2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Build

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tjZ06

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Well, I was commenting in @JimBill's thread, and realized I should post details about my roof rack here too. We used these: 99-04 Grand Cherokee (WJ) Roof Rail Light Mounting Tabs #WJLB4 welded directly to my roof rack (which we sectioned and sleeved to narrow it about an inch and tuck it down as low between the factory roof rails as possible). All-in-all it worked out really great, and seemed to stiffen the whole assembly up (when you pull on any part of the rack or rails the whole Jeep moves, before the factory rails would flex all over, particularly if I grabbed on one to climb up on the sliders or something).

Sectioning rack:


Welding on tabs:


We kept it ~1/2" off the roof at the tightest spot to allow for some flex without contacting the roof:








-TJ
 

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I finally took the WJ out for a weekend with the trailer. It was certainly an unconventional, somewhat unplanned trip - and not what I'd really consider "Overlanding."

Originally, I had plans to head out into Lassen National Park with a buddy, and hopefully be far away from crowds and chaos (actual Overlanding). Unfortunately, my buddy had to cancel last-minute, and I didn't want to go 100% solo with my still pretty un-tested Jeep build (it only has a couple hundred miles on it since we changed basically everything, and I'm still working out bugs).

I ended up going to Moonrocks, NV where my Brother-in-Law and a few friends were at. Moonrocks is an awesome area/park, and I got to test the Jeep on some fun trails. But it's chaotic as all heck for Memorial Day Weekend and was far too busy/crowded for my general liking. Personally I wouldn't do it again. That said, the SCT was great, and the Jeep did rather well (though, it doesn't love going up and over Donner Summit on Highway 80 with the SCT, especially on the way out loaded with firewood in the front basket and a full 30 gallons of water). I saw a peak of 226 ECT on the way out, and 228 (but for a much shorter time) on the way back. Those are safe numbers, but getting to be the edge of my comfort zone. Also, those were going slow, ~35 MPH in 2nd gear on very steep grades (sections where 80 has the truck lanes, and I was generally just cruising with the trucks).

It got the job done, but I still want more cooling. At this point my next step is going to be testing hood vents, then perhaps an oil cooler. Since my BIL was there with his big 40' Momentum toy hauler, I didn't setup my solar (he ran his genny enough that I just plugged in) or my awnings/enclosures... but it's still a pretty good looking little setup:
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-TJ
 

tjZ06

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I finally got my first major trip in with the WJ and trailer. I guess Moonrocks was relatively major (150 miles each way, going over Donner Summit both ways) but this trip was much, much longer. I went from home in Lincoln, CA to the family property way out in the Payette National Forrest, ID, then back into my folks' place in Meridian (outside Boise) and then down to Las Vegas (more on that later). In all, it was well over 1,500 miles and included a ton of climbs and grades, as well as long sections in the high desert where it was 100+ degrees out.

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Getting into Idaho still clean - too clean ;)

The Jeep did pretty good overall to this point. I left CA very early and got over Donner before it got hot out. But no matter how I planned it, I had to go through the high deserts in Northern NV/Southeast Oregon in the middle of the day. The grades aren't as severe as Donner, but are often just very long, minor grades. It was 90-100 degrees out and, I was monitoring temps closely and having to back-out and turn the AC off to maintain a range from about 214-228. Now, to be clear 228 is hotter than I'm especially comfortable with, but not "danger zone" yet. On the factory gauge 228 was just barely past the 210 tick-mark, where stock it'd run just about all the time (I'm getting temps via OBD-II on a TrailDash2). The trans hit about 220 max. So, not ideal and I would have obviously preferred to use AC at all times, but it got the job done.

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A couple random shots heading out to the family property. The pic with my buddy "posing" on the tire is in Warren, ID.

The family property is ~3hrs from electricity and cell reception, so once we got out there I sort of forgot my phone in the Jeep and didn't really pull it off the dash mount much. My buddies got a few pics, but I really failed as always. I didn't even get 1 pic of the trailer all setup. I slept in the trailer, and used it for a good bit of my cooking and such, but the family property does have a cabin so I suppose it wasn't "real" Overlanding. The cabin is a real deal log cabin with just a kitchen, space to eat and some storage. A few decades back an additional storage room was built onto the side of the cabin, and later it was converted to a bathroom (with a flushing toilet, hot water and a shower) so it's really not roughing it. Still, you don't sleep in the cabin, the other guys slept in the sleeping porches.

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One of the sleeping porches, as you can see it's a semi-open structure.

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Here's a view off the porch of the cabin (the cabin itself I neglected to get a single pic of).

We took a run out to a fire-lookout one day, which is a climb from ~3k ft to nearly ~9k feet. It was hot out (~95 down at 3k) but without the trailer the Jeep did just fine. It seemed to like running in 4LO but getting up into 3rd where I could tell the torque converter would lock best as far as temps.

