ARB fridge install?
- Thread starter SCrunner
- Start date
Enthusiast III
Member III
@SCrunner where do you live in town? We can meet up and I can give you a rundown on options. I ran mine on a single AGM battery for a few years using the ARB wiring harness and a homemade slide. Worked great. I also kept a Microstart jumper battery in the rig all the time in case of a dead battery.
With that basic setup,
-fridge, mounted in back
-10-12awg wired direct to battery
-deep cycle/dual purpose AGM battery
you'd be good to go.
With that basic setup,
-fridge, mounted in back
-10-12awg wired direct to battery
-deep cycle/dual purpose AGM battery
you'd be good to go.
Question for those with fridges: Do you keep them hooked up all the time, or just on trips? I would think the battery would be a lot happier if it wasn't always hooked up.
Live Oak area, but you have all inspired me to do it myself. Gotta learn the rig, be the rig.
Enthusiast III
Too hot in AZ IMHO. I have friends that do it but they also have 100 watt solar panels on theirs roofs hard mounted.
Sent from my iPhone expect typos, grammatical errors, and any other invalid excuse.
Enthusiast III
On a side note, I called ARB about where to send the warranty. They said in the USA, don't worry about submitting it. Save your receipt with your docs. They just need proof of date of purchase. But even if you don't have your receipt they will still take care of any issues.
While I had the ARB Pro on the phone. I asked about the most common ARB fridge failure. Their rep (who is also the repair guy) told me not installing a direct dedicated power line to the fridge. A standard pre-installed 12v in your vehicle won't work. So save yourself that grief. Run a dedicated power line. 10 gauge wire and 15 AMP fuse (if you DIY). I bought their kit.
Also, he highly recommended setting your fridge temperature at 26 degrees (F). That temp is for the brains of the fridge. The internal temp will be 8 degrees or so warmer in the internal air of the fridge. I thought the 26 degrees was good info. He said your food won't freeze.
While at camp he recommended keeping the fridge plugged in and in the shade under your rig. It will run cooler outside the vehicle (I figured as much). A transit bag will assist in energy conservation and battery use also.
While I had the ARB Pro on the phone. I asked about the most common ARB fridge failure. Their rep (who is also the repair guy) told me not installing a direct dedicated power line to the fridge. A standard pre-installed 12v in your vehicle won't work. So save yourself that grief. Run a dedicated power line. 10 gauge wire and 15 AMP fuse (if you DIY). I bought their kit.
Also, he highly recommended setting your fridge temperature at 26 degrees (F). That temp is for the brains of the fridge. The internal temp will be 8 degrees or so warmer in the internal air of the fridge. I thought the 26 degrees was good info. He said your food won't freeze.
While at camp he recommended keeping the fridge plugged in and in the shade under your rig. It will run cooler outside the vehicle (I figured as much). A transit bag will assist in energy conservation and battery use also.
Would the battery be okay to run the fridge off of the outlets for just 5 or 6 days, and as a for sure one time thing, starting it often and when needed?
Wondering for if I dont get it done in time for this weekend
Sent from my SM-J320V using OB Talk mobile app
Wondering for if I dont get it done in time for this weekend
Sent from my SM-J320V using OB Talk mobile app
Starting your car for a bit does not properly charge a battery. I would run out and get a solar setup if possible before your trip. If you are talking 5-6 days camped in one spot no way. Your starter battery will not be happy after 12 hours max. It's all math my friend. Average amp hours required by your devices and available capacity of your battery. With that said AGM batteries etc as in non Lithium ion batteries do not like to be drained below 50-55%. Keep doing that and you kill them prematurely.
Solar is the way to go!!!! Slow steady charge will keep your battery happy. Heck I've seen a full moon give a slow charge.
Sent from my iPhone using OB Talk
Solar is the way to go!!!! Slow steady charge will keep your battery happy. Heck I've seen a full moon give a slow charge.
Sent from my iPhone using OB Talk
https://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycle-battery-faq.html
This is a good one but there are many others.
On a side note I save stuff like this in an app called Evernote. Lots and lots of notes and links which are easy to reference.
Sent from my iPhone expect typos, grammatical errors, and any other invalid excuse.
