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That's cool! I've been to both places for like a day... small world. Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

I rebuilt my np205. Next is my 203 and a then the 4l80e. Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

LOL! I was wondering for a sec. [emoji2] Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

That first scratch is always the toughest! [emoji12] Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

Idk if this helps at all but I found this box on Craigslist for 50$ and built a simple rack out of some leftovers from another project to hold it up. Total cost was less than $60.00! It's not great for dropping the tailgate but I can still open the hatch to access the back and I can still tow a...

Thank you! [emoji106] [emoji2] Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

Agreed. And thanks. Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

I thought it was spelled Spanish Fark. [emoji6] Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

Welcome! I'm in Riverside. I'll keep an eye out for ya! [emoji12] Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

I milled my np205 to receive the new 32 spline input shaft bearing in preparation to build my 203/205 doubler. Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

I'll be fabing up the shift linkage too. I'm gonna run 3 shifters for maximum capabilities. It will enable me to seperate the front wheels from the rear if I ever need too. Stick 1. Rear wheels - high/neutral/low (HNL) Stick 2. Front wheels - HNL Stick 3. Doubler - HNL Add the full manual...

The 205 was behind an old Muncie 465 trans so it had the small 10 spline input shaft which wouldn't work for my purposes. I'm going to run the 205 t-case behind the 203 range box all behind a 4L80e transmission so I need the heavy duty 32 spline shafts all the way through. The 10 spline shaft...

So I'm accumulating parts for my doubler. I'm currently running a 205 t-case and since I want to replace the entire driveline and move the engine forward I've decided to lift the body off the frame and work from the top down instead of the bottom up. Building a new driveline requires some custom...

Thanks. That thing came out pretty cool. I have enough parts left over to make another one... I might do that and offer to ob members. Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

Nice! Keep it up! Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

I'm not in a scout but I am in an old rig. A 1970 k20 Chevy Suburban that I have put tons of love and money into. It's great to see another old ride here on the forum! I think we're cut from the same cloth... I do all my own work from the carb to the hand made bumpers and everything in between...

A big 4 upgrade might help too. Battery positive Battery negative Engine to frame ground Alternator charge wire Stereo shops do this all the time for big amps and speakers but I've heard of them doing it as more of a maintenance upgrade too. I'd consider checking all the grounds first...

So to sum up a little bit... if you're gonna install lockers go pony up the extra dough and get a selectable (when not in use you have the equivalent of an open diff) it's cheap insurance as compared to totalling your rig or worst case scenario loosing life or limb. Unless ya like to live on...

I hear ya. Some if not most times it's easier and just as cost effective to buy and bolt on... fabing stuff is awesome but why reinvent the wheel. Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban

Do you have any fabrication skills or fab tools? Rustyburbin from SoCal 5 kids, wife, dog and a 1970 K20 Suburban