Corey's 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Build
- Thread starter Corey
- Start date
Thanks, I have enjoyed documenting the buildup.
Nope, not single, but not married either :)
The guitars have been on the back burner for awhile since doing quite a few mods over the past year.
I need to get back into playing some more.
Pathfinder I
Thanks.
Here are their install guides for it.
http://www.solidkit.com.au/install-guides/
Mine is wired the way the middle one suggests.
There is no interference when the switch is off, but I leave the meters on full time, as there is hardly any amperage draw when left on.
Goose Gear Cargo Drawers Installed 10-22-2017
The cargobox I have had in my FJ Cruiser since day one was actually made for my '91 4Runner by a carpenter at Boeing.
It is heavy, very thick, and not a lot of room inside of it, but it has done the job since July of 2006 for the FJ.
Lately I have been thinking of a new drawer setup that is light weight, durable, bigger inside, and good looking :)
The Goose Gear stuff caught my attention, but it is not cheap, but it is very well made, and a lot of folk's are running their stuff in their rigs.
I contacted Brain there, and began a dialogue of what size we could come up with to work best in my FJ Cruiser.
At a future date I will get the FJC plate system that bolts down in the back of the FJ utilizing the cargo hold down bolts.
The cargobox will tie in with it, and also bolt to it making it much safer.
At first I was thinking of getting two of the taller drawer modules you can see listed on their site, but for them to work being so tall, you cannot have anything on the rear door like I do, as then the door would not close.
With the shorter cargobox, but still taller than my old one, the stuff on the rear door will not interfere with the door hitting the new box.
The new box is 38 3/8" wide by 27" deep, and 8" tall.
It also sits back further giving me longer drawers than the old box.
The old box is 37" wide by 21" deep (only 16" deep on the left side) by 7" tall as seen in the rear of the old 4Runner.
Being made out of thicker wood, a lot of wasted space compared to the new Goose Gear unit.
I also bought the Trekpak at 4" high to create specific sized storage areas within the drawers, and also some heavy duty toolbox drawer liner to put down first to protect the bottom of the drawers, and also to keep gear from sliding around.
At a future date I may add in a Tembo Tusk fridge 28" slide for the right side so I can put the Trail Kitchens chuckbox on it.
This way I can cook on it and use it if I do not want to setup the chuckbox on a camping/picnic table.
Very happy with the way the box turned out, and it sure is nice having a little more room for gear in it.
I will be ordering the FJ Cruiser plate soon to keep the box secure, and also from tipping back when you have both drawers out.
You can see how it tips back in the video below the pictures.
Links:
Goose Gear
Side x Side Drawer Module
FJ Cruiser Plate System
TrekPak 4" x 46" Strip
TrekPak Cut Tool
TrekPak Pins and Tabs
Professional Tool Box Liner and Shelf Liner, Thick 3mm, 18" x 24 feet by Reizen Tech (18" x 24', Black)
Pics:
'Tis a good fit the new Goose Gear cargobox
The TrekPak drawer dividers is very cool to work with, as you can customize individual compartments with it to fit your gear/tools
Picture of the old cargobox above
The cargobox I have had in my FJ Cruiser since day one was actually made for my '91 4Runner by a carpenter at Boeing.
It is heavy, very thick, and not a lot of room inside of it, but it has done the job since July of 2006 for the FJ.
Lately I have been thinking of a new drawer setup that is light weight, durable, bigger inside, and good looking :)
The Goose Gear stuff caught my attention, but it is not cheap, but it is very well made, and a lot of folk's are running their stuff in their rigs.
I contacted Brain there, and began a dialogue of what size we could come up with to work best in my FJ Cruiser.
At a future date I will get the FJC plate system that bolts down in the back of the FJ utilizing the cargo hold down bolts.
The cargobox will tie in with it, and also bolt to it making it much safer.
At first I was thinking of getting two of the taller drawer modules you can see listed on their site, but for them to work being so tall, you cannot have anything on the rear door like I do, as then the door would not close.
With the shorter cargobox, but still taller than my old one, the stuff on the rear door will not interfere with the door hitting the new box.
The new box is 38 3/8" wide by 27" deep, and 8" tall.
It also sits back further giving me longer drawers than the old box.
The old box is 37" wide by 21" deep (only 16" deep on the left side) by 7" tall as seen in the rear of the old 4Runner.
Being made out of thicker wood, a lot of wasted space compared to the new Goose Gear unit.
I also bought the Trekpak at 4" high to create specific sized storage areas within the drawers, and also some heavy duty toolbox drawer liner to put down first to protect the bottom of the drawers, and also to keep gear from sliding around.
At a future date I may add in a Tembo Tusk fridge 28" slide for the right side so I can put the Trail Kitchens chuckbox on it.
This way I can cook on it and use it if I do not want to setup the chuckbox on a camping/picnic table.
Very happy with the way the box turned out, and it sure is nice having a little more room for gear in it.
