I may pick up a Yeti 400 in addition to my 1000. I don't usually need the reserve power of the 1000W. The smaller size and lower weight would be nice in the Jeep.
Does any one have a zero generator and solar panel unit
- Thread starter Cpol
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I may pick up a Yeti 400 in addition to my 1000. I don't usually need the reserve power of the 1000W. The smaller size and lower weight would be nice in the Jeep.
We found on our trip we never really used more that what the solar power would supply us. The 400W was perfect but we don't have a fridge yet. Once we move the setup to our VW Bus it will be another story. But I think the reserve capacity of the 400W would still sustain everything overnight. We are just looking for options on mounting these to our rack. I would like something that can be adjustable and still mount on the roofrack. Only issue is we have no space to use on the rack besides the overhang on the Thule bars.
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Bought a Goal Zero 1000, Double solar panels, CSI Black Ice Ref./Freezer and 2200 Inverter generator for extended off-grid camping. Now I'm too broke to go anywhere. Actually, I have tried it a few times and everything seems too meet all expectations. Freezer pulls 1.5-2.5 amps. I was using the freezer to keep ice packs frozen for a rotomolded cooler/refrigeration. GZ would run 30 hrs. approx. cranked down to near zero degrees and no solar or generator assist. That was shaded 75-80 degree weather. Surely one could get another day at like 36 degrees or so. Planning extended trip in October so I will put it to a real test then. Looking forward to some cooler weather! Running an A/C is a bit too much but I do have some nice LI fans that work well.
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I know what you mean about being too broke to go anywhere lol. But you’ve got good gadgets.
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So, I did nine days in the Ozarks and it was great. The freezer kept the ice packs frozen and the rotomolded knockoff yeti did a good job keeping things chilled by rotating the ice packs once a day. Every couple of days I would hookup to some AC power overnight and charge the LI battery and run the freezer. Otherwise, running off the alternator while traveling worked good too. I think I tool about 40 lbs more food than I needed! I need to pack less stuff. But, rather have it and not need it I guess.
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Goal Zero Yeti 1400 Lithium, ARB Elements, Boulder 100 Suitcase Panel. Pretty expensive, but happy with the setup and easy to move between rigs if you need. Solid packaging on all 3. The ARB is particularly efficient, though I understand some of the newest fridges out there are starting to edge it out.
Between the ARB and GZ, initially quirky interaction. Connected them using the 12V. The ARB fridge has a voltage sensitive cutoff (seemingly calibrated to a lead acid bat as though you were going to connect directly to a drive battery on your truck; prevents you killing your drive bat). In short, below a certain voltage, the fridge won’t kick on. Problem is that the lithiums reach a low enough voltage (to trigger ARB’s factory default), while still at a fairly high state of charge. (70% if memory serves).
Change the settings on the fridge to low sensitivity and it plays nice down to roughly (40% roughly). That’s been fine for me in practice.
An adapter from Goal Zero apparently solves that issue entirely, but it annoyed the tail off of me to need a $40 adaptor to run a 12V DC fridge from what’s advertised as a 12V DC supply port on the GZ.
In terms of charging, only need maybe 2-3 hours of solid sun to keep the system topped off (when using that fridge without other draw).
Hope that might help anybody interested in the setup.
Between the ARB and GZ, initially quirky interaction. Connected them using the 12V. The ARB fridge has a voltage sensitive cutoff (seemingly calibrated to a lead acid bat as though you were going to connect directly to a drive battery on your truck; prevents you killing your drive bat). In short, below a certain voltage, the fridge won’t kick on. Problem is that the lithiums reach a low enough voltage (to trigger ARB’s factory default), while still at a fairly high state of charge. (70% if memory serves).
Change the settings on the fridge to low sensitivity and it plays nice down to roughly (40% roughly). That’s been fine for me in practice.
An adapter from Goal Zero apparently solves that issue entirely, but it annoyed the tail off of me to need a $40 adaptor to run a 12V DC fridge from what’s advertised as a 12V DC supply port on the GZ.
In terms of charging, only need maybe 2-3 hours of solid sun to keep the system topped off (when using that fridge without other draw).
Hope that might help anybody interested in the setup.
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I'm looking into a Jackery or GZ setup. Maybe the jackery 500 or GZ400. Only thing I have is an ARB 50 to plug into it. From your experience, do you think this will be sufficient for a couple day basecamp? I'm not sure about the solar panels yet. Of course, while on the road the power station can be charged.
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So I decided on going go dyi system using a red arc BCDC 1250 d and a thermoware monitoring unit instead. The odyssey group 31 in series. 
With an additional unigi battery just just in case.
Just case the solar is not getting any sun, the crank battery also odyssey group 31 and stock alternator can supplement while Iam driving..
With an additional unigi battery just just in case.
Just case the solar is not getting any sun, the crank battery also odyssey group 31 and stock alternator can supplement while Iam driving..
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There are others besides Yeti at better prices. The Flexopower 444 is using a 40ah lithium battery priced below $400 and it includes a built in MPPT charge controller so you can just plug a solar panel directly into and charge it. Jackery also makes a well rated one too and they do sell a smaller one. The Flexopower 444 that I have will run my fridge for over 24 hours on a full charge, haven't tested it yet using a solar panel to charge it at the same time.
