• Guest, UPDATE We went through the site migration runbook and completed all steps. We will need to complete the migration next week, but will leave the forums up for the weekend. A few days after maintenance, a major upgrade revision to the forum site will occur.
  • HTML tutorial

70 K20 Suburban

Rusty burbin

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

This build takes the phase "built, not bought" to a whole new level IMHO.
I agree and thank you... its a matter of finances really [emoji2]. When you're basically broke ya gotta build it to save money! One cool side benifit of that philosophy is that I can tell my wife something like this... "Ya know babe, I can buy the part and install it or I can buy a welder and make the part myself for the same price." I've accumulating some pretty nifty tools over the years. [emoji106]

Jonah "Rustyburbin" #4084.
5 kids, a wife, dog and a
1970 K20 Suburban
 

adventure_is_necessary

Rocky Mountain Region Local Expert Kansas
Member

Traveler III

I agree and thank you... its a matter of finances really [emoji2]. When you're basically broke ya gotta build it to save money! One cool side benifit of that philosophy is that I can tell my wife something like this... "Ya know babe, I can buy the part and install it or I can buy a welder and make the part myself for the same price." I've accumulating some pretty nifty tools over the years. [emoji106]

Jonah "Rustyburbin" #4084.
5 kids, a wife, dog and a
1970 K20 Suburban
Hey I can dig it! This build thread has given me more motivation to fab up my own stuff for my M715
 

Rusty burbin

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

Hey I can dig it! This build thread has given me more motivation to fab up my own stuff for my M715
I'm an inspiration! LOL! [emoji23] [emoji12]

Any pics of M715?

Jonah "Rustyburbin" #4084.
5 kids, a wife, dog and a
1970 K20 Suburban
 

Rusty burbin

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

Seeing the frame twist like that gives me the willies....
Yeah man, looking back I wish I wouldn't have lifted it so high. I'm really lucky that it didn't do any damage... live and learn I guess. [emoji53]

Jonah "Rustyburbin" #4084.
5 kids, a wife, dog and a
1970 K20 Suburban
 

adventure_is_necessary

Rocky Mountain Region Local Expert Kansas
Member

Traveler III

Yeah man, looking back I wish I wouldn't have lifted it so high. I'm really lucky that it didn't do any damage... live and learn I guess. [emoji53]

Jonah "Rustyburbin" #4084.
5 kids, a wife, dog and a
1970 K20 Suburban
Wonder if you could box in the frame, assuming you already haven’t? Maybe some more crossmembers? I have a feeling with the weight of the body and contents that you would be ok, but just from a rigidity standpoint, boxed in frames are stronger
 

darthyota

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

Adding an interior cage would also add alot of rigidity, but also keep in mind there are vehicles out there that rely on their frame flex that are monsters offroad, both the Unimog and the Pinzgaur are great examples of this.
 
Last edited:

Rusty burbin

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

Bumpstops figured out. It looks like my shock body might hit the bumpstop can at full droop, I sure hope not. I won't know for sure until I cut, curve and lengthen my shackles so I can actually achieve full droop. But I like the results so far... just 3 more to build!




I had to build a contact point onto my u-bold plate to get everything to work.








Jonah "Rustyburbin" #4084.
5 kids, a wife, dog and a
1970 K20 Suburban
 

darthyota

Rank IV

Enthusiast III

If you are really that curious to see if its going to touch make a spacer the same thickness as your leaf pack minus the main leaf, then disassemble the pack leaving only the main leaf and your spacer installed. Cycle your suspension and check for clearances, make sure you've got a solid 3/8" of space between everything as that will ensure that if you're really given'er on the trail everything should still maintain a safe clearance.
 

Rusty burbin

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

If you are really that curious to see if its going to touch make a spacer the same thickness as your leaf pack minus the main leaf, then disassemble the pack leaving only the main leaf and your spacer installed. Cycle your suspension and check for clearances, make sure you've got a solid 3/8" of space between everything as that will ensure that if you're really given'er on the trail everything should still maintain a safe clearance.
You're right about that... unfortunately that won't make any difference with my stock shackles as they hit the bracelets and won't allow full droop, hence "cut, curve and lengthen". Its all good at full compression.

Jonah "Rustyburbin" #4084.
5 kids, a wife, dog and a
1970 K20 Suburban
 

PNW EXPLR

Local Expert Southeast Washington, USA
Member
Investor

Explorer I

This my friend is an awesome project. I have always wanted an old Sburb. Keep the pictures and progress coming.
 

Rusty burbin

Rank V
Launch Member

Member III

Dont waste your time trying to re-work the stock shackles when you can just buy what you need, provided the leaf spring width is correct.
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep-boomerang-lift-shackles-rc0403.html
I'd need something more like this only curved like to one you mentioned (I've looked around and can't find any for sale).

http://www.roughcountry.com/lowering-shackles-rc0501.html


The other, better option is a shackle flip but I'd need my Deavers would have to be remade/replaced and I'm not sure I want to take the time or spend the money when I can modify my stock shackles... I want to lower it a little bit anyhow so it kinda makes sense to me. I'll post picks of the modified shackles when I get to them (hopefully this weekend)

Jonah "Rustyburbin" #4084.
5 kids, a wife, dog and a
1970 K20 Suburban
 
Top