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A couple pics my buddy that owns the Gladiator got on our way up to the lookout (these pics are just below the lookout).

Another day we went out to head to a lake that's pretty remote. we actually ended up spending most of that day clearing the road of downed trees. I think it was the day before that I found a little snow to goof around on too and every day we got to use the chainsaws and winches clearing trees.

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Did use my swing-out and table for lunch one day.

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And another day we setup a little "burger stand" way out on the road we were clearing.





Then, finally when it was all done I got the Jeep and trailer to Vegas and parked it here:
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My new RV garage/shop at our new house in Vegas!!! Yup, I'm moving from Northern CA to Vegas (though I'll still work in the Bay Area, CA and keep an apartment here). The building is pretty big, the black trailer is a 24' box so about 28-29' total, the white trailer is a 20' box so 24-25'. Then there's my truck, the WJ and of course the little Overland trailer. Eventually our RV will go in here and I'll put up a 2-post lift in the back corner (kind of where the Overland trailer is). But for the moment our RV itself is staying at an indoor storage facility until we get the RV garage done, so I figured I'd put everything in here. The 2 bigger trailers will go outside on the opposite side of the house (which also has its own 3-car garage) under a shade-structure, but for now I just wanted them out of the sun. We'll be insulating it, adding drywall/finishing painting the walls, probably epoxying the floor and of course adding AC. I'm pretty excited!

Of course, with the major life-change, I'm at a bit of a cross-roads on the WJ and indeed even the little Overland trailer. I really do like them both a LOT and they both are getting close to dialed in. If I can get the temps a bit lower on the WJ when towing the trailer in high ambient temps, it'd be a perfect combo. But with the move, I'm not exactly sure if/when I'll be able to use it. The idea with getting into Overlanding for me was to be able to do quick 1-2 night trips when I don't have the time, or don't want to go through the effort of taking the RV out. As a quick reminder, I spend my week days in the Bay for work, and usually have Fri-Sun "at home" which was up above Sac, but will now be Vegas. I'm not going to go back to Vegas weekly, so if anything I have even more reason to Overlanding with the weekends I'm stuck in the Bay "by myself."

As such, my initial thought was to sell my Civic commuter (not needed now that I'm not doing that ~340miles/week roundtrip commute from Lincoln to/from Palo Alto) and just make the WJ my daily driver. If I could store the trailer local, and if I could make the WJ work a *little* better towing it, then I'd have the perfect combo for quick weekend escapes. However, the wrench in the gears is that storage for the trailer is astronomical in the Bay Area and unfortunately the apartment I rent doesn't have room for it. Work *does* have space in theory, but IDK how that would be received. If I can store it in the Bay, then that would be perfect, especially if I could make my WJ a bit happier about towing it.

If I *can't* store the trailer in the Bay, I don't know if it makes sense to keep it. During the winter I won't be using it (that is Glamis season for us) and during the summer there's nowhere close 'nough to Vegas where I'd want to take it on a short trip (I don't mind heat during the day, but to make camping enjoyable in a tent or little trailer like this it *has* to cool off some at night for me, that's just how I am). Anywhere near Vegas I could use it in the summer would actually be pretty far away and would require gaining a lot of elevation. Obviously Vegas is hot as heck, so I'd be trying to do those drives in high ambient temps. On top of all that, if I'm only going home to Vegas 1 or 2 times a month I want to spend time with my wife and dogs and whatnot. In those cases, if we're going anywhere, it's going to be in the RV not Overlanding.

I'm not saying I'm getting rid of the trailer for sure, and I can't even imagine getting rid of the WJ - but I'm still at a bit of a decision point. Part of me wants to throw $ at the problem and buy a diesel Gladiator for my daily driver out here in the Bay, and keep the trailer here (again, if I can find a way to do it that isn't more than a Gladiator payment) and have an awesome combo that still allows me to get out and enjoy all the amazing geography near me - plus gives me something to do on weekends when I'm "stuck" out here by myself. If I went that route, I could keep the WJ out in Vegas and set it up for flat-towing behind the RV. Of course, the other part of me knows I won't actually use two Jeeps enough to justify this approach, and I know I'll go crazy modifying the Gladiator.

That said, the weather is generally much cooler in the Bay Area, so with a few additional mods (hood vents and oil cooler are next) I think I can make the WJ and trailer work there (again, pending storage). Or I just sell the trailer and keep the WJ only in the Bay and go back to a tent, which isn't really a bad deal anyway.

Who knows...

