Mstudt's x3 Locked 94 Land Cruiser Build/Adventure

[MStudt]

It seems like I've been waiting forever for this thing to arrive. There were a couple of setbacks, but the 80 is finally home.

I had to switch to a different wheel due to an oversight from the original supplier. That oversight lead me to the Black Rhino Chamber wheels paired with the Falken Wildpeak R/T 315/70/17 tire, and I couldn't be happier with that combination. The new Scheel-Mann's are also in, and those were paired with some OEM seat warmer switches.

 

[MStudt]

I've made a little progress on the removal of the woodgrain trim, but it's been slow. I've also run into some issues along the way that needed to be addressed while I was working on the door trim. The rear driver side ashtray was busted up, and has now been replaced. I had to replace both front door handle trim bezels since they were cracked in half. Lastly was fixing the front driver side armrest base, and master switch. The original armrest base was broken, and the master switch was epoxied to a broken trim bezel. All of which have now been replace.

Below are some pictures with woodgrain trim, and some without.

 

[MStudt]

The woodgrain delete is finally complete, and that took longer than I thought it would. I also tested a new prototype tailgate handle that I might put into production, and installed the center diff lock switch.

 

[MStudt]

Not a lot going on with the Cruiser so far, but still making some progress on both old and new issues/repairs.

In early January I found out that both the windshield and rear hatch window were leaking. The rear hatch not so much, but the front was leaking pretty bad. The front windshield had been replaced by the previous owner(s), and there was zero sealant around the glass or body. Both windows have been fixed with new gaskets and sealant.

This past weekend I was able to replace both the gas struts on the rear hatch, and both weatherstrips for the rear. I also managed to get the new Sherpa rook rack mounted, new tailgate handle, and light housing for the license plate.

Part Numbers:
56121-60110 (Weatherstrip, Windshield)
68291-60050 (Weatherstrip , Back Door Glass)
81270-60110 (Lamp Assembly)
67881-60060 (Weatherstip, Back Door)
612987 (Lift Support, Rear)
613377 (Lift Support, Hood Left)
613381 (Lift Support, Hood Right)
OCD Tailgate Handle

 

[MStudt]

The next issue to address is shiftlock related. While pulling dash panels for the oak removal I noticed the shifter would move freely. This was happening without the key in the ignition or without having my foot on the pedal. After a little research I decided to pull the cover off the shiftlock, and found a carpenters pencil in the opening. I was able to rule out fuses, and brake lights as the culprit. Then I crawled under the vehicle to inspect the trailer harness, and found this. Looks like I'll be diving into the rear wire harness this weekend.

 

[MStudt]

Welp, the harness is cleaned up, but the shift lock issue is still an issue. The harness is not in very good shape, and I'm on the hunt for a good replacement. Many of the wires that were exposed have a good amount of corrosion on them, and one wire is missing all together, That wire happens to be one that tie into the rear diff, and might the reason why the rear locker isn't engaging.

Mike

 

[MStudt]

Here's continuation from the previous post. I was able to find a harness locally that need to a little fixing, but the part I needed was in good shape. I was hopeful that replacing my old harness with a good one would fix my issues, but it didn't. At least I have the piece of mind that the harness is fixed.

 

[MStudt]

For the past month or so I was determined to figure out what was going on with the shift lock. First I found a carpenters pencil in the shift lock hole, so you this has been an issue for a while. That lead to the trailer harness, given its condition I thought that was going to be it. After that didn't fix it I moved up front to the center console, and pulled that apart. I did some tests based on the information that I found in the EWD, and concluded that I wasn't getting power from the ECU IG fuse (fuse was good). With help from @jonheld, he pointed me in the correct direction, and found that I didn't have continuity across that wire. I ordered a few pins from Ballenger Motorsports, and had a working shift lock about 20 minutes later.

1-Ground (approx 12v with IG SW at ON) - pulling 11.69 volts (looks good)
3-Ground (approx 12v with IG SW at ON) - pulling .58 volts (looks NOT good)
5-Ground (Continuity) - pulling .4 ohms (looks good)
6-Ground (approx 12v when brake pedal depressed) - pulling 11.86 volts (looks good)

 

[MStudt]

I didn't take hardly any pictures of my latest progress. As you might have seen from previous posts, I have/had electrical issues due to water leaking from the windshield area. I was able to find a used harness (82161-60042) that runs from the ECU along the floor to the back, and get it swapped out last weekend. The swap went well, and all electrical issues are good so far. I even figured out a simply theft deterrent while putting everything back together.

Additionally, I pulled the carpet for a deep cleaning and scrubbing. A little sound deadening was applied to the floor and rear wheel well while everything was pulled apart.

 

[MStudt]

I came across some welting (think that's what it's called) for the door openings this past week, and swapped them in on the four doors. My Cruiser was obviously from a former smoker based on the yellowing seen on most interior parts, and I can't get over the difference in these.

Mike

 

[MStudt]

I've had these Rosen visors sitting on the shelf for a couple of months now, and thought it was about time to get them installed. I made a couple caps to cover the OEM clip locations, and think they turned out pretty good. Seems like I just keep adding things to the maybe production list.