d seen from goose gear. I ordered the aluminum extrusion from 80/20, the aluminum channel and sheets from onlinemetals and the slides from accuride and woodworkers express. I’ll be getting the drawers from drawer depot or something like that.
When I ordered the aluminum extrusion, you can have them do machining services. I just had 4 or 5 of the counterbores for the anchor fasteners it in the wrong place. So I’ll have to pop down to a machine shop to get those done real quick.
Hope to have the whole thing done by next weekend.
Member III
- 2,827
- First Name
- Jim
- Last Name
- covey sr
- Member #
-
16986
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- none - BREAKER BREAKER HAND HELD CB AND WALKIE TALKIE
As always you are doing an extortionary job on all of this build. Wish I could hang out and help when you need more than two hands.
Ok, finally was able to make some progress. Next up, making the drawer fronts, cutting holes for the compression locks, painting them and then mounting the whole thing and will be done!
Here's a shot of the front. Cooler and nested stove slide on the left, two drawers going on the right.
Here's the side and top (black HDPE panels), using stainless eye bolts for rings to tie down light, loose stuff on top like camp chairs, etc.
Here's the cooler slide when out. Nested stove slide can slide out from here. Used aluminum channel for the sides, aluminum sheet for the cooler base and the stove base.
Here's the nested stove slide when extended. Can also extend when the cooler slide is out.
Alot of fun building this. Hopefully will get the drawer fronts and locks done and drawers in and mounted this weekend!
Here's a shot of the front. Cooler and nested stove slide on the left, two drawers going on the right.
Here's the side and top (black HDPE panels), using stainless eye bolts for rings to tie down light, loose stuff on top like camp chairs, etc.
Here's the cooler slide when out. Nested stove slide can slide out from here. Used aluminum channel for the sides, aluminum sheet for the cooler base and the stove base.
Here's the nested stove slide when extended. Can also extend when the cooler slide is out.
Alot of fun building this. Hopefully will get the drawer fronts and locks done and drawers in and mounted this weekend!
Finally done with the drawer system. It's got some quirks and mistakes that make it mine but it's done. May do a separate build thread to explain this in detail if others are interested.
Built around a Yeti Tundra 45's dimensions, but could easily be done for a specific fridge's dimensions.
Front view:
11 inch (tall) bottom drawer, extended, with compression locks
11 inch and 8 inch drawers, both extended:
Cooler slide(with nested stove slide underneath), extended:
Stove slide, extended(can be extended while cooler is extended or not):
LOTS of learning along the way. Now to mount up in the truck! Holding off for a bit while we move, but will post soon.
Built around a Yeti Tundra 45's dimensions, but could easily be done for a specific fridge's dimensions.
Front view:
11 inch (tall) bottom drawer, extended, with compression locks
11 inch and 8 inch drawers, both extended:
Cooler slide(with nested stove slide underneath), extended:
Stove slide, extended(can be extended while cooler is extended or not):
LOTS of learning along the way. Now to mount up in the truck! Holding off for a bit while we move, but will post soon.
Attachments
Member III
- 2,827
- First Name
- Jim
- Last Name
- covey sr
- Member #
-
16986
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- none - BREAKER BREAKER HAND HELD CB AND WALKIE TALKIE
Ok, here’s the drawer system finally mounted up in the truck with stuff:
Attachments
Member III
- 2,827
- First Name
- Jim
- Last Name
- covey sr
- Member #
-
16986
- Ham/GMRS Callsign
- none - BREAKER BREAKER HAND HELD CB AND WALKIE TALKIE
Very nice, did you build the door unit yourself. Did you post a page on it yet ?
I did build it myself. I did a modified version of this: Project: Land Rover custom door panel — Nicholas Bratton
Sorry for the delay, switched to house remodeling and just now getting back to the disco.
Ended up swapping my new-ish steel bumper for a newer one from Casey’s custom out of Montana to get a little better clearance and to get the swing out tire carrier, Jerry van holder and hi-lift mount. Had to cut a TON off the rear fender, so I guess this truck is officially mine now:
