What Did You Do With Your Rig Today?

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TerryD

TerryD

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tsteb112 said:
Lately I’ve been working on the tire carrier but the other day decided to improve me electronics/accessory wiring so I pulled all the wires that I ran initially and built a switch plate for the little useless cubby. The plate is just aluminum and I got the 12 switches on eBay. They are going to be be powered by a Blue Sea distribution block that I just got in last night.

Question for anyone with knowledge of electronics... the switches say 20A on the side. I have 3 rows of 4. Each row is piggy backed to the switch beside it. Does this mean for 4 switches they draw 80A?



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The rating means the switch is capable of carrying 20a. Your actual load is determined by what you use the switches to power.
 
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Knitron

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Put on new door seals on the trailer. No more dust getting past these beasts of a seal, lol.IMG_20180327_205514_617.jpg

OB# 3805
 
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PaulK

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@tsteb112 Im really confused by your wiring harnesses. What is it you are intending to do there? The way those wires are linked is well... strange. It looks like you are planning to have 3 switches do the job of 1. If any of "this rows switches" are on then power the row. Or at least thats how those harnesses appear to be set up. Maybe I am wrong? Id love to understand the plan there though. Be super careful though, id hate to see your dashboard catch fire. 12vdc will melt wires and catch fire faster than you can imagine if you short them without a proper fuse. In fact what I would probably do is wire in fuses to each switch. Or if you know like you are using lets say 20 amps per row, fuse the row with a 25 amp fuse. Anyhow, maybe i am missing something but do be careful.
 
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tsteb112

tsteb112

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PaulK said:
@tsteb112 Im really confused by your wiring harnesses. What is it you are intending to do there? The way those wires are linked is well... strange. It looks like you are planning to have 3 switches do the job of 1. If any of "this rows switches" are on then power the row. Or at least thats how those harnesses appear to be set up. Maybe I am wrong? Id love to understand the plan there though. Be super careful though, id hate to see your dashboard catch fire. 12vdc will melt wires and catch fire faster than you can imagine if you short them without a proper fuse. In fact what I would probably do is wire in fuses to each switch. Or if you know like you are using lets say 20 amps per row, fuse the row with a 25 amp fuse. Anyhow, maybe i am missing something but do be careful.
Click to expand...
Yes everything is going to be powered through a fuse box. So DC power comes to the fuse box, then to the switches. Instead of running 12 power and 12 ground I can just run 3 of each. The switches only draw a few milliamperes for the led so wired together they are fine. They can handle a load of 20A. Meaning that if I have something that requires more than 20A I’ll have to run a relay. In which case the relay is controlled by the switch and the accessory is powered by the relay.

The accessory wires are not connected yet. Each will have their own power wire. Kind of like this but instead of a fuse holder, it’ll be a fuse box



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tsteb112

tsteb112

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PaulK said:
@tsteb112 Im really confused by your wiring harnesses. What is it you are intending to do there? The way those wires are linked is well... strange. It looks like you are planning to have 3 switches do the job of 1. If any of "this rows switches" are on then power the row. Or at least thats how those harnesses appear to be set up. Maybe I am wrong? Id love to understand the plan there though. Be super careful though, id hate to see your dashboard catch fire. 12vdc will melt wires and catch fire faster than you can imagine if you short them without a proper fuse. In fact what I would probably do is wire in fuses to each switch. Or if you know like you are using lets say 20 amps per row, fuse the row with a 25 amp fuse. Anyhow, maybe i am missing something but do be careful.
Click to expand...
Also, thank you for the concern. I’m new to this level of electrical work as in the past my wiring has been borderline scary. I’ve watched videos and read up on different ways of doing this and this made sense so I’m going to try it out. Hopefully it’ll work as I’m imagining


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Knitron

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Solar panel is installed finally. Flips out of the way to access the RTT. Plus, it pops off easy so I can locate it in a different direction if I need to for better power. Running out of power and having the food in the fridge go bad can't stop the exploration now!IMG_20180331_152835424_HDR.jpgIMG_20180331_152918766_HDR.jpg

OB# 3805
 
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PaulK

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For want of a kayak on a trip.....

1. Find out kaya does not fit with gear in truck bed.
2. Work on computer for several hours.







3. Get Very Busy....








Ill bondo, sand and paint it sometime soon. When complete, you wont be able to see the bolts and it should be nice and smooth. Slides on and off the truck easily too. When bolted down (4 - 3/8 Stainless Steel Lag Bolts into Stainless Steel T-Nuts on the Toyota track system) it goes nowhere. Did some tests last night unloaded and with sharp turns, heavy breaking and heavy acceleration it did not creak, slide give or budge at all. It is solid as a brick $h!t house .

If any tundra owners out there would like the plans for this rack, just lemme know. I've got full drawn schematics for the whole building and assembly process complete with bill of materials...
 
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Cort

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PaulK said:
For want of a kayak on a trip.....

1. Find out kaya does not fit with gear in truck bed.
2. Work on computer for several hours.


Ill bondo, sand and paint it sometime soon. When complete, you wont be able to see the bolts and it should be nice and smooth. Slides on and off the truck easily too. When bolted down (4 - 3/8 Stainless Steel Lag Bolts into Stainless Steel T-Nuts on the Toyota track system) it goes nowhere. Did some tests last night unloaded and with sharp turns, heavy breaking and heavy acceleration it did not creak, slide give or budge at all. It is solid as a brick $h!t house .

If any tundra owners out there would like the plans for this rack, just lemme know. I've got full drawn schematics for the whole building and assembly process complete with bill of materials...
Click to expand...
I don’t think it’s going to be strong enough.....
 
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PaulK

PaulK

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Cort said:
I don’t think it’s going to be strong enough.....
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Heh, yea, its massive overkill for sure. My calculations put the failing of the 3/8" ss lag bolts on the track and that is about 10,000 lbs x 4 bolts... so yea, like 40,000 lbs is about where this rack will break down. Pretty sure the rack is overall stronger than the truck its mounted to. Lucky for me the kayak is pushing a solid 25 lbs.

All kidding aside though, it will be nice to have a very solid lumber rack too. A few weeks back i needed a hadful of 4x6's and had to pay for them to be delivered. Cost me more than the rack for shipping them up the mountain to my home. =/ Now i can just throw em up on the rack and be good to go.
 
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