Overland Rig Wants Vs. Needs

[Jose]

This is mine Stoney, 2016 JKU-Rubicon all stock for now except for

front bumper and 10,000lb zeon winch. Lol

 

[fatkidoutdoors]

You will be fine with the stock gearing. I currently run a 2010 JEEP JKU Sport with 2.5 AEV Lift and 35" General GT tires, 373 gears. I am able to do highway speeds and use it as a daily driver. Its slow and gets terrible gas mileage, but I did not buy it to drive fast nor did I care about MPG.

 

[Jose]

You will be fine with the stock gearing. I currently run a 2010 JEEP JKU Sport with 2.5 AEV Lift and 35" General GT tires, 373 gears. I am able to do highway speeds and use it as a daily driver. Its slow and gets terrible gas mileage, but I did not buy it to drive fast nor did I care about MPG.

Lol. That's the truth. I use mine as a DD but once I get everything set up how I want it, most likely I'll do 4.56 or 4.88 gears F/R and calibrate everything back to stock mode.

 

[TreXTerra]

My list of "want" is as long as my leg and always changing, but that says more about me as a person than anything else. The "needs" list is much shorter: good tires, real 4WD, and experience.

Looking at upgrades, I break it down into two categories: Optional upgrades, and opportunistic upgrades. The fact is that you can overland in any vehicle, it's just a matter of planning your trip around the vehicle you have. If you have a stock Subaru Outback you will do different route planning than a built Toyota Land Cruiser. If you have a 250 mile range and no ability to carry fuel, you will take that into consideration and plan differently than the Ford Excursion with a 400+ mile range.

An optional upgrade is when the part/system being replaced or upgraded is currently working fine, but you are wanting something more that it currently is not providing. A lift kit is an example of this, if the suspension isn't currently broken there is really no need to replace it with upgraded parts, you are doing it because you want to.

An opportunistic upgrade is where the part must be replaced because of a failure and the owner installs an upgraded part rather than another OEM component. An example here would be an alternator failing and being replaced with a high-output waterproof alternator.

I look at my vehicle as a Swiss Army knife. It is my rock cralwer, overlander, daily driver, motorcycle tow rig, and does the Costco/Home Depot/IKEA run. That means my build will make sacrifices in one area to serve another. Lots of my mods have been optional, a few have been opportunistic.

The next step is prioritizing where the money gets spent. Opportunistic upgrades are a little easier to swallow because you would have to get the OEM part anyway, so you are only really "spending" the difference between the stock part and the upgrade. In some cases the upgrade ends up being cheaper than the OEM. I had this happen with my XTerra; the OEM rear drive shaft uses a traditional U-joint at the transfer case and a CV joint at the diff. When the CV joint failed I was given the option of replacing it with an OEM drive shaft or getting a custom drive shaft with serviceable U-joints custom built for $20 less.

This is already long-winded, so here is my list of optional upgrades in order of priority (more or less).

• Tires. The best rig in the world will be SOL without good rubber. Look for something with the right tread, compound, and carcass for your environment. I went with the BF Goodrich TA KO and later the KO2 for durability and puncture resistance.
• Rock Sliders. Being able to drive through with more confidence and not worry about expensive panel damage opened up a lot of trails.
• Upgraded Skid Plates. My vehicle had light-duty skid plates from the factory. I upgraded them to protect the vital oily bits under the chassis. Most vehicles these days use aluminum casings for engines, transmissions, and transfer cases; smack one just the wrong way and it will crack and leave you stranded. I also added a diff guard to the rear differential.
• Lift Kit: I waited and saved to do my lift kit. I don't recommend spacer kits, they can actually reduce suspension performance and even result in damage. My kit involved new shocks all around, new front springs, a rear add-a-leaf (my rear end was sagging), and new upper control arms. Yes, it is pretty involved, but it's the right way to do it. Later I replaced the add-a-leaf with custom made springs from Alcan.
• Rear bumper. A lot of people say to do a front bumper right away to protect the engine from impacts with livestock and wildlife. While that is a concern, I opted to go with a rear bumper for added utility. This allowed me to carry a high-lift jack, my CB antenna, and to step up to two spare tires. That original bumper was later upgraded to one with an built in carrier for two NATO cans.
• Roof rack. It just makes it easier to carry "overflow" gear that won't fit inside or wet and dirty junk you'd rather not have inside the rig.
• Front bumper. Added clearance and front end protection.
  
• Lighting. Upgraded to LED off road light pods in the front, more are planned as utility lights for around camp and dust-lights.
• +5 HP sticker - because I liked watching my mechanic and friends facepalm when they saw it on the intake.

Non-mechanical upgrades include things like a cell phone mount, GPS mount, ham radio, CB radio, red LED dome lights (to preserve your vision when you open the door at night to get stuff) and an overhead work light recessed into the lift gate.

Opportunistic upgrades: U-joints with zerk points, heavy duty lower control arms with zerk points on the ball joints, upgraded rear drive shaft, upgraded clutch, heavy duty battery, and brake pads and rotors.

Reducing Breakage

Preventative maintenance is key, inspect your vehicle regularly and have a mechanic to give it a second look. I could do my own oil changes, but I take it to a local shop because I like the peace of mind that someone else has inspected the vehicle.

