Enthusiast III
2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Build
- Thread starter tjZ06
- Start date
Enthusiast I
I just resealed my wife's 2006 WK 4.7. It wasn't to bad. I'm not sure when they changed over, but her timing cover was all RTV (no rubber seals).
Advocate I
I see zero evidence of any leaking on the t-cover, so I wasn't going to mess with it as this snowball is already growing. That said, I sort of just decided I'm going to do the front crank seal, so the balancer will be one more thing that will be already out of the way. To do the passenger-side valve cover I'll need the AC compressor out of the way... so that will pretty much leave just the alternator to just go ahead and do the front timing cover reseal. Hmmmm...
-TJ
Advocate I
Looking up parts on my 4.7 they list 2 versions, a "1st design" with the gasket and a "2nd design" that comes with RVT, no gasket (both have the O-rings, just a question of whether they're separate with RTV or if they're part of the overall gasket). I guess I won't know which mine has until I take it off... darn it I'm starting to think I better just do it.
-TJ
Advocate I
Advocate I
Well, while sitting here down in the Bay Area (2.5hrs from home and the Jeep) I've decided I'll do the front cover reseal. Either way, got some stuff done before I had to leave for the Bay Area... of course it seems like I'll be un-doing some of it.
Removed the battery, battery tray and TCM/bracket to make it easier (or, possible at all) to do the passenger side valve cover:
I've been meaning to do this anyway to clean the corrosion from a failed/leaking battery and hit the raw areas with a rust preventative. The rust you see here is the ONLY rust on the whole rig:
Also did the ZJ washer-bottle mod. I had to clean up/fix a few wires from where the tire had rubbed them previously, but it came out pretty clean and clears well:
-TJ
Removed the battery, battery tray and TCM/bracket to make it easier (or, possible at all) to do the passenger side valve cover:
I've been meaning to do this anyway to clean the corrosion from a failed/leaking battery and hit the raw areas with a rust preventative. The rust you see here is the ONLY rust on the whole rig:
Also did the ZJ washer-bottle mod. I had to clean up/fix a few wires from where the tire had rubbed them previously, but it came out pretty clean and clears well:
-TJ
Enthusiast I
My wife's listed it for o-rings and RTV. The kit came with RTV along with the o-rings. I picked up some extra, but the stuff that came with the kit was good and there was plenty. The kit For hers was FEL-PRO TCS46022 from Rock Auto.
Advocate I
Thanks, I ordered both options from Rock Auto, also went with FEL-PRO. Now, do I go ahead and do a timing set if I'm going to have the valve covers and front cover off...
-TJ
Enthusiast III
Go to your closest Mopar shop and get a tube of 3-bond. It is by far the best engine sealant i have ever used. Hondabond a close second.
Advocate I
TJ,
I know how you feel and I am only towards the end of the parts buying stage for my cooling mod.... the stack of parts is growing exponentially.
I figure with over 135k on the 4.7s clock, I'll likely be replacing the engine within 5-7 years anyway (if lucky!!) so I am only going so far.
Other than motor mounts, my other extra is to replace the oil pan gasket since it leaks pretty bad when going up hill.
JImbill
Advocate I
Also did the ZJ washer-bottle mod. I had to clean up/fix a few wires from where the tire had rubbed them previously, but it came out pretty clean and clears well:
-TJ
Looks good. Did the '99 high pressure line standard threads match the steering box?
Advocate I
Thanks, that's a great tip. One of the FEL-PRO kits comes with RTV, but I'll run the Mopar stuff.
Yeah, I hadn't planned to get into the front cover, but now that y'all mention it and I look at how little extra work it is I guess I'd be crazy not to. The timing set is another thing though. I think if there's no signs of wear, all the guides look okay and no obvious excess slop I'll leave it alone... but perhaps that's crazy too?
I actually have a brand new oil pan gasket (w/ windage tray) and even an oil pan sitting at home that I originally bought for my other WJ, which didn't need it (it was just a front main seal). Since the pan would be done from the bottom and I'm not "almost there" I'm not going to tackle it at this time, I want to get this thing back on the road and start enjoying it soon!
