They are better for your alternator than just directing power to a second battery via a solenoid/relay, which can result in large current flows, especially if one battery is flat.
The amps drawn from your alternator/car battery are fixed by the circuitry of the DCDC, so a 20A unit will only ever draw ~20A, a 50A unit ~50A and so forth.
I would check how much headroom you have between your alternator and the current draw of your car (not including starting), as to how much that is, but 50A is not unreasonable.
The advantages of a DCDC are that it will charge your 2nd battery even if the vehicle's volts is lower than 12v. This is important if you have a smart alternator and/or a stop/start vehicle.
They also provide a better charging profile than the alternator and can cope with different battery types (eg, Lithium) than the alternator and are similar to a mains charger. So it will provide more capacity and longer battery life.
As the current is limited, you only need cables large enough to support the current draw of the DCDC. Voltage drop can be ignored, within reason, as the DCDC will boost that back up to charging voltage.
You can also use most DCDC chargers as an MPPT solar regulator/charger if you connect solar panels.
If your vehicle has a smart alternator, make sure you have the right DCDC, as it will require a lower input voltage and trigger circuit from an "ignition on" wire.
Always connect the DCDC -ve to the vehicle chassis, and not the battery negative terminal, so the current is monitored by the vehicle's shunt.
I use a Redarc BCDC40-LV. It is an old model, and was a prototype from Redarc. No fancy monitoring, it just works. Solar input is via a relay that switches in when the ignition is off. I've been running it continuously for over a year now.