2013 Chevy Express 3500 Cutaway Expo Build

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MStudt

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Over the weekend I was able to install the lvp flooring in the cargo area, and add a little aluminum j-trim & angle to help finish it off a little. The j-trim really added a clean look around the door opening, and the angle helped to close in the side some.





In addition to that I started to assemble a small storage area that'll be installed between the bed, and the door. This will house our Dometic toilet, and allow for a little bit of additional storage.




Lastly, I started prepping the wood for the ceiling. I went with blue pine or beetle kill pine. I love the way this wood looks, but it's going to take quite a bit of prep work before I can hang the pieces. The material is 5/8", 5-1/2" in width, and tongue & groove. I'm currently in the process of cleaning out all the beetle channels, and filling those with black hot melt wood filler. Once the filling is complete I'll have to finish sand everything before sealing the wood. I'll be using a shellac on the side facing the metal roof, and a poly on the visible face. Installation will consist of rivet nuts in the rood ribs, and stainless black oxide FHCS recessed into the wood.




 

RoarinRow

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Over the weekend I was able to install the lvp flooring in the cargo area, and add a little aluminum j-trim & angle to help finish it off a little. The j-trim really added a clean look around the door opening, and the angle helped to close in the side some.





In addition to that I started to assemble a small storage area that'll be installed between the bed, and the door. This will house our Dometic toilet, and allow for a little bit of additional storage.




Lastly, I started prepping the wood for the ceiling. I went with blue pine or beetle kill pine. I love the way this wood looks, but it's going to take quite a bit of prep work before I can hang the pieces. The material is 5/8", 5-1/2" in width, and tongue & groove. I'm currently in the process of cleaning out all the beetle channels, and filling those with black hot melt wood filler. Once the filling is complete I'll have to finish sand everything before sealing the wood. I'll be using a shellac on the side facing the metal roof, and a poly on the visible face. Installation will consist of rivet nuts in the rood ribs, and stainless black oxide FHCS recessed into the wood.




Nice flooring!
 
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MStudt

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Springfield, OR, USA
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Mike
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Studt
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I designed the kitchen cabinet earlier this week in a bit of a rush, but it turned out pretty good. The main back panel is 18mm ply with black laminate on the front and phenolic backer on the back. The dividers and cross braces are all 12mm raw ply. The top if going to be butcher block with a bottom mount sink, and a 2-burner propane cooktop. The narrow side on the right will be full of drawers, and the left will have a couple of doors to access the plumbing.

 
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MStudt

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Well, looks like I've forgotten to post for a bit. I don't have anything complete that I've started on, but forward progress is still progress.

The toilet hider and side storage area are just about complete. I have the floor pan drawing for the toilet but need to have it cut, bent, and powder coated. Once I have that back I can get it mounted with some Accuride locking draw slides. Last thing will be making a door to the cover the front, and figure out some kind of a wheel system to support the front when it's supporting weight.

The cooler storage is in the same boat. I have the floor pan drawn but need to have it cut, bend, and powder coated so I can install it. I also need to find a solution for the doors on this, but that shouldn't be very difficult.

The shelf and counter only need to be sanded, and sealed. I ended up using butcher block for both, and pick them up at my local Home Depot. The shelf will end up with some kind of a small lip on it, and I'm also going to cut a thin piece to act as a back splash.

Flooring is also installed.







 
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MStudt

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Here's an update since I've been slacking at it.

I have a lot going on right now, and I'll try my best to recap everything. The ceiling is just about finished, and I only need 2 more pieces of blue pine to go up. I'm going to hold off on that until I get all of my wiring complete, and make sure that I'm 100% leak-free on the roof. I installed a Step-Above fold-down step that makes getting in and out a breeze. This has adjustable legs for uneven ground and folds up into the door jam when stowed away. We were having issues with our paint of choice not wanting to be durable enough. So we design a sticker and cover the front bulkhead and rear doors with them. These are very durable and easy enough to remove should some get damaged. I also received my Fiamma F45S awning today, and was able to mount it to the roof rack mounts that I design with ease.







 
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MStudt

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I've been slacking about posting pictures of the progress, and trips. For the most part the van is complete, and I'm pretty happy with how everything turned out. I still need to build bumpers, and do a little more electrical work.