-TJ
 
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tjZ06

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Went and did some Jeep things, if not exactly "Overland" things this weekend. Met up with a group led by a coworker and ran Strawberry Pass. You can YouTube it and find a lot of videos, in general it's not especially challenging. I tried to pick the hard lines and test things, and the WJ did great. I really, really like this thing. I drove up to Folsom from Palo Alto Friday night, and the WJ is surprisingly comfortable and composed even doing ~77 on cruise control. Then ran the trail, again finding the dumbest things to do, then drove it back to the Bay and again could run cruise comfortably after beating on the thing.

Found a good rock to test flex. I drove over the whole rock at this depth:
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Then went back and got fully on top of it to really get 100% flex, but didn't continue over:
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I'd say flex is where it needs to be, and nothing rubbed... close, but no actual rubbing. Couldn't ask for more in that regard.


Strawberry isn't a super hard trail, so I chose to take the hard way on things as mentioned. Here's an example:
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You can see I don't *have* to go over the rock on the passenger side, but I chose to. I didn't have any spotting, if I did I prob would have gone a bit deeper onto the rock as the back tire slid off more than I wanted, vs. going fully over:
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Strawberry has some great views:
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-TJ
 
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tjZ06

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Decided to experiment with hood vents, finally. I had picked up a junkyard hood and some louvers months ago, but finally did something with them.

The idea is to take advantage of the natural low-pressure zone that tends to form towards the front of the hood. The air hitting the front of the rig and going up and over the hood creates a low pressure zone, hopefully promoting extraction of under-hood air as it exits the radiator/shroud. In my particular case, I wanted to line the vents up with this open area after the shroud, before the engine:

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Unfortunately, the WJ's hood profile and body lines aren't super-conducive to that plan:
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With the louvers I had on hand, this is what we came up with:
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It's just a junkyard hood, and we only used a Plastidip (or, Rustoleum's knock-off of it) in a similar metallic grey, so I wasn't expecting perfection. But we way under-did it on prepping the surface (basic dawn wash then wipe-down with paint-prep solvent). Some type of contaminant caused the weird shinny spot RIGHT in the darn middle of the hood.

I had the brilliant idea to cut that section out, scuff the area, clean it and then blend the 'dip back in...























...which came out way, WAY, WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY worse. Lol:
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You can't win 'em all, so I decided to strip the damn thing and start over. A WD-40 bath worked wonders, and the 'dip came off like a nasty sludge (to this point I had been using actual Plastidip brand):
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After that we did a few iterations of dawn baths and a light scrub brush. Then we wet-sanded the whole thing (including the louvers) with 320. We blasted it with a leaf blower, then let it dry for a bit, and started laying on the Rustoleum knock-off 'dip I'd found local (we used up the real stuff on the prior attempt) with about 50% coverage initially (as per the instructions):
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After 2nd or 3rd pass (this pic is deceiving, it's still not complete coverage and the checkerboard or tiger-stripes are way worse than the pics makes it seem):
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For whatever reason, we just could not come up with a technique that didn't leave heavy tiger-stripes with this product. And, the bass-boat level metal-flake was probably more than I bargained for. I have to remind myself this isn't supposed to be the final version: it's a junkyard hood used for proof of concept. Anyway, here's how it came out:
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-TJ
 

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Decided to experiment with hood vents, finally.

Looking forward to seeing how this shakes out. To amplify the low pressure zone, add a bug guard to the front of the hood.























...which came out way, WAY, WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY worse. Lol:
View attachment 209641


You can't win 'em all, so I decided to strip the damn thing and start over. A WD-40 bath worked wonders, and the 'dip came off like a nasty sludge (to this point I had been using actual Plastidip brand):
View attachment 209642
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After that we did a few iterations of dawn baths and a light scrub brush. Then we wet-sanded the whole thing (including the louvers) with 320. We blasted it with a leaf blower, then let it dry for a bit, and started laying on the Rustoleum knock-off 'dip I'd found local (we used up the real stuff on the prior attempt) with about 50% coverage initially (as per the instructions):
View attachment 209646


After 2nd or 3rd pass (this pic is deceiving, it's still not complete coverage and the checkerboard or tiger-stripes are way worse than the pics makes it seem):
View attachment 209647



For whatever reason, we just could not come up with a technique that didn't leave heavy tiger-stripes with this product. And, the bass-boat level metal-flake was probably more than I bargained for. I have to remind myself this isn't supposed to be the final version: it's a junkyard hood used for proof of concept. Anyway, here's how it came out:
View attachment 209648
View attachment 209649


-TJ
 

tjZ06

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I'm really curious to see how it works as well, especially since going no-hood didn't seem to do much (but there are theories around back-feeding caused by the windshield high-pressure zone).

-TJ
 

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Not a ton to update right this second, but some things are in-motion now.

