Input on Silverado vs Tundra purchase decision?

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tjZ06

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I quote "My 2003 Silverado is passing 200,000 miles as well as rusting out so planning to replace it very soon with potentially a new Silverado or Tundra. This has to be my daily driver so can't focus on only overlanding potential (emphasis mine). I'm probably getting a mid-range trim level, of course 4 wheel drive. When I go offroad it's going to be something mild and not climbing rocks or anything too technically challenging."
Was there a point to this quote? I daily drove my '11 Silverado 2500 HD from brand new (bought in late Oct '10) until just last year (and only got a new DD because I now live 150 miles from the office and didn't want to run up the miles on the tow pig, not because it's not comfy). I've done stuff probably about as challenging as what the OP wants to do with the D'max: Fool-size Overland Trip: Tamarack Lake in Shasta-Trinity National Forest However, I find that most people that start by saying "I'm not going to do anything difficult" end up pushing that "line" further with each passing year. A Power Wagon would set the OP up well if they increase the scope of their wheeling in the future...

-TJ
 
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HazMatt79

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Was there a point to this quote? I daily drove my '11 Silverado 2500 HD from brand new (bought in late Oct '10) until just last year (and only got a new DD because I now live 150 miles from the office and didn't want to run up the miles on the tow pig, not because it's not comfy). I've done stuff probably about as challenging as what the OP wants to do with the D'max: Fool-size Overland Trip: Tamarack Lake in Shasta-Trinity National Forest However, I find that most people that start by saying "I'm not going to do anything difficult" end up pushing that "line" further with each passing year. A Power Wagon would set the OP up well if they increase the scope of their wheeling in the future...

-TJ
it was in my underlined and italicized portion. ;-)
 

HazMatt79

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Fair 'nough.

-TJ
I do agree with you that we can tend to ask more from our vehicles that originally intend. I'm overall content with what Toyota has done on the Tundra. Thankfully there are more aftermarket options now for more serious off-roading that I will look at later once the warranty has expired.
 

MidOH

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That's the usual tactic reserved for people with trucks that some of us don't recommend.

[''Somebody doesn't like what I like? I should call them a small rod.]
 

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If you're buying a full size truck to Overland just get a Power Wagon. I'm a Chevy guy and I have a Silverado (2011 2500 Duramax/Allison with a ~4" lift and 35"s) that I've Overlanded -some- but it was never bought/meant to be an Overlander. It's my tow pig. Hands-down if I was buying a new (or new-used) full size to Overland it'd be a Power Wagon. Factory locking diffs front and rear, very beefy solid axles front and rear, etc. It's just much better suited for the use than either the Tundra or Silverado (both IFS rigs, both open front diffs, etc.).

-TJ
If Im not mistaken the Power Wagons are speced with the AAM11.5" differential front and rear, which is an improved AAM10.5 (the legendary GM 14bolt). Honestly having been involved in full sized wheeling for years (rock crawling with seriously modded K5 Blazers mostly) the AAM full floating axle is hands down the best light duty axle on the market. Only axle that comes close and is maybe better with some upgrades due to its smaller housing (read more ground clearance) and lighter weight would be the Ford 9", but it takes a lot of money to get a 9" upgraded to meet or surpass the AAM full floaters.
 

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If you're buying a full size truck to Overland just get a Power Wagon. I'm a Chevy guy and I have a Silverado (2011 2500 Duramax/Allison with a ~4" lift and 35"s) that I've Overlanded -some- but it was never bought/meant to be an Overlander. It's my tow pig. Hands-down if I was buying a new (or new-used) full size to Overland it'd be a Power Wagon. Factory locking diffs front and rear, very beefy solid axles front and rear, etc. It's just much better suited for the use than either the Tundra or Silverado (both IFS rigs, both open front diffs, etc.).

-TJ
Have you seen the Tremor package that Ford just announced for their Super Duty's?? :smiley: Pretty sure that will be my next truck... in 3 or 4 years. :confused:

Of course the next reply was about this, and I didn't see MidOH's post before replying. I was too excited to talk about the Tremor.
 

tjZ06

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Have you seen the Tremor package that Ford just announced for their Super Duty's?? :smiley: Pretty sure that will be my next truck... in 3 or 4 years. :confused:

Of course the next reply was about this, and I didn't see MidOH's post before replying. I was too excited to talk about the Tremor.
No front locker. No front electronic sway bar disconnect. No winch. That's 3 strikes... and it's a Ford.

-TJ
 
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MidOH

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No $20,000 markup for a silly giant sticker. And you get a better engine and transmission.

If you want to play the ''strikes'' game:
-Has Dodge fixed the cam and roller issues with their engines yet? Strike 1.
-Diesel engine option? Strike 2.
- 4.10 gears and 33" tires? PW's used to have acceptable 4.56 gears. Strike 3.
-Locker and swaybar disco failures, flashing locker button?
-Winch, but no winch bumper?

You can build a darn nice truck for well below the Powerwagons absurd pricing. And have far better components to show for it. Many SD owners prefer a Trutrac front diff. I'm installing a Yukon Grizz.

The front swaybar is a non issue. I can disco my sway bar in a couple minutes. Carli is coming out with a nicer sway bar.

I can build a CCSB Ford with a Grizz front locker and 4.88 gears, BDS 4" 4 link, Fox 2.5 Dsc shocks, and 37" Cooper STT's on Method wheels, for far less than the cost of the PW. And still have a GVWR capable of hauling a slide in camper. So that's the route I went.

The Tremor package can be applied to the base xl, xlt, and stx models. Making it's pricepoint far below the PW pricing. You have plenty of room to spend on ARB lockers, winch, or whatever. Often, I'll recommend a base Dodge over the PW as well.

