The Perfect Camp Stove

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Dave in AZ

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I found that most people overestimate the power requirements for induction cooking and massively underestimate the inefficiency of propane – the slightest wind can bring efficiency down way below 1/3 of the efficiency of induction. Even taking the number above regarding a 20lbs bottle having 95 times the energy of a 100Ah 12V battery, following that math means 43 times the capacity I have, at best efficiency for the propane that would result in about 14 times usable power. And that's in the best of circumstances, no wind and a good stove or range – the efficiency number is from the Department of Energy for home use. Which doesn't account for wind driving the flame away from your pot – which can easily take away another 50 to 80% of the produced heat.

Most of my cooking happens at 400 to 600W according to my Kill-A-Watt meter. Initial heat up with 1200 to 1500W, I don't go full high since I don't want to kill my pots and pans, then I can turn it down significantly. We heat water with an electric kettle, it's not as fast as a MSR Windburner, but not much slower either.

I've tracked a few things I regularly cook regarding their power consumption:

TaskAh needed
Boiling water for coffee or tea for two people, three to four times a day5Ah per two big mugs
Cooking scrambled eggs, no other incredients, we will do this only sometimes, not every day5Ah
Cooking a one pan dish with chicken, vegetables, rice (pre-cooked rice)up to 40Ah (but that's an upper limit, did it twice, one was around 30Ah, the other around 37Ah, it depends on the incredients)
Cooking noodles for two15Ah
Re-heating left overs5Ah to 10Ah
Scrambled eggs with veggies (including mushrooms which take rather long on high(ish) heat to evaparate moisture and cook down a bit)20Ah

So, most of these take a max of 20% of my overall battery capacity. We rarely ever drive less than two hours per day which would re-charge 50% of the total capacity I have which I have so far not ever used in a single day. Plus there is solar. Currently I don't have solar installed, but plan on a 150W CIGS panel at some point. That should extend the time we could stay in a single place to three days depending on weather. We haven't stayed longer than two days in a single place so far.

Oh, and IF we go into a hotel, we can use our gear in the room to cook there ...
Great info!
You sound like you might like my testing post for how much Watt-hrs used by various cooking devices. Here is a link:
 
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cug

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You sound like you might like my testing post for how much Watt-hrs used by various cooking devices. Here is a link:
It's an interesting post, although I have doubts. You seem to completely ignore losses due to the fact that wtih open flame heating 60% or more of the energy is used not to heat the "cooking vessel" but the surrounding air where it's gone pretty much immediately – other than the mostly irrelevant "side warming" of the pots sidewalls. With direct contact methods like induction, or basically all electric methods other than an electric heat gun, which I hope nobody uses for cooking.

This:

Actual device efficiency is NOT the critical factor!
I agree that device efficiency is less relevant, but the losses that are inherent in one method versus the other prohibit pure mathmatical evaluation of the different methods unless you can quantify the losses, which can only be done in a controlled environment, so for example with a fan next to the stove to simulate wind in a reproducible way.

Basing the calculation on the raw energy content of the energy source does not work.

Please correct me if I'm wrong on this.
 
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cug

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I like your argument for induction, @cug, but I'm so used to cooking with flame that I'm not sure I want to switch away... I own a Camp Chef something, but dislike the lack of flame control. Might keep it for a kid's hand-me-down, but I won't be using it again.
There are three big downsides with induction cooking (at least those are the one I saw as obstacles on the way to get there):
  • The need for a much more capable electrical system. That includes batteries, cables, charging, inverter, outlets, etc. It's a cost thing more than a weight thing. Most people have at least a single 100Ah battery in their vehicle, plus an inverter to run certain loads. A second battery plus the difference of a larger inverter is very similar to an 11lbs propane bottle.
  • The need for different "cooking vessels" – namely pots and pans. But also percolators, mokka pots, kettles, etc. This adds up as well, although is less problematic than the rest of the system.
  • You have to provide the charging power from somewhere. A combination of solar, alternator, and shore power can be used, and you can get away with 30A DCDC charging if you're driving every day or solar is big enough. We started out with 30A DCDC charging without solar and it worked FOR OUR USECASE.
Open flame has more "camping appeal", but I've gone away from it wherever possible due to the inherent inefficiency of the heat transfer and the health aspect. Natural gas stoves in homes leak most of the toxic gases while they are turned off, so even owning one and having it connected will pollute your house. Is it a problem? I think so, yes, but it's up to you to come to your own conclusion on this.