• Oil changes. I don't care what the manual says, I do 3,000 miles or three months with synthetic blend. I use blend because I can top-up with conventional, blend, or synthetic if I'm out in the boonies. Off roading is hard on a motor and oil looses its ability to lubricate as it ages.
• Air filter. Don't use K&N or other oiled filters, they are a high-flow system designed for racing, that means that they are more "open" and let through more crap. I've tried running them in the past and found all kinds of oily dirt and dust on the wrong side of the airbox. They also have a tendency to foul up the mass airflow sensor in the intake. Stick with paper filters and keep a spare in the vehicle.
• Lube the chassis. When at all possible, add parts with zerk points. Most modern rigs don't come with these from the factory because each one saves the manufacturer a quarter of a cent or something. Lubricate the chassis regularly to push dirt, water, and grime out of critical joints.
• Maintain seals and gaskets. Especially on fuse boxes and other electrical parts, make sure dust and moisture stays out.

Most importantly: Pay attention to your vehicle; If you notice even a hint of an odd noise, vibration, or harshness address it immediately. This will help keep the vehicle in good working order so you don't have a catastrophic failure on the trail. When in doubt, swap the part out; if it still has some life left in it, toss it in the spares bin for emergencies.

This will help prevent wear and tear, but not abuse. Proper technique and good judgement are your best assets. The most common cause of breakages I see is due to over application of the skinny pedal. The rule of thumb is "As slow as possible, as fast as necessary". Look ahead and plan your line, get out and scout the trail to make sure you won't damage anything - and don't be afraid to detour or change your plans if the road conditions are too much to handle comfortably.

Repairs

My tool kit isn't super extensive, but it is enough to get me out of most things I will encounter. A basic socket set, pliers, screwdrivers, vice grips, and other basic hand tools. Spare fuses, a spare belt, spare bulbs, lots of zip ties, JB weld, ratchet straps (seriously, I've seen sheered u-bolts replaced with ratchet straps so a vehicle could limp back to pavement. I've even seen someone use a tree branch and a ratchet strap to suspend a motor when a motor mount broke.) gorilla tape, teflon tape, and spare bottles of all the fluids. For longer trips I also throw in my breaker bar and torque wrench.

Most OEM jacks are garbage and may not even reach a lifted vehicle anymore, I added an upgraded bottle jack to the kit.

 

[Jose]

My list of "want" is as long as my leg and always changing, but that says more about me as a person than anything else. The "needs" list is much shorter: good tires, real 4WD, and experience.

Looking at upgrades, I break it down into two categories: Optional upgrades, and opportunistic upgrades. The fact is that you can overland in any vehicle, it's just a matter of planning your trip around the vehicle you have. If you have a stock Subaru Outback you will do different route planning than a built Toyota Land Cruiser. If you have a 250 mile range and no ability to carry fuel, you will take that into consideration and plan differently than the Ford Excursion with a 400+ mile range.

An optional upgrade is when the part/system being replaced or upgraded is currently working fine, but you are wanting something more that it currently is not providing. A lift kit is an example of this, if the suspension isn't currently broken there is really no need to replace it with upgraded parts, you are doing it because you want to.

An opportunistic upgrade is where the part must be replaced because of a failure and the owner installs an upgraded part rather than another OEM component. An example here would be an alternator failing and being replaced with a high-output waterproof alternator.

I look at my vehicle as a Swiss Army knife. It is my rock cralwer, overlander, daily driver, motorcycle tow rig, and does the Costco/Home Depot/IKEA run. That means my build will make sacrifices in one area to serve another. Lots of my mods have been optional, a few have been opportunistic.

The next step is prioritizing where the money gets spent. Opportunistic upgrades are a little easier to swallow because you would have to get the OEM part anyway, so you are only really "spending" the difference between the stock part and the upgrade. In some cases the upgrade ends up being cheaper than the OEM. I had this happen with my XTerra; the OEM rear drive shaft uses a traditional U-joint at the transfer case and a CV joint at the diff. When the CV joint failed I was given the option of replacing it with an OEM drive shaft or getting a custom drive shaft with serviceable U-joints custom built for $20 less.

This is already long-winded, so here is my list of optional upgrades in order of priority (more or less).

• Tires. The best rig in the world will be SOL without good rubber. Look for something with the right tread, compound, and carcass for your environment. I went with the BF Goodrich TA KO and later the KO2 for durability and puncture resistance.
• Rock Sliders. Being able to drive through with more confidence and not worry about expensive panel damage opened up a lot of trails.
• Upgraded Skid Plates. My vehicle had light-duty skid plates from the factory. I upgraded them to protect the vital oily bits under the chassis. Most vehicles these days use aluminum casings for engines, transmissions, and transfer cases; smack one just the wrong way and it will crack and leave you stranded. I also added a diff guard to the rear differential.
• Lift Kit: I waited and saved to do my lift kit. I don't recommend spacer kits, they can actually reduce suspension performance and even result in damage. My kit involved new shocks all around, new front springs, a rear add-a-leaf (my rear end was sagging), and new upper control arms. Yes, it is pretty involved, but it's the right way to do it. Later I replaced the add-a-leaf with custom made springs from Alcan.
• Rear bumper. A lot of people say to do a front bumper right away to protect the engine from impacts with livestock and wildlife. While that is a concern, I opted to go with a rear bumper for added utility. This allowed me to carry a high-lift jack, my CB antenna, and to step up to two spare tires. That original bumper was later upgraded to one with an built in carrier for two NATO cans.
• Roof rack. It just makes it easier to carry "overflow" gear that won't fit inside or wet and dirty junk you'd rather not have inside the rig.
• Front bumper. Added clearance and front end protection.
  
• Lighting. Upgraded to LED off road light pods in the front, more are planned as utility lights for around camp and dust-lights.
• +5 HP sticker - because I liked watching my mechanic and friends facepalm when they saw it on the intake.

