Help me decide what size lift/tires for f150

[Merkwier]

Hello everyone! Please help me settle on a decision once and for all. Ive been back and forth on this topic for months now and can't decide what's best for me.

First, I live in Colorado so dealing with alot of rocks, clearance is important. Secondly, my truck (2013) is also my daily driver.

The options:
•4" lift with "35s
•2"level with 35s with some trimming requited (some people say it works, others don't)
•2" level with 33s

Ofcourse a lift is much more expensive, however if it's substantially more beneficial, I wouldn't mind spending the money.

If you guys could provide some advice it would be so very much appreciated. I don't want to make the wrong decision. I don't trust shops to not try and sell me the most expensive thing.

 

[ohiowrangler]

Try to have an idea what you want the truck to do when you are done. I would aim for stability and reliability. A lower center of gravity and mods that won't over stress stock components. I'd go with 33's, adequate clearance without excessive load on steering components. Most of the time 35's are the point of having to upgrade components to control the additional rotating mass, ie; steering, u joints, brakes, springs, shocks. What ever the decision I recommend buying a kit, piecing parts together usually is a pita and costs more in the end. Good luck, Ron

 

[Merkwier]

Try to have an idea what you want the truck to do when you are done. I would aim for stability and reliability. A lower center of gravity and mods that won't over stress stock components. I'd go with 33's, adequate clearance without excessive load on steering components. Most of the time 35's are the point of having to upgrade components to control the additional rotating mass, ie; steering, u joints, brakes, springs, shocks. What ever the decision I recommend buying a kit, piecing parts together usually is a pita and costs more in the end. Good luck, Ron

Thanks Ron! I want to be able to take up into the mountains (nothing crazy) Of you're familiar with Colorado, trails like hermit pass, cinnamon and egineer pass, sometimes venturing into Utah and going to Moab and whatnot. I am not interested in doing anything too steep or crawling over boulders. The length of the truck naturally prevents that sort of thing anyways. My main goal is leaving the city and people behind so I can enjoy the outdoors and camp as far away from civilization as possible haha

Thanks for the input. I've been leaning towards a level and 33s recently do the simplicity and reasons you pointed out.

 

[ohiowrangler]

Glad to help, I was in Colorado the week of labor day last year, in Colorado springs. A friend, his son and I did some trail riding. Ron

 

[w0lfpack91]

Personally I'd do a 4inch with 33s to maintain flex while keeping better angles and a lower center of gravity

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[Merkwier]

Personally I'd do a 4inch with 33s to maintain flex while keeping better angles and a lower center of gravity

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Oh no... Not another option lol

 

[Cort]

2” level and 35’s won’t work expect for a truck that drives to the mall to look cool, you will lose articulation and steering lock to lock in most cases.

I would recommend the 2” level and 33’s. Be realistic on what you will use your truck for 90% of the time. Buy a quality level kit such as the fox or icon system.

35’s look great but the tires cost more, the driveablility of the truck is decreased, and the wear on other components will require more maintenance.

In my opinion you would be better off with the 33” option and investing in a skid plate package and true rock sliders.

 

[Merkwier]

2” level and 35’s won’t work expect for a truck that drives to the mall to look cool, you will lose articulation and steering lock to lock in most cases.

I would recommend the 2” level and 33’s. Be realistic on what you will use your truck for 90% of the time. Buy a quality level kit such as the fox or icon system.

35’s look great but the tires cost more, the driveablility of the truck is decreased, and the wear on other components will require more maintenance.

In my opinion you would be better off with the 33” option and investing in a skid plate package and true rock sliders.

Thanks so much for the advice. Makes alot of sense

 

[Cort]

No prob!

A 2” level and the 33”s will make a surprising difference in your height. It took me about a week or two to get used to my added height on my truck. I kept missing my step when I wasn’t paying attention.

 

[Merkwier]

Wha

No prob!

A 2” level and the 33”s will make a surprising difference in your height. It took me about a week or two to get used to my added height on my truck. I kept missing my step when I wasn’t paying attention.

What do you drive?