 
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MStudt

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A couple of weeks ago I started on the rear bumper and tire carrier. I'm reducing the overall depth of the rear step by 5" and shortening it on each side by roughly 12". First I removed the old flaking thread plate, spreader and got everything prepped for the new crossmember.



 

MStudt

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Next up was welding in a new 2" x 3" x .120 crossmember with a 2" receiver hitch. The receiver hitch will only be used for hauling our bike and never used for towing anything. So I wasn't overly concerned about the size of the material. I made some side plate reinforcements from 7 ga CRS that ran the length of the dog legs and wrapped around the rear onto the new crossmember. The top plate is a galvanized perforated stair thread that uses carriage bolts run though connector plates.




 
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MStudt

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Over the weekend I was able to start building the swingout tire carrier, and almost finished it. The carrier hinge is a 4xInnovations, and all the tubing for the swingout is 1-3/4" x .120 DOM. I also purchase the tire mounting plate from Ruff Stuff, and the a compression latch from SouthCo going on. Building this also gave me an excuse to use the JD2 vertical bender again.

I still need to design and build a mount for a AT Overland Equipment jerry can holder, and design a mount for a Zarges aluminum case. The aluminum box will serve as a small storage area, and a small work surface when opened.







 
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MStudt

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looks awesome. So jealous of you guys that can weld and have the tools to do so. I've not had the opportunity.
I started welding on a cheap Harbor Freight welder several years ago, and have upgrade a couple of times since. I'm fortunate enough to have access to a lot of manufacturing tools that had make a lot of the tools that I have now.

Mike
 
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AbundanceNaught

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I started welding on a cheap Harbor Freight welder several years ago, and have upgrade a couple of times since. I'm fortunate enough to have access to a lot of manufacturing tools that have make a lot of the tools that I have now.

Mike
unfortunately i'm living in an apartment, and no space to do anything of worth. I wish i had a garage with suitable space and tools. I would love to put some sort of gull wing panels on the rear windows on the van. one window is currently cracked. but no one makes anything like that, and the cost to have a 3rd party build it from scratch would be insane.
 

MStudt

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unfortunately i'm living in an apartment, and no space to do anything of worth. I wish i had a garage with suitable space and tools. I would love to put some sort of gull wing panels on the rear windows on the van. one window is currently cracked. but no one makes anything like that, and the cost to have a 3rd party build it from scratch would be insane.
For sure, and gullwings are tricky to build correctly.

Mike
 

AbundanceNaught

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For sure, and gullwings are tricky to build correctly.

Mike
I'd settle to just replace with windows with solid panel and mount some molle panels on the inside for storage. someday, depending on if i keep this van or go to something bigger. Currently on a short wheel base, worried about putting too much money/effort into it for it still to not suit our needs.
 

MStudt

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I'd settle to just replace with windows with solid panel and mount some molle panels on the inside for storage. someday, depending on if i keep this van or go to something bigger. Currently on a short wheel base, worried about putting too much money/effort into it for it still to not suit our needs.
Much easier and cheaper for sure. We almost went with a normal van, and had plan to add a pop-top of sorts to it but ultimately went with the box van. So much more room, and flat walls make for an easier build out. IMO, if you're on the fences about it, it might not be worth dumping in the money like you said.

Mike
 

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We have been talking about the future alot lately and have the same mindset. We have the patriot and a sylvansport GO camper system and it works. But moving forward in the next 3 to 4 years, we are going to upgrade to the Outback wilderness and a NO BO 16.6 camper. SO much more room, is an understatement. The other positives is indoor plumbing, heat and cooking. And true 4 season useage. Back on topic, you have awesome skills, and made that cube van into a work of art. I love it!
 
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MStudt

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Studt
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We have been talking about the future alot lately and have the same mindset. We have the patriot and a sylvansport GO camper system and it works. But moving forward in the next 3 to 4 years, we are going to upgrade to the Outback wilderness and a NO BO 16.6 camper. SO much more room, is an understatement. The other positives is indoor plumbing, heat and cooking. And true 4 season useage. Back on topic, you have awesome skills, and made that cube van into a work of art. I love it!
Thank you, and stay tuned the next couple of updates.

I also need to get pictures up of everything else that's been done. I don't have any of the electrical posted, and some of the smaller items that I've done.

Mike
 
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