Contributor II
Pelican Vault 700 secured to roof rack with thru bolts. Added cables to hold lid semi-vertical - not necessary, but nice.
View attachment 179836View attachment 179837
Sweet setup
Contributor II
Pelican Vault 700 secured to roof rack with thru bolts. Added cables to hold lid semi-vertical - not necessary, but nice.
View attachment 179836View attachment 179837
Influencer I
Sweet setup
Influencer I
Just finishing up my setup. I’m using Pelican 1720 mounted to a Yakima LockNLoad platform using M6 Square head bolts some SS fender washers and rubber bushings. View attachment 182216
Member III
I am planning to do exactly that. I recently reworked my custom roof rack to shift the cases together, mount my traction boards, and cut out the front overhang to add a wind fairing. It looks a lot better without the gap in the center, and inspires me to add a 3rd case for even more storage flexibility. And yes, it is so much quieter in this configuration with the fairing (and yes I will be replacing the wooden fairing with an actual metal or maybe plastic one :P). The 3rd case should give me sufficient space such that the only thing I need to actually keep inside the vehicle will be my cooler or fridge, which I can put in the front seat when sleeping inside overnight.I’m curious if anyone has considered mounting traction boards to the lid of a case. Although there’d be more wind drag, it sure would free up more space on the rack for another case. Maybe using two cases with two traction boards mounted to each lid? I’d like some feedback before I start drilling into my not-cheap case. I’d like it to remain water tight.

Slightly off topic- why the high lift on your Trek? What lift are you running, and how will you change a tire? Do you have jack points installed? I need a taller jack, but a farm jack is useless without jack points front and rear.I am planning to do exactly that. I recently reworked my custom roof rack to shift the cases together, mount my traction boards, and cut out the front overhang to add a wind fairing. It looks a lot better without the gap in the center, and inspires me to add a 3rd case for even more storage flexibility. And yes, it is so much quieter in this configuration with the fairing (and yes I will be replacing the wooden fairing with an actual metal or maybe plastic one :P). The 3rd case should give me sufficient space such that the only thing I need to actually keep inside the vehicle will be my cooler or fridge, which I can put in the front seat when sleeping inside overnight.
Original setup on bottom after I relocated the case--on tp is after cutting off the front ~12 inches and adding provisions to mount the fairing.
View attachment 182551
Member III
Slightly off topic- why the high lift on your Trek? What lift are you running, and how will you change a tire? Do you have jack points installed? I need a taller jack, but a farm jack is useless without jack points front and rear.

Member III
Like I said, I would either...How do you change a tire with the lift mate strap? I dont see how.
Member III

Contributor II
Contributor II
I am planning to do exactly that. I recently reworked my custom roof rack to shift the cases together, mount my traction boards, and cut out the front overhang to add a wind fairing. It looks a lot better without the gap in the center, and inspires me to add a 3rd case for even more storage flexibility. And yes, it is so much quieter in this configuration with the fairing (and yes I will be replacing the wooden fairing with an actual metal or maybe plastic one :P). The 3rd case should give me sufficient space such that the only thing I need to actually keep inside the vehicle will be my cooler or fridge, which I can put in the front seat when sleeping inside overnight.I’m curious if anyone has considered mounting traction boards to the lid of a case. Although there’d be more wind drag, it sure would free up more space on the rack for another case. Maybe using two cases with two traction boards mounted to each lid? I’d like some feedback before I start drilling into my not-cheap case. I’d like it to remain water tight.
Original setup on bottom after I relocated the case--on tp is after cutting off the front ~12 inches and adding provisions to mount the fairing.
View attachment 182551
Contributor II
Just finishing up my setup. I’m using Pelican 1720 mounted to a Yakima LockNLoad platform using M6 Square head bolts some SS fender washers and rubber bushings. View attachment 182216
I’m curious if anyone has considered mounting traction boards to the lid of a case. Although there’d be more wind drag, it sure would free up more space on the rack for another case. Maybe using two cases with two traction boards mounted to each lid? I’d like some feedback before I start drilling into my not-cheap case. I’d like it to remain water tight.
Influencer I
Yep, that’s what I’m doing.
Influencer I
This is a great idea, especially considering that I’ll dedicate one 95L box for recovery gear.
Contributor II
This is a great idea, especially considering that I’ll dedicate one 95L box for recovery gear.
Any ideas how to reinforce Maxtrax mounting pins secured to the lid of a plastic case?
Influencer I
BTW, as for waterproofing I’m 100% confident that the Pelican will stay waterproof. So sure I was going to silicon seal it and I chose not to. Why so sure? Because, I was careful to not drill hole larger than needed for bolt to pass through (5/16” in my case), then I used 1” stainless steel fender washers above and below with 1” rubber washers sandwiched in between. This reinforces plastic and ensures that remains waterproof.
Contributor II
Member III
Influencer I
Member III
I stand on the back tire and have no problem getting in there! It is going to permanently hold all my recovery gear so most of the time I shouldn't really need to get in there.Looks great. How hard is accessing that middle case though?