Where are the 80/20 extrusion experts? Now with build pics

[zgfiredude]

Ok, let's discuss my plan and you all can pick it apart or offer suggestions! You are going to have to use your fabrication imagination here, LOL.

First, the vehicle: 2014 Jeep JK Unlimited (the 4 door for the non-Jeep crowd).

Background: The limited space in the back of a JK means that you have to plan carefully. I've had a "shelf" across the back area that has been well used and nice to have. We throw all the light weight camping extras up there (chairs, tent when we take it, potty shelter, sun screen/shade, etc...mostly soft goods) and it has recently been the mounting point for a power inverter. It's useful and effective, BUT given that it's at a fixed height, mounting the new fridge below it will be a squeeze.

The Idea: Let's start over with the rear compartment design and go more modular/custom built with 80/20 extruded aluminum! What I am wanting to incorporate are the following: new Dometic fridge on a slide, the aux (house) battery, and create a new "shelf "over the fridge for use as described above. We use FrontRunner Wolf Pack boxes for other storage and want to continue with them as well, so ideally the space to the side of the fridge will accommodate them well, and hopefully 4 of them. Finally, and perhaps the kicker of the design is that I do use the under floor cubby and don't want to lose access to it if possible.

So, my thought is to create a "U" shape base if you will out of 1" 80/20 that would mount to the floor using the factory tie down points in the floor on the sides and across the back of the back seat. To this, I'd mount another second story level base that would hinge at the front so that if required I could get to the floor cubby, and that I can mount heavy duty drawer slides to for the fridge. That second tier if you will would be a full 4 sided affair with 1 additional fore/aft bar for the inside fridge slide. Getting the fridge tight to the driver's side rear with the hopes that the remaining space adjacent to the fridge could/would hold the 4 FrontRunner boxes up to appx the same overall height.......

I can then go vertical with the structure to "enclose" the fridge/create a space for the boxes/and then the "shelf" to support the camping stuff. Sounds simple, right? LOL

I hope my description makes sense, looking for advice on my theory, and any 80/20 specific thoughts or tips. Fire away with questions and thoughts and let's design this thing!

 

[reaver]

8020 is going to be heavy. With the payload capacity of a jeep, that's not going to leave much payload for gear.

Honestly, a good quality 1/2 in or 3/4 plywood would be lighter, just as strong, and take up less space.

Not to mention it would be cheaper. While I like the idea of a modular config, if you think about it ahead of time, you can plan versatility into the wood design as well.

I'm not telling you not to go with 8020, but like everything else, there are pros and cons to using it.

 

[zgfiredude]

Hhmmm, 80/20 will be heavier than wood? That comes as a surprise to me.

 

[reaver]

Hhmmm, 80/20 will be heavier than wood? That comes as a surprise to me.

Believe it or not, yes. I was originally going to frame my drawer system with 8020,but when I looked at weight and cost, it was both lighter, and considerably less expensive to build out of wood.

 

[zgfiredude]

@reaver got me thinking.........that's a good thing and the point of the post!

Looking up the weight of 1" 80/20 gives me +/- 1/2 pound per foot. Seat of the pants guesstimate of what I'm kind of thinking is 42 feet (which is more than it would take) so that's 21 pounds. This is a fair amount less weight than the old steel shelf that I removed.......add in for the sliders and fridge tray, and for some kind of infill on the top to make the shelf, and I think it would still weigh less than the old shelf.

Part of what got me thinking of all this, was the weight of the dometic fridge slide at close to 40 pounds! I think I can create this whole thing for less than 30 pounds which is still a bit less than the old shelf......and eliminates the heavy pre-built fridge slider. Don't get me wrong, I agree that doing it out of some nice baltic birch ply would be easier and cheaper and faster, but I don't think it would be lighter.

I'll weigh the old shelf and associated hardware to verify things. Thanks for the thoughts! I will (as I develop the design) have to create a price list of the 80/20 to see where that lands.....which I know will be a shock!

