Does any one have a zero generator and solar panel unit
- Thread starter Cpol
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Traveler I
I built my own a few years ago just to learn more about the whole thing and see if I could save some money. I went with a 2-40ah lead acid batteries and it’s been working great for a couple years. When I head out with a couple small solar panels I can charge my as batteries, drone batteries and anything else without a hitch. I shot a video that’s on YouTube I can shoot a link for. Simple fun project and way cheaper than a goal zero
Traveler I
Advocate I
I just add GoalZero setup to my trailer. I'm running a Boulder 100watt solar panel with a Yeti Lithium 1000.
I choose this all-in-one integrated solution over DIY. The price for GoalZero setup is not cheap comparing if you can pick your own part and build a good solar system. I will be testing this setup when I head out camping next week.
BTW, GoalZero do support running fridge like ARB, Dometic. The 12V output cigarette socket output on the yeti has a problem supplying constant 12V. You will need use an adapter - 6mm to female 12V cigarette socket and connect your fridge through the 6mm output ($5 adapter).
I choose this all-in-one integrated solution over DIY. The price for GoalZero setup is not cheap comparing if you can pick your own part and build a good solar system. I will be testing this setup when I head out camping next week.
BTW, GoalZero do support running fridge like ARB, Dometic. The 12V output cigarette socket output on the yeti has a problem supplying constant 12V. You will need use an adapter - 6mm to female 12V cigarette socket and connect your fridge through the 6mm output ($5 adapter).
Advocate I
Here is some info about GoalZero from my research.
Goal Zero Yeti use PWM charge controller. I choose a Yeti lithium 1000/1400 over 400 because I can upgrade MPPT charge controller. Check out the article here regards PWM vs MPPT. https://www.goalzero.com/blog/what-tech-charge-controllers/
Goal Zero is a all-in-one solution. It has battery, charging controller and also pure sine wave inverter. The pure sine wave inverter is the plus
Goal Zero use propriety connector. Consider to get adapter when using a non goal zero solar panel. I choose to use Goal Zero Solar Panel to avoid compatibility.
Goal Zero battery is rated only 500 cycles which some reviewers said it's low. The lithium battery is advertised as user replaceable, but no part no. available yet.
Goal Zero Yeti use PWM charge controller. I choose a Yeti lithium 1000/1400 over 400 because I can upgrade MPPT charge controller. Check out the article here regards PWM vs MPPT. https://www.goalzero.com/blog/what-tech-charge-controllers/
Goal Zero is a all-in-one solution. It has battery, charging controller and also pure sine wave inverter. The pure sine wave inverter is the plus
Goal Zero use propriety connector. Consider to get adapter when using a non goal zero solar panel. I choose to use Goal Zero Solar Panel to avoid compatibility.
Goal Zero battery is rated only 500 cycles which some reviewers said it's low. The lithium battery is advertised as user replaceable, but no part no. available yet.
Advocate I
Tested the GoalZero this morning connecting my ARB fridge to Yeti 1000. It works. There is a gotcha. I need to set the fridge voltage monitoring to low instead of high. Here is the picture of the setup and the adapter needed.
Wish I would have seen this sooner, I would have chimed in. Anywho....
I've been running this setup for about 6 months now and really enjoy it.
Yeti 1000 with full time support from a Renogy 100w panel roof mounted and a GZ Boulder 100w briefcase for additional support if needed. This setup powers my ARB 50L fridge along with camera batteries, drone batteries, phones and tablets. All while being portable; move it to another vehicle, a tent, the house during a power outage, tailgaiting, etc.
The GZ 1000 does request a few things from you to function to its full potential.
I may add more as it comes to mind. But feel free to ask me any questions about my setup or experiences.
I've been running this setup for about 6 months now and really enjoy it.
Yeti 1000 with full time support from a Renogy 100w panel roof mounted and a GZ Boulder 100w briefcase for additional support if needed. This setup powers my ARB 50L fridge along with camera batteries, drone batteries, phones and tablets. All while being portable; move it to another vehicle, a tent, the house during a power outage, tailgaiting, etc.
The GZ 1000 does request a few things from you to function to its full potential.
- Set your fridge to the low power setting.
- Call GZ and ask for the 12V adapter plug (as seen above) They sent mine out at no charge...You'll need this with an ARB fridge because the 12v plug is a bit to shallow to make full contact with the contacts of the GZ. (I cannot speak for other fridges and plugs)
- Yes, you can use the 'house plug' with the inverter on, but it's nearly as efficient as using the 12v. The inverter consumes power simply running it on it's own.
- The GZ does not like to get hot, mine threw the temp light on and fans a couple of times this summer, but I like that feature...it tells me to fix its environment or else...a regular battery setup won't do that.
- Get the MPPT module. It's more efficient and adds more inputs to the GZ. Not to mention it just plugs right in and is already setup for it.
I may add more as it comes to mind. But feel free to ask me any questions about my setup or experiences.
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Is it easy to secure the Yeti 1000 down for offroad use? Can the two handles at the top be used with tie downs? I am trying to decide between a Lithium 400 and a Lithium 1000 (with solar panels) to support my ARB 63qt. That 1000 is pretty heavy at 40lbs but I like the power.