I will be ordering the FJ Cruiser plate soon to keep the box secure, and also from tipping back when you have both drawers out.
You can see how it tips back in the video below the pictures.
Links:
Goose Gear
Side x Side Drawer Module
FJ Cruiser Plate System
TrekPak 4" x 46" Strip
TrekPak Cut Tool
TrekPak Pins and Tabs
Professional Tool Box Liner and Shelf Liner, Thick 3mm, 18" x 24 feet by Reizen Tech (18" x 24', Black)
Pics:
'Tis a good fit the new Goose Gear cargobox
The TrekPak drawer dividers is very cool to work with, as you can customize individual compartments with it to fit your gear/tools
Picture of the old cargobox above
Goose Gear Phase II FJC Plate Installed 7-18-2017
The Goose Gear FJC Plate System attaches to the floor of the FJC, and the cargobox or any other modules you get from Goose Gear to it to prevent them from sliding around.
We have had tons of rain here, and yesterday when I got home from work I had a break in the rain, so I pulled the cargobox out.
Steps:
(1) This morning I took off the four D rings on the stock rubber/plastic floor in cargo area.
Also pull off the forward threshold, the one that was underneath the rear of the fridge.
You will not be reusing it again.
(2) Unscrew the rear threshold and set it aside, you will reuse this piece.
After removing it, take off the rubber/plastic flooring, you will not reuse it.
(3) Slide in the FJC plate, and position the rear D rings and use the two long bolts and lock washers that take a 5/32" allen wrench.
You may need to slide these around a bit once you put in the cargobox.
The four short 5/32" bolts and lock washers and insert them into the two front risers on the plate.
After tightening all six of the bolts, the plate is now secure.
Make sure you put back on the rear threshold again with the screws.
I have three of those Adventure Tool Company tool rolls, they sure come in handy for organizing your tools, and all three of them fit into the left drawer.
(4) Put in the cargobox without the drawers, and loosen the L shaped brackets inside of the cargobox with the 5/32" allen wrench.
Position the cargobox where you would like it.
I pushed it forward to within about 1" of the 12v plug on the back of the fridge, this will give me room enough if I have to unplug the cable from it.
Once the cargobox is in position slide the L shaped brackets to align up with the holes on the FJC plate.
Tighten up the bolts and lock washers with a 7/16" ratchet wrench of socket, and then tighten all four of the 5/32" screws to secure the L brackets to the sides of the cargobox.
Almost done...
(5) Put the two drawers back in, and you are done.
Since the cargobox is positioned to the far left, I had to take the screw jack and handle out of the left side storage.
I will find a place in the rig to keep them, but I do not think I will have room in the cargobox for them.
I also bought a pack of four tie down module anchors that I can place around the top of my cargobox to secure gear on top with.
They make two sizes.
1/4" for the top of module systems, and 3/4" to insert into the tops of their plate systems.
The latter would be useful if you only have half of your plate system filled with a module, and the other half is open, but you want to secure gear to the top of the plate by tying it down.
Links:
FJ Cruiser Plate System
Module Anchor Pack 1/4" size for the top of cargoboxes or modules
Phase III will consist of the Tembo Tusk standard front pull fridge slide, and it will be used to mount the new Camp Kitchens chuckbox to it.
This way I can use the chuckbox in the rig and cook on top of it if I do not feel like setting up a table outside of the rig.
The Goose Gear FJC Plate System attaches to the floor of the FJC, and the cargobox or any other modules you get from Goose Gear to it to prevent them from sliding around.
We have had tons of rain here, and yesterday when I got home from work I had a break in the rain, so I pulled the cargobox out.
Steps:
(1) This morning I took off the four D rings on the stock rubber/plastic floor in cargo area.
Also pull off the forward threshold, the one that was underneath the rear of the fridge.
You will not be reusing it again.
(2) Unscrew the rear threshold and set it aside, you will reuse this piece.
After removing it, take off the rubber/plastic flooring, you will not reuse it.
(3) Slide in the FJC plate, and position the rear D rings and use the two long bolts and lock washers that take a 5/32" allen wrench.
You may need to slide these around a bit once you put in the cargobox.
The four short 5/32" bolts and lock washers and insert them into the two front risers on the plate.
After tightening all six of the bolts, the plate is now secure.
Make sure you put back on the rear threshold again with the screws.
I have three of those Adventure Tool Company tool rolls, they sure come in handy for organizing your tools, and all three of them fit into the left drawer.
(4) Put in the cargobox without the drawers, and loosen the L shaped brackets inside of the cargobox with the 5/32" allen wrench.
Position the cargobox where you would like it.
I pushed it forward to within about 1" of the 12v plug on the back of the fridge, this will give me room enough if I have to unplug the cable from it.
Once the cargobox is in position slide the L shaped brackets to align up with the holes on the FJC plate.
Tighten up the bolts and lock washers with a 7/16" ratchet wrench of socket, and then tighten all four of the 5/32" screws to secure the L brackets to the sides of the cargobox.