 

[Cort]

2015 F150 currently. Here is my build thread: https://www.overlandbound.com/forums/threads/stealth-overland-sar-f150.9941/

I’ve owned a couple Silverados (1998, 2005), a 2008 F250 diesel, a bunch of Jeeps (87 CJ, 94YJ, 05LJ, 91MJ) and a few others. All were modified to some extent or another. Over the years I’ve learned I prefer a low center of gravity build meaning the smallest lift with the largest tire without requiring significant body mods.

 

[Horse Soldier]

4" lift with 33" tire and research the lift kit. Quality and strength over cheap.

 

[Theoretician]

Bend the front crash bars out of the way with a hydraulic rental from autozone, fit some 285/75r18 small 35s, replace the shocks with some bilstein 5200s or 6150s while you're in there, and go have fun. 12.5in tires will usually rub against the control arms at steering lock, whether they be 33s or 35s, unless you add eccentricity to the bearing loads by using wheels that offset the tire outboard.

Screwing with independent suspensions beyond adding an inch or so is just asking for trouble.

 

[ChilaMan]

Thanks for input!

 

[ChilaMan]

4" lift with 33" tire and research the lift kit. Quality and strength over cheap.

So lemme clarify....2002 f150 w 4 lift and 33 would be more capable than 35's? Reason I ask is because that is my current set up (4"lift w 35's), but I want a more capable platform. Been seriously downsizing to 33 for better performance. Please advise

 

[smritte]

So lemme clarify....2002 f150 w 4 lift and 33 would be more capable than 35's?

There are two correct answers for this, yes and no. What is your definition of capable?

Sand flotation, wider is better but there are skinny 35's and wide 33's. Stepping over things with your tire, taller is better but, wider is not. 1" more ground clearance may or may not make any difference considering you probably deflate the tire for off road.

Other considerations performance wise.
How far off is your speedo? Speed related items are no longer calibrated.
Bigger tires weigh more. Your shocks control how fast the suspension cycles up and down (unsprung weight). More weight=more heat in your shocks=need bigger shocks.
Taller tires put more leverage against a caliper. This equals more heat and longer stopping distance.

As I said, what is the definition of capable. I have run ultra hard core trails (Rubicon, Dusy, hammers) with 32's, 33's and 35's. I will admit, my last rock rig had 40's and walked up thing's I had to really work to get over in my lesser vehicles.
Currently I have a 6200# Cruiser. I built it for 35's and it looked great with them. I just swapped to 32's. I got back my power and braking ability. Capable wise, no diffrent for what I now drive in.

 

[Billiebob]

35s to 33s with no other changes will improve acceleration, braking and gas mileage. 35s only win the battle crawling in low range up a waterfall. I don't think rock crawling is an overlanding goal. YES. 33s will out perform 35s on an F150. Yes 33s will be more capable the 35s on a stock.... or lifted F150.

Crawling, with lower gearing, in 4LO, aired down, 35s will out perform 33s sometimes.

 

[ChilaMan]

There are two correct answers for this, yes and no. What is your definition of capable?

Sand flotation, wider is better but there are skinny 35's and wide 33's. Stepping over things with your tire, taller is better but, wider is not. 1" more ground clearance may or may not make any difference considering you probably deflate the tire for off road.

Other considerations performance wise.
How far off is your speedo? Speed related items are no longer calibrated.
Bigger tires weigh more. Your shocks control how fast the suspension cycles up and down (unsprung weight). More weight=more heat in your shocks=need bigger shocks.
Taller tires put more leverage against a caliper. This equals more heat and longer stopping distance.

As I said, what is the definition of capable. I have run ultra hard core trails (Rubicon, Dusy, hammers) with 32's, 33's and 35's. I will admit, my last rock rig had 40's and walked up thing's I had to really work to get over in my lesser vehicles.
Currently I have a 6200# Cruiser. I built it for 35's and it looked great with them. I just swapped to 32's. I got back my power and braking ability. Capable wise, no diffrent for what I now drive in.

Definetly food for thought!!!! I do thank u!!!! Merry Christmas!!!!

 

[M Rose]

You are in the desert, I wouldn’t care so much the diameter as I would the width of the tire. Go as wide as you can find.