First, I did a pretty "basic" stereo upgrade on the WJ. It already had an aftermarket Single DIN head unit, and the dash speakers were replaced (with some $30 Crutchfield things in the stock size) but the amp and the rest of the speakers were stock. I decided I wanted a bigger HU with Android Auto, and gave Alpine's Halo9 a try. I really, really like the HU itself, and the install came out clean - but I'm not super sure I love how it "looks" in the WJ. I guess function before form, right?

I also decided to just do a set of component speakers up front, and that's it. I debated this a bunch, but at the end of the day I wasn't looking for a big booming stereo, and a lot of the time when I use the WJ the back seats are folded and the whole back is full of camping gear. As such, I didn't see a point in doing rear door speakers. I went with Alpine R-S69C.2 6x9" components with the 6x9"s in the doors, and the tweeters in plates in the stock dash speaker location. I also used an Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack amp and built an amp-board and harnesses to integrate it at the stock seat location, along with the component speakers' cross overs. This way I was able to keep the stock speaker wires going to the doors and dash (I already had to do surgery on my driver's door harness and boot-thing, so I really didn't want to mess with that again). Finally, I added some "KILMAT" sound deadening inside the front doors.

HU before:
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Some in progress:
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The amp/cross-over board (not final, I guess I didn't get a pic done-done):
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And the HU finalized and trim back in place:
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Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. It has pretty good bass depth, but a sub would round it out nicely. Volume and clarity is very impressive for just one component set of speakers, and plenty for my use case. I do have one of these from a previous project:

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...which has two 8" L7 subs plus an amp to go with it from a previous vehicle that I might add to the setup... but I really don't want to lose any potential gear space.


-TJ
 
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As for the projects in-motion, I picked up this:

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It's a '08 SRT 6.1L Hemi. As you can see, we already opened it up, and I'm very happy with how clean it is. I'm tempted to do a dingle-ball hone, some rings/bearings and a reseal and run 'it... but if you've followed this thread you know that won't happen. So, it'll get a 0.010" over cut, new pistons and rings, along with the usual other stuff (bearings, oil pump, lifters, etc. etc. etc.). I'm going to throw a small cam at it, and slightly upgraded valve springs, but I'm not trying to build a monster here. Stock they're rated at 425/420 HP/TQ and I think that's about as much as I want to push through this drivetrain.

The advantage of going with an "early" GenIII Hemi like this is simplicity of integration. Of course I was tempted by a later 6.4 (or even the late 5.7s that are like 395/410 HP/TQ) and the 8 speed auto. However, that created all sorts of integration issues (gauges, shifters, driveshafts, etc.). With the "early" GenIII I will have HotWire take my factory fuse box and wiring harness and modify it for this 6.1L along with a '05 RAM computer. That setup will run all my factory gauges and the early Hemi will bolt right to my 545 RFE. That means no messing with shifters, t-case, driveshafts, non-stock gauges etc.

Of course, I wasn't about to bolt that 6.1 to my bone-stock, ~120k mile 545. So I contacted ATS and ordered up their Stage 3 545 RFE with single-disc billet converter and their "Co-Pilot" controller. It's technically a bit overkill at my anticipated power level (maybe 450 HP), but I don't trust 545s further than I can throw them, plus my rig is heavy.

Now, time to get the 4.7 out and get the harness and fuse box off to Hot Wire double-ASAP while the machine shop has the block and heads...

-TJ
 

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About the radio HU...

If Chevy can do THIS to the "Silverado" EV (Avalanche?), then your HU looks luxurious!
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You mean this? I mean, that's expected in a "future" EV. But, you're right it doesn't look too bad, and it functions well so I like it.

-TJ
 

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View attachment 220097

You mean this? I mean, that's expected in a "future" EV. But, you're right it doesn't look too bad, and it functions well so I like it.

-TJ
No, sir. Not that. That's the luxury edition SILVERADO eV. At least THAT harkens back to the 1960's and 70's dash of the Chevelle and Camaro. I'm talking about the work truck. Looks like a couple of iPads taped to the dash.

Yours looks good and keeps the old girl relevant into the next decade
 
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Not much to update, the Hemi is finally back from the machine shop. Motor mounts are built, we're notching and boxing the unibody for exhaust manifold clearance, then it's all the zillion "little things" to button it all up...

-TJ
 

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Unibody notching and reinforcement to give us room to use the 6.1 SRT exhaust manifolds (or several different aftermarket header designs down the road):

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-TJ
 
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426 GenIII finally starting to come together, everything is done at the machine shop and back in our hands:

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Bore is 4.065" using street/high performance gap we come to: 0.0183 for top and 0.0224 for bottom so we'll go 0.02/0.024 top/bottom:
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Obviously the assembly was balanced, and matching pistons/rods based on weight left us with 1.1g max delta.

-TJ