Almost done...
(5) Put the two drawers back in, and you are done.
Since the cargobox is positioned to the far left, I had to take the screw jack and handle out of the left side storage.
I will find a place in the rig to keep them, but I do not think I will have room in the cargobox for them.
I also bought a pack of four tie down module anchors that I can place around the top of my cargobox to secure gear on top with.
They make two sizes.
1/4" for the top of module systems, and 3/4" to insert into the tops of their plate systems.
The latter would be useful if you only have half of your plate system filled with a module, and the other half is open, but you want to secure gear to the top of the plate by tying it down.
Links:
FJ Cruiser Plate System
Module Anchor Pack 1/4" size for the top of cargoboxes or modules
Phase III will consist of the Tembo Tusk standard front pull fridge slide, and it will be used to mount the new Camp Kitchens chuckbox to it.
This way I can use the chuckbox in the rig and cook on top of it if I do not feel like setting up a table outside of the rig.
Phase III, Tembo Tusk Fridge Slide Installed 12-3-2017
Getting near done with the Goose Gear cargobox/drawer setup.
I see other peoples rigs and it gives me ideas, kudos to those who hath given me inspiration.
I have seen kitchen setups in the back of rigs before on a pull out, and a fridge next to it.
I am happy where my fridge is now behind the drivers seat, but I thought it would be practical to have my new Trail Kitchens chuckbox on a fridge slide on the right side of the new cargobox.
This way if I do not feel like setting up my chuckbox on one of the Eezi-Awn K9 medium tables, I can prep food and cook right out of the back of my FJ Cruiser.
Turns out this slide and the chuckbox were made for each other, as the fit the long way side to side there is no gap.
Front to rear there is a few inches, and that can be useful if you want to lay something down in that area.
The instructions called for 5/16" bolts, but Brain from Goose Gear told me to pick up the 1/4" stuff that I bought below.
Jerry from Tembo Tusk said the 1/4" would be fine, but to use a flat washer on top too under the head of the bolts.
You also use a flat washer on the inner bottom side inside of the cargobox along with the Nylock nut.
Very happy with the way this turned out, and I can either strap the Camp Chef stove to the top of the chuckbox in transit, or have it off to the side.
I had picked up a Blue Ridge Overlanding Gear stove bag awhile back they make for the Camp Chef Everest stove, but it fits my Camp Chef Denali perfectly.
With the old wood chuckbox the stove was stored inside, but this chuckbox is smaller to save weight and space in the rig.
The stove could fit inside, but I would lose the space on the bottom of the chuckbox where I store stuff.
Also installed the Goose Gear Anchor Pack, Module 1/4" Thread I had bought awhile back that is linked in a previous post in this thread to the top of the cargobox so I have tie-down points for lashing camping gear to the top of the cargobox.
Yes, I am pretty stoked overall of how the Goose Gear cargobox turned out, and also the Tembo Tusk fridge slide.
Links:
Standard Front Pull Fridge Slide
Extreme Duty Fridge & Cargo Tie Down System
Also known as Buffalo straps
Obviously I did not need 100 of each item below, but I wanted to build up my supply since I did not have any laying around.
1/4-20-Inch x 1-Inch Grade 5 Coarse Hex Cap Screws, 100-Piece
Nylon Insert Lock Nut, 1/4-Inch by 20-Inch, 100-Pack
1/4" Stainless Fender Washer, 1-1/4" Outside Diameter, (100 Pack)
Pics:
Fridge slide in place and bolted down
Trail Kitchens chuckbox strapped in and sitting pretty
Slide extended with chuckbox closed
Slide extended with chuckbox open, and with the stove setup on top
Video:
Getting near done with the Goose Gear cargobox/drawer setup.
I see other peoples rigs and it gives me ideas, kudos to those who hath given me inspiration.
I have seen kitchen setups in the back of rigs before on a pull out, and a fridge next to it.
I am happy where my fridge is now behind the drivers seat, but I thought it would be practical to have my new Trail Kitchens chuckbox on a fridge slide on the right side of the new cargobox.
This way if I do not feel like setting up my chuckbox on one of the Eezi-Awn K9 medium tables, I can prep food and cook right out of the back of my FJ Cruiser.
Turns out this slide and the chuckbox were made for each other, as the fit the long way side to side there is no gap.
Front to rear there is a few inches, and that can be useful if you want to lay something down in that area.
The instructions called for 5/16" bolts, but Brain from Goose Gear told me to pick up the 1/4" stuff that I bought below.
Jerry from Tembo Tusk said the 1/4" would be fine, but to use a flat washer on top too under the head of the bolts.
You also use a flat washer on the inner bottom side inside of the cargobox along with the Nylock nut.
Very happy with the way this turned out, and I can either strap the Camp Chef stove to the top of the chuckbox in transit, or have it off to the side.
I had picked up a Blue Ridge Overlanding Gear stove bag awhile back they make for the Camp Chef Everest stove, but it fits my Camp Chef Denali perfectly.