There are many, many convenience things you never knew you missed, like insane temperature control no matter the surroundings,; once you start induction cooking, it's hard to go to anything else.

You can try it out at home in your backyard with a $60 to $100 induction plate and see whether it works for you. It's a cheap experiment, that might lead into a rabbit hole of follow-up complexities, but once done, it's awesome.
 
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Dave in AZ

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It's an interesting post, although I have doubts. You seem to completely ignore losses due to the fact that wtih open flame heating 60% or more of the energy is used not to heat the "cooking vessel" but the surrounding air where it's gone pretty much immediately – other than the mostly irrelevant "side warming" of the pots sidewalls. With direct contact methods like induction, or basically all electric methods other than an electric heat gun, which I hope nobody uses for cooking).

This:



I agree that device efficiency is less relevant, but the losses that are inherent in one method versus the other prohibit pure mathmatical evaluation of the different methods unless you can quantify the losses, which can only be done in a controlled environment, so for example with a fan next to the stove to simulate wind in a reproducible way.

Basing the calculation on the raw energy content of the energy source does not work.

Please correct me if I'm wrong on this.
Nope, you are correct. Problem is indeed actual quantifying of propane used, which is why real world tests of accomplishing actual cooking tasks, then weighing propane left, is best method I can guesstimate.

Like you, I am trying to be able to do electric cooking. However, the issue is that energy storage ( battery content/recharge limits) ARE a factor for electric, while they are NOT a factor for propane-- even if efficiency or use calculation is wildly off, by 300% say, the size/weight/days-use of propane just blows the battery away. For me, the limiting factor requirement is 3 or 4 days use without recharge. And I can get there without any scrimping or budgeting or worry, using a 5lb propane bottle. But it's still constant worry and budgets with battery.
I only have 1100 lbs total payload on my Tacoma, 870 of which is used by Tune camper and 3 peeps leaving just 230 gear... I can't just throw in another 100 lbs of battery if needed :( So I continue to research, weigh, and test.
 
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cug

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However, the issue is that energy storage ( battery content/recharge limits) ARE a factor for electric, while they are NOT a factor for propane
That's where my comment comes in regarding the way you travel. We seem to travel very differently. I have no need to store more capacity than for a maximum of two days at one place. Three to four days, that's more than I personally need, but let's calculate whether I could do this:
  • Capacity available 200Ah in LFP batteries, so I have no problem going down to 10% or so capacity. Let's say 180Ah usable capacity.
  • The way we eat while traveling is:
    • Cold breakfast (Müsli) with a hot beverage, usually coffee: 5Ah
    • Bread with cheese and other cold stuff during the day, two more breaks with hot beverage, either tea or coffee: 2x 5Ah
    • Stop for the day in the afternoon somewhere, getting comfortable, prepping dinner, another hot beverage: 5Ah
    • Full on dinner, the maximum I've ever used to cook this is 40Ah
  • Running the fridge depends on outside temperature, but let's say another 20Ah per 24h period
  • Assorted small stuff: another 10Ah from our own experience, we are reasonably frugal, but let's say another 15Ah
That means, we are using a max of 95Ah battery per 24h period at max. We've never gotten there, since we generally don't always cook this complicated, or we have a charcoal grill with us, or other reasons. But for the sake of argument, let's run with 95Ah per day.

That wouldn't even give us two high use days with the 180Ah usable capacity I specified in the beginning.

