The not so Aluminum Square Drop Trailer Project

@Silver Rover, I am not going to have an open wheel trailer. The majority of trailers I see out there go for that style, I want to maximize my footprint. I have a few engineering problems. One maximizing chassis strength while minimizing weight, two ensuring I maintain a low center of gravity, 3 balancing the weight of the trailer without wasting space. Everything else is pretty easy. Well... its gotta look cool too. hahaha
 
Jacob Blenker said:
@Silver Rover, I am not going to have an open wheel trailer. The majority of trailers I see out there go for that style, I want to maximize my footprint. I have a few engineering problems. One maximizing chassis strength while minimizing weight, two ensuring I maintain a low center of gravity, 3 balancing the weight of the trailer without wasting space. Everything else is pretty easy. Well... its gotta look cool too. hahaha
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I assume you are using a plywood floor. 3/4 inch, maybe. Remember bolting the floor to the frame will add strength and rigidity. If I remember correctly for 6 ft overall width, the frame rails were 49 inches wide for the Timbren suspension. Then I used aluminum channels to make a perimeter frame.
 
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@Silver Rover If I use steel, I want do somewhat of a body over frame setup. build the base structure out of steel and make the cabin out of aluminum but place bushings between the mounting points on the frame. For two reasons, one to keep it from rattling to death and to prevent galvanic corrosion between the steel of the frame and aluminum cab.
 
Jacob Blenker said:
@Silver Rover If I use steel, I want do somewhat of a body over frame setup. build the base structure out of steel and make the cabin out of aluminum but place bushings between the mounting points on the frame. For two reasons, one to keep it from rattling to death and to prevent galvanic corrosion between the steel of the frame and aluminum cab.
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A piece of good, but heavy duck type tape between the different metals will stop the corrosion.
 
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Silver Rover said:
A piece of good, but heavy duck type tape between the different metals will stop the corrosion.
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true but im trying to avoid wood. If it get wet it swells. At the moment starboard hdpe is not much more than high quality plywood.
 
what thickness you thinking about? I wanted to do my floor in that but didn't like the price. If I remember, it was about $500 for 1/2 inch. I was going to need two 4x8 sheets.
 
smritte said:
what thickness you thinking about? I wanted to do my floor in that but didn't like the price. If I remember, it was about $500 for 1/2 inch. I was going to need two 4x8 sheets.
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I have found it for 1/3rd that price. I’ll try to find the link.
 
Jacob Blenker said:
I have found it for 1/3rd that price. I’ll try to find the link.
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Here's a link for something I have considered for interior walls. It would work for the exterior too. At 1/8" thick it would obviously need a backer of some sort (plywood or ...?).

It's HDPE Puck Board. If it can take a puck it should be able to handle me tossing and turning in my sleep. I've used it before and it's easy to work with. This price is CDN so about $75 US for a 4'x8' sheet.

EM PLASTIC High-Density Polyethylene Puck Board - White - 4' x 8' 51503 | RONA
 
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This is what I came up with. Its not the place I originally looked and the price was about 250 a sheet a couple of years ago. I was going to need two sheets.

HDPE
 
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Getting somewhere... Mocking up the Timbren Axles gotta hit up the ole metal supermarkets.
 
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Sketch up has become quite addictive while I wait for materials to arrive.
 
Got some shoes
 

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Starting to look somewhat like a trailer
 

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