Routing Wire to Your Roof Rack

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Michael

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Hey @jesse_ferrer , I'm posting this "How To" after your question on IG. Feel free to ask any questions about the install. I can provide further pictures etc.

I did quite a bit of research before writing this post. I have a simple need – route power to my roof rack to light up the spotlights without having a rig looking worthy of the Clampetts.

Now the disconcerting thing here is that eventually you are going to have to take a drill to your roof. If you don’t have the stomach for that, your going to have to settle for a gutter-mount wire dangling from your rig – eeesh!

This routing is on the front of the rig, and the wires will run up the front window pillar.

Give yourself plenty of space to work with – you’re going to have some spaghetti.



You need to figure out how to dismantle the headliner of your rig.  For the Land Cruiser, it was pretty straight forward. Take of the handles and bits, and pull out the weatherstripping on the door.



In my case, I also had to pull the weatherstripping from around the sunroof as well:



Once the headliner is loose enough that you can work on the underside – pick a location for your wire routing. This is where you are going to punch through the roof.


Once you locate your spot – take a tap and put a small ding in the roof where you will drill. This will prevent the drill bit from skating across your paint. Don’t hit too hard. You do not want to create a big dent! You can see where i put a ding here:



I used a 7/16 countersink bit for metal. That was the size I needed for the Firewall Grommet – you need to get one of these – it is the cleanest way I have found to pass wires through metal:

 http://bit.ly/16M1OPv



Now the fun part – CAREFULLY DRILL



Install your grommet and run the wires down the window pillar. Put a little weatherstripping glue around the rubber base to make sure you have a waterproof fit. Don’t put so much it oozes out an looks nasty.







Since you have everything apart – go ahead and rout some extra wires. You never know when you will need more power!

Once you have your wiring routed, put it all together. Use wire ties and tubing where needed to have a well finished job.



I found these perfect fit switches at West Marine for $19.00. Factory originals are $60.00. These worked great!

 
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Jesse_Ferrer

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Thanks Michael this helped a lot.  Did you have to upgrade to a bigger battery and do the Big 3, or is the stock battery sufficient  to run all your flood lights?
 

Michael

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8053 said:
Thanks Michael this helped a lot. Did you have to upgrade to a bigger battery and do the Big 3, or is the stock battery sufficient to run all your flood lights?
It is sufficient with a good stock battery, but be very cautious of draining the battery if you are parked. If you have the engine running and all the lights on for a long duration of time, and you immediately turn the lights and engine off, you can wake up the next morning with a dead battery! Not fun if you are in the wild!

M
 

Michael

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Michael
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8053 said:
Thanks Michael this helped a lot. Did you have to upgrade to a bigger battery and do the Big 3, or is the stock battery sufficient to run all your flood lights?
Oh, also, the Hella Rallye 4000 spotlights BARELY fit on the ranger rack. In fact - they point a little high. I have intended to go to a tubing bender to make some notches in the top rail to have more aiming flexibility. You may want to run a smaller, more efficient light.

Make sense?

M
 

Michael

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Michael
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10068 said:
Really like the grommet idea! I definitely need to do some work on my wire routing.
@eric-ryan-davis Right?! I like it to be clean - it is a little gut-wrenching when you take a drill to your sheet metal!

M