With the old wood chuckbox the stove was stored inside, but this chuckbox is smaller to save weight and space in the rig.
The stove could fit inside, but I would lose the space on the bottom of the chuckbox where I store stuff.
Also installed the Goose Gear Anchor Pack, Module 1/4" Thread I had bought awhile back that is linked in a previous post in this thread to the top of the cargobox so I have tie-down points for lashing camping gear to the top of the cargobox.
Yes, I am pretty stoked overall of how the Goose Gear cargobox turned out, and also the Tembo Tusk fridge slide.
Links:
Standard Front Pull Fridge Slide
Extreme Duty Fridge & Cargo Tie Down System
Also known as Buffalo straps
Obviously I did not need 100 of each item below, but I wanted to build up my supply since I did not have any laying around.
1/4-20-Inch x 1-Inch Grade 5 Coarse Hex Cap Screws, 100-Piece
Nylon Insert Lock Nut, 1/4-Inch by 20-Inch, 100-Pack
1/4" Stainless Fender Washer, 1-1/4" Outside Diameter, (100 Pack)
Pics:
Fridge slide in place and bolted down
Trail Kitchens chuckbox strapped in and sitting pretty
Slide extended with chuckbox closed
Slide extended with chuckbox open, and with the stove setup on top
Video:
Contributor II
Thanks!
Jerry from Tembo Tusk ordered me some longer slides for the fridge slide plate, they should arrive hopefully by Monday.
This will let me extend the chuckbox out further, and have it also turned 180 degrees so I can use it from the right side.
ATC Tool Pouch & Mesh Organizer Inserts 12-16-2017
I added an SAE socket set to my right the other day to go along with my metric set, and instead of carrying two plastic cases in my new Goose Gear cargobox, I bought another medium sized tool pouch and insert from Paul and Amy at Adventure Tool Company.
Their gear is great to organize your tools, as I already own three of their products for organizing my tools in the rig.
This keeps all sockets and their handles in two separate bags.
One for the metric set, and one for the SAE set.
And since they are made out of waxed canvas, they smell very nice!
Links:
Adventure Tool Company
Tool Pouches Medium Lined With Blazed Orange Cordura, And "Sockets" Name Tag Insignia
Mesh Organizer Inserts, aka See-Ums (Set of 4)
Pics:
Always a pleasure to receive a package form Paul and Amy, as they go the extra distance to make it personal for you
All the booty laid out
The two cases the sockets came in
Two of the four mesh bags loaded up, hmmmm, what to do with the extra two
The new bag is at the top of the cargobox
Next mod is the longer fridge slides for the Tembo Tusk so my chuckbox will come out further.
They arrive today...
I added an SAE socket set to my right the other day to go along with my metric set, and instead of carrying two plastic cases in my new Goose Gear cargobox, I bought another medium sized tool pouch and insert from Paul and Amy at Adventure Tool Company.
Their gear is great to organize your tools, as I already own three of their products for organizing my tools in the rig.
This keeps all sockets and their handles in two separate bags.
One for the metric set, and one for the SAE set.
And since they are made out of waxed canvas, they smell very nice!
Links:
Adventure Tool Company
Tool Pouches Medium Lined With Blazed Orange Cordura, And "Sockets" Name Tag Insignia
Mesh Organizer Inserts, aka See-Ums (Set of 4)
Pics:
Always a pleasure to receive a package form Paul and Amy, as they go the extra distance to make it personal for you
All the booty laid out
The two cases the sockets came in
Two of the four mesh bags loaded up, hmmmm, what to do with the extra two
The new bag is at the top of the cargobox
Next mod is the longer fridge slides for the Tembo Tusk so my chuckbox will come out further.
They arrive today...
Phase IV Goose Gear/Tembo Tusk Updated 12-21-2017
Phase IV you say?
As you could see from the previous pictures, when the chuckbox was pulled out there was not much room to stand when its door/table was in the down position.
I would have had to dis-mount the Outer Limits Weekender first aid kit to stand there, and it would still be tight.
Rotating the chuckbox 180 degrees so it opens on the passenger side the door would not drop down due to it hitting the rig inside by the tail light area.
I got a hold of Jerry at Tembo Tusk and asked if they had longer Accuride slide tracks, and why yes they do.
He had to order in a pair of 35" ones for me, drill a few new locating holes. and ship them out to me.
He had detailed instructions for removing the original ones, and mounting up the new ones, so it was a very easy job.
Now when I pull the chuckbox out, I have room to drop down the door and use it as a prep table facing it from the passenger side, very nice.
I started removing the stock rails yesterday, and they are around 28" long, and the new ones are 36" long.
Ooooops, I thought they might have to hang out the back, and that would require me not having a rear door :D
I got a hold of Jerry, and the extended length actually comes into the cab, I was unaware as I thought these were tripped stacked rails instead of double like the stock ones, but Jerry informed me on the phone triples would reduce the weight handling capability of them.