To my surprise, it fit perfectly. I had concerns but it worked great. The pics don't do a great job of showing it but everything is going to lay-out perfectly to go back to the stock, giant PS cooler too. Also, I forgot to mention I hit the areas where a previous battery had leaked with battery terminal cleaner a few times. They're 98% clean now, but I'm going to go back with some denatured alcohol and scotch-brite, then hit them with a rust-prohibitive paint.
One other note: it looked like two of the three fittings down at the bottom of my hydraulic fan were weeping ever-so-slightly. I honestly think they'd just come a little loose over the years based on how easily they came off. It wasn't even enough of a leak to collect in the skid-plate or anything, and I think a good snug-up would have taken care of it. We still have the other WJ, and I haven't even finished installing this e-fan setup on this one, so I'm not ready to get rid of the hydraulic stuff yet... but at some point I should have a perfectly good WJ 4.7 HO hydraulic fan assembly complete w/ lines, shroud, etc. to keep another WJ'er going.
That, or IF I prove this setup works I can provide the exact part numbers for everything I got. Most of the links are back on Page 2, and I bought a ton of extra stuff, but if you actually buy just what is required for the swap the cost isn't horrendous:
- Radiator - $225
- Fans & Shroud with PWM - $469
- Derale Universal Plate Cooler Mount (it's intended for mounting oil coolers, but is perfect to mount this exact fan/shroud assembly to this exact radiator) - $18
- '99 JGC with 4.7 Power Steering Pump (Mopar Reman) - $130
- PS high pressure line pump to box (Gates - tried to get name-brand wherever Mopar wasn't an option, probably would have went AC Delco but it was delayed) - $17
- OPTIONAL: PS low pressure line box to cooler (FWIW I could have re-used the stock line, but I wanted all new) - $9
- OPTIONAL: PS low pressure line cooler back to pump (only real no-name I got, but it was the only option and it's low pressure... FWIW I 100% could have re-used the stock line for this run also, but again I wanted all new) - $11
Total with the other 2 PS lines: $879 (+tax/shipping)
In the end I will have spent many hundreds more on things like the water pump, tstat & housing, all new radiator and heater hoses, valve cover gaskets, front cover seal (and maybe timing set...?), battery tray, etc. But that's not *required* stuff to get rid of the hydraulic fan. So, yes nearly $1k is a lot for a cooling mod for a WJ... but IF you can find the hydraulic fan setup new they run $1000-1200 at a min. If I was spending that kind of money I'd want a new PS pump, all new lines, etc. with it to ensure the system is totally fresh... so you're probably $1500 in parts to stay hydraulic.
-TJ
Advocate I
Well, I couldn't stand the idea of not doing it right... so I ordered a timing set (Cloyes), hydraulic lash adjusters (most ppl call them "lifters" but they're not of course on these SOHC motors), spark plugs and a few other misc odds 'n ends...
...maybe I should just pull it and rebuild it? :p ;)
-TJ
...maybe I should just pull it and rebuild it? :p ;)
-TJ
Advocate I
At this point you are not far from a long block, especially if you factor in your labor and vehicle downtime.
Advocate I
Yeah, I was just kidding about that. But like I said I'm doing the timing set and the lash adjusters. I just could not justify having the front cover and valve covers off and NOT doing them. This whole Jeep has been meticulously maintained, so I hope the rest of the longblock has another 100k in it...
-TJ
Advocate I
Traveler III
There is a special tool to hold the chain in place while you line everything up and also one for taking the lash adjusters out without taking out the cam shafts. Did you ever overheat at all when it started leaking coolant?
Advocate I
I bought the complete tool kit, including that tool. Luckily no, it didn't ever overheat (I did do a combustion gas test on the cooling system before I began any of this to check for head gasket issues and it came back clean).
-TJ
Traveler III
The biggest problem is that the valve seats will come out and destroy the engine within a year of it is ever overheated. You can buy reman heads that have revised valve seats.
