Off-Road Ranger I
I'm seriously considering adding an X jack to the kit as well. Haven't used one, but like you said, paired with another jack would be a good piece of kit. Sounds like a great thread.
Overland Weight reduction
- Thread starter Jeff Graham
- Start date
Benefactor
In my recovery gear, I carry three snatch blocks, for use in complex recovery situations. Mine specifically are by Superwinch. Each of these add a lot of weight to my recovery kit.
In my never ending search to reduce my payload on adventures, I found a product from Tactical Recovery Equipment that is much lighter.
https://tacticalrecoveryequipment.com/product-category/snatch-block/
I can Cary three TRE blocks, with soft shackles, for the weight of just one normal block.
The price seems to be the big down side. Each one costs three times more than a conventional block. So was I being OCD with this purchase: possibly, what does the OB community think?
In my never ending search to reduce my payload on adventures, I found a product from Tactical Recovery Equipment that is much lighter.
https://tacticalrecoveryequipment.com/product-category/snatch-block/
I can Cary three TRE blocks, with soft shackles, for the weight of just one normal block.
The price seems to be the big down side. Each one costs three times more than a conventional block. So was I being OCD with this purchase: possibly, what does the OB community think?
MasterPull also makes a lightweight snatch block (3.7lbs). It's made specifically for synthetic ropes.
http://www.masterpull.com/snatch-block-sbo30000/
http://www.masterpull.com/snatch-block-sbo30000/
Benefactor
Thanks, that's good to know. The TRE is less then 2lbs. Both options weight is way less then most other blocks. The Master Pull $$ is less, so may be a better option, in the Weight savings vs cost formula.MasterPull also makes a lightweight snatch block (3.7lbs). It's made specifically for synthetic ropes.
http://www.masterpull.com/snatch-block-sbo30000/
Benefactor
My travels tend to be with just my significant other, and myself. We fold down the back seat, and pack gear on top of it. I'm thinking about removing the back seat all together this weekend. Has any one else removed their back seat, for weight reduction, or to make room for gear?
Experimenter I
Not on my patriot but yes. Drag racing cars and camping/hunting rigs. You don't realize how heavy they are until you are grunting and cussing to get it out the door.
Also, you guys have me sold on a unijack to replace one or both of the scissor jacks I carry.
In my Trailblazer build, before the current rig and kids, I did this. We had leather seats to boot. Weighted the rear bench seat, 175lbs. So that's some serious savings.
i drive a 1983 ford ranger that came with a whopping 115hp and 150 ft lbs of torque. this being said i have to be very aware of the weight of all of my equipment and the truck itself. i have done some engine work to help compensate for it. i have added a MSD ignition with MSD blaster coil pack, along with a Holley carb running wth 65mm jets, mild camshaft and high flow exhaust. even with the engine upgrades i have done i am most likely making just over stock power. i go on long trips throughout Canada where gas stations are not very common so i have to carry a large amount of fuel. i am forced to lose weight on everything else. i have gotten a fairly light weight cap on my bed, kept a reasonably small tire (31 inch), have only a hi-lift jack since they work well as a winch and i try to keep myself out of situations that require recovery. i have gone as far as taken out my dash and built a very light weight dash, cut out fender on my bed and front end, removed grill, taken off all unnecessary wiring and vacuum lines. i removed the carpet and trim from the interior and bed lines it to lose weight. i have replaced my radiator with a bigger but still lighter than stock, aluminum radiator. i have replaced the fan on the engine with an electric fan to reduce drag on the engine. i carry a backpacking tent rather than a rooftop tent since they weigh so much. i have a jet boil stove that weighs less than a pound and camping cookware that all together weighs about 5 pounds. i carry 3 gals of water and a water purifier as to not have to carry large amounts of water. aluminum roof racks are an amazing way to cut some weight.
Traveler II
My FJ80 was a 3 seater all other seats were removed for storage, weight and ability to sleep comfortably inside. Those seats are heavy!
Advocate III
Weight is one of the biggest benefits of running skinny tires. I'm running skinny 32's instead of fat tires and it saves a ton of weight, and gets better MPG. My skinny 32's are only a few lbs over stock.
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The longer Im with my Land Cruiser the heavier she gets :-( but it better my Land Cruiser than my wife.
Traveler II
I have also decided to re-shoe the rig with 33s 255/85-16 for that reason plus don't want to re-gear.
Advocate III
Fat tires look cool. But there is a lot of good information on the benefits of running skinny tires. I am running 255's on 17" rims and couldn't be happier. I had my Tacoma fully loaded with camping gear, a Yakima Skybox, and a Black Lab. We just got back from an 800-milre round trip to the Eastern Sierras. On the highway, I averaged 20-21MPG at 60-65MPH (I plan my trips so I'm rarely in a hurry to get there).
Benefactor
Review of the TRE Snatch blocks:
https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/threads/review-tre-snatch-block.8575/
One thing I've been doing is trying to offset, but it only goes so far, lol.
I upgraded from the factory bumper to my high clearance steel bumper. It comes in at only 30lbs more than the factory bumper, so not too bad. Decided to remove the steel cable from my winch and switch to synthetic. To account for additional weight of new bumper.
I upgraded from the factory bumper to my high clearance steel bumper. It comes in at only 30lbs more than the factory bumper, so not too bad. Decided to remove the steel cable from my winch and switch to synthetic. To account for additional weight of new bumper.
Benefactor
With your Power Wagon, I'm sure weight is less of a challenge. With lighter vehicles like Jeeps Wranglers or Toyota 4Runners, it doesn't take a lot to be over loaded. I bet your truck rides better loaded, with the trailer in tow, then empty. LOL
Traveler II
I know my 2006 Ram 2500 Diesel just wasn't happy unless the bed was full of firewood or 1000 lbs of something!
I still struggle with the weight issue. I have avoided adding armor other than sliders for a long time. My old sliders where a bit lighter. I have decided to do bumpers and skids and better sliders. My Land Rover LR4 (with the 5.0L V8) has a spec'd curb weight of 5623 lb, and weighs about 6200lb (taken on a scale) with sliders, roof rack, ladder and me and nothing else in it. It has a GVWR of 7143 and towing cap of 7716. So I should be under GVWR with the bumpers and skids and winch, which will add around 500lb. I think all loaded up with 4 jerry cans and all the camp gear, I can stay under as well. An LR4 is just stinkin heavy to start with... nearly 6k.
Benefactor
I love LR4. You have the same 5.0 direct injection V8, that's in my Jaguar XF. It's a great engine. I'm sure it handles the weight fine. The 3.6 in my Jeep, starts to struggle as I get close to GVWR.
It has been impressive as a tow vehicle. It doesn't have much issue towing my 26 foot searay, which I think is between 6000 and 7000 lbs (not exactly sure, +/- 60 gallon fuel tank, water tanks, etc)
Speaking of which, I need to change my engine and diff oil... hrm. :D