Non-mechanical upgrades include things like a cell phone mount, GPS mount, ham radio, CB radio, red LED dome lights (to preserve your vision when you open the door at night to get stuff) and an overhead work light recessed into the lift gate.

Opportunistic upgrades: U-joints with zerk points, heavy duty lower control arms with zerk points on the ball joints, upgraded rear drive shaft, upgraded clutch, heavy duty battery, and brake pads and rotors.

Reducing Breakage

Preventative maintenance is key, inspect your vehicle regularly and have a mechanic to give it a second look. I could do my own oil changes, but I take it to a local shop because I like the peace of mind that someone else has inspected the vehicle.

• Oil changes. I don't care what the manual says, I do 3,000 miles or three months with synthetic blend. I use blend because I can top-up with conventional, blend, or synthetic if I'm out in the boonies. Off roading is hard on a motor and oil looses its ability to lubricate as it ages.
• Air filter. Don't use K&N or other oiled filters, they are a high-flow system designed for racing, that means that they are more "open" and let through more crap. I've tried running them in the past and found all kinds of oily dirt and dust on the wrong side of the airbox. They also have a tendency to foul up the mass airflow sensor in the intake. Stick with paper filters and keep a spare in the vehicle.
• Lube the chassis. When at all possible, add parts with zerk points. Most modern rigs don't come with these from the factory because each one saves the manufacturer a quarter of a cent or something. Lubricate the chassis regularly to push dirt, water, and grime out of critical joints.
• Maintain seals and gaskets. Especially on fuse boxes and other electrical parts, make sure dust and moisture stays out.

Most importantly: Pay attention to your vehicle; If you notice even a hint of an odd noise, vibration, or harshness address it immediately. This will help keep the vehicle in good working order so you don't have a catastrophic failure on the trail. When in doubt, swap the part out; if it still has some life left in it, toss it in the spares bin for emergencies.

This will help prevent wear and tear, but not abuse. Proper technique and good judgement are your best assets. The most common cause of breakages I see is due to over application of the skinny pedal. The rule of thumb is "As slow as possible, as fast as necessary". Look ahead and plan your line, get out and scout the trail to make sure you won't damage anything - and don't be afraid to detour or change your plans if the road conditions are too much to handle comfortably.

Repairs

My tool kit isn't super extensive, but it is enough to get me out of most things I will encounter. A basic socket set, pliers, screwdrivers, vice grips, and other basic hand tools. Spare fuses, a spare belt, spare bulbs, lots of zip ties, JB weld, ratchet straps (seriously, I've seen sheered u-bolts replaced with ratchet straps so a vehicle could limp back to pavement. I've even seen someone use a tree branch and a ratchet strap to suspend a motor when a motor mount broke.) gorilla tape, teflon tape, and spare bottles of all the fluids. For longer trips I also throw in my breaker bar and torque wrench.

Most OEM jacks are garbage and may not even reach a lifted vehicle anymore, I added an upgraded bottle jack to the kit.

Awesome post with good advice to take into consideration. Thanks TrexTerra.

 

[Jarrid OB#3992]

My list of "want" is as long as my leg and always changing, but that says more about me as a person than anything else. The "needs" list is much shorter: good tires, real 4WD, and experience.

Looking at upgrades, I break it down into two categories: Optional upgrades, and opportunistic upgrades. The fact is that you can overland in any vehicle, it's just a matter of planning your trip around the vehicle you have. If you have a stock Subaru Outback you will do different route planning than a built Toyota Land Cruiser. If you have a 250 mile range and no ability to carry fuel, you will take that into consideration and plan differently than the Ford Excursion with a 400+ mile range.

An optional upgrade is when the part/system being replaced or upgraded is currently working fine, but you are wanting something more that it currently is not providing. A lift kit is an example of this, if the suspension isn't currently broken there is really no need to replace it with upgraded parts, you are doing it because you want to.

An opportunistic upgrade is where the part must be replaced because of a failure and the owner installs an upgraded part rather than another OEM component. An example here would be an alternator failing and being replaced with a high-output waterproof alternator.

I look at my vehicle as a Swiss Army knife. It is my rock cralwer, overlander, daily driver, motorcycle tow rig, and does the Costco/Home Depot/IKEA run. That means my build will make sacrifices in one area to serve another. Lots of my mods have been optional, a few have been opportunistic.

The next step is prioritizing where the money gets spent. Opportunistic upgrades are a little easier to swallow because you would have to get the OEM part anyway, so you are only really "spending" the difference between the stock part and the upgrade. In some cases the upgrade ends up being cheaper than the OEM. I had this happen with my XTerra; the OEM rear drive shaft uses a traditional U-joint at the transfer case and a CV joint at the diff. When the CV joint failed I was given the option of replacing it with an OEM drive shaft or getting a custom drive shaft with serviceable U-joints custom built for $20 less.

This is already long-winded, so here is my list of optional upgrades in order of priority (more or less).

