Forester XT build - Overland/Bugout

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krzyboy2o

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Is it between the glass and the sunscreen? I can't tell.

Btw, do you have any recommendations for mechanics in the area?
Yah it's between the glass and the shade. My shop vac is too big to get it there and it's way too brittle for me to reach in and grab.

Mechanics - sure what part of the Bay Area do you live?

Was gonna save these for #foresterfriday but what the heck!



 

odingrey

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I'm near Milpitas, right on the border.

For the roof... Not sure... Compresses air designed to be used on a computer might work here.
 

krzyboy2o

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Mann Engineering in Santa Clara is great. I had my 60k service and RSB done there and so far had a good experience. Free wifi and a tv in their lounge is a plus too.
 

krzyboy2o

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odingrey

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Nice! How are you gonna handle the electrics? I'm really curious how you'll hook up the switches for it.
 

krzyboy2o

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Nice! How are you gonna handle the electrics? I'm really curious how you'll hook up the switches for it.
Depends where I end up mounting it. So far my gut is telling me to mount it on the roof basket. Right under my fairing.



But the wiring might be tricky getting it inside through the cabin with out leaks.

Another option is to get a light bar from rally innovations and mount the lights on that.

I've installed my LED fogs so it shouldn't be too bad.
 

odingrey

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Personally, I like the look on the cargo box, but drilling a hole in my roof would make me put it on a light bar. Light bars also look cool, so there's that!
 

tyleromyah

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Depends where I end up mounting it. So far my gut is telling me to mount it on the roof basket. Right under my fairing.



But the wiring might be tricky getting it inside through the cabin with out leaks.

Another option is to get a light bar from rally innovations and mount the lights on that.

I've installed my LED fogs so it shouldn't be too bad.
I ran the wiring on mine down the roof railing, into the Hatch and back toward the front end along the headliner inside. Worked just fine!

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Steve

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So far my gut is telling me to mount it on the roof basket. Right under my fairing.
I had the Yakima Load Warrior basket on my Outback, and then moved it to my 4Runner. I don't know how the fairing works on your basket, but mine was only attached at the bottom. I mounted my 32" OPT7 LED bar behind the fairing, and flip it down when I want to use it. This protects the light from rock damage, eliminates running afoul of local light laws, and gives a bit of stealth to the overall look.

As for wiring, I went all Mickey Mouse, running the wiring down the edge of the windscreen with 3M zip tie bases, and in the rear or the hood.

Here was my Outback thread: Steve's Cross-Country Subaru Outback

I then temporarily wired the LED light. Since I change rack configurations, I don't want the wiring permanent. But eventually, I'd like to run a set of 4 gauge wires from the battery to a terminal block in the back of the Outback. There I could connect the LED light bar and any additional external lighting through the lift gate crack, plus have adequate power for my inverter and a future fridge. For this trip, though, it is stuck to the edge of the windscreen using adhesive blocks and zip-ties.








Flip down the fairing to reveal the LED light bar



FourTreks Modular LED lightbar mount



FourTreks Modular ARB Awning mount


















Low Beams



High Beams



LED






 

krzyboy2o

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Nice write up @Steve! Haven't really taken a look at mounting and wiring as it's getting closer to the holidays and so dang cold out.

I'll chime in when ready. On the bright side.


It's official!!



Now I gotta find another location for this.. it's actually heavy for its size!
 

krzyboy2o

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I'm trying to find a solution to power my light bar with a clean wire installation.

So far I'm thinking of running the wire down the roof rail toward the back hatch and into my driver side rear tail light.



Now the question is, can I tap power from one of the bulbs or from the 12v/120w CLA in the back cargo?



Then from there run the switch to the front dash.

Thanks!




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Steve

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I sure don't think the tail light wiring will take the load that a light bar is drawing. You risk melting insulation and fire! Even the 12V outlet might not be enough. What's the amp draw on the LED light bar? Then compare that to the fuse for the tai lights and 12V outlet.

Just urging caution.
 

odingrey

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Might wanna wire from the battery. You can follow how sub woofer amps get their power from the battery to get it into the cab, then run it down the back under the carpet. Might as well use a large gauge wire too in case you ever want to throw a backup battery in the wheel well once you go off board with the spare.
 
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krzyboy2o

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Ok, I'm thinking of installing a master switch panel for all my auxiliary lights. sPod and Switch Pros looks like the main contenders. Anyone vouch for one or the other?

Thanks and have a happy holiday!

Light bar test:




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krzyboy2o

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Just installed Auxbeam H11 LEDs.



Left are the Piaa Night Techs and the one on the right are Auxbeam LEDs.

I'll post a video when it gets darker.


With all the LED's





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krzyboy2o

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Here's a short clip of the lights driving through the hood. You can clearly see the the difference in color. So far [emoji1303] for Auxbeam.

@odingrey post some pics! You know the rules.. never happened without proof! Haha

Happy holidays!

Heading out tomorrow to Yosemite with the fam. Not planning to do anything crazy off road. Just need to get out of town and enjoy the time off.



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krzyboy2o

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Ok, drove the back roads of central cali on the way to Yosemite, let's just say I pissed off a lot of oncoming drivers. The spill pattern of the Auxbeam is a too high causing them to be blinding.

Sad to say but these have to come off unfortunately. Unless there's a way to angle the headlight assembly down.


On the bright side [emoji23] here's a photo of Yosemite Falls....



More to come...


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