This would mean loosing some cargo space inside, but I can work with that.
Remember, I am on a reduction diet of the gear I take, and I have already cut back to two Alu-boxes instead of the three I have now :D
It turned out very nice, and it was below 30° this morning, but very sunny.
Usually not doing work on the rig when it is cold out there.
I did have to cut the tray on each side with a hacksaw, as the ends of the rails butt up against a lip, and the longer length of the new rails would not work, unless I wanted to use the upper mounting holes, but that would raise the tray the chuckbox sits on about 1/5" higher, so I opted to notch the lip.
Pics:
Showing the door/table not being able to drop down all the way due to the stock shorter slide rails
New 36" rails in place
Shot of the chuckbox tucked away, same as before
Shot of it from the rear closed, it comes out about 8" more than before
With the door/table in the down position
Rear shot with the Camp Chef Denali stove on top
Side shot with the stove setup
Inside shot showing how the rails protrude into the cargo area, and you can see the two notches I had to cut in the lip
Down to just one Eezi-Awn K9 table now, with the rails extending into the cargo area, the rail was hitting a second table
I may have a solution to rectify that at a later date
Now I need a food truck license ;)
Phase IV you say?
As you could see from the previous pictures, when the chuckbox was pulled out there was not much room to stand when its door/table was in the down position.
I would have had to dis-mount the Outer Limits Weekender first aid kit to stand there, and it would still be tight.
Rotating the chuckbox 180 degrees so it opens on the passenger side the door would not drop down due to it hitting the rig inside by the tail light area.
I got a hold of Jerry at Tembo Tusk and asked if they had longer Accuride slide tracks, and why yes they do.
He had to order in a pair of 35" ones for me, drill a few new locating holes. and ship them out to me.
He had detailed instructions for removing the original ones, and mounting up the new ones, so it was a very easy job.
Now when I pull the chuckbox out, I have room to drop down the door and use it as a prep table facing it from the passenger side, very nice.
I started removing the stock rails yesterday, and they are around 28" long, and the new ones are 36" long.
Ooooops, I thought they might have to hang out the back, and that would require me not having a rear door :D
I got a hold of Jerry, and the extended length actually comes into the cab, I was unaware as I thought these were tripped stacked rails instead of double like the stock ones, but Jerry informed me on the phone triples would reduce the weight handling capability of them.
This would mean loosing some cargo space inside, but I can work with that.
Remember, I am on a reduction diet of the gear I take, and I have already cut back to two Alu-boxes instead of the three I have now :D
It turned out very nice, and it was below 30° this morning, but very sunny.
Usually not doing work on the rig when it is cold out there.
I did have to cut the tray on each side with a hacksaw, as the ends of the rails butt up against a lip, and the longer length of the new rails would not work, unless I wanted to use the upper mounting holes, but that would raise the tray the chuckbox sits on about 1/5" higher, so I opted to notch the lip.
Pics:
Showing the door/table not being able to drop down all the way due to the stock shorter slide rails
New 36" rails in place
Shot of the chuckbox tucked away, same as before
Shot of it from the rear closed, it comes out about 8" more than before
With the door/table in the down position
Rear shot with the Camp Chef Denali stove on top
Side shot with the stove setup
Inside shot showing how the rails protrude into the cargo area, and you can see the two notches I had to cut in the lip
Down to just one Eezi-Awn K9 table now, with the rails extending into the cargo area, the rail was hitting a second table
I may have a solution to rectify that at a later date
Now I need a food truck license ;)
Update To The Stove Height/Chuckbox 12-30-2107
So as seen in the last set of pictures, the stove sat too high on top of the chuckbox, so high I would have to stand on a step stool, and risk falling off.
The solution would be to just move the stove down to the chuckboxes door/table, but the backside of the latch prevented the stove from sitting flush and level.
I had some of these plastic plugs leftover from some extensions for some studio monitor speakers that just happen to go into the holes on the bottoms of the stoves rubber feet.
They raise the stove up high enough that I can now place the stove on the door/table and use it.
Problem solved!
First up though is a picture I took a few days ago with my tablet showing how Alu-Boxes are going to fit perfectly in between the extended rails for the fridge slide.
Even the Blue Ridge Chair Works chair fits withing the rail too to snuggle up against the Alu-Box.
This is just the 42 liter one which I will not be using, as I will be taking the 60 liter one for dry food, and the 73 liter one which houses miscellaneous gear.
They will double stack in this space perfectly.
I will move the solar panel though and stand it up on its side, as I think the weight of the two Alu-Boxes will compromise the padded case and might break the solar panel glass, not good.
Here are a few shots of the bottom of the stove showing the plastic extensions inserted into the stoves rubber feet.
And finally the stove sitting on the door/table of the chuckbox, thus lowering it to a more suitable height in which to cook food.
I always have the option though to just move the stove to one of my camp tables.
So as seen in the last set of pictures, the stove sat too high on top of the chuckbox, so high I would have to stand on a step stool, and risk falling off.