Enthusiast III
First, before doing any major wiring sit down and think thru you plans for the next few years. Do you plan to do serious upgrades. IE inverter, solar, fridge, lights, extra aux stuff, radios, etc. Is it better to run a heavier gauge wire into the rig now than a bunch of little ones and redo it and the headache associated? Now go thru and draw up a wiring diagram keeping in mind future plans. I will do a dual battery later but there is not a lot of room up front on the X for second batteries without a lot of extra work right now. So I just upgrade my original battery to an Odyssey 34R plus a Blue sea fuse block, a dozen relays on a built up panel, the ran wires to all I wish to do and so far I have came out on top.
As for the fridge, I only install it when I need it I built brackets into the existing rear seat mounts and if I fold down the rear seat the fridge fits like a glove there. I also advise getting rid of the stupid cig lighter adapter. Mine sucked ass and only 1 ground leg was internally connected which means bumps caused the fridge to shut down. I instead ran 10AWG from my fuse box feed with 2AWG wire to a set of Anderson power poles (best connections every FYI) then took the existing ARB harness and cut it and Anderson Powerpoled those incase I need the 12V adapter, I could use it, but in my rig the hardwired is the option utilized. I secure it with straps on the front and rear to snug it down on the folded seat. Since its on the passenger side, there is a 40% split which fits it perfect without wasted space. My RTT opens over the passenger side so the floor creates and awning of sorts for relaxing and easy access even when raining.
For backup/ JIC I carry a NOCO GB70. I have yet to use it on my rig but have on many others, so I know it works. I have kept my fridge in the truck 3 days without starting it and it still started, if I'm camping the truck will be driven throughout the day so I am not worried and still have a back up plan as needed. But like mentioned earlier I still want a 2nd battery. I also have a few foldable solor panel, a charge controler, and wiring hardwired if needed, but so far 100% of the time is has been overkill. But I keep it all as backup to my 100w panels to power my battery generators (plans on AR15.com) charge in case they are needed. (emergencies, etc)
Wiring Diagram
Battery upgrade
Fuse
Anderson power pole
Secured
In position
As for the fridge, I only install it when I need it I built brackets into the existing rear seat mounts and if I fold down the rear seat the fridge fits like a glove there. I also advise getting rid of the stupid cig lighter adapter. Mine sucked ass and only 1 ground leg was internally connected which means bumps caused the fridge to shut down. I instead ran 10AWG from my fuse box feed with 2AWG wire to a set of Anderson power poles (best connections every FYI) then took the existing ARB harness and cut it and Anderson Powerpoled those incase I need the 12V adapter, I could use it, but in my rig the hardwired is the option utilized. I secure it with straps on the front and rear to snug it down on the folded seat. Since its on the passenger side, there is a 40% split which fits it perfect without wasted space. My RTT opens over the passenger side so the floor creates and awning of sorts for relaxing and easy access even when raining.
For backup/ JIC I carry a NOCO GB70. I have yet to use it on my rig but have on many others, so I know it works. I have kept my fridge in the truck 3 days without starting it and it still started, if I'm camping the truck will be driven throughout the day so I am not worried and still have a back up plan as needed. But like mentioned earlier I still want a 2nd battery. I also have a few foldable solor panel, a charge controler, and wiring hardwired if needed, but so far 100% of the time is has been overkill. But I keep it all as backup to my 100w panels to power my battery generators (plans on AR15.com) charge in case they are needed. (emergencies, etc)
Wiring Diagram
Battery upgrade
Fuse
Anderson power pole
Secured
In position
Member III
I have my fridge in the truck all the time but don't turn it on unless I need it. I just used it last weekend. Emptied it on Monday and turned it back off. My truck doesn't get driven every day.
@SCrunner if you're in a time crunch to get this done, quick and dirty would be to order on Amazon:
-ARB #10900027 Fridge Wiring Harness
Tools: wire cutter, wire stripper, wire crimper, screwdriver, drill, wrenches,
Find your firewall pass through from below the dash to the engine bay. Run the wire from the battery at one end, thru the firewall, down along the inside floor to where you're putting the fridge.
The wire has a red wire and a black wire in the wire loom. At the fridge end, cut the loom lengthwise 6-12" long and separate the two wires. Strip 1/2" of the insulation off the wire ends then crimp on the female disconnects. These two disconnects connect to the ARB fridge plug.
On the other end of the wires you have the positive and negative ring terminals that bolt onto the positive and negative battery terminals. Connect the wires to the terminals.
Red wire connects to the + on the battery and + on the fridge plug. Black wire connects from the - on the battery to the - prong on the plug.