You can use the top carry handles as tie down points. That is how mine is secured. I'm running the 1000 but would like to experiment with running the 400 now that the new 12vDC charge cable is out. I've been using it to charge the GZ while driving between destinations and it works really well. I think I could get by with the smaller 400 now and supplement it with solar when needed.
Influencer II
Just a follow up, spent four days off grid in Death Valley using my 28 Watt Solar Panel, Yetti Batterey and the 35 qt ARB fridge ( with charging small flash lights, lamps and cell phones) ; the system was at 40% by the end of the trip with no assist from the truck. This is usually the longest length of time I spent in one spot so I"m thinking this set up will serve me well. If I were to stay longer a 100W solar panel should easily keep up with the load.
That is pretty good. I have a Renogy 100W panel. On a sunny day, it will usually get my Yeti1000 battery back to 100% by noon or so running my ARB 63qt. I did add the MPPT controller to it.
Influencer II
No, it was spring time. That area is volcanic and has a history of this type of activity. Many hot springs in the area have shut off for some time due to geological activity. 7.2 is a big earth quake.
This is my goal. I need power for a few LEDs and a tiny fridge. A solar panel, a battery, a draw. All I cannot find are the details to spec the right product. I like the fit of a 360watt panel on the roof. But what other components do I need. I go to a Solar shop........ no one has a clue.
Only extra is a wire from the Jeep to charge off the alternator on the highway. I have no desire to add a genset. I'd sooner limit what I want to charge.
Only extra is a wire from the Jeep to charge off the alternator on the highway. I have no desire to add a genset. I'd sooner limit what I want to charge.
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Member III
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I watched this video to help set up my 100w Renogy solar panel with 1000w inverter. He has other great informative videos on solar and Goal Zero etc.
Enthusiast III
Rough estimate:
LEDs: Each draws not much more than 0.25 Amps, at 12 Volts. 3 Watts max, 12 Wh for the 4 hours you might run the lights in a day.
Fridge: 4.2 Amps at 12 Volts, 160 Wh over a 24 hour period (specs on a Costway 54 quart fridge).
In one day, with lights and fridge, you might draw about 172 Wh. Round up to 180 Wh for inefficiencies, etc in one 24 hour period.
If you have a 12 volt battery with 35 Ah capacity (12volts * 35Ah = 420 Wh), it should last about 27 to 30 hours before it's been drawn down to 50% capacity.
Your 360 Watts panel will put out about 10 Amps max current. If you're camped in a sunny spot with 2 hours of good sun, you should produce about 240 Wh (12 volts * 10 Amps * 2 hours = 240 Wh) with that panel.
In other words, in less than a couple of hours a day in the sun, your 360 Watt panel will fully recharge a small 35 Ah battery. You don't need to run anything from the alternator unless you don't have access to sunlight for more than a couple of days. If you don't already have a 360 Watt panel, I would recommend a smaller, lighter, and cheaper panel. You don't need that kind of power for the things you're planning to run. I can easily charge my battery with a 100W panel with just a few hours of sunlight. In BC, you could probably get away with a 200 W panel and still be fine for several days. Especially if you got a slightly larger capacity battery.
Things you need:
12 Volt, 35Ah or bigger AGM (or LiFePo4) battery. Let size, weight, cost, and length of time without sun determine if you want to go bigger.
Panel
MPPT charge controller, 15 Amps.
10 Ga wire to connect panel to charge controller and controller to battery. Appropriate wire for lights.
Quick connect connectors with inline 10 Amp fuse. This connects the panel to the charge controller and lets you easily remove the battery box from the vehicle.
Inline 10 Amp fuse from charge controller to battery.
Fuses, relays and switches for the lights.
A place to put all of that. A 35Ah battery is small and light enough (about 6"x8"x8") that you can put it all into a relatively small box and be able to carry it around (should weigh less than 30 pounds for the AGM option).
I own the GZ Yeti 1000 and I have to say that its a beast and packs alot of power. The main reason i went this route was due to the versatility alone. Its all in one and portable so you can use it for any situation, unlike a dual battery setup is static to the vehicle its installed on and not to mention cost, installation process, and maintenance. I plan on using it with a fridge in my 4runner and since the vehicle comes with 100w inverter i plan to plug the fridge to GZ and the GZ to the cars 110v outlet so it charges while im on the trail and once i cut the engine off the GZ takes over powering the fridge. I also have a briefcase 100w solar panel incase i decide to camp out for any extended period of time. Hopefully this works as I havent tested yet since i dont have a fridge yet but if anyone has tried this please chime in if this option works. So far ive only used the GZ on weekend trips and find it way more power than i need so i tend to leave it at home and just bring the smaller power bricks. But again you cant beat the versatility of the GZ IMO.
That will work great for powering the fridge. I power my ARB 63qt with my GZ 1000 minus the AC outlet to charge the GZ. If your GZ is a lithium version you will probably want to get one of their 12V regulated cables. It will allow you to use the battery to a lower voltage without the fridge cutting out early. I am not sure how your 4Runner AC outlet works but if it still works when the key is off it may not be the best way to use it. The GZ will keep charging from both AC and the solar if connected. You are also losing some efficiency charging that way by going 12V to 120V and back to 12V.
We have a yeti 400 spent a week on the road with it and we love it charges all our gear, runs the lights in the RTT all day and night. We also use it for our TV on rainy days and it lasts about 10 hours on the just the bank power without solar. With the panels it can maintain itself without draining.