The solution would be to just move the stove down to the chuckboxes door/table, but the backside of the latch prevented the stove from sitting flush and level.
I had some of these plastic plugs leftover from some extensions for some studio monitor speakers that just happen to go into the holes on the bottoms of the stoves rubber feet.
They raise the stove up high enough that I can now place the stove on the door/table and use it.
Problem solved!
First up though is a picture I took a few days ago with my tablet showing how Alu-Boxes are going to fit perfectly in between the extended rails for the fridge slide.
Even the Blue Ridge Chair Works chair fits withing the rail too to snuggle up against the Alu-Box.
This is just the 42 liter one which I will not be using, as I will be taking the 60 liter one for dry food, and the 73 liter one which houses miscellaneous gear.
They will double stack in this space perfectly.
I will move the solar panel though and stand it up on its side, as I think the weight of the two Alu-Boxes will compromise the padded case and might break the solar panel glass, not good.
Here are a few shots of the bottom of the stove showing the plastic extensions inserted into the stoves rubber feet.
And finally the stove sitting on the door/table of the chuckbox, thus lowering it to a more suitable height in which to cook food.
I always have the option though to just move the stove to one of my camp tables.
Its hammer Time! 1-13-2018
First day in awhile with it being fairly nice outside, and no rain.
I cleaned out my interior which needed it badly, and was organizing my cargobox a bit, and I spied the plastic tent stake hammer in there that I have been wanting to move to the rear door fold down rack/table.
I had some more of those mini Quick Fists like I used for the small hatchet, but they were too small.
I also had two more pair of the bigger ones like that hold my Fiskars axe to the rack.
Perfect size, and now I do not have to dig through the cargobox when it is hammer time for pounding in stakes for various camping accessories.
This hammer also pulls out stakes too.
I have had the hammer since the late 80s when I use to backpack around Mount Rainier.
Light weight, and it does a great job, even on bigger heavier stakes.
I had bought it at REI, but Amazon carries these too.
Links:
Original Quick Fist Clamp for mounting tools & equipment 1" - 2-1/4" diameter (Pack of 2)
Coleman Mallet with Tent Peg Remover
Pics:
Used the new 1/4" bolts, Nylock nuts, and flat washers that I had bought for the installation of the Tembo Tusk fridge slide to the top of the Goose Gear cargobox
Quick Fists rule
It is a great fit indeed, and much more easy to get to now
First day in awhile with it being fairly nice outside, and no rain.
I cleaned out my interior which needed it badly, and was organizing my cargobox a bit, and I spied the plastic tent stake hammer in there that I have been wanting to move to the rear door fold down rack/table.
I had some more of those mini Quick Fists like I used for the small hatchet, but they were too small.
I also had two more pair of the bigger ones like that hold my Fiskars axe to the rack.
Perfect size, and now I do not have to dig through the cargobox when it is hammer time for pounding in stakes for various camping accessories.
This hammer also pulls out stakes too.
I have had the hammer since the late 80s when I use to backpack around Mount Rainier.
Light weight, and it does a great job, even on bigger heavier stakes.
I had bought it at REI, but Amazon carries these too.
Links:
Original Quick Fist Clamp for mounting tools & equipment 1" - 2-1/4" diameter (Pack of 2)
Coleman Mallet with Tent Peg Remover
Pics:
Used the new 1/4" bolts, Nylock nuts, and flat washers that I had bought for the installation of the Tembo Tusk fridge slide to the top of the Goose Gear cargobox
Quick Fists rule
It is a great fit indeed, and much more easy to get to now
Spec D Tuning 3.5" Inlet Snorkel Off-Road 4x4 Installed 2-24-2018
I saw a post in Instagram from a guy I follow with an FJ Cruiser that head one of those round dust collectors that when the air comes into the head, it spins and any dirt that enters gets trapped into a receptacle you can empty out by removing the lid.
I am not sure if this breathes as well as the stock Safari snorkel head, but I will test it out for a few days.
I mainly got this for when I explore the old growth logging roads in the Greenwater vicinity.
They can be very dusty during the summer time, and this will help from any dirt reaching the Toyota air filter, thus keeping it from getting clogged.
They are pricey enough :)
It took less than five minutes to make the swap, just had to loosen a clamp, and take some 409 cleaner to the snorkel and wipe down the outside a bit.
Pics, one video:
Stock Safari head
New Spec D cyclonic head
Link:
Spec-D Tuning SNK-PC35 3.5" Inlet Snorkel Off-Road 4X4 4WD Jeep Cold Air Ram Pre-Cleaner Intake Head
I saw a post in Instagram from a guy I follow with an FJ Cruiser that head one of those round dust collectors that when the air comes into the head, it spins and any dirt that enters gets trapped into a receptacle you can empty out by removing the lid.
I am not sure if this breathes as well as the stock Safari snorkel head, but I will test it out for a few days.
I mainly got this for when I explore the old growth logging roads in the Greenwater vicinity.