Fiat is making a huge mistake by not allowing a reasonably priced locker F/R option available for all models of Ram and Wrangler.

My rear elocker was only a $500ish option. (Fx4) $456 IIRC.
 
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tjZ06

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No $20,000 markup for a silly giant sticker. And you get a better engine and transmission.

The Tremor package can be applied to the base xl, xlt, and stx models. Making it's pricepoint far below the PW pricing. You have plenty of room to spend on ARB lockers, winch, or whatever.

Fiat is making a huge mistake by not allowing a reasonably priced locker F/R option available for all models of Ram and Wrangler.
Personally I'd delete the stickers. Also, it's not a $20k markup for the PW, it's $8. That said, yes $8k for lockers, an e-disconnect and a winch is kind of crazy.

PW2.PNG
(that price is w/o the PW package, that's just where a Tradesman starts)

PW1.PNG
And here's what the Power Wagon package costs to add to Tradesman, bringing the total to:

PW3.PNG

So yes, you can get the Powerwagon on even the Tradesman trim, so yes they're making hte F/R locker option available on all trims of RAM. Obviously they haven't done that with Wrangler, and you're "forced" into a few more of the options with a Rubicon than a base-base Sport. Still, a Rubicon with no additional options isn't outfitted all that differently than a Sport S. Then you can up-fit it with basically all the options to make it equivalent to a Sahara Altitude or whatnot. So yes, you basically can have a Rubicon at almost any given trim level. BTW, I see what you did there calling it Fiat not FCA. ;)

If you want to play the ''strikes'' game:
-Has Dodge fixed the cam and roller issues with their engines yet? Strike 1.
-Diesel engine option? Strike 2.
- 4.10 gears and 33" tires? PW's used to have acceptable 4.56 gears. Strike 3.
-Locker and swaybar disco failures, flashing locker button?
-Winch, but no winch bumper?

You can build a darn nice truck for well below the Powerwagons absurd pricing. And have far better components to show for it. Many SD owners prefer a Trutrac front diff. I'm installing a Yukon Grizz.

The front swaybar is a non issue. I can disco my sway bar in a couple minutes. Carli is coming out with a nicer sway bar.

I can build a CCSB Ford with a Grizz front locker and 4.88 gears, BDS 4" 4 link, Fox 2.5 Dsc shocks, and 37" Cooper STT's on Method wheels, for far less than the cost of the PW. And still have a GVWR capable of hauling a slide in camper. So that's the route I went.

My rear elocker was only a $500ish option. (Fx4) $456 IIRC.
The cam and roller issue seems to be a thing of the past, but I guess we'll see. I do agree it sucks they don't offer the diesel. If I was actually buying a brand new full-size rig to build into an Overlander I'd basically do what you're talking about doing, but start with a diesel Tradesman and then do the stuff myself (probably using AEV's suspension and fenders so I can run 40"s... because every Ovlerlander needs 40"s ;) ). The reality is, some people just don't want to have to "build" a rig, or have the knowledge to do it. If they want to just go sign on the dotted-line then a Power Wagon is still the most capable stock full-size out there, bottom line.

-TJ
 

MidOH

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I hope the cam issue is gone. I can see a rubi glad in my future, if it's pricing drops.

PW's were hovering around $14,000 more than my truck ($38k) when I bought it. Hopefully I don't dump more than 10g's on farkles.
 

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I have heard similar. One of the techs I work with worked for a company that did the same thing. Steering racks is what he always talks about not holding up on the Toyotas. But that was oil field work which is extremely hard on equipment.
Many years ago but we ran Fords, 2WD twin I beams and Chevs, 2WD double a arms. The fords were trouble free. The Chevs got new front ends every year. Sams oil field service, 80mph over washboard.

I doubt the difference is as dramatic today, Ford vs Chev but I have a friend who has both a Chev and a Tundra, the Chev is the work truck, the Tundra is for the opera.
 

tjZ06

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I hope the cam issue is gone. I can see a rubi glad in my future, if it's pricing drops.

PW's were hovering around $14,000 more than my truck ($38k) when I bought it. Hopefully I don't dump more than 10g's on farkles.
Your method is definitely the more cost effective method.

-TJ
 
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Billiebob

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If you are looking at a PowerWagon, you are not getting a 2500 series pickup, it might say 2500 on the fender but the 1500 has a higher payload. The PowerWagon is a super flexible pickup version of the Jeep Rubicon. There are no other pickups to compare with the PowerWagon. Just like no other Jeeps compare to the Rubicon.

The PowerWagon is definitely going to be the smoothest running Dodge pickup But like every other halfton truck it is real easy to overload it.
 
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tjZ06

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If you are looking at a PowerWagon, you are not getting a 2500 series pickup, it might say 2500 on the fender but the 1500 has a higher payload. The PowerWagon is a super flexible pickup version of the Jeep Rubicon. There are no other pickups to compare with the PowerWagon. Just like no other Jeeps compare to the Rubicon.
I *think* I get what you're saying, but the PW still has the 2500 frame, 2500 running gear, etc. It's a 2500. Yes, the 1660lbs of payload is low, but that's all down to the softer rear springs to allow it to flex and ride better offroad. There are trade-offs when you try to make a full-size wheel. I don't think most people buying a PW to Overland are going to have an issue w/ the 1660lbs payload though... but those with the slide-in "offroad campers" in mind might... but then they're probably also not going to need the flex of the PW and run it through that type of trail with the camper on.

-TJ
 

MidOH

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True.

But the new FWC's are pretty much going to max out a PW. Hardsides? Forget about it.

We flex our campers a bit on long stair case like gravel sections that heavy rains wash out. But we aren't ever going down a 45 degree decline like that PW guys picture. My usual reason for disco'ing my front sway bar is to smooth out the ride more, not really flex. It has enough of that, still connected.