I agree with El-Dracho, but of course it very much depends on the OP's budget.
For Wranglers, though, there's a suspension solution for every budget, but if it were me, I would go with a "buy once, cry once" approach. Because when I had a jeep, I didn't, so I bought a few times and cried a river!
The "best" suspension for a JK, in my opinion and experience, is one that is engineered and tuned for the activity you are doing -- you mentioned nothing too technical, so some of the "rock crawler" lifts that focus on articulation may not be for you. Instead I would check out suspension systems that are engineered specifically for Overland travel -- AEV and ARB both offer full suspension replacement kits. But any good suspension job will have three components to it: Springs, shocks, and overall geometry.
Your best friend before you buy any suspension is a good scale (Commercial truck scales are all over the place and work great). You need two weight readings to make the best suspension decision -- first, you need your "every day weight". This is the weight of your rig in it's every day format, which is likely heavier than stock -- you'll have racks, bumpers, winches, fridge and slide, etc. that are likely permanently mounted to your rig. The second weight you need is your "Trip weight" -- what do you weigh when you are on an actual trip? Once you have that, consider each of these categories:
1) Your Springs: The two weights described above give you the range of weight that you need your vehicle to be "Sprung" for. The ARB and AEV systems both use progressive springs. A progressive spring, like the name implies, gets progressively more stiff as weight is added, so your vehicle can be properly sprung for a range of loads. But, this range is often sold as "low", "medium", or "hard" so talking to a specialist or consulting the manufacturer will tell you what weights those ratings are associated with.
2) Your Shocks: Shock absorbers are a bit of black magic, but the two most important parts for Overland travel are valving and oil volume. Valving speaks to how quickly a shock responds -- the "valves" are inside the shock, and they allow fluid to move from one part of the shock to the other, and it's the motion of this fluid that actually absorbs the impact of the road. Valves are tune-able and should be matched to the spring rate (which is why going with a kit is nice -- it comes already matched). The other part is the oil volume. Oil being pushed through those valves gets very hot. Hot oil gets very runny, and runny oil doesn't do a good job of dampening bumps. A wider-bodied shock absorber will have more oil volume, which means the oil will have more surface area with the shock wall to dissapate heat, which means the oil will maintain it's viscosity and performance. Another solution is to have remote resevoir shocks, which do the same thing as a wider body shock (heat control), for the same reason.
3) Suspension geometry: Most vehicles can get away with a modest lift for better flex, tire space, and in some cases load carrying. But even at 2", and especially beyond it, you are changing the geometry of the suspension and how all the parts line up. This introduces greater wear and tear on joints, bearings, seals, etc. -- the whole system, really. So, consider ways of addressing this too -- the AEV I think offers the 'best' geometry correction brackets for the JK, and that can be had as part of the AEV kit (which is why a lot of people like that kit) but they can also be used with other lifts.
So, to echo El-Drach -- go to the manufacturer, explain what you are doing and at what weight, and listen to their recommendations. If they are speaking roughly the same language as I've used in this thread, you are on the right track. If they use sales talk or don't take your technical questions seriously -- "Oh yeah don't worry about spring rates. Ours are good" -- tread carefully!
If all of this is overwhelming....go buy the AEV or ARB system and you'll be happy.