They can be very dusty during the summer time, and this will help from any dirt reaching the Toyota air filter, thus keeping it from getting clogged.
They are pricey enough :)
It took less than five minutes to make the swap, just had to loosen a clamp, and take some 409 cleaner to the snorkel and wipe down the outside a bit.
Pics, one video:
Stock Safari head
New Spec D cyclonic head
Link:
Spec-D Tuning SNK-PC35 3.5" Inlet Snorkel Off-Road 4X4 4WD Jeep Cold Air Ram Pre-Cleaner Intake Head
Relocated Backup Camera 3-10-2018
Almost two years ago I had my rear ARB bumper installed, and the shop moved the backup camera to the spare tires center cap.
Although it was a great spot to see everything centered behind me, the camera became useless once I installed my Maxtrax on the spare tire hanger for them.
This morning I finally got around to relocating the camera which I should have done a long time ago.
There really is not a good spot to get the camera centered again, so I opted to have it off to the side on the BajaRacks ladder mount.
I could mount it lower and get a better field of view by mounting it underneath the rear lip of the ARB bumper, but then I take a chance of it ripping off while exploring trails where I like to go.
This will work for now where I have it, but in the future I may monkey around and see if I can get it centered and lower.
Rig is filthy, needs a bath badly.
Camera on the wheels center cap, not a good place for it, because if I had to use the spare tire, the camera would have to be unscrewed from the cap
Closeup of the center cap and camera
Camera in its new place
Screenshot on the Pioneer stereo, image is reversed, will have to see if there is an option to fix that in the settings
Almost two years ago I had my rear ARB bumper installed, and the shop moved the backup camera to the spare tires center cap.
Although it was a great spot to see everything centered behind me, the camera became useless once I installed my Maxtrax on the spare tire hanger for them.
This morning I finally got around to relocating the camera which I should have done a long time ago.
There really is not a good spot to get the camera centered again, so I opted to have it off to the side on the BajaRacks ladder mount.
I could mount it lower and get a better field of view by mounting it underneath the rear lip of the ARB bumper, but then I take a chance of it ripping off while exploring trails where I like to go.
This will work for now where I have it, but in the future I may monkey around and see if I can get it centered and lower.
Rig is filthy, needs a bath badly.
Camera on the wheels center cap, not a good place for it, because if I had to use the spare tire, the camera would have to be unscrewed from the cap
Closeup of the center cap and camera
Camera in its new place
Screenshot on the Pioneer stereo, image is reversed, will have to see if there is an option to fix that in the settings
Relocated Fire Extinguisher & First Aid Kit 3-17-2018
With my Outer Limits Supply First Aid kit on the rear door it protrudes too far into the cargo area when you shut the door.
In order to relocate it I had to move my fire extinguisher to a better location, and I choose next to the fridge on the seat back.
I am not sure what kind of metal is behind the plastic you drill into, but in the past I have broken off drill bits, and today was the same.
I ruined two new drill bits I had bought awhile back when I got a new Ryobi drill.
With the fire extinguisher moved, I could now take off the first aid kit and move it next to the Powertank.
I had to turn it sideways though, and it is a little harder to active the pull strap, but I can still get it off the Springtail siderack OK.
Now I have plenty of room in the back next to the Trail Kitchens chuckbox.
I can have my big 73 liter Alu-Box there that contains misc. camping supplies, but there is not enough room on top of of it to put the 60 later Alu-Box I used for non refrigerated food.
I do have a 42 liter Alu-Box that might fit on top, but it is a little too short to hold all of the food.
I may put the 73 and 60 liter Alu-Boxes on top of each other behind the passenger seat, as they will stack there since they are lower and not sitting on top of the Goose Gear cargobox.
I will experiment more when it gets close to camping season, and when I will be leaving the Alu-Boxes in the rig full time.
If I do leave the two Alu-Boxes up front, that will give me plenty of room in the rear for the Thetford crapper, a propane shower, and more gear.
This season the rig is going to be the best organized it has ever been.
It was so crowded inside last season, and I only had room for one bundle of firewood.
The solution for carrying lots of firewood is in the next mod to my rig, it should be landing this coming Wednesday, and I hope to get it installed next Saturday, and will update my thread here with it.
Pics:
Old location next to the Powertank
Bracket installed next to the fridge, and yes, my two broken drill bits are still inside of the metal that is underneath the top plastic, time to buy another set of drills
Fire extinguisher in its new home
Old location of the Outer Limits Supply Weekend Warrior first aid kit
With first aid kit removed, nothing is sticking out to take up precious cargo space when the door is shut
Quick release bracket in place, but I had to mount it sideways, as the Powertank takes up a lot of room on the siderack
First aid kit all mounted up
Rear shot with the 73 liter Alu-Box in the rear now, door now will close and not hit any cargo with the first aid kit relocated
The 60 liter Alu-Box in place along with the Thetford porta-potty on top, but I may has mentioned earlier put the two Alu-Boxes there together
Stay tuned for the carrying of firewood solution...
