2000 Land Rover Disco 2

davis31052 said:
I did mine last week and as I was putting it back together, I looked down thru the valley of the block and saw that the #4 can bearing had walked out.
sooooo, I proceeded to dissemble the remainder of the engine to install new cam bearings only to find upon removal that the cam had a wiped lobe, and all the other cam bearings were toast.
Well, as of an hour ago, the engine is on a stand with further disassembly of the bottom end for crank and rod bearings. I can't say that I didn't expect all of this to be wrong with the engine.

Merry Christmas to me!:rage::rage::disrelieved::disrelieved:
Click to expand...

That plain sucks.
 
davis31052 said:
I did mine last week and as I was putting it back together, I looked down thru the valley of the block and saw that the #4 can bearing had walked out.
sooooo, I proceeded to dissemble the remainder of the engine to install new cam bearings only to find upon removal that the cam had a wiped lobe, and all the other cam bearings were toast.
Well, as of an hour ago, the engine is on a stand with further disassembly of the bottom end for crank and rod bearings. I can't say that I didn't expect all of this to be wrong with the engine.

Merry Christmas to me!:rage::rage::disrelieved::disrelieved:
Click to expand...

[emoji15] gosh that blows! Man I hope mine doesn’t need all that!


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I recommend you dig around on the LR forums and download a copy of the RAVE manual. Using it, test the oil pressure with a manual gauge at idle, after it gets up to operating temperature.

Pressure at idle - minimum
0.7 bar (10 lbf.in2)
Pressure at 2000 rev/min (hot)
3.4 bar (50 lbf.in2)
Relief valve opening pressure
3.4 bar (50 lbf.in2)
Low oil pressure switch opening pressure
0.24-0.41 bar (3.5-6.0 lbf.in2)

If you aren’t in these specs, you should start figuring out why. Honestly, I have no idea how my engine was still holding together.
LandRoverforums.com has a wealth of information. Discoweb.org does too, but be forewarned, those guys aren’t patient with new members not using the search function before posting questions.
 
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davis31052 said:
I recommend you dig around on the LR forums and download a copy of the RAVE manual. Using it, test the oil pressure with a manual gauge at idle, after it gets up to operating temperature.

Pressure at idle - minimum
0.7 bar (10 lbf.in2)
Pressure at 2000 rev/min (hot)
3.4 bar (50 lbf.in2)
Relief valve opening pressure
3.4 bar (50 lbf.in2)
Low oil pressure switch opening pressure
0.24-0.41 bar (3.5-6.0 lbf.in2)

If you aren’t in these specs, you should start figuring out why. Honestly, I have no idea how my engine was still holding together.
LandRoverforums.com has a wealth of information. Discoweb.org does too, but be forewarned, those guys aren’t patient with new members not using the search function before posting questions.
Click to expand...

Thank you! I’ll do that this week!
 
Here's a quick list of things all new D2 owners should be aware of and have checked.

Front driveshaft - the stock unit does not have zerks to lube the u-joints. The slip shaft is there, but nothing on the caps or cross of the uj itself. This needs to be replaced with a serviceable shaft ASAP. You can get one from Tom Wood, or search for 1300 series u-joints. The TW options bumps the size up to 1310's. If the d/s isn't serviced, or makes a vibration at speed, there's a good chance it will seize, break, and knock a hole into your transmission.

3 Amigos/ABS modulator - Sometimes the ABS line connection in the wheel well goes bad. Sometimes it's the modulator itself. It can also be caused by dusty pads and squealing of the brakes. In either case, the 3 Amigos (ABS, HDC, and TC lights on the dashboard) is something all D2 owners get to experience at some point. There is a cheaper rebuild kit that sometimes works.

Rotoflex coupler - This connects the rear driveshaft to the flange of the diff. Time, and or a lift can cause this to crack and eventually fail. Inspect your current one. If it's not too bad, get a new one and keep the old as a spare. Better yet, get the 4 bolt flange off a D1 and you can use drivehafts from Tom Wood.

CDL - Here's the breakdown of the CDL guts in the transfer case by year.
1999 - mid year 2001, CDL is in the t-case but not connected to the lever. You need to crawl under with a 10mm wrench and do a 1/4 turn to lock it. Reverse to unlock, but beware of the hot exhaust.
Later 2001 - 2003, No CDL at all in the t-case. You only have Traction Control
2004, CDL in the t-case with a cable connected to the lever.

I installed the '04 shifter into my 2001, which has the CDL guts in it. To check if you have it, feel above the front output flange. It might be easier to take a picture to do this. You can also install the linkage from any D1, but there is a bend you need to make for it to clear. Most of them are never used and need a bit of penetrating oil to free the linkage.
 
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To add....

The front drive shaft can be rebuilt with serviceable u-joints.

Precision pt.# 344 u-joint (x 3)
and Precision pt. # 617 centering ball ( 1 )

While the Tom Woods shaft is nice (have one), if you have any drive-line vibration. The TW will enhance it because of size and weight (she is bigger and heaver).
 
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Well I got the throttle body heater plate all installed and the truck is running like a champ. I went to the junk yard today to see if I could find the CDL linkage from a 2004 disco to put in mine and Though i didn’t find one at the yard I went to today. I did however find a front bumper!!! 60 bucks! I was so shocked to find one in near perfect condition! I’ll install it and upload pictures.
0ff103a1740c9cf8958161c19b23a477.jpg



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