Modular cargo conversion

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grubworm

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ok...long story made even longer...

i owned enclosed trailers when i had my construction company. they are relatively simple and pretty well made and i had one for nearly 20 years and ended up giving it to my neighbor, so their longeviety is pretty good. i also had RVs that were crappy made and leaked like crazy. most RVs seem to have a lot of issues with roof penetrations/seams leaking, plumbing leaks, door and windows leaking and not closing right, etc...

so yeah, like a lot of other folk, i decided to buy a new cargo trailer and turn it into a travel trailer. even though i hate forest river and their crappy RVs...i did end up buying one of their lines of cargo trailers, the Cargo Mate. it does seem to be very well built and the roof and walls are a sandwich composite, so there is no wood to rot and by not having any roof penetrations, i should be leak free. i went with a higher end model that has the inside finished with metal panels and e-tracks. the roof is one piece with no seams and its going to stay that way.

so, to keep this thing bullet proof, i am NOT installing any windows and pretty much all penetrations will be thru the floor. i am making everything modular, so that it is self contained and easy to move in or out and i can change set ups at a moments notice.

for example, my kitchen is going to be a cabinet that has the water tank and sink and everything in one piece that will attach to the wall via the e-track. the shower is going to be up front in the "V" section and will essentially be a big cabinet with the bottom floor being the water tank. the bed will be a platform at the rear with storage underneath. i can open the ramp door and access the storage area from outside and will use netting to enclose the area around the drop down ramp as it will be used as a deck for nice weather.

my whole approach is to keep the trailer as "hole free" as possible and to be able to modify my set up quick and easy. the wife and i travel a good bit and we never stay inside that much, so even with our current RV, we have windows, but always keep the curtains drawn, so whats the point in having a window? if there is a nice view and its pretty enough outside to want to look out...then i'll just go outside.

i have a shipping container that i keep all our camp gear in, so i will make my modular pieces and can store them in the container when not being used. if i need the enclosed trailer to actually haul stuff, i can remove my camping modules and have the entire trailer open for use. im sure there will be a few challenges along the way, but for the most part, i think this is going to end up being a very versatile and well built unit.

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grubworm

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Not big enough for y’all, or the RV quality issues noted above?
i went thru it and made repairs and mods where its good. its just a little too small. it was great at first, but the wife is nearly 60 and not having a bathroom at night is getting to be a deal. we had it out this weekend at buccaneer state park in mississippi and it rained nearly all day and that camper is a bit small to be holed up in all day. i was going to modify it and add a pop-up roof so i can at least stand up in it, but there will never be room enough for a bathroom in it, and that is the biggest issue right now. its great and very enjoyable camper...and it has given me some good build ideas

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Love the concept! modular is a great way to build (I have been designing commercial modular structures for the past 30 years) in your case it gives you all the perks you have mentioned, plus if any one part gets damaged or to well worn, you just replace it, or build a couple of different options to swap out for different kinds of storage etc depending on length of trip or season. I do question your decision not to install any windows though, natural light and ventilation in a small space are two big issues that I would not give up, and the risk of a leak would be worth it to me for the benifit gained. Another reason is for secondary egress due to fire etc, sleeping at the back without an emergency exit would require passing by the kitchen area in a potential fire to get to the door. If no windows then perhaps an emergency interior release for the rear ramp door? lastly be cautious of not having a vent for plumbing above the level of the sinks for proper draining and release of any gases from toilet/shower etc. seen them exit thru a sidewall below the level of the roof as an option. Totally agree on not cutting holes in the roof though. Have not had an RV yet that has not developed a leak around some fixture or another. Did find a product called eternabond that is a tape that comes in single and double sided varieties, been using it for years and never had anything I have sealed with it ever leak. Looking forward to seeing your project develop.
 

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Looking forward to following the build.

How big is the new cargo trailer? Double axle...should be capable of hauling a lot...
7X16 with the extra V up front and i went with the extra 6" height
 
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grubworm

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(I have been designing commercial modular structures for the past 30 years
very cool! :sunglasses:

im a retired contractor/builder and i designed all my strip malls and made them with extra plumbing in the walls etc so that when tenants move out, its a lot easier to set up for the next tenant, especially when they want to add a sink or bathroom, etc. a bit different than what im doing now, but the concept of versatility and thinking ahead is the same..
 

