Canyonlands Nat'l Park. 10 Days Too Many for Maze, Needles, Island in Sky/White Rim Trail?

[Lazynorse]

TL,DR.. is 10 days too many for Canyonlands NP? Details:

I've been to Utah many times before, including Canyonlands. All limited by rental car access. Now, I drive a 2022 Ford Ranger FX4, lifted (Eibach Pro Truck, Icon springs) with C load AT tires, 32" Firestone Destination XTs. I've got years of abusing Subarus and now a few good multiday trips with my truck. Avid backpacker and car camper. Just stating to establish base-level experience.

I'm driving from Seattle area, planning 2 weeks. 2 days there, 2 days back leaves 10 days. So far, I'm thinking 3 nights/4 days on White Rim Trail. After, I'm considering 6 days in or near Needles and Maze. I think I'll avoid some of the more extreme obstacle laden/very slow going getting to, say, Dollhouse. I just don't enjoy multiple hours of very slow rock crawling-type travel. Also, I'm not a 6" lifted Jeep on 38s, my rig is a capable tourer.

I'm early in the planning stages, getting a sense of camping possibilities, access to roads, their destinations, hiking trailheads and time/distance between them. Ideally, I like to camp near where I explore, driving and day hiking. I want to leave the truck and hit the hiking trails for a couple hours or more each day, every other day at minimum, drive a few hours each day, camp, rinse and repeat.

I'm sure one could spend a lifetime in Canyonlands, but I'd like a reality check if I should consider linking areas outside Canyonlands to make a 10 day itinerary. Also reality checking, if I can't decide or secure the right sequence of camp permits, should I consider nights outside the park, in BLM or other dispersed camp areas. If I go afar, Capital Reef and San Rafael makes sense. I've made many travel mistakes, trying to visit too many geographically distinct areas in a short amount of time. Too many hours in the car. I'd rather stay closer to one area and really take it in.

Your suggestions and shared experience is most welcome.

 

[Neal A. Tew]

The four days on White Rim sounds perfect in my experience. I can't speak with any experience on the other areas.

What time of year is this trip?

 

[Lazynorse]

The four days on White Rim sounds perfect in my experience. I can't speak with any experience on the other areas.

What time of year is this trip?

October.

 

[Z Adventures]

We did Shafer Trail and started White Rim on day 1 and got to Airport camp site early afternoon. 2nd day we drove to Candlestick camp site and again arrived early afternoon. 3rd day we drove out and and did Gemini Bridges by lunch time. Mostly picture taking and no hiking. Several stops along the trail to get out and walk to scenic overlooks. Make sure to book your camp sites the second they start taking reservations. When I made mine it looked like someone took nearly everyone and then released the ones they didn't want 15 minutes later. I was very bummed and then very excited to get the ones we wanted.

 

[socal66]

Lots of not too technical trails around the Moab / Canyonlands area mostly on BLM land with camping options. Chicken Corners and Onion Creek to name a couple. You can also consider the Swell and Capital Reef areas en route to Canyonlands as they have some great trails too. You can fill up 10 days quite easily with the options in the Canyonlands area.

 

[Lazynorse]

After watching a ton of videos, I’m hesitating taking my modestly lifted Ford Ranger through some of those Needles and Maze trails (Elephant Hill, to Dollhouse). As mentioned, I’m on 32” C load ATs, 3” lift front 1” lift back from Eibach Stage 1s and Icon leafs. I did all sorts without problem in the Owyhees before the suspension lift. Any thoughts on that?

 

[MOAK]

You’re fine, our family has gotten stock 4Runners over elephant hill and on the WRT. You should be fine in the maze, however, if you lack experience, then that is altogether a different matter. I’ve seen guys with overbuilt jeeps having a very difficult time over not so technical terrain. Buy this book, it’s old, but is very accurate and full of great tips and info Canyonlands National Park: Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails – Natural Resources Map & Bookstore

10 days won’t be enough, primarily because you don’t want to hurry. 3 nights on the WRT, space your campsites about 30 miles apart and you’ll be able to take your time on the trail & at camp. From the top end of the WRT it is at least a 5 hour drive just to get to the Ranger station at Hans Flat, that doesn’t include gassing up and getting supplies in Green River. So there’s a night camping somewhere before Hans Flat. Then figure a night on the way to the doll house an another night coming out. That’s 4 days in the Maze, then it’s at least an 8 hour drive down to the Needles. You’re already bumping 10 days. I’d pick 2 districts, enjoy yourself and come back again. If you lack experience, do the easy White Rim Trail, then go down to the needles and spend a night or two in the Devils Kitchen. If road conditions are good, ( check with locals ) you can drive out the bottom through Beef Basin , once that far south the roads up into the mountains are well maintained forest roads.

It took us years to get back to the maze after doing just that. Sadly, my brother-in-law’s slightly lifted Chevy Colorado was not capable enough for the maze and we had to turn around. He has since beefed up his rear suspension, and has a few years more experience so we’ll do it again someday. Elephant Hill is extraordinarily technical for a NP road. But as I said, we’ve gotten a stock 4Runner through there. Be able to carry extra gas. If you figure you need 5 extra, bring 10. Good luck and have fun!

 

[Kent R]

@Overland Expedition, do you have any tips for this member?