Edit: that same 42 feet of just the extrusion is $185! No hardware in that figure.

 

[zgfiredude]

True story on the construction and on the double Yeti approach......but the weight of two Yetis and all that ice plus the volume of space needed makes it unattractive.

Most of the time we pull an off road teardrop trailer.....it has a Yeti with the cocktail ice This is for food on most trips, and for everything on the Jeep only trips. I'm covering multiple scenarios here.

 

[Akicita]

I think your ideas on using "80/20" are good ones. I have used the 1" aluminum extrusion ( 10 series) from Tnutz on many builds and have found it both light weight and more durable than plywood builds for off-road use. I would recommend you plan your design using the smaller 10 series size than the 20 series. A design with the smaller 10 series frame will definitely come in lighter and will hold up to more abuse than a plywood box design.

 

[MazeVX]

I'm planning to do almost the same thing as you in the same car, but with wood.
Going to start soon so I will keep you posted with my experience.
This will be the 2.5 iteration of storage for the jeep.

 

[reaver]

It all comes down to the configuration. Good on you for doing the math, and I stand corrected on the weight.

Perhaps the last time I was handling it, I was working with 15 or 20 series without realizing it.

 

[Kent R]

Being a wood worker I was naturally drawn to using wood but one of Brads videos changed my mind. I am really glad I used 80/20 and would do it again.

Brads video;

 

[smritte]

Love my fridge. Will never go back to an ice chest.
I like 80/20 because how easy it is to use. The T-Slots on my roof rack make it so I can add and remove diffrent brackets. went another route for my drawer system.

 

[Speric]

I think your ideas on using "80/20" are good ones. I have used the 1" aluminum extrusion ( 10 series) from Tnutz on many builds and have found it both light weight and more durable than plywood builds for off-road use. I would recommend you plan your design using the smaller 10 series size than the 20 series. A design with the smaller 10 series frame will definitely come in lighter and will hold up to more abuse than a plywood box design.

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Nice cabinet. What did you use for the paneling and counter tops? I really like the look.

 

[Akicita]

Nice cabinet. What did you use for the paneling and counter tops? I really like the look.

I used 1/2" plywood tooled to fit the Series 10 groove and finished with two coats of roll on Raptor Liner.

 

[Dave Snyder]

This is an awesome thread. Definitely gives me something to think about as I plan the build out of my RAM.

 

[zgfiredude]

I'm still mulling over design ideas and am now thinking that my desire to maintain the access to the floor cubby just might be making my initial thoughts too complicated. I thinks I'll finally have some time tomorrow to take some serious measurements and see what comes of that.

I had another idea on design that is more simple, and another that may make the cubby accessible another way....stay tuned for post measurement thoughts. Thanks for the input thus far, super helpful.

 

[Akicita]

I'm still mulling over design ideas and am now thinking that my desire to maintain the access to the floor cubby just might be making my initial thoughts too complicated. I thinks I'll finally have some time tomorrow to take some serious measurements and see what comes of that.

I had another idea on design that is more simple, and another that may make the cubby accessible another way....stay tuned for post measurement thoughts. Thanks for the input thus far, super helpful.

If you ever get to the East slope I'd be happy to kick some ideas around with you and show you some of the materials I use for builds. . . I'm north of Denver, about 30 miles. I've designed and built several JK & JL kitchen boxes, decks, and seat deletes.

 

[OTH Overland]

I'm still mulling over design ideas and am now thinking that my desire to maintain the access to the floor cubby just might be making my initial thoughts too complicated. I thinks I'll finally have some time tomorrow to take some serious measurements and see what comes of that.

I had another idea on design that is more simple, and another that may make the cubby accessible another way....stay tuned for post measurement thoughts. Thanks for the input thus far, super helpful.