• Tires. The best rig in the world will be SOL without good rubber. Look for something with the right tread, compound, and carcass for your environment. I went with the BF Goodrich TA KO and later the KO2 for durability and puncture resistance.
• Rock Sliders. Being able to drive through with more confidence and not worry about expensive panel damage opened up a lot of trails.
• Upgraded Skid Plates. My vehicle had light-duty skid plates from the factory. I upgraded them to protect the vital oily bits under the chassis. Most vehicles these days use aluminum casings for engines, transmissions, and transfer cases; smack one just the wrong way and it will crack and leave you stranded. I also added a diff guard to the rear differential.
• Lift Kit: I waited and saved to do my lift kit. I don't recommend spacer kits, they can actually reduce suspension performance and even result in damage. My kit involved new shocks all around, new front springs, a rear add-a-leaf (my rear end was sagging), and new upper control arms. Yes, it is pretty involved, but it's the right way to do it. Later I replaced the add-a-leaf with custom made springs from Alcan.
• Rear bumper. A lot of people say to do a front bumper right away to protect the engine from impacts with livestock and wildlife. While that is a concern, I opted to go with a rear bumper for added utility. This allowed me to carry a high-lift jack, my CB antenna, and to step up to two spare tires. That original bumper was later upgraded to one with an built in carrier for two NATO cans.
• Roof rack. It just makes it easier to carry "overflow" gear that won't fit inside or wet and dirty junk you'd rather not have inside the rig.
• Front bumper. Added clearance and front end protection.
  
• Lighting. Upgraded to LED off road light pods in the front, more are planned as utility lights for around camp and dust-lights.
• +5 HP sticker - because I liked watching my mechanic and friends facepalm when they saw it on the intake.

Non-mechanical upgrades include things like a cell phone mount, GPS mount, ham radio, CB radio, red LED dome lights (to preserve your vision when you open the door at night to get stuff) and an overhead work light recessed into the lift gate.

Opportunistic upgrades: U-joints with zerk points, heavy duty lower control arms with zerk points on the ball joints, upgraded rear drive shaft, upgraded clutch, heavy duty battery, and brake pads and rotors.

Reducing Breakage

Preventative maintenance is key, inspect your vehicle regularly and have a mechanic to give it a second look. I could do my own oil changes, but I take it to a local shop because I like the peace of mind that someone else has inspected the vehicle.

• Oil changes. I don't care what the manual says, I do 3,000 miles or three months with synthetic blend. I use blend because I can top-up with conventional, blend, or synthetic if I'm out in the boonies. Off roading is hard on a motor and oil looses its ability to lubricate as it ages.
• Air filter. Don't use K&N or other oiled filters, they are a high-flow system designed for racing, that means that they are more "open" and let through more crap. I've tried running them in the past and found all kinds of oily dirt and dust on the wrong side of the airbox. They also have a tendency to foul up the mass airflow sensor in the intake. Stick with paper filters and keep a spare in the vehicle.
• Lube the chassis. When at all possible, add parts with zerk points. Most modern rigs don't come with these from the factory because each one saves the manufacturer a quarter of a cent or something. Lubricate the chassis regularly to push dirt, water, and grime out of critical joints.
• Maintain seals and gaskets. Especially on fuse boxes and other electrical parts, make sure dust and moisture stays out.

Most importantly: Pay attention to your vehicle; If you notice even a hint of an odd noise, vibration, or harshness address it immediately. This will help keep the vehicle in good working order so you don't have a catastrophic failure on the trail. When in doubt, swap the part out; if it still has some life left in it, toss it in the spares bin for emergencies.

This will help prevent wear and tear, but not abuse. Proper technique and good judgement are your best assets. The most common cause of breakages I see is due to over application of the skinny pedal. The rule of thumb is "As slow as possible, as fast as necessary". Look ahead and plan your line, get out and scout the trail to make sure you won't damage anything - and don't be afraid to detour or change your plans if the road conditions are too much to handle comfortably.

Repairs

My tool kit isn't super extensive, but it is enough to get me out of most things I will encounter. A basic socket set, pliers, screwdrivers, vice grips, and other basic hand tools. Spare fuses, a spare belt, spare bulbs, lots of zip ties, JB weld, ratchet straps (seriously, I've seen sheered u-bolts replaced with ratchet straps so a vehicle could limp back to pavement. I've even seen someone use a tree branch and a ratchet strap to suspend a motor when a motor mount broke.) gorilla tape, teflon tape, and spare bottles of all the fluids. For longer trips I also throw in my breaker bar and torque wrench.

Most OEM jacks are garbage and may not even reach a lifted vehicle anymore, I added an upgraded bottle jack to the kit.

Wow, you covered it all...thanks for sharing all your years of offroading. I'm sure that was the condensed version. Hope to meet you out on the trail to continue this great convo over a hot cup of coffee. Thanks again!

 

[SeguineJ]

My list of "want" is as long as my leg and always changing, but that says more about me as a person than anything else. The "needs" list is much shorter: good tires, real 4WD, and experience.

Looking at upgrades, I break it down into two categories: Optional upgrades, and opportunistic upgrades. The fact is that you can overland in any vehicle, it's just a matter of planning your trip around the vehicle you have. If you have a stock Subaru Outback you will do different route planning than a built Toyota Land Cruiser. If you have a 250 mile range and no ability to carry fuel, you will take that into consideration and plan differently than the Ford Excursion with a 400+ mile range.

An optional upgrade is when the part/system being replaced or upgraded is currently working fine, but you are wanting something more that it currently is not providing. A lift kit is an example of this, if the suspension isn't currently broken there is really no need to replace it with upgraded parts, you are doing it because you want to.

An opportunistic upgrade is where the part must be replaced because of a failure and the owner installs an upgraded part rather than another OEM component. An example here would be an alternator failing and being replaced with a high-output waterproof alternator.

I look at my vehicle as a Swiss Army knife. It is my rock cralwer, overlander, daily driver, motorcycle tow rig, and does the Costco/Home Depot/IKEA run. That means my build will make sacrifices in one area to serve another. Lots of my mods have been optional, a few have been opportunistic.