With my Outer Limits Supply First Aid kit on the rear door it protrudes too far into the cargo area when you shut the door.
In order to relocate it I had to move my fire extinguisher to a better location, and I choose next to the fridge on the seat back.
I am not sure what kind of metal is behind the plastic you drill into, but in the past I have broken off drill bits, and today was the same.
I ruined two new drill bits I had bought awhile back when I got a new Ryobi drill.
With the fire extinguisher moved, I could now take off the first aid kit and move it next to the Powertank.
I had to turn it sideways though, and it is a little harder to active the pull strap, but I can still get it off the Springtail siderack OK.
Now I have plenty of room in the back next to the Trail Kitchens chuckbox.
I can have my big 73 liter Alu-Box there that contains misc. camping supplies, but there is not enough room on top of of it to put the 60 later Alu-Box I used for non refrigerated food.
I do have a 42 liter Alu-Box that might fit on top, but it is a little too short to hold all of the food.
I may put the 73 and 60 liter Alu-Boxes on top of each other behind the passenger seat, as they will stack there since they are lower and not sitting on top of the Goose Gear cargobox.
I will experiment more when it gets close to camping season, and when I will be leaving the Alu-Boxes in the rig full time.
If I do leave the two Alu-Boxes up front, that will give me plenty of room in the rear for the Thetford crapper, a propane shower, and more gear.
This season the rig is going to be the best organized it has ever been.
It was so crowded inside last season, and I only had room for one bundle of firewood.
The solution for carrying lots of firewood is in the next mod to my rig, it should be landing this coming Wednesday, and I hope to get it installed next Saturday, and will update my thread here with it.
Pics:
Old location next to the Powertank
Bracket installed next to the fridge, and yes, my two broken drill bits are still inside of the metal that is underneath the top plastic, time to buy another set of drills
Fire extinguisher in its new home
Old location of the Outer Limits Supply Weekend Warrior first aid kit
With first aid kit removed, nothing is sticking out to take up precious cargo space when the door is shut
Quick release bracket in place, but I had to mount it sideways, as the Powertank takes up a lot of room on the siderack
First aid kit all mounted up
Rear shot with the 73 liter Alu-Box in the rear now, door now will close and not hit any cargo with the first aid kit relocated
The 60 liter Alu-Box in place along with the Thetford porta-potty on top, but I may has mentioned earlier put the two Alu-Boxes there together
Stay tuned for the carrying of firewood solution...
Member III
Looking good...Relocated Fire Extinguisher & First Aid Kit 3-17-2018
With my Outer Limits Supply First Aid kit on the rear door it protrudes too far into the cargo area when you shut the door.
In order to relocate it I had to move my fire extinguisher to a better location, and I choose next to the fridge on the seat back.
I am not sure what kind of metal is behind the plastic you drill into, but in the past I have broken off drill bits, and today was the same.
I ruined two new drill bits I had bought awhile back when I got a new Ryobi drill.
With the fire extinguisher moved, I could now take off the first aid kit and move it next to the Powertank.
I had to turn it sideways though, and it is a little harder to active the pull strap, but I can still get it off the Springtail siderack OK.
Now I have plenty of room in the back next to the Trail Kitchens chuckbox.
I can have my big 73 liter Alu-Box there that contains misc. camping supplies, but there is not enough room on top of of it to put the 60 later Alu-Box I used for non refrigerated food.
I do have a 42 liter Alu-Box that might fit on top, but it is a little too short to hold all of the food.
I may put the 73 and 60 liter Alu-Boxes on top of each other behind the passenger seat, as they will stack there since they are lower and not sitting on top of the Goose Gear cargobox.
I will experiment more when it gets close to camping season, and when I will be leaving the Alu-Boxes in the rig full time.
If I do leave the two Alu-Boxes up front, that will give me plenty of room in the rear for the Thetford crapper, a propane shower, and more gear.
This season the rig is going to be the best organized it has ever been.
It was so crowded inside last season, and I only had room for one bundle of firewood.
The solution for carrying lots of firewood is in the next mod to my rig, it should be landing this coming Wednesday, and I hope to get it installed next Saturday, and will update my thread here with it.
Pics:
Old location next to the Powertank
Bracket installed next to the fridge, and yes, my two broken drill bits are still inside of the metal that is underneath the top plastic, time to buy another set of drills
Fire extinguisher in its new home
Old location of the Outer Limits Supply Weekend Warrior first aid kit
With first aid kit removed, nothing is sticking out to take up precious cargo space when the door is shut
Quick release bracket in place, but I had to mount it sideways, as the Powertank takes up a lot of room on the siderack
First aid kit all mounted up
Rear shot with the 73 liter Alu-Box in the rear now, door now will close and not hit any cargo with the first aid kit relocated
The 60 liter Alu-Box in place along with the Thetford porta-potty on top, but I may has mentioned earlier put the two Alu-Boxes there together
Stay tuned for the carrying of firewood solution...