Now run the length of the wire and secure and protect it. You can secure it with tape or zip ties to keep it from moving or to keep it in a certain spot. The duplex wire already has a thermal rubber layer that protects it a bit but make sure the wire isn't gonna pinch or rub against any sharp metal or get caught in a moving object. If needed you can use foam, tape or wire loom to protect the wires.
Now put your fuse into the inline fuse holder. Once the fuse is in, you have Power to that ARB plug, it is live!
Get the fridge in position and secure it. Connect the fridge to the 12v plug. Some tips to do this on a single starting battery:
- make sure your truck battery is fully charged (12.8v)
- keep the fridge out of the sun as much as possible
- keep it as full as possible
- meat and beer at the bottom, veggies and dairy up top :)
- set it to HIGH voltage protection level
- set it no lower than 25F
- if the truck is running obviously fridge isn't affecting the battery
- when the engine is off you can keep the fridge on but I would check battery voltage every few hours.
- you can turn off and unplug the fridge at night and still keep decent temp til morning.
- even when the fridge is turned OFF, but plugged IN, it draws 30-40mA.
If you plan on more than 24 hrs between starting the truck, solar will be your best option and help out that poor starting battery from too much abuse. 60 watt panel minimum.
@SCrunner if you're in a time crunch to get this done, quick and dirty would be to order on Amazon:
-ARB #10900027 Fridge Wiring Harness
Tools: wire cutter, wire stripper, wire crimper, screwdriver, drill, wrenches,
Find your firewall pass through from below the dash to the engine bay. Run the wire from the battery at one end, thru the firewall, down along the inside floor to where you're putting the fridge.
The wire has a red wire and a black wire in the wire loom. At the fridge end, cut the loom lengthwise 6-12" long and separate the two wires. Strip 1/2" of the insulation off the wire ends then crimp on the female disconnects. These two disconnects connect to the ARB fridge plug.
On the other end of the wires you have the positive and negative ring terminals that bolt onto the positive and negative battery terminals. Connect the wires to the terminals.
Red wire connects to the + on the battery and + on the fridge plug. Black wire connects from the - on the battery to the - prong on the plug.
Now run the length of the wire and secure and protect it. You can secure it with tape or zip ties to keep it from moving or to keep it in a certain spot. The duplex wire already has a thermal rubber layer that protects it a bit but make sure the wire isn't gonna pinch or rub against any sharp metal or get caught in a moving object. If needed you can use foam, tape or wire loom to protect the wires.
Now put your fuse into the inline fuse holder. Once the fuse is in, you have Power to that ARB plug, it is live!
Get the fridge in position and secure it. Connect the fridge to the 12v plug. Some tips to do this on a single starting battery:
- make sure your truck battery is fully charged (12.8v)
- keep the fridge out of the sun as much as possible
- keep it as full as possible
- meat and beer at the bottom, veggies and dairy up top :)
- set it to HIGH voltage protection level
- set it no lower than 25F
- if the truck is running obviously fridge isn't affecting the battery
- when the engine is off you can keep the fridge on but I would check battery voltage every few hours.
- you can turn off and unplug the fridge at night and still keep decent temp til morning.
- even when the fridge is turned OFF, but plugged IN, it draws 30-40mA.
If you plan on more than 24 hrs between starting the truck, solar will be your best option and help out that poor starting battery from too much abuse. 60 watt panel minimum.
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Just remember that if you buy the ARB wiring harness you won't need 90% of the stuff above. It makes things really simple!
Off-Road Ranger I
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I keep my fridge out of the vehicle in the shop, plugged in to 110V all the time when it's not in the vehicle.
It's better if it has a load/mass in it to keep cool, so I keep can drinks in there.
Bonus! I can have cold drinks in my shop!
In my vehicle, I have a dedicated harness for the fridge, but it's overkill. I had it dedicated to a standard 12V cig plug for a while, heavy wiring, 15A fuse, etc., but decided to improve it and now use Andersen plugs on a dedicated 15A circuit.
The 12V socket in the rear of the OP's 4Runner is only on when the key is on, unless that hasn't been mentioned so far.
Some good info in this thread.
Member III
Yeah you're right! I'll edit the post. I was writing this late last night and looking at it now, just buying the full wiring harness is a lot easier and probably cheaper. I always forget how much little pieces go along with doing your own wiring.
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Off-Road Ranger I
I just picked up a fridge at NWOR and I've been trying to figure this out. What deep cycle battery do you recommend that won't break the bank?