The next step is prioritizing where the money gets spent. Opportunistic upgrades are a little easier to swallow because you would have to get the OEM part anyway, so you are only really "spending" the difference between the stock part and the upgrade. In some cases the upgrade ends up being cheaper than the OEM. I had this happen with my XTerra; the OEM rear drive shaft uses a traditional U-joint at the transfer case and a CV joint at the diff. When the CV joint failed I was given the option of replacing it with an OEM drive shaft or getting a custom drive shaft with serviceable U-joints custom built for $20 less.

This is already long-winded, so here is my list of optional upgrades in order of priority (more or less).

• Tires. The best rig in the world will be SOL without good rubber. Look for something with the right tread, compound, and carcass for your environment. I went with the BF Goodrich TA KO and later the KO2 for durability and puncture resistance.
• Rock Sliders. Being able to drive through with more confidence and not worry about expensive panel damage opened up a lot of trails.
• Upgraded Skid Plates. My vehicle had light-duty skid plates from the factory. I upgraded them to protect the vital oily bits under the chassis. Most vehicles these days use aluminum casings for engines, transmissions, and transfer cases; smack one just the wrong way and it will crack and leave you stranded. I also added a diff guard to the rear differential.
• Lift Kit: I waited and saved to do my lift kit. I don't recommend spacer kits, they can actually reduce suspension performance and even result in damage. My kit involved new shocks all around, new front springs, a rear add-a-leaf (my rear end was sagging), and new upper control arms. Yes, it is pretty involved, but it's the right way to do it. Later I replaced the add-a-leaf with custom made springs from Alcan.
• Rear bumper. A lot of people say to do a front bumper right away to protect the engine from impacts with livestock and wildlife. While that is a concern, I opted to go with a rear bumper for added utility. This allowed me to carry a high-lift jack, my CB antenna, and to step up to two spare tires. That original bumper was later upgraded to one with an built in carrier for two NATO cans.
• Roof rack. It just makes it easier to carry "overflow" gear that won't fit inside or wet and dirty junk you'd rather not have inside the rig.
• Front bumper. Added clearance and front end protection.
  
• Lighting. Upgraded to LED off road light pods in the front, more are planned as utility lights for around camp and dust-lights.
• +5 HP sticker - because I liked watching my mechanic and friends facepalm when they saw it on the intake.

Non-mechanical upgrades include things like a cell phone mount, GPS mount, ham radio, CB radio, red LED dome lights (to preserve your vision when you open the door at night to get stuff) and an overhead work light recessed into the lift gate.

Opportunistic upgrades: U-joints with zerk points, heavy duty lower control arms with zerk points on the ball joints, upgraded rear drive shaft, upgraded clutch, heavy duty battery, and brake pads and rotors.

Reducing Breakage

Preventative maintenance is key, inspect your vehicle regularly and have a mechanic to give it a second look. I could do my own oil changes, but I take it to a local shop because I like the peace of mind that someone else has inspected the vehicle.

• Oil changes. I don't care what the manual says, I do 3,000 miles or three months with synthetic blend. I use blend because I can top-up with conventional, blend, or synthetic if I'm out in the boonies. Off roading is hard on a motor and oil looses its ability to lubricate as it ages.
• Air filter. Don't use K&N or other oiled filters, they are a high-flow system designed for racing, that means that they are more "open" and let through more crap. I've tried running them in the past and found all kinds of oily dirt and dust on the wrong side of the airbox. They also have a tendency to foul up the mass airflow sensor in the intake. Stick with paper filters and keep a spare in the vehicle.
• Lube the chassis. When at all possible, add parts with zerk points. Most modern rigs don't come with these from the factory because each one saves the manufacturer a quarter of a cent or something. Lubricate the chassis regularly to push dirt, water, and grime out of critical joints.
• Maintain seals and gaskets. Especially on fuse boxes and other electrical parts, make sure dust and moisture stays out.

Most importantly: Pay attention to your vehicle; If you notice even a hint of an odd noise, vibration, or harshness address it immediately. This will help keep the vehicle in good working order so you don't have a catastrophic failure on the trail. When in doubt, swap the part out; if it still has some life left in it, toss it in the spares bin for emergencies.

This will help prevent wear and tear, but not abuse. Proper technique and good judgement are your best assets. The most common cause of breakages I see is due to over application of the skinny pedal. The rule of thumb is "As slow as possible, as fast as necessary". Look ahead and plan your line, get out and scout the trail to make sure you won't damage anything - and don't be afraid to detour or change your plans if the road conditions are too much to handle comfortably.

Repairs

My tool kit isn't super extensive, but it is enough to get me out of most things I will encounter. A basic socket set, pliers, screwdrivers, vice grips, and other basic hand tools. Spare fuses, a spare belt, spare bulbs, lots of zip ties, JB weld, ratchet straps (seriously, I've seen sheered u-bolts replaced with ratchet straps so a vehicle could limp back to pavement. I've even seen someone use a tree branch and a ratchet strap to suspend a motor when a motor mount broke.) gorilla tape, teflon tape, and spare bottles of all the fluids. For longer trips I also throw in my breaker bar and torque wrench.

Most OEM jacks are garbage and may not even reach a lifted vehicle anymore, I added an upgraded bottle jack to the kit.

I just got learnt.

 

[Cavo]

When it comes to overlanding, my wants are my needs and my needs are my wants. Need two jobs for this passion!!!!

I love it anyway

 

[Vincent Keith]

My list of "want" is as long as my leg and always changing, but that says more about me as a person than anything else. The "needs" list is much shorter: good tires, real 4WD, and experience.