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ha! nice try! denise aint letting me off that easy...there will be much labor involved and what ever materials are the hardest to get...THOSE will be the materials she wants :grinning:
Starboard! Then your entire countertop can be a cutting board! And if you get several colors, cut them into decorative pieces and weld them together into a pleasing pattern then there may just be enough effort involved ;)
 
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grubworm

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ok, weekend coming up, so time to slam a few gin and tonics and head to the table saw...

first up is the bed. like i said earlier, i went with a finished trailer that has e-track factory installed along with a nice metal panel interior. we have a 5" memory foam mattress that is right at 4'5" wide. i'm using the e-track wood beam brackets to mount 2x6 runners for a bed frame. these brackets are VERY heavy duty and are going to come in handy for other builds in here. i'll have the bed elevated so i can stuff lots of shit under it. the trailer is 16+ feet long (16' plus the "V" section of 16") so i can even slide our kayak under the bed and tote it to location and then just keep it outside with a cable lock until its time to move again...
with the e-track brackets. i can easily change height or even totally remove the bed if i need the trailer for something else. remember...the whole point of a "modular" build is the versatility of NOT having any item permanently installed.


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ok...decided to go with 2x10 runners instead of 2x6 and used joist hangers for the lateral supports. the e-track is on 4' centers, so since our mattress is a little wider than that, i went on and added an extension on the back to give the extra room. this set up is very stout and still relatively easy to adjust height or remove altogether if needs be.
i REALLY REALLY like having the e-track installed...extremely versatile.

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there is factory e-track installed on the roof, so the roof is still monolithic and won't leak. i'm going with 200w solar panels (starting with 2 and probably adding more) and a 200ah agm battery.
the battery will be inside the enclosure, so i went with an agm battery because i frankly do not trust a lithium battery being inside the living quarters with me.
with a "V" nose trailer, the tongue is a lot shorter since the sides are swept back and will allow for a sharp turn, so there is not any room for a battery box on the tongue like there is on a square or rounded nose trailer.

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Billiebob

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Looking at the e-track bracket, I'd say more important than the hole and slotted hole is a hole on the bottom, threading a lag or ?? into the bottom....
I do like using 2x10s as bed side runners etc. That almost looks like my parents bed frame bought at Woodwards in 1946..... which is now in our guest room.

Simpson Strong Tie makes the BEST bolts period...

 
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ok...decided to go with 2x10 runners instead of 2x6 and used joist hangers for the lateral supports. the e-track is on 4' centers, so since our mattress is a little wider than that, i went on and added an extension on the back to give the extra room. this set up is very stout and still relatively easy to adjust height or remove altogether if needs be.
i REALLY REALLY like having the e-track installed...extremely versatile.

View attachment 236203

there is factory e-track installed on the roof, so the roof is still monolithic and won't leak. i'm going with 200w solar panels (starting with 2 and probably adding more) and a 200ah agm battery.
the battery will be inside the enclosure, so i went with an agm battery because i frankly do not trust a lithium battery being inside the living quarters with me.
with a "V" nose trailer, the tongue is a lot shorter since the sides are swept back and will allow for a sharp turn, so there is not any room for a battery box on the tongue like there is on a square or rounded nose trailer.

View attachment 236204
Ouch that’s going to be heavy
 
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grubworm

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Ouch that’s going to be heavy
yeah, it is very heavy.
the only thing i could have done different is to have gone with the 2X6 as originally planned, but once i added the 2X4 lats to the bottom of the 2X6s and then ply wood on top of the lats, it would almost be flush and the mattress could slide off...with the 2X10 runners, i have plenty of wood holding the mattress in the frame. 1X lumber would be lighter, but i also think it would be a bit too flimsy. its weird...1X lumber actually cost more than 2X lumber...a 1X10 was over $20 and a 2X10 was around $10.
i made the bed in sections, so by removing a few fasteners, i can have all that weight divided into 3 easier to manage pieces.

IMG_2290.JPG
 
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grubworm

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still plugging away...

by using the modified carriage bolts, i was able to mount 2x6s along the side of the walls. like i said earlier, the idea is to use the e-track to my full advantage, so by attaching the 2x6s, i have attachment points without poking holes in the finished interior walls.

first module is going to be a 6'x16" cabinet. it will hold a 15 gal. poly water tank along with a 12v sure-flo pump. the top is a butcher block counter top made out of 2x4 white pine. it will be cut out for a small sink and faucet and rest of the area will be for a portable stove and prep area. i considered installing a drop in stove, but the whole thing about versatility had me go with a portable 2 burner stove that can also be used outside. our current rv has a slide out galley and we really like cooking outside with it. on those few occasions when weather is too bad, we can easily set it on the counter and use it inside. im building the kitchen cabinet module where it is plumbed and wired and all i have to do is set it in place, secure it to the 2x6 runners and then hook up my power. the 15 gal tank in the kitchen module will also support the shower. i will plumb a quick disconnect to the end of the cabinet and all i have to do is connect to the shower with a hose and i'll have water for the shower.

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