 

[Lazynorse]

You’re fine, our family has gotten stock 4Runners over elephant hill and on the WRT. You should be fine in the maze, however, if you lack experience, then that is altogether a different matter. I’ve seen guys with overbuilt jeeps having a very difficult time over not so technical terrain. Buy this book, it’s old, but is very accurate and full of great tips and info Canyonlands National Park: Favorite Jeep Roads & Hiking Trails – Natural Resources Map & Bookstore

10 days won’t be enough, primarily because you don’t want to hurry. 3 nights on the WRT, space your campsites about 30 miles apart and you’ll be able to take your time on the trail & at camp. From the top end of the WRT it is at least a 5 hour drive just to get to the Ranger station at Hans Flat, that doesn’t include gassing up and getting supplies in Green River. So there’s a night camping somewhere before Hans Flat. Then figure a night on the way to the doll house an another night coming out. That’s 4 days in the Maze, then it’s at least an 8 hour drive down to the Needles. You’re already bumping 10 days. I’d pick 2 districts, enjoy yourself and come back again. If you lack experience, do the easy White Rim Trail, then go down to the needles and spend a night or two in the Devils Kitchen. If road conditions are good, ( check with locals ) you can drive out the bottom through Beef Basin , once that far south the roads up into the mountains are well maintained forest roads.

It took us years to get back to the maze after doing just that. Sadly, my brother-in-law’s slightly lifted Chevy Colorado was not capable enough for the maze and we had to turn around. He has since beefed up his rear suspension, and has a few years more experience so we’ll do it again someday. Elephant Hill is extraordinarily technical for a NP road. But as I said, we’ve gotten a stock 4Runner through there. Be able to carry extra gas. If you figure you need 5 extra, bring 10. Good luck and have fun!

Most helpful, thank you! I'm leaning towards a Islands/Needles focus as you suggest to make most efficient use of 10 days and travel time. I'm considering camping outside or inside Needles (if lucky, the park campground) but stopping short of Elephant Hill, enjoy the myriad of hiking from the trailheads leading to that end of the road.

@MOAK Here's where I could really benefit from your knowledge of the area.. I really want to hike Joint Trail. I'm thinking about accessing it from Ruin Park Road > Butler Flat Road, from the south. I see I can get into the park and hopefully reserve permits for Bobby Joe or Horsehoof Campground, a short way south of the Joint Trail trailhead. Coming in and out this way skips SOB Hill and Elephant Hill. From the trail reports I've seen, I haven't seen mention of too technical obstacles coming this way from the south but info is more scarce from my research at least. 'Bobby's Hole' is mentioned and possibly on this route, and presented as a technical obstacle.

I'm an intermediate, I've picked my way through quite a bit in 4 lo. I'm still weighing how much time and risk I want on a lightly armored truck (front factory skid, no sliders, 3" lift), if I'd actually have more fun on more moderate paths to get to hiking trails.

 

[MOAK]

The joint trial is spectacular, and so is Horsehoof, which BTW is our favorite site in all of Canyonlands. Get the permits and head in from the south, it’s much less technical than over Elephant Hill or down through SOB hill. SOB hill is where we had to winch the stock 4Runner. One tiny mistake there and you’re in trouble. Either way, you’re about 6-7 hours from Moab to Horsehoof. Keep an eye on weather forecasts, and do check with locals about that southern route, in case it is washed out because of heavy rains. Be sure to get Nat Geo maps of Canyonlands and of the Manti LaSal national forest.

 

[Lazynorse]

Yowzers, just watched a bunch of vids on Bobby's Hole section of road to get into the southside of Needles. That is a steep, pockmarked boulder strewn mess. I'm sure I could ultimately get it done, but we're a lone truck, and that is deep and lonely out that way. Having second thoughts on arriving from the south. Maybe I play it safe and explore Needles from the main park road from the east. Still need to research outside-the-park areas to explore, Beef Basin is still on the table, I think.

 

[MOAK]

Yowzers, just watched a bunch of vids on Bobby's Hole section of road to get into the southside of Needles. That is a steep, pockmarked boulder strewn mess. I'm sure I could ultimately get it done, but we're a lone truck, and that is deep and lonely out that way. Having second thoughts on arriving from the south. Maybe I play it safe and explore Needles from the main park road from the east. Still need to research outside-the-park areas to explore, Beef Basin is still on the table, I think.

Ok then, if you have any doubts- then don’t. But don’t let an over dramatized couple of you tube vids discourage you. Yup, you’re alone out there. For us, that’s the whole idea. A good place to get your feet wet would be The Colorado Overlook road that begins at the north end of the Needles visitor center and well worth the time to explore.

 

[Lazynorse]

Ok then, if you have any doubts- then don’t. But don’t let an over dramatized couple of you tube vids discourage you. Yup, you’re alone out there. For us, that’s the whole idea. A good place to get your feet wet would be The Colorado Overlook road that begins at the north end of the Needles visitor center and well worth the time to explore.

Definitely appreciate your perspective and help. We purposely go alone too, for years in Subarus, and now in a Ranger. I'm hand wringing more than normal, I'm trying to compare what I'm seeing on YouTube to what I've done elsewhere. Probably the most technical being more far flung reaches of the Owyhees in Oregon, namely the riverside ranches, Three Forks, areas of perhaps similar obstacles, both composition (rock) and clearance. The true high clearance, 4-lo areas, not the smooth gravel to Leslie Gulch type of roads. I'm probably most concerned with breakover angle on unavoidable boulder obstacles. I'm lifted, but on 32s. No sliders. If the fun to probability of significant damage quotient gets too far out of whack, it becomes less of a fun vacation experience.

Honestly, I'm most interested in hanging out in that inner area for awesome day hikes. I know there's not one magic answer to my concern, I've gotten a lot of good beta here so far. Appreciate it.