This whole post belongs in the Sticky Hall Of Fame.

 

[Hapkijo]

@TreXTerra
Great post, thank you for sharing your knowledge.

 

[TreXTerra]

Out of curiosity, how did this post suddenly get a bunch of attention 7 months after it was posted? Was it linked or mentioned somewhere?

 

[Faneius]

Great post! I've got to say I've got rig envy even though the "Angry Meep" has gotten us a ton of places we hadn't been before, I still want to be able to get some places we've been turned back from due to ground clearance. lifting a Pontiac Vibe seems silly to the extreme. For now though we will just save our pennies for the future and get out as far as we can as often as we can. Don't Mock the Meep!

 

[crit_pw]

My list of "want" is as long as my leg and always changing, but that says more about me as a person than anything else. The "needs" list is much shorter: good tires, real 4WD, and experience.

Looking at upgrades, I break it down into two categories: Optional upgrades, and opportunistic upgrades. The fact is that you can overland in any vehicle, it's just a matter of planning your trip around the vehicle you have. If you have a stock Subaru Outback you will do different route planning than a built Toyota Land Cruiser. If you have a 250 mile range and no ability to carry fuel, you will take that into consideration and plan differently than the Ford Excursion with a 400+ mile range.

An optional upgrade is when the part/system being replaced or upgraded is currently working fine, but you are wanting something more that it currently is not providing. A lift kit is an example of this, if the suspension isn't currently broken there is really no need to replace it with upgraded parts, you are doing it because you want to.

An opportunistic upgrade is where the part must be replaced because of a failure and the owner installs an upgraded part rather than another OEM component. An example here would be an alternator failing and being replaced with a high-output waterproof alternator.

I look at my vehicle as a Swiss Army knife. It is my rock cralwer, overlander, daily driver, motorcycle tow rig, and does the Costco/Home Depot/IKEA run. That means my build will make sacrifices in one area to serve another. Lots of my mods have been optional, a few have been opportunistic.

The next step is prioritizing where the money gets spent. Opportunistic upgrades are a little easier to swallow because you would have to get the OEM part anyway, so you are only really "spending" the difference between the stock part and the upgrade. In some cases the upgrade ends up being cheaper than the OEM. I had this happen with my XTerra; the OEM rear drive shaft uses a traditional U-joint at the transfer case and a CV joint at the diff. When the CV joint failed I was given the option of replacing it with an OEM drive shaft or getting a custom drive shaft with serviceable U-joints custom built for $20 less.

This is already long-winded, so here is my list of optional upgrades in order of priority (more or less).

• Tires. The best rig in the world will be SOL without good rubber. Look for something with the right tread, compound, and carcass for your environment. I went with the BF Goodrich TA KO and later the KO2 for durability and puncture resistance.
• Rock Sliders. Being able to drive through with more confidence and not worry about expensive panel damage opened up a lot of trails.
• Upgraded Skid Plates. My vehicle had light-duty skid plates from the factory. I upgraded them to protect the vital oily bits under the chassis. Most vehicles these days use aluminum casings for engines, transmissions, and transfer cases; smack one just the wrong way and it will crack and leave you stranded. I also added a diff guard to the rear differential.
• Lift Kit: I waited and saved to do my lift kit. I don't recommend spacer kits, they can actually reduce suspension performance and even result in damage. My kit involved new shocks all around, new front springs, a rear add-a-leaf (my rear end was sagging), and new upper control arms. Yes, it is pretty involved, but it's the right way to do it. Later I replaced the add-a-leaf with custom made springs from Alcan.
• Rear bumper. A lot of people say to do a front bumper right away to protect the engine from impacts with livestock and wildlife. While that is a concern, I opted to go with a rear bumper for added utility. This allowed me to carry a high-lift jack, my CB antenna, and to step up to two spare tires. That original bumper was later upgraded to one with an built in carrier for two NATO cans.
• Roof rack. It just makes it easier to carry "overflow" gear that won't fit inside or wet and dirty junk you'd rather not have inside the rig.
• Front bumper. Added clearance and front end protection.
  
• Lighting. Upgraded to LED off road light pods in the front, more are planned as utility lights for around camp and dust-lights.
• +5 HP sticker - because I liked watching my mechanic and friends facepalm when they saw it on the intake.

Non-mechanical upgrades include things like a cell phone mount, GPS mount, ham radio, CB radio, red LED dome lights (to preserve your vision when you open the door at night to get stuff) and an overhead work light recessed into the lift gate.

Opportunistic upgrades: U-joints with zerk points, heavy duty lower control arms with zerk points on the ball joints, upgraded rear drive shaft, upgraded clutch, heavy duty battery, and brake pads and rotors.

Reducing Breakage

Preventative maintenance is key, inspect your vehicle regularly and have a mechanic to give it a second look. I could do my own oil changes, but I take it to a local shop because I like the peace of mind that someone else has inspected the vehicle.

• Oil changes. I don't care what the manual says, I do 3,000 miles or three months with synthetic blend. I use blend because I can top-up with conventional, blend, or synthetic if I'm out in the boonies. Off roading is hard on a motor and oil looses its ability to lubricate as it ages.
• Air filter. Don't use K&N or other oiled filters, they are a high-flow system designed for racing, that means that they are more "open" and let through more crap. I've tried running them in the past and found all kinds of oily dirt and dust on the wrong side of the airbox. They also have a tendency to foul up the mass airflow sensor in the intake. Stick with paper filters and keep a spare in the vehicle.
• Lube the chassis. When at all possible, add parts with zerk points. Most modern rigs don't come with these from the factory because each one saves the manufacturer a quarter of a cent or something. Lubricate the chassis regularly to push dirt, water, and grime out of critical joints.
• Maintain seals and gaskets. Especially on fuse boxes and other electrical parts, make sure dust and moisture stays out.

