Factory tow point or use hitch?

[Maverick9110E]

So I'm trying to determine on the outback if I would be better served using the front and rear factory tow points as a recovery spot and or to pull others out of a spot or if I should put a d ring in the trailer hitch reciever and use that at least as a rear tow point? Should I use one or the other on the rear or is it a moot point?

 

[Big E]

I would go with the hitch receiver and a D ring in the rear. Most factory tow points are really tie down points for shipment and towing. As for your front I could not help you with a suggestion.

 

[w_m_photo]

If you have ever seen a hitch with a bent pin in it, or even worse tried to get a bent pin out of a hitch... Yeah, you would never use a hitch for recovery.
So, I would say go with the tow points. They should be a better choice in my opinion.

 

[boehml]

Rated tow points all the way, better safe than sorry.

 

[Overland-Indiana]

I have used my hitch as a recovery point before, I don't recommend it. Hitch's aren't meant to be jerked around like what you would expect from a recovery effort. If you have factory tow points, use them. If you don't look into aftermarket companies that make recovery point kits for your rig. Best of luck!

 

[CDN Offroader]

+1 for Tow points, plenty of videos of hitch failures going though windows and nearly killing people.

 

[vicali]

Does your Outback have the two hoops up front and one at the back? Those are tie down points. You might get a few straight pulls on them but you won't get away with doing a hairy recovery. Our Forester is the same. Worse if you have the 'tow bolt' that threads into the bumper..

Your options are pretty limited, a shackle hitch is going to be your best bet. Problem with Subarus is there are no frames to bolt recovery points to.

 

[RaggedViking]

Tow points really are the way to go - as that's what they're designed for. A Class III hitch or higher with a welded ring or D Ring insert with the proper pin will work fine too - but there are a lot of unknown variables there unless you installed the hitch yourself.

 

[Barton Fink]

.

 

[vicali]

The confusion here is that we are talking about recovery points when really the car only has tie down shipping or straight/flat/easy/tow points;

 

[w_m_photo]

If I were to use my hitch receiver, it wouldn't be with anything other than a Factor 55 Hitchlink. If you're bending hitch pins with this, your strap or rope is already dangerously exceeding its limits.

I have actually seen a bent pin in one of these. The other problem that has been mentioned is the entire hitch becoming a projectile... The confusion is the difference between a static load and a dynamic load. A Device that has a static load of say two tones will in all likelihood fail during a dynamic load on the same device. A hitch may or may not be rated for 2 tones... But that is for a flat rolling load. That rating is not for say, using a snatch strap on. The reason a snatch strap works the way it does is that it works like a rubber band. It stretches and then recoils and provides additional pull as the result. That is also why snatch straps are usually rated for 10+ tones.
So, I'll say it again. If you have a choice, use a rated recover point. Not a hitch.

 

[Maverick9110E]

The confusion here is that we are talking about recovery points when really the car only has tie down shipping or straight/flat/easy/tow points;

Bingo. I have one in the front and one in the back like is pictured on the top picture.

 

[Big E]

I would rather have a hitch point mounted for recovery than any of those in the picture. Even a unibody will displace a hitch being pulled on.

 

[Barton Fink]

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[Ganja_Overland]

I would say get a shackle kit for your hitch. They are about $60 and can take a good yank. The standard "screw in" tow ring is really only made for pulling the vehicle on flat ground, with freely moving wheels or winching it up onto a flat bed, might become a projectile if you try to yank/get yanked out of say some mud or deep snow.

Sent from my SM-N910V using OB Talk mobile app

 

[w_m_photo]

I don't have any pics of it... I'm still kicking myself for that. It was on a CJ7.... I didn't get the story other than he was pulling out a Ford Truck with a Bubba rope. I'm assuming the pickup was stuck in some southern Ohio clay...

regardless, I would still use recovery points and not a hitch. Better safe than sorry.

 

[The other Sean]

Being realistic here, and by no means am I speaking badly about your outback, but, what kind of "recoveries" are you expecting to be involved in? In the grand scheme of 3/4 ton trucks buried to their axles in mud and a relatively lightweight overland vehicle with a wheel or two stuck are two completely different recoveries. If all you are going to be involved in is a gentle tug to get you back on some traction, the hitch will be fine. I would however look in to something more sturdy on the front.

 

[Jelorian]

I would rather have a hitch point mounted for recovery than any of those in the picture. Even a unibody will displace a hitch being pulled on.

I have to agree with Big E. Those little front screw mounted tow loops would probably work to help get you unstuck from some very mild sand and mud, but if you were buried up to the axles, there is no way that thing is holding up. I would trust a hitch that more than likely has 4 points that it is bolted to, than a front tow loop.

 

[Big E]

But, if you are burying your Subaru that bad, buy a bigger truck please and do not hurt yourself.

 

[Lindenwood]

People keep saying "rated" recovery points, loops, and shackles. However, the OP only mentioned factory towing loops on his unibody crossover.

If the OP does not actually have "rated" loops, which he likely doesn't if they are factory, then a Class III hitch with a shackle mount should be a far safer option.