On my JK, I also wanted to use the cubby space, I build my drawer system with the drawer stack and fridge raised 3-1/2" off the floor of the jeep in the back. A center divider creates two deep pockets where I stash a small folding table, two front runner chairs and during winter my diesel heater hose. as this space has no bottom, I can reach in and stuff goodies in the cubby below that I access often (guy lines & stakes, road flares, hammer etc.) We have deleted the rear seat, added a platform and have storage under the 60 percent side with tote storage above, electronics under the 40 percent side with a camera gear cabinet above. has worked out well and will only make a few small adjustments when we build version 2.0 this spring. currently debating on using ultra light plywood vs welded alum or steel frame with thin composite panels glued in place.

 

[MattyIce517]

Ok, let's discuss my plan and you all can pick it apart or offer suggestions! You are going to have to use your fabrication imagination here, LOL.

First, the vehicle: 2014 Jeep JK Unlimited (the 4 door for the non-Jeep crowd).

Background: The limited space in the back of a JK means that you have to plan carefully. I've had a "shelf" across the back area that has been well used and nice to have. We throw all the light weight camping extras up there (chairs, tent when we take it, potty shelter, sun screen/shade, etc...mostly soft goods) and it has recently been the mounting point for a power inverter. It's useful and effective, BUT given that it's at a fixed height, mounting the new fridge below it will be a squeeze.

The Idea: Let's start over with the rear compartment design and go more modular/custom built with 80/20 extruded aluminum! What I am wanting to incorporate are the following: new Dometic fridge on a slide, the aux (house) battery, and create a new "shelf "over the fridge for use as described above. We use FrontRunner Wolf Pack boxes for other storage and want to continue with them as well, so ideally the space to the side of the fridge will accommodate them well, and hopefully 4 of them. Finally, and perhaps the kicker of the design is that I do use the under floor cubby and don't want to lose access to it if possible.

So, my thought is to create a "U" shape base if you will out of 1" 80/20 that would mount to the floor using the factory tie down points in the floor on the sides and across the back of the back seat. To this, I'd mount another second story level base that would hinge at the front so that if required I could get to the floor cubby, and that I can mount heavy duty drawer slides to for the fridge. That second tier if you will would be a full 4 sided affair with 1 additional fore/aft bar for the inside fridge slide. Getting the fridge tight to the driver's side rear with the hopes that the remaining space adjacent to the fridge could/would hold the 4 FrontRunner boxes up to appx the same overall height.......

I can then go vertical with the structure to "enclose" the fridge/create a space for the boxes/and then the "shelf" to support the camping stuff. Sounds simple, right? LOL

I hope my description makes sense, looking for advice on my theory, and any 80/20 specific thoughts or tips. Fire away with questions and thoughts and let's design this thing!

Following this thread, looking to do the same for my 16 JKU!

 

[zgfiredude]

Ok, I have been mulling over different design thoughts and comparing them to the rough measurements of the rear area that I had taken.....I feel like I have a plan. I have also been mired in trying to get EXACT measurements in order to order the extrusion........it came to me that was a dumb waste of time! It will only create a pretty darn good chance of failure and the amount of "custom built" in this simply needs to allow for some flexibility in materials, duh!

I have simplified the design to do away with the hinged aspect. Too complex and too much material for really no net gain of consequence. I will build it "to the floor" and space it above the floor surface just a bit...thanks @OTH Overland for that!! I'll figure out a more simple way to access the cubby once the thing is built. I feel like I may be able to fit things just how I'd hoped, but it will be tight...I'll be carefully measuring and laying things out physically tomorrow to confirm what my sketches and day-dreaming design work has come up with. I have carefully made a parts list and prices out the whole thing, and it's a bit more than I originally thought, but not unreasonable....it's the darn hardware and brackets that are expensive!

What sucks about living in the sticks like we do, is that virtually everything has to be ordered in, we just don't have any access to "running down to the store" to grab something. Anyway, stand by as I try to confirm my design tomorrow. And place an order!!

 

[zgfiredude]

OK, after an epiphany that woke me from a dead sleep the other night, I have placed the order for the extrusions!

Once it arrives I will do my best to document the build and it's successes and struggles. Once I get to the photos I will try to explain some of my design hurdles when you can visualize better. Stay tuned!