Most importantly: Pay attention to your vehicle; If you notice even a hint of an odd noise, vibration, or harshness address it immediately. This will help keep the vehicle in good working order so you don't have a catastrophic failure on the trail. When in doubt, swap the part out; if it still has some life left in it, toss it in the spares bin for emergencies.

This will help prevent wear and tear, but not abuse. Proper technique and good judgement are your best assets. The most common cause of breakages I see is due to over application of the skinny pedal. The rule of thumb is "As slow as possible, as fast as necessary". Look ahead and plan your line, get out and scout the trail to make sure you won't damage anything - and don't be afraid to detour or change your plans if the road conditions are too much to handle comfortably.

Repairs

My tool kit isn't super extensive, but it is enough to get me out of most things I will encounter. A basic socket set, pliers, screwdrivers, vice grips, and other basic hand tools. Spare fuses, a spare belt, spare bulbs, lots of zip ties, JB weld, ratchet straps (seriously, I've seen sheered u-bolts replaced with ratchet straps so a vehicle could limp back to pavement. I've even seen someone use a tree branch and a ratchet strap to suspend a motor when a motor mount broke.) gorilla tape, teflon tape, and spare bottles of all the fluids. For longer trips I also throw in my breaker bar and torque wrench.

Most OEM jacks are garbage and may not even reach a lifted vehicle anymore, I added an upgraded bottle jack to the kit.

Awesome post and thanks. These are many of the points I have tried to pass on to others as they venture into off-roading. I am new to the overlanding lifestyle but find many of the same theories stand true if your DD rig is also your off-road rig.

 

[crit_pw]

Out of curiosity, how did this post suddenly get a bunch of attention 7 months after it was posted? Was it linked or mentioned somewhere?

I am thinking its newer members like myself that want to read and study everything they can as we embark on our overland way of life! ;)

 

[Lazy Turtle]

My list of "want" is as long as my leg and always changing, but that says more about me as a person than anything else. The "needs" list is much shorter: good tires, real 4WD, and experience.

Looking at upgrades, I break it down into two categories: Optional upgrades, and opportunistic upgrades. The fact is that you can overland in any vehicle, it's just a matter of planning your trip around the vehicle you have. If you have a stock Subaru Outback you will do different route planning than a built Toyota Land Cruiser. If you have a 250 mile range and no ability to carry fuel, you will take that into consideration and plan differently than the Ford Excursion with a 400+ mile range.

An optional upgrade is when the part/system being replaced or upgraded is currently working fine, but you are wanting something more that it currently is not providing. A lift kit is an example of this, if the suspension isn't currently broken there is really no need to replace it with upgraded parts, you are doing it because you want to.

An opportunistic upgrade is where the part must be replaced because of a failure and the owner installs an upgraded part rather than another OEM component. An example here would be an alternator failing and being replaced with a high-output waterproof alternator.

I look at my vehicle as a Swiss Army knife. It is my rock cralwer, overlander, daily driver, motorcycle tow rig, and does the Costco/Home Depot/IKEA run. That means my build will make sacrifices in one area to serve another. Lots of my mods have been optional, a few have been opportunistic.

The next step is prioritizing where the money gets spent. Opportunistic upgrades are a little easier to swallow because you would have to get the OEM part anyway, so you are only really "spending" the difference between the stock part and the upgrade. In some cases the upgrade ends up being cheaper than the OEM. I had this happen with my XTerra; the OEM rear drive shaft uses a traditional U-joint at the transfer case and a CV joint at the diff. When the CV joint failed I was given the option of replacing it with an OEM drive shaft or getting a custom drive shaft with serviceable U-joints custom built for $20 less.

This is already long-winded, so here is my list of optional upgrades in order of priority (more or less).

• Tires. The best rig in the world will be SOL without good rubber. Look for something with the right tread, compound, and carcass for your environment. I went with the BF Goodrich TA KO and later the KO2 for durability and puncture resistance.
• Rock Sliders. Being able to drive through with more confidence and not worry about expensive panel damage opened up a lot of trails.
• Upgraded Skid Plates. My vehicle had light-duty skid plates from the factory. I upgraded them to protect the vital oily bits under the chassis. Most vehicles these days use aluminum casings for engines, transmissions, and transfer cases; smack one just the wrong way and it will crack and leave you stranded. I also added a diff guard to the rear differential.
• Lift Kit: I waited and saved to do my lift kit. I don't recommend spacer kits, they can actually reduce suspension performance and even result in damage. My kit involved new shocks all around, new front springs, a rear add-a-leaf (my rear end was sagging), and new upper control arms. Yes, it is pretty involved, but it's the right way to do it. Later I replaced the add-a-leaf with custom made springs from Alcan.
• Rear bumper. A lot of people say to do a front bumper right away to protect the engine from impacts with livestock and wildlife. While that is a concern, I opted to go with a rear bumper for added utility. This allowed me to carry a high-lift jack, my CB antenna, and to step up to two spare tires. That original bumper was later upgraded to one with an built in carrier for two NATO cans.
• Roof rack. It just makes it easier to carry "overflow" gear that won't fit inside or wet and dirty junk you'd rather not have inside the rig.
• Front bumper. Added clearance and front end protection.
  
• Lighting. Upgraded to LED off road light pods in the front, more are planned as utility lights for around camp and dust-lights.
• +5 HP sticker - because I liked watching my mechanic and friends facepalm when they saw it on the intake.

