Advice Needed - The World of Cleaning up Wiring - Lights, Radios, and More

stark-in-the-wild

stark-in-the-wild

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Salmon Creek, WA, USA
First Name
Reed
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Starkey
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4848

Hi all,

I am running an old rig...and cheap. We are talking about a 1980 $900 F250. I have upgraded the alternator to produce more electricity than a modern car but was looking for some advice and photos of what others have done in regards to cleaning up the mess of wires that usually comes along with accessories. I have a lot of wires running to my engine bay and would love to see what others have done!

Thanks and happy exploring!
 
I use both heatshrink tubing and split loom and even electrical tape when needed. How much wiring does a 1980 ford have? My 1980 chevy c30 dually(now a buggy) had alternator, starter, headlights, and an ignition wire. Other than that what other wiring do you have? Is it fuel injected?
 
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If its a mess of wires start by removing everything not factory. then redo it to suit what you want, split loom and cable ties, solder the joints, do it once do it right.
there is nothing worse than electrical gremlins in the bush.

Also dont tie into the factory harness for power. run a seperate fuse box for aftermarket. That is how I have been setup for the last 6 years and I have not had a single issue to date
 
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WrongTurn said:
If its a mess of wires start by removing everything not factory. then redo it to suit what you want, split loom and cable ties, solder the joints, do it once do it right.
there is nothing worse than electrical gremlins in the bush.

Also dont tie into the factory harness for power. run a seperate fuse box for aftermarket. That is how I have been setup for the last 6 years and I have not had a single issue to date
Click to expand...

This! Totally agree! I would also throw in there to maybe consider adding a second battery with an isolator circuit between it and your cranking battery, assuming you're planning on running a lot of loads when the vehicle isn't running. If you're running your own wiring, I would actually suggest using a product like this (braided wire loom) since the split loom stuff tends to start cracking and falling apart after a year or two of being exposed to heat and the elements. Also, cloth tape helps to make it look really clean. When you pick out your heat shrink, look for some with glue on the inside. It helps create a water tight seal around the wire joint, which fights off corrosion.
 
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Boostpowered said:
I use both heatshrink tubing and split loom and even electrical tape when needed. How much wiring does a 1980 ford have? My 1980 chevy c30 dually(now a buggy) had alternator, starter, headlights, and an ignition wire. Other than that what other wiring do you have? Is it fuel injected?
Click to expand...
Nope you are right! When I got it everything was mostly stock so it didn't have much wiring. There were a few wires running to the battery from the previous owner that didn't really go anywhere so I yanked those. However I added fog lights and ditch lights which has resulted in a few wires to the battery. and with my future plans of a light bar and reverse lights and a better sound system I could see it getting crazy so I am trying to do it right the first time.
 
WrongTurn said:
If its a mess of wires start by removing everything not factory. then redo it to suit what you want, split loom and cable ties, solder the joints, do it once do it right.
there is nothing worse than electrical gremlins in the bush.

Also dont tie into the factory harness for power. run a seperate fuse box for aftermarket. That is how I have been setup for the last 6 years and I have not had a single issue to date
Click to expand...
PicNick said:
This! Totally agree! I would also throw in there to maybe consider adding a second battery with an isolator circuit between it and your cranking battery, assuming you're planning on running a lot of loads when the vehicle isn't running. If you're running your own wiring, I would actually suggest using a product like this (braided wire loom) since the split loom stuff tends to start cracking and falling apart after a year or two of being exposed to heat and the elements. Also, cloth tape helps to make it look really clean. When you pick out your heat shrink, look for some with glue on the inside. It helps create a water tight seal around the wire joint, which fights off corrosion.
Click to expand...

Thanks guys! this is some good advice. For the most part so far I've been trying to keep it separate (kinda) but may need to get in there and re-wire it all before I get some more accessories. I definitely need to start soldering too because I hate all these crappy plastic wire connectors.
 
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stark-in-the-wild said:
Thanks guys! this is some good advice. For the most part so far I've been trying to keep it separate (kinda) but may need to get in there and re-wire it all before I get some more accessories. I definitely need to start soldering too because I hate all these crappy plastic wire connectors.
Click to expand...

I used to use the plastic connectors a bit more than I'd like to admit. I stopped using them the day my buddy tripped over my wire harness in my boat while we were out fishing and disconnected a BUNCH of stuff. That's also the day that I learned to use more than one color wire when making a harness! Lol

That being said, I still keep a handful of wire taps and butt connectors in the toolkit for emergency trail repairs. Ya just never know!
 
