Someone Explain Why My Wheels Are Rubbing

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804Tacoma

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Hey everyone. I just purchased a set of Pacer 164P 17x9 (4.53" backspace and -12mm offset) and Patriot 33x12.50 R17 mud tires to be mounted on my 2019 Tacoma. I have a Rough Country 3" front lift and 2" rear lift. Before I purchased these wheels and tires I mounted my brother's (albeit well-worn) 17x9 Mickey Thompson Classic III with 33x12.5 Atturo Trail Blade MT. According to NTW's website, the Mickey Thompson's have the exact same backspace and offset as these Pacers. The Mickey Thompson and Atturo's did not rub at all anywhere on my truck, even at full articulation and wheel lock, after removing my plastic mud flaps. However, when the Toyota dealership went to put on my wheels and tires, they mounted them and the wheels were rubbing on the brake caliper and they were butted right up against it. The technician said that a set of wheel spacers would fix the issue. I purchased some KSP 1.5" hubcentric spacers and they tried to mount them again. No good, this time the spacers pushed the wheel/tire out so far that it was rubbing the frame of the truck. They couldn't even back it out of the bay. I'm at a loss for what I should do. Can anyone explain to me why they aren't working and what I can do to fix it? I know that lots of people don't like spacers for various reasons but at this point I'm willing to do what it takes to get it working correctly.

One other question, please tell me if this makes sense or if I'm not correct in thinking this. -12mm offset converted to a decimal is about 0.47". If I purchased a set of 0.5" spacers would that be just enough to clear it from the brake calipers, or are the 2 measurements unrelated?

I appreciate anyone that can give me insight into why this is happening. I'm very frustrated with the whole thing and I've already lost a bunch of money having the wheels taken off and put back on repeatedly.
 

Trail_pilot

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I ran into this with my Compass. the angle of the "spoke" on the wheel came off on a different angle and didn't clear my front brakes even thought the wheels had all the same specs. I ended up putting a 5mm spacer (which i cringe thinking of because I hate the shim type spacers) to sole the issue. With a large 1.5" spacer you then change the scrub radius of the setup so the tires will rub on new spots that they didn't before. It sucks when you do the research and for some reason it still doesn't work out,. Good luck and I hope you figure out a solution for your issue.
 

Boostpowered

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Not all tires are true to size they can be +or- an inch, i have nearly the same type set up on my colorado 33×11.5 17 with stock wheels and 1.5" wheel spacers, patagonias 3"lift front and rear and on certain turns with an upward slope mine rub for a second. Before i had same size in toyos they didnt rub i went and measured both and the toyo were actually 32" and the patagonias were true 33"

Options are to deal with it and let em rub till something wears down, go down a tire size or switch mfg, take a hammer and beat you fenders into submission or hack em with a sawzall or cutting wheel or go with a bigger lift
 
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USStrongman

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Its a tire to tire thing.

Overall tread contact to the ground is probably different in each tire, which will cause a different side wall bulge... assuming the rim widths were the same.
 

804Tacoma

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Thanks to everyone for your input. I would like to update people in case anyone finds this thread in the future with a similar issue. After speaking with several companies who have looked at my truck, they all determined that the pitch of the wheel is not compatible with my truck. According to one guy, the only wheel measurements that will work are 0 or positive offset. Negative offset will rub the brake calipers. The only solution they could come up with would be to use shim spacers and extended wheel studs, which would have cost nearly $500 in labor. Even then they could not guarantee that they would work. So I have decided to sell everything I bought and start from scratch. Again, thank you to everyone who helped and to those who find this thread in the future, my recommendation is to save yourself time, money, and headache and just get different wheels.
 

Boostpowered

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Thanks to everyone for your input. I would like to update people in case anyone finds this thread in the future with a similar issue. After speaking with several companies who have looked at my truck, they all determined that the pitch of the wheel is not compatible with my truck. According to one guy, the only wheel measurements that will work are 0 or positive offset. Negative offset will rub the brake calipers. The only solution they could come up with would be to use shim spacers and extended wheel studs, which would have cost nearly $500 in labor. Even then they could not guarantee that they would work. So I have decided to sell everything I bought and start from scratch. Again, thank you to everyone who helped and to those who find this thread in the future, my recommendation is to save yourself time, money, and headache and just get different wheels.
So the 17s taipered down to like 15 in the center?
 

804Tacoma

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So the 17s taipered down to like 15 in the center?
I'm not quite sure what you mean to be honest, so I provided a pic of the front and back of the wheel. I spoke with a gentleman today who described the wheel face as not having enough of a "scoop". It doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me but all I know is that they didn't work for anything lol.
 

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