Non-mechanical upgrades include things like a cell phone mount, GPS mount, ham radio, CB radio, red LED dome lights (to preserve your vision when you open the door at night to get stuff) and an overhead work light recessed into the lift gate.

Opportunistic upgrades: U-joints with zerk points, heavy duty lower control arms with zerk points on the ball joints, upgraded rear drive shaft, upgraded clutch, heavy duty battery, and brake pads and rotors.

Reducing Breakage

Preventative maintenance is key, inspect your vehicle regularly and have a mechanic to give it a second look. I could do my own oil changes, but I take it to a local shop because I like the peace of mind that someone else has inspected the vehicle.

• Oil changes. I don't care what the manual says, I do 3,000 miles or three months with synthetic blend. I use blend because I can top-up with conventional, blend, or synthetic if I'm out in the boonies. Off roading is hard on a motor and oil looses its ability to lubricate as it ages.
• Air filter. Don't use K&N or other oiled filters, they are a high-flow system designed for racing, that means that they are more "open" and let through more crap. I've tried running them in the past and found all kinds of oily dirt and dust on the wrong side of the airbox. They also have a tendency to foul up the mass airflow sensor in the intake. Stick with paper filters and keep a spare in the vehicle.
• Lube the chassis. When at all possible, add parts with zerk points. Most modern rigs don't come with these from the factory because each one saves the manufacturer a quarter of a cent or something. Lubricate the chassis regularly to push dirt, water, and grime out of critical joints.
• Maintain seals and gaskets. Especially on fuse boxes and other electrical parts, make sure dust and moisture stays out.

Most importantly: Pay attention to your vehicle; If you notice even a hint of an odd noise, vibration, or harshness address it immediately. This will help keep the vehicle in good working order so you don't have a catastrophic failure on the trail. When in doubt, swap the part out; if it still has some life left in it, toss it in the spares bin for emergencies.

This will help prevent wear and tear, but not abuse. Proper technique and good judgement are your best assets. The most common cause of breakages I see is due to over application of the skinny pedal. The rule of thumb is "As slow as possible, as fast as necessary". Look ahead and plan your line, get out and scout the trail to make sure you won't damage anything - and don't be afraid to detour or change your plans if the road conditions are too much to handle comfortably.

Repairs

My tool kit isn't super extensive, but it is enough to get me out of most things I will encounter. A basic socket set, pliers, screwdrivers, vice grips, and other basic hand tools. Spare fuses, a spare belt, spare bulbs, lots of zip ties, JB weld, ratchet straps (seriously, I've seen sheered u-bolts replaced with ratchet straps so a vehicle could limp back to pavement. I've even seen someone use a tree branch and a ratchet strap to suspend a motor when a motor mount broke.) gorilla tape, teflon tape, and spare bottles of all the fluids. For longer trips I also throw in my breaker bar and torque wrench.

Most OEM jacks are garbage and may not even reach a lifted vehicle anymore, I added an upgraded bottle jack to the kit.

Thanks your post was spot on for everything, you have made clear a lot of things i had questions on. I plan to base camp out of a small off road TT , not going extreme rock crawling, just want to travel many trails in 2018 after i retire. Thanks for your insight.

 

[Joey83]

What do I want?

Lots of things!

What do I need?

A reliable vehicle and good quality tires (27x8.5r16 stock size and will be keeping that)

 

[Dana Ramos]

Good article. I'd agree with many of the comments here and say that appropriate tires and enough lift for clearance over the terrain you'll be travelling in should come first and foremost. Before pretty much anything else, including bumpers, I'd suggest skid plates and rock rails. I would probably add organizational/storage/cargo solutions to this list though. Whether it's a rack on the roof or drawers in the back, you'll probably want some place to keep all that gear you're lugging around secure and manageable. Off-road lights would be about the last thing I'd worry about , if at all. Unless you're frequently driving technical trails in the dark, upgraded bulbs for your factory lights are probably all you need.

 

[TimsterAZ]

Wow, what a great article. Being new to overlanding, the want list seems endless, but the experience and time to explore is most important. I have upgraded tires and suspension, so far so good. A little nervous with the Overland Expo coming up in May. Will be my first time, going to be a little crazy. Being part of overlandbound has been awesome!! Tim ob8081

 

[cdunn334]

Out of curiosity, how did this post suddenly get a bunch of attention 7 months after it was posted? Was it linked or mentioned somewhere?

I am a new member and found it, I am guessing that I am not the only one.

 

[Voodoo 1]

Yes, everything said here is true.

And I'm sure, there are guys and gals out there, that has been at this longer than me.
I'm currently, on my 7th or 8th rig, straight out of the Army in '83, I have had nothing but 4x4's.

I have watched as technology, equipment, style, service, etc. change from a crawl (snail pace), too flippin' Speed Racer!!!!
All in a 10 year span!

This last 5 years, has been crazy. The stuff available is cool, but I find I have to do more leg work for my rig, and it's only 19 years old.
About 3, maybe 4 years after the Jeep JK came out, all my magazines (even though they ask you, your make and model) still just send me magazines full of JK parts and accessories.
Or I fine something I think is really cool on a JK, and they may make the part for a TJ, but not in the color, that I thought was perfect - it's enough, to really piss a guy off.

They get you with these shiny objects, just to find, they don't make them for every body. :(

And please don't reply with, "well maybe you should get a JK". This is not the playground, and I am not 8 years old ;) this is just an honest observation.

Way too many years working in marketing and advertising.