Now, for us to stay at a place for longer, it would mean it's beautiful and the weather is great, otherwise I'm not interested in staying in that place. Wtih that said:
  • Let's go with 5h of sunlight for a 200W panel, 60% average output over the day.
  • Let's add a portable solar blanket (which I'm happy to set up if I stay in a single place for that time) of another 120W at 60% for 5h.
  • The above points add up to 60% of 320W for the very short five hours of sunlight: 960Wh or 80Ah supplemented by solar
  • Let's be even more conservative and half that number: 40Ah supplemented by solar per day.
That means I'm using up my capacity at a net rate of 55Ah per day and I have roughly 3.5 of my high usage days. Works for me.

Now, if I also want to have a warm shower every two days for the two of us, we'd be down to 3 days of capacity with conservative solar calculation. Again, works for me.

If I wanted to make sure I'd have enough capacity for four to five days, I'd add another battery. Let's say I'm very weight conscious and use these:

3x LiTime 100Ah 12V Mini

That's 60lbs of batteries total, granted, so payload is a concern, but again, it depends on the individual setup. This would give me nearly two more days of use for the above calculation. Five days of high use and low solar output – no issues for me.

And it comes down to another thing in the style of travel: If we stay in a place for longer, it's normally a place with amenities, meaning shore power, showers, ... but that might be just us. We use these days in a campground or at a motel/hotel to do laundry, relax, go out, clean up properly, etc. For the rest of the time, we are traveling pretty much every day or we aren't using much since we are on day hikes or so and have a small camping cookset with us.

Sorry, I keep editing this to be a) more realistic and b) add some more insight into our thinking.

Another point: our setup uses a single source of fuel that needs to be replenished: diesel. The truck is diesel, the heater uses diesel, cooking is done with elecdtricity generated by the truck or solar. I NEVER have think about getting anything but diesel even on a year long trip.

And to not pollute this thread any further: I'm happy to keep discussing this in a specific thread and will not comment any further here to let people go back to finding the perfect propane stove if they so chose.
 
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CR-Venturer

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As it's my solemn duty to present the "ghetto" bargain basement option when it comes to overlanding, I present to you, the classic Coleman 2 burner:
workchanneldinner.jpg
I picked it up on Facebook Marketplace for $20 canuck bucks and I've used it for years in all kinds of weather and locations with zero problems with the stove itself. It cooks well, produces plenty of heat, has nice wind shields (which can be extended to accommodate wider pans, as shown in the photo, a feature I love), and it packs up quickly and easily. My only minor gripe is that it's a little on the wide side, although this is a double edged sword, as it allows wider pans.

I run it with the 5lb propane tank pictured in the bottom right. Great combination that runs for ages.
 
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Dave in AZ

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Dave
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Mac
As it's my solemn duty to present the "ghetto" bargain basement option when it comes to overlanding, I present to you, the classic Coleman 2 burner:
View attachment 274630
I picked it up on Facebook Marketplace for $20 canuck bucks and I've used it for years in all kinds of weather and locations with zero problems with the stove itself. It cooks well, produces plenty of heat, has nice wind shields (which can be extended to accommodate wider pans, as shown in the photo, a feature I love), and it packs up quickly and easily. My only minor gripe is that it's a little on the wide side, although this is a double edged sword, as it allows wider pans.

I run it with the 5lb propane tank pictured in the bottom right. Great combination that runs for ages.
I have the same setup ;)
 
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Ragman

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I've given up on gas stoves. Just not my thing, dealing with wind, open flame, refilling bottles or using throwaways, ... it's just not for me. So, I use this setup now:

View attachment 274555

And just now working on installing a 12V travel oven to add a secondary way of heating things or keeping things warm.

Results have been pretty good so far ...

View attachment 274556
I use that induction burner at home but definitely use the GreenPan Clips when camping-great choice.
 
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jeeper_4_life

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Saw this popup on YouTube. Blackstone camping stove they are releasing. I haven't used a Blackstone so don't have anything to comment, but could be a useful option.

 

Speric

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Saw this popup on YouTube. Blackstone camping stove they are releasing. I haven't used a Blackstone so don't have anything to comment, but could be a useful option.

I've taken my 17" Blackstone griddle camping. It works great depending on what you plan on cooking and you don't need to bring a pan. Just make sure you have something else to boil water. Nice they thought of that side-burner on the first stove.