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PicNick said:
I used to use the plastic connectors a bit more than I'd like to admit. I stopped using them the day my buddy tripped over my wire harness in my boat while we were out fishing and disconnected a BUNCH of stuff. That's also the day that I learned to use more than one color wire when making a harness! Lol

That being said, I still keep a handful of wire taps and butt connectors in the toolkit for emergency trail repairs. Ya just never know!
Click to expand...

hahahaha that story is hilarious! I shall also learn from that mistake. But yeah fully agreed that the connectors are great for a trail side repair
 
You might want to consider installing a fuse block. Then you would only have one heavy feed wire to the box getting rid of the battery clutter. You could mount the block on the firewall or inside the cab then you wouldn’t have to worry about the elements. You can also hide the wires easier.
 
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Flipper said:
You might want to consider installing a fuse block. Then you would only have one heavy feed wire to the box getting rid of the battery clutter. You could mount the block on the firewall or inside the cab then you wouldn’t have to worry about the elements. You can also hide the wires easier.
Click to expand...

Great idea! Thanks!
 
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There is a pretty good video that @Michael did on building your own relay box for accessories. Run it to your switches and you’re good to go. You can also buy something like an sPod but that’s more expensive.

 
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stark-in-the-wild said:
Nice! yeah i just got something from them to help with accessory wires too. but may look into a fuse box too. 12V outlets would be pretty nice to have too. you running two batteries?
Click to expand...

Yes, I have 2 n70zz batteries, 1 is starter, 1 is a deep cycle, I use an EBI digital controller to keep it seperated.
then I run high draw after market off the the starter battery, so I have only 3 items off the starter battery
1 - Compressor which is hidden under passenger seat
2 - Winch which has its own isolator
3 - Driving lights

The second battery is strictly used for just the breaker setup in the rear.
which runs my fridges and all my hard wired led lights which are all on switches to keep it clean and quick
plus I have a plug in that goes into my RTT with lights and dual usb chargers so it feels like a home inside.

Internally for me breaking my rules on wiring is 3 items only
1 - trailer brake controller which actually plugs into the factory harness
2 - drone charger is hooked to the center console 12v supply ( as it cant destroy anything else if it fails)
3 - UHF and dual usb charger is hooked the the dash 12v supply (same reason as above)

Keep it simple, keep it clean
 
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WrongTurn said:
Yes, I have 2 n70zz batteries, 1 is starter, 1 is a deep cycle, I use an EBI digital controller to keep it seperated.
then I run high draw after market off the the starter battery, so I have only 3 items off the starter battery
1 - Compressor which is hidden under passenger seat
2 - Winch which has its own isolator
3 - Driving lights

The second battery is strictly used for just the breaker setup in the rear.
which runs my fridges and all my hard wired led lights which are all on switches to keep it clean and quick
plus I have a plug in that goes into my RTT with lights and dual usb chargers so it feels like a home inside.

Internally for me breaking my rules on wiring is 3 items only
1 - trailer brake controller which actually plugs into the factory harness
2 - drone charger is hooked to the center console 12v supply ( as it cant destroy anything else if it fails)
3 - UHF and dual usb charger is hooked the the dash 12v supply (same reason as above)

Keep it simple, keep it clean
Click to expand...
That sounds like a pretty great set up! It'll take me a while to get my cheap truck to that point but goalz for sure
 
stark-in-the-wild said:
That sounds like a pretty great set up! It'll take me a while to get my cheap truck to that point but goalz for sure
Click to expand...

It completely depends on your end goal right, the setup cost me about 800usd I think with me doing all the work. but my wagon sees a lot of use.
Good luck on your choice though.
 
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There are plenty of DIY products like SPOD, but far less expensive. I run the Appolointec unit and it makes life easy and clean. They come in 4 and 6 switch and the units are universal enough you can run them on anything. This just happens to be mounted in a JKU.

 
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stark-in-the-wild said:
Thanks guys! this is some good advice. For the most part so far I've been trying to keep it separate (kinda) but may need to get in there and re-wire it all before I get some more accessories. I definitely need to start soldering too because I hate all these crappy plastic wire connectors.
Click to expand...
Agreed. Gas Benzomatic works great for soldering. On wires 8 gauge and up I use full size torch with Map gas (yellow can). They heat